Torn Between Dual Motor LR and Performance [resolved]

[aspec818]

Speaking from first hand experience, if you already want a Performance now, you will always have doubts later on wish you got the P instead. You’ll end up spending more money down the line by selling and re-buying. And since you live in an area that’s 20-30 deg, you will likely swap out the wheel and tires anyways so that really isn’t an issue. Also, the P also doesn’t carry a noticeably harsher ride/suspension regardless. The LR and P felt exactly the same to me (19’s to 20’s)

 

[Phlier]

Now.....If they would just call get it to me!!!!!

Congrats, man, I'm sure you'll be thrilled with the car.

 

[MdlY55]

Congrats on your choice!
I was in the same dilemma LR M3 AWD vs M3P after my order switch to a M3 vs MY.

Still waiting for my 2021 M3P to arrive

 

[toddkageals]

Congrats on your choice!
I was in the same dilemma LR M3 AWD vs M3P after my order switch to a M3 vs MY.

Still waiting for my 2021 M3P to arrive

What's your delivery time frame? Mine is March 03-31

 

[Phlier]

What's your delivery time frame? Mine is March 03-31

Traditionally, Tesla manufactures cars for over seas delivery during the first half of each quarter. They then shift gears and produce cars for domestic deliveries, with east coast deliveries being produced first.

Just a couple of quick suggestions...

If their delivery procedures are the same as when I got my car, they will try to get you to sign the paperwork before letting you see your car. They can be pretty pushy about this, too.

When I asked to see the car first, they actually told me, “sorry, but that isn’t our procedure. We won’t allow you access to the car until the papers are signed.” I usually have a pretty high tolerance for BS, but this triggered me. As politely as I could (through clenched teeth), I reminded them that I was the customer here, and that I wouldn’t be handing them a check for sixty two thousand dollars and would not be signing anything until I had the opportunity to inspect and accept the car. I also made it quite clear that the entire process would be shared on social media to the greatest extent possible.

That kinda changed things around. From that point on, everything went according to my desires, as it should have been from the start.

TL;DR: don’t let them push you around and don’t accept a car that doesn’t pass muster with you.

 

[Devils son]

I would love to hear more details on the differences as I haven't been able to find much information? Is it purely software based?

The rear motor is different (since 2019). But it is also software of course.

I looked at the difference between P and LR boost in terms of power. For 2021 at higher speeds (100 mph) the difference is roughly 45 hp. This used to be around 20 hp.

Around that speed the boost and LR have the same power.

At 50 mph the difference is roughly 60 hp difference between LR and LR boost and 100 hp between LR boost and P.

 

[toddkageals]

Traditionally, Tesla manufactures cars for over seas delivery during the first half of each quarter. They then shift gears and produce cars for domestic deliveries, with east coast deliveries being produced first.

Just a couple of quick suggestions...

If their delivery procedures are the same as when I got my car, they will try to get you to sign the paperwork before letting you see your car. They can be pretty pushy about this, too.

When I asked to see the car first, they actually told me, “sorry, but that isn’t our procedure. We won’t allow you access to the car until the papers are signed.” I usually have a pretty high tolerance for BS, but this triggered me. As politely as I could (through clenched teeth), I reminded them that I was the customer here, and that I wouldn’t be handing them a check for sixty two thousand dollars and would not be signing anything until I had the opportunity to inspect and accept the car. I also made it quite clear that the entire process would be shared on social media to the greatest extent possible.

That kinda changed things around. From that point on, everything went according to my desires, as it should have been from the start.

TL;DR: don’t let them push you around and don’t accept a car that doesn’t pass muster with you.

Did they let you drive it first, or just do a visual inspection? Good advice. I appreciate it. Best to be prepared to address that kind of thing BEFORE it's sprung on you at the last minute.

