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Tire rotation
- Thread starter Boatguy
- Start date
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- Tags
- Driving Dynamics Model S
brucet999
Active Member
Electric700
Active Member
It's all a scam anyway. Pro tip: your wheels rotate every time you drive.
byan1232
Member
I went to the SC to see what was wrong with my seat (ticking sound) and ask if they could rotate my tires. I haven't done the annual inspection yet.
dabbler
Member
Ranger showed my a place at the base of the rear lower control arm at the connection point to the axle assembly. Use a rubber pad on the stand.
GlmnAlyAirCar
Active Member
There are lots of solutions elsewhere on this forum, none of them completely satisfactory.
For anyone interested the problem is that there are four, and exactly four, jack points on the car. You can't jack up one corner and substitute a jack stand in its place. As a result, you can't really safely get two wheels off the ground simultaneously using this standard technique.
Knightowl
Whovian
mhonig
Help - cards disappeared on Model S Console
siucity
Button Pusher
Just checked my tires after another 10K miles. All 4 are wearing evenly (inside/middle/outside). Will leave them alone.
I trust you have a D. Two-wheel-drive Teslas go thru rear tires fairly quickly.
SomeJoe7777
Marginally-Known Member
I like to rotate often, even if tires are wearing evenly. It reduces tire noise later in the life of the set of tires if they get rotated frequently. I typically rotate every 2500 miles in a rearward-cross pattern.
Note that if you have staggered tires, you cannot use the rearward-cross pattern (or X-pattern, or forward-cross, or front-rear swap). You can only use the same-axle swap pattern.
Note that if you have staggered tires, you cannot use the rearward-cross pattern (or X-pattern, or forward-cross, or front-rear swap). You can only use the same-axle swap pattern.
Xenius
Active Member
So I was lax in my attention to tires. My (delivered Aug '16) S just had it's first "annual" service at 11,135 miles. Tire status as follows (they 'rotated as necessary' according to invoice):
Tire - Outer - Center - Inner
LF: 8/32 - 8/32 - 8/32
RF: 7/32 - 7/32 - 7/32
LR: 8/32 - 8/32 - 8/32
RR 8/32 - 8/32 - 8/32
And just for some ancillary data, brake pads! (mm)
LF, RF, LR, RR
8, 8, 8, 8 -> Parking Brake : 5
Tire - Outer - Center - Inner
LF: 8/32 - 8/32 - 8/32
RF: 7/32 - 7/32 - 7/32
LR: 8/32 - 8/32 - 8/32
RR 8/32 - 8/32 - 8/32
And just for some ancillary data, brake pads! (mm)
LF, RF, LR, RR
8, 8, 8, 8 -> Parking Brake : 5
Technically, Tesla recommends rotation every 6,250 miles so half way in between a 1 year/12,500 service. To be honest, rotating tires on schedule can only do good. It helps prevent problems that could occur later even if tire wear is the same or similar. Basically you don't hurt anything rotating tires and it could help prevent or stop problems that have or could occur. So for something that is free (or extremely cheap in the long run) its 100% worth it.
Only reason I've ever heard for not using anti cease grease on wheel studs is if an impact wrench is used to tighten the nuts, you increase the chance that you could over torque the nuts.
Rational humans hand tighten using a torque wrench.
In Northern states, you pretty much need to use something on the studs if they use snow melt chemicals in the road.
SomeJoe7777
Marginally-Known Member
Never, ever grease or lubricate the wheel studs, threads, lug nuts, or seating faces of the lug nuts or wheels. This reduces friction significantly when tightening the lug nut down, and you will over-torque the nuts regardless of what method you're using to tighten them.
The actual thing you're trying to do when tightening lug nuts is to place the stud under a particular degree of stress and strain. Stress is related to the force applied by the lug nut to the stud, and the strain is the (very) small change in the length of the stud when it's under stress. You want the studs to hold the wheels onto the car tight enough to prevent them from coming off or wobbling yet not so tight as to risk breaking the studs. This condition can be realized only at a particular value of stress and strain.
You can't easily directly measure the stress or strain on the stud. So what the manufacturer does instead is publish a torque value for the lug nut. When the lug nuts are tightened to this torque value with dry threads and dry seats, then the stress and strain on the stud will be right where it's supposed to be.
However, if you lubricate, you reduce friction. The manufacturer's published torque value will now over-stress the studs and risk breaking them.
