Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Total braking system failure?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
If nothing else, I'm sure a lot of us just learned how to operate the emergency brake

It’s astonishing that so many people drive around in 2+ ton vehicles without knowing how they function - without knowing the emergency procedures or what to do when something goes wrong. Read the manual, familiarize yourself with the systems and practice the procedures so you know what to do when the unexpected happens.
 
Having driven in the time before power brakes became a standard, I do remember the pressure needed to operate them. Under normal driving conditions in a regular car (not having regen) if one expects the feel of power brakes and tries to apply the brakes during a booster failure, it will definitely seem like the brake pedal is locked.

However, in a panic situation like the OP described, I would expect that adrenaline would kick in and one would be stomping on the brake hard enough to overcome the lack of boost.

I would be very interested in the outcome of the service visit. We know that there's a servo on the brake pedal. I'm wondering if there could be an issue with the servo. Again, just wondering....
 
  • Like
Reactions: navguy12
It wouldn't be a bad idea if every current driver swapped their lovely modern easy-to-drive car with a 1967 stick-shift Mustang for a day. They'd learn a lot about how cars work.
How about a 1950 Dodge with “three on the tree,” vacuum powered wipers (no washer), no side mirrors, no A/C, bench seats and an analog AM radio? That was my first car. Now I have a Model S Raven.
 
What this seems to suggest until proven otherwise is that 12v warning can possibly have more repercussions if it fails than simply powering general electronics or getting the car going.

The safety question here is when there is a loss of 12v power while driving do you lose the brake booster and can it lock the brakes out? Which feels a little ironic sitting on a huge battery.

For the babies doing rattle shaking ill translate.... Go to press brakes they didn't work, not the OP;s fault in any way. He is asking questions as anyone would.

I know you strive to find any morsel of negativity towards Tesla in your efforts to get them back. But to clarify at least some of the sentiments from this thread that you don’t want to acknowledge; We have many posted threads here from Tesla haters, short sellers, and people that just want to get Tesla back for things they feel have been done wrong to them like yourself. :)
For that reason, just because someone like the OP says has happened, doesn’t mean it’s factual, as much as you want it to be.
Doesn’t mean it isn’t factual either. As you said, we don’t know.
But you really need to understand that many here are skeptical and will ask clarifying questions because of shorts, haters, and people that want to get Tesla back. :)
If there weren’t so many of the above folks out there, there likely would be less questions. Hope that makes sense, and helps you understand the other side of the rattle shaking (as you put it), to people asking questions, and why. ... :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: Runt8 and navguy12
The physical braking system in my Model 3 completely failed this morning.
I didn't realize it until I got on the freeway ramp and almost hit the car in front of me.
Luckily, the regen braking was enough to slow the car down.

The brake pedal felt like it was in a locked position at the top of its range. Could not depress the pedal at all.

This was an absolute critical safety failure.

The car was acting strange from the first moment this morning.
1. erratic window roll down behavior when I opened the front door
2. dark/blank screen upon entry
3. warning message: vehicle hold feature unavailable
4. warning message: 12 v battery must be replace soon

After I rebooted the car, I drove off to working thinking it was nothing.
After realizing the brake failure, I got off the next freeway and exit and drove it back home safely.
With the road side assistance tech on the phone, I tried rebooting the car with no luck.
Then, tried powering the car off via the lcd screen and waiting a couple of minutes seems to solve the issue this time.

The car is now with the Tesla service center.

How could this happen? This was extremely dangerous and I feel very fortunate.
I could have easily found out the hard way at 70+ mph.

Hope this never happens again to me or anybody else, ever.
 
I have had the same issue as you describe with my model S (2015). I have extensive correspondence with the Toronto service centre on the issue, over the last couple of years, and many visits - including new brake booster, new pads (cold weather type apparently) and diagnostics. Extremely dangerous situation in multiple instances left me wanting to get rid of the car. Last visit they seemed to do something as the problem has not recurred, but they have not identified anything of significance that they did. Still feeling uneasy about the ultimate safety of the car. Having owned probably 20 cars in my life, never have I experienced a failure of the brakes!
Glad you had no adverse outcome!
 