 

[toddkageals]

When I totaled my wife's TM3 AWD (I hit a curb and sufficiently gooned the suspension for my insurance to total it), we were torn between replacing it or upgrading to the Performance. In the end, we got another AWD with aero wheels and:

Bought a new set of 19" aftermarket rims and high performance 245/40 R19 Michelin Pilot Sport A/S 3 Plus tires ($2,000)

• Bought the speed boost ($2,000)
• Installed a carbon fiber spoiler ($300)
• Installed wheel spacers, 15mm front and 20mm aft ($250)
• Installed red brake covers, ($250)

So, for under $5,000 more than the AWD, we get:

• similar summer compound yet wider tires than the Performance's; they both look better and also protect the
• stronger, lighter, (subjectively) better looking aftermarket 19" rims, which are better suited for our pothole-rich area of town
• a 1" higher suspension, again, better for our steep driveway departure, many speed bumps on our street, and all the potholes
• smaller brakes, for better efficiency (we'll never track this car)
• a spare/aero set of wheels and tires, for long distance road trips or as full size spares
• a car that is visually very close to a Performance (true aficionados would notice the brake covers, the glossy carbon fiber spoiler, and the lack of underline in the Dual Motor badge; the wheels are not a good indicator, as many people replace wheels)
• a car that is imperceptibly (to me) slower than the Performance

This follows my thinking almost exactly. I strongly considered this course, for all of the same reasons you did! Logically, this makes perfect sense for me, and I feel almost certain that I would have been happy with that decision. However, I'm getting the P !

 

[F14Scott]

This follows my thinking almost exactly. I strongly considered this course, for all of the same reasons you did! Logically, this makes perfect sense for me, and I feel almost certain that I would have been happy with that decision. However, I'm getting the P !

It was the taller suspension and hardier wheels, for us.

We just knew that the 20" P wheels, with their little, exposed edges and the smaller, drawn-in sidewalls would get destroyed on our streets, and my wife HATES when the nose scrapes coming out of the driveway, even on the AWD, so the P would have killed her, being an inch lower. The aftermarket wheels are 8" (vice stock 8.5") and the tires are wider 245mm (vice stock 235mm), adding up to tires that poke out from the rims a tiny bit, protecting them from rash. Our first AWD was rashed on all 4 corners within the first year, but the new ones appear relatively safe.

We like the softer ride. We aren't weekend racers. We are safer from scraping and road damage. We still look pretty cool...

 

[TheRFMan]

We aren't weekend racers.

Makes total sense. Quite frankly, I don't see any good reason to get a P if it's not going to see a racetrack or autocross course.

 

[TBrownTX]

Makes total sense. Quite frankly, I don't see any good reason to get a P if it's not going to see a racetrack or autocross course.

Lower stance, better handling, appearance benefits (spoiler, sport pedals, painted calipers), improved brakes, and I like the wheels very much.

Oh and it’s 1/2 second faster going 0-60 (fun). Other than that, I agree completely.

Not all of us live in states with terrible roads and/ or horrible climates.

Tim

 

[Phlier]

Did they let you drive it first, or just do a visual inspection? Good advice. I appreciate it. Best to be prepared to address that kind of thing BEFORE it's sprung on you at the last minute.

I did a 30 minute inspection of the car, verifying that everything worked and documenting the two paint flaws that I found. I did make sure it went into both forward and reverse, but didn't bother with a test drive... although that's not a bad idea.

 

[MdlY55]

What's your delivery time frame? Mine is March 03-31

they’re quoting me a delivery for March 14-31.

So, I assume it’s going to be more towards the end of March based on the other comments.

We’ll see

 

[Orbit]

I'm deciding between the Model 3 performance spec VS the long range spec with the acceleration boost.

Does anyone have any real world experience of comparing the G force feeling of acceleration between these two?
Specifically how noticeable the acceleration feeling is between the two?

From my research it appears that Tesla might under rate the performance of the acceleration boosted LR cars. From various Youtube videos it appears that the performance spec doesn't seem to be much better than the long range with acceleration boost.
It appears that the acceleration difference between the two is only for a short initial burst, and after a certain speed the acceleration is actually the same for both cars.

