I've been looking at that ebay seller's stuff also. It's significantly cheaper than buying by-the-foot lengths from Xpel. I suppose you dont have other film to compare, but in terms of verifying you're actually getting the xpel film advertised, nate, were you able to confirm this somehow? Perhaps it has some identifying mark on the backing, etc?
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Time to DIY PPF!!
- Thread starter nate704
- Start date
akidesir
Member
Jumped on the bandwagon and did the full front PPF today as well. Went with the full STEK front kit from Northtints.
Hood, bumper, fenders, partial A pillar. I didn’t do the mirrors yet, still trying to figure out where the 4 pieces of PPF align.
It also included door handle PPF, not sure it’s necessary but figured why not, it’s easy enough to put on.
Hood, bumper, fenders, partial A pillar. I didn’t do the mirrors yet, still trying to figure out where the 4 pieces of PPF align.
It also included door handle PPF, not sure it’s necessary but figured why not, it’s easy enough to put on.
Hi bro. Do you mine if share withe the templates to ppf model y. I got ur door panel template and cut it. Now i need the rest of all. If you have it. Please share mate. Appreciate
Will PPF actually protect from even deliberate keying and scratching? Is it that tough?
Congrats on a job done superbly Nate. You've given me confidence (maybe false confidence haha!) that I can handle it too.
The ebay seller's listing is a bit confusing though as his current listings mention 3M, Xpel, and Suntek. He also does not have very many reviews. But happy that you confirmed that it was the genuine Xpel Ultimate Plus thick 10mm film. That PPF kit on the xpel website is $1100.
The ebay seller's listing is a bit confusing though as his current listings mention 3M, Xpel, and Suntek. He also does not have very many reviews. But happy that you confirmed that it was the genuine Xpel Ultimate Plus thick 10mm film. That PPF kit on the xpel website is $1100.
So I decided to take the plunge thanks to all the support from Tesla owners here. Ordered the Xpel Ultimate Plus full car kit for $1900 Canadian dollars ($1386.42 USD). Direct from Vito films (thanks Nate704 for the recommendation). Their website is kitcutz.com and it will save you more than going through ebay since the seller avoids ebay's exorbitant fees. The prices Alex gave me were:
Full front: $650 (Canadian dollars)
All doors: $ 525
Full car kit $1800
Plus $100 shipping
I think it's a significant discount over what anyone else will charge for the materials. The Xpel site would probably have charged $2500 total. And the cheapest installed quote I received was $5500 from Xtreme Edge Auto Detailing (referral from Everydaychris) in Garden Grove, CA. They were really professional and had great communication and I definitely would have gone with them except that spending $5500 was a complete non starter.
It should take about a week to cut and maybe another week to deliver. I got all the materials I need except the squeegee.
Wish me luck. I'll keep everyone updated on progress.
Full front: $650 (Canadian dollars)
All doors: $ 525
Full car kit $1800
Plus $100 shipping
I think it's a significant discount over what anyone else will charge for the materials. The Xpel site would probably have charged $2500 total. And the cheapest installed quote I received was $5500 from Xtreme Edge Auto Detailing (referral from Everydaychris) in Garden Grove, CA. They were really professional and had great communication and I definitely would have gone with them except that spending $5500 was a complete non starter.
It should take about a week to cut and maybe another week to deliver. I got all the materials I need except the squeegee.
Wish me luck. I'll keep everyone updated on progress.
Thinking of doing the same. Best quote I received locally in South Florida was $5800 lol
Question: Do I only need to use tack solution on the corners and edges of the PPF? In all the videos, it seems like the pro only applies tack solution when he needs to nail down the first corner to keep it from slipping and sliding around. The rest seems to adhere to the car magically once the soap solution is squeegeed out.
It depends on your tack solution and slip solution. usually you spray tack solution to the alignment points, such as sensor holes, corners, edges, and any other lines that needs to be aligned before you squeegee it out the rest of the area.
akidesir
Member
No, you're not really shrink the edges. More using the heat gun to ensure a tight bond on the edges, so the PPF doesn't lift on the edges, and water go into it/dirt get into it.
These &$@%#**?% fingers!!!!!!!
I just spent 2 hrs on the right headlight, thinking it was the simplest piece to practice on. Minimal curves, small piece. These damn fingers is like whack a mole!!! As soon as you push it down, it pops up elsewhere. I’ve been using a heat gun to shrink the film but at the end, I am still stuck with 5 mini fingers. I also have fingerprints all underneath the film, AND air bubbles, AND creases that are permanent! All on the headlight!
I am IN WAY OVER MY HEAD! HELP!!!
I just spent 2 hrs on the right headlight, thinking it was the simplest piece to practice on. Minimal curves, small piece. These damn fingers is like whack a mole!!! As soon as you push it down, it pops up elsewhere. I’ve been using a heat gun to shrink the film but at the end, I am still stuck with 5 mini fingers. I also have fingerprints all underneath the film, AND air bubbles, AND creases that are permanent! All on the headlight!
I am IN WAY OVER MY HEAD! HELP!!!
The hood is the easiest piece to start with, it’s a large, horizontal flat surface.
Sounds like you didn’t use enough slip solution on the headlight. You need to spray the surface with slip solution and the PPF as well. When you place the PPF on the surface, you should be able to slide the whole piece around like it’s floating. If you can’t, you need more slip solution.
With the headlight, get it positioned and apply tack solution to one corner and squeegee to get it tacked down. Then just work the rest of the PPF adding additional slip solution generously as needed to prevent the PPF from drying. If you get fingers add slip solution or tack solution and squeegee them out diagonally. You can also go back and squeegee out fingers afterwards as well. This is more helpful on big pieces like the bumper.
You really shouldn’t use a heat gun for PPF. It’s not like applying dry vinyl where you’re heating it up to stretch and fit. If the PPF was cut correctly it should fit with gentle even stretching. You should be using a lot of slip solution continuously with a mix of tack solution to tack as you fit the pieces. If anything use a steamer, not a heat gun.
Sounds like you didn’t use enough slip solution on the headlight. You need to spray the surface with slip solution and the PPF as well. When you place the PPF on the surface, you should be able to slide the whole piece around like it’s floating. If you can’t, you need more slip solution.
With the headlight, get it positioned and apply tack solution to one corner and squeegee to get it tacked down. Then just work the rest of the PPF adding additional slip solution generously as needed to prevent the PPF from drying. If you get fingers add slip solution or tack solution and squeegee them out diagonally. You can also go back and squeegee out fingers afterwards as well. This is more helpful on big pieces like the bumper.
You really shouldn’t use a heat gun for PPF. It’s not like applying dry vinyl where you’re heating it up to stretch and fit. If the PPF was cut correctly it should fit with gentle even stretching. You should be using a lot of slip solution continuously with a mix of tack solution to tack as you fit the pieces. If anything use a steamer, not a heat gun.
Thanks. I saw a video of a guy using a heat gun to shrink the space between fingers. The problem is that if you shrink too much, it creases the PPF and then you’re done and ruined that piece of PPF.
Also, I did use a ton of slip solution and the piece was free moving at the beginning. Oddly enough, the beginning where I started came out really well. It was the top and the end where it totally got marred and scratched and folded.
I am afraid to work on a large piece cause if I ruin it (which is almost certain), the replacement cost would be a hundred or more. At least the headlight, I figure I could get a new sheet for $50 or less.
I couldn’t understand it - I watched a guy on YouTube do a Tesla 3 headlight exactly as you say and there wasn’t a single finger. Meanwhile mine has fingers that refused to go down. I must have squeegeed and sprayed 200x.
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