I have had the same issue as you describe with my model S (2015). I have extensive correspondence with the Toronto service centre on the issue, over the last couple of years, and many visits - including new brake booster, new pads (cold weather type apparently) and diagnostics. Extremely dangerous situation in multiple instances left me wanting to get rid of the car. Last visit they seemed to do something as the problem has not recurred, but they have not identified anything of significance that they did. Still feeling uneasy about the ultimate safety of the car. Having owned probably 20 cars in my life, never have I experienced a failure of the brakes!
Glad you had no adverse outcome!
Thanks for sharing. Did you have a locked brake pedal or loss of boost assist? Did you apply the emergency brake to stop or rely on regenerative braking?
 
I have had the same issue as you describe with my model S (2015). I have extensive correspondence with the Toronto service centre on the issue, over the last couple of years, and many visits - including new brake booster, new pads (cold weather type apparently) and diagnostics. Extremely dangerous situation in multiple instances left me wanting to get rid of the car. Last visit they seemed to do something as the problem has not recurred, but they have not identified anything of significance that they did. Still feeling uneasy about the ultimate safety of the car. Having owned probably 20 cars in my life, never have I experienced a failure of the brakes!
Glad you had no adverse outcome!

So you joined here in 2017 and never felt the need to discuss your experience on here until today? That seems unusual to me.
 
Thanks for sharing. Did you have a locked brake pedal or loss of boost assist? Did you apply the emergency brake to stop or rely on regenerative braking?
Yes, locked brake pedal, where 'locked' could possibly be the result of a complete lack of power assist - but how could one know what degree of force would need to be applied to the pedal to get any effective braking without boost. As both my wife and I experienced separately, the car just kept on going, no matter how hard the brake pedal was pressed, literally using all the force possible. Then, after a few moments, the pedal would go way down and the ABS would kick in. It was the regen that prevented my wife from rear ending a car on the highway, and that when I forced the issue to a greater degree with the service centre. No have not used the emergency brake, and as you probably experienced, there is little to no time to do so, as a failure of the car to stop takes one by incredible surprise.
 
OP, that's terrifying. One thing I learned after reading your post is that there is a way to trigger the emergency brake.

Hopefully whatever failed in your car does not also take out the ebrake. If so, the lack of redundancy is poor design indeed!
View attachment 595669
it's a shame (some) cars don't still have the pull lever between the seats or the e/pedal. Guess the ol' cable notion is a by-gone era.
.
 
  • Like
Reactions: alstoralset
I know you strive to find any morsel of negativity towards Tesla in your efforts to get them back. But to clarify at least some of the sentiments from this thread that you don’t want to acknowledge; We have many posted threads here from Tesla haters, short sellers, and people that just want to get Tesla back for things they feel have been done wrong to them like yourself. :)
For that reason, just because someone like the OP says has happened, doesn’t mean it’s factual, as much as you want it to be.
Doesn’t mean it isn’t factual either. As you said, we don’t know.
But you really need to understand that many here are skeptical and will ask clarifying questions because of shorts, haters, and people that want to get Tesla back. :)
If there weren’t so many of the above folks out there, there likely would be less questions. Hope that makes sense, and helps you understand the other side of the rattle shaking (as you put it), to people asking questions, and why. ... :)

Yes - I'm sure there are plenty of haters and short sellers out there etc. But the majority of the empathetic responses come from folks who hope/expect their $50,000 or $60,000 Model 3 won't leave them in a lurch. I am the 2nd owner of my Model S - but I still shake my head when I see the original $130,000 window sticker. No way on god's green earth does the car represent that original cost. (And the depreciation is frightening.) In most cases, those who you consider "haters" are current owners who have possibly had issues with their cars and are wanting to know if they're the only ones experiencing that particular problem. The owner of the Model 3 who started this thread had a highly unusual and scary incident. So don't hop on the Elon love-train just yet.
 
So you joined here in 2017 and never felt the need to discuss your experience on here until today? That seems unusual to me.

Maybe they weren't comfortable sharing till they heard others have had similar concerns. Some owners might not share because they're afraid of getting the Inspector Clouseau treatment from folks like yourself...
 
but holding down the P button will cause the parking brake to apply, even at 60mph.

Not exactly.

Pressing the "P" for the "Park" setting while moving will provide an amount of friction to the rear brake pads and rotors so as to slow the car down and then stop it.

Try it sometime, BEFORE you need it for real, so that you'll know how it works . . . .

DARWIN ALERT: Recommend doing this on a straight road with very limited traffic behind you, and it should be NON-wet, NON-icy.
 
  • Funny
Reactions: navguy12