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Tow Hitch - OEM vs Aftermarket pros/cons

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With the OEM hitch being seemingly out of stock everywhere, I'm actually pondering If this wasn't a blessing in disguise and going aftermarket is the way?

OEM
- Pricey
- Includes tow mode
- Warranty?

Aftermarket
- Not pricey
- Does not include tow mode...

... Tow mode sounds like it sucks. I want lane centering, especially when towing long distances. Anything else to consider with the new cars that don't have the radar sensors? What am I missing...

I understand it's "unsafe" to tow without this software update, at least from a large manufacturer point of view. I've been towing without a tow mode my entire life though

Questions
- Do the magnetic bumper covers still fit aftermarket hitches? (I.e. the location of the square is exactly the same as OEM?)
- Possible to run more power to the trailer harness when going aftermarket? (Could split power from the rear cigarette lighter circuit)
- Has the aftermarket resolved the chains rubbing issue, perhaps with a different placement of the hooks?
 
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I needed a hitch on my Model Y for a bike rack. I've had U-Haul install hitches on previous SUVs (BMW X3, Nissan Xterra) and had great experiences with both of those. With the price of the factory-installed hitch at a whopping $1,000 from Tesla, I was thinking I'd just go after-market again. I looked at possible hitches and came across this video showing the installation process:


It's not complicated but there's a lot to remove and put back together and I realized that I didn't want someone pulling apart my brand new car like this. So I got the factory-installed hitch for peace of mind. Also, I want to use tow mode. I haven't put the bike rack on yet but without tow mode, my understanding is that I would get constant alerts that there's something right behind me and I don't need that kind of beeping in my life.

Can't help with your other questions but just some perspective from someone else who considered the same thing with towing experience with after-market hitches on other vehicles...
 
Depending how close your bile rack may be from the semsors, but generally
it's only when you are in reverse that you will here any beeping.

This. I have the sensors, and they only give me issues with the bike rack in reverse.

I sprung for the $1,300 add-on because I prefer factory harnesses without cutting and splicing, but that was it. I could care less about tow mode, and I don't like how it disables autopilot. There's no chance I'd pay extra for tow mode.

1688856677058.jpeg
 
The hitch also replaces a part of the crash structure. Having something blessed by the manufacturer is pretty significant in this regard.

True, but I don’t think it’s that significant. Crash structures are complicated with dozens of different parts to manage forces. The car isn’t going to disintegrate in a rear-end collision because an aftermarket chunk of metal is bolted in place of a factory part at the most-rearward part of the car.

I’ve heard of aftermarket bumper parts causing more damage in follow-on collisions, but that’s the extent of it. And that was from a promotional video to sell genuine Ford body parts.
 
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i've installed hitches on my 2 previous cars (mdx and enclave) but most i had to do was drop the rubber hanger for the muffler and bolting in the hitch. i took a look at the install videos for the y and decided to get it factory installed...i'm all for diy and do my own oil changes, brake jobs and even valve cover gasket replacements but i passed on the hitch. i'm also not about to take a brand new car to a 3rd party since its way too involved and many possible things to be done wrong. best option is to order it and save the couple hundred bucks vs having it installed at the service center.
 
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True, but I don’t think it’s that significant. Crash structures are complicated with dozens of different parts to manage forces. The car isn’t going to disintegrate in a rear-end collision because an aftermarket chunk of metal is bolted in place of a factory part at the most-rearward part of the car.

I’ve heard of aftermarket bumper parts causing more damage in follow-on collisions, but that’s the extent of it. And that was from a promotional video to sell genuine Ford body parts.
Not significant until you have your family in the car and someone rear ends you....
 
Not significant until you have your family in the car and someone rear ends you....
If I were rear-ended, the brand of metal bar under my bumper is the last thing I would care about.

The standard beam is there to manage crash forces and deform. A hitch, both factor and aftermarket, is a structural member that must withstand the forces of a trailer acting against it. Neither will flex or bend like the bumper reinforcement, but I don’t think that would matter much to any of us in the car. There are some interesting points to compare between hitch options, but I think this is a silly hair to split.
 
If I were rear-ended, the brand of metal bar under my bumper is the last thing I would care about.

The standard beam is there to manage crash forces and deform. A hitch, both factor and aftermarket, is a structural member that must withstand the forces of a trailer acting against it. Neither will flex or bend like the bumper reinforcement, but I don’t think that would matter much to any of us in the car. There are some interesting points to compare between hitch options, but I think this is a silly hair to split.
Hey, you do you. I went with OEM because I didn't want to compromise safety. 🤷‍♂️
 
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I think a pro of an aftermarket option is a higher tongue weight rating (someone jump in if I’m remembering incorrectly).
There are some folks on here that have dirt bikes on theirs, and the OEM one wouldn’t work for that amount of weight.
 
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I think a pro of an aftermarket option is a higher tongue weight rating (someone jump in if I’m remembering incorrectly).
There are some folks on here that have dirt bikes on theirs, and the OEM one wouldn’t work for that amount of weight.
Again though, that's a cascade of safety concerns. The factory hitch replaces the rear crash bar (effectively the inner bumper structure). The mounting points are by definition part of the crumple zone, and are designed to deform at a certain level of force. Any aftermarket company could make a hitch with a 10,000 pound load rating if they wanted - but that doesn't change the fact that what it is bolted to might not be up to it, or might fatigue with repeated stress at higher loads, giving less protection in rear impacts. Tesla has the structural analysis data to know what is appropriate here, the aftermarket companies do not. Tesla also knows how the weight impacts the vehicle dynamics, suspension loading, sustained power limits, braking capabilities, etc. It's really not a place to stray beyond the recommendations.
 
I don't know what you plan to tow but the aftermarket wire harnesses seem to all be the 4 wire type. I only wanted to use a cargo rack and bike rack so I was glad to go aftermarket. I installed the Draw Tite 76430. Taking my time and being very careful it took 3 hrs. If you saw the factory hitch, aftermarket hitch, and the original crash bumper in person, common sense would tell you there is no safety concern.
 
I installed the Draw Tite 76430
Just ordered this hitch, will report back on findings. I chose it because;
  • It's nice that it has a higher load rating than the Ecohitch, looks like the side brackets are a little beefier which is probably where this rating comes from
  • The chain hookups look to be slightly lower than on the Ecohitch, so easier to use (especially if you have big hands and are clumsy like me)
  • The downside is that it does not reuse the OEM crash bar (the Ecohitch does) - so probably not the best for those more highly concerned with safety
  • Was slightly cheaper than the Ecohitch as a bonus.
 
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Just ordered this hitch, will report back on findings. I chose it because;
  • It's nice that it has a higher load rating than the Ecohitch, looks like the side brackets are a little beefier which is probably where this rating comes from
  • The chain hookups look to be slightly lower than on the Ecohitch, so easier to use (especially if you have big hands and are clumsy like me)
  • The downside is that it does not reuse the OEM crash bar (the Ecohitch does) - so probably not the best for those more highly concerned with safety
  • Was slightly cheaper than the Ecohitch as a bonus.

Sounds good! I’d love to see photos if you do the install yourself.
 
I needed a hitch on my Model Y for a bike rack. I've had U-Haul install hitches on previous SUVs (BMW X3, Nissan Xterra) and had great experiences with both of those. With the price of the factory-installed hitch at a whopping $1,000 from Tesla, I was thinking I'd just go after-market again. I looked at possible hitches and came across this video showing the installation process:


It's not complicated but there's a lot to remove and put back together and I realized that I didn't want someone pulling apart my brand new car like this. So I