So for anyone who has launched both versions of the Model 3, how does the feel of the two compare? Is it quite noticeable, or not so much?
Especially from 0 to 30mph or even 0 to 60 mph. Since I am assuming over 60 mph they are basically the same.

It's a tough decision, especially considering the performance model has lower mile range on paper.

 

[sightman]

While I have not experienced both, here are my thoughts after reading about the topic.
First, Tesla quotes the perf time of 3.1s to 60 with 1 foot roll out. While the LR w boost is 3.7s without roll out. In reality the difference in less than this and more close to 0.5s delta.
The perf model is faster to 30mph, and both cars will be the same accelerating from 55+

 

[haroldo]

experience of comparing the G force feeling of acceleration

I've only driven the Long Range 3, and not an expert on G Force, but can attest that the car will throw your head back, your gut will feel it, and, it will elicit a religious expletive (holy sh@%!!) from your passenger(s).
I guess you could pay to have more of a forceful bang of your head against the headrest, but not sure if it's needed.
I fool around at an empty 1/4 mile office driveway, and usually give up before hitting 60 MPH (as the acceleration is almost too much to take...I'm 63, so...)

On the other hand, if you're taking the car to a drag strip, kindly ignore this (unscientific) review

 

[ODWms]

I read somewhere that the Long Range w/AB is like a Performance at a 30% state of charge or so?

 

[Gasaraki]

I read somewhere that the Long Range w/AB is like a Performance at a 30% state of charge or so?

The new Performance is very slow at 30% charge, slower than the regular LR.

Anyway sightman is basically correct. The boost upgrade adds about 50 HP to the about 400HP of the regular LR. So that take 50HP and calculate your "additional G forces" if you want.

 

[akenham]

Tesla has always undersold the AWD (by using standing start 0-60 figures for the awd Vs the more standard 1 foot rollout on performance).

The poster above is right - it's about 0.5s difference in reality and perf is the same at higher speeds.

I don't know how the extra 0.5s feels in terms of "seat of the pants" as I have a boosted AWD, but I can tell you that the gain of 0.5s from the boost was noticable, and when I borrowed a 4s 0-60 model X it felt slow.

The real questions in deciding, other than how much the extra grab of the acceleration is worth to you are:

- do you want to track the car? If so, the upgraded brakes, suspension and track mode will be necessary. If not, I'd say you won't see much difference but you will have the bragging rights.

- do you want to be able to travel at a higher max speed than the AWD? Note that your battery won't last long at such speeds. For most situations that aren't tracks or autobahns this difference is irrelevant.

- do you want (or not want) the low profile rims? This was a deal breaker for me - my uk country roads are too rough and destroy low profile tyres and wheels.

- do you mind the price hike from AWD to perf for all the above (bear in mind boost will eat £1500 of the difference on an AWD).

- do you mind the small efficiency loss vs AWD (last I checked this is because the larger wheels are less efficient).

Note that last I checked you couldn't fit Tesla made 18 inch aero's due to the size of the upgraded performance brakes to address either the potholes or efficiency problems but third party wheels were available, at least in the US.

PS at one point in time there was some variation in battery sizes (the perf got the biggest, offsetting the efficiency losses a bit). You’d have to check the battery and charging pinned threads for the latest on that.

 

[AtlantaMCR]

I had a 2018 DM w boost and it was totaled. Very fun with the factory 18s as I put PS4S tires on it. I then got a 21 P3D in December. I changed out those heavy ass 20s for some Forged Titan TS5s in 19s and of course PS4S tires. Much better with 10-12# less per corner. If I had to do it all over again, I would get LRDM/boost with base wheels. Put the same Titan setup on and go with MPP coilovers. IMO that would be a very fun car. Of course I still may do MPP coilovers on the P3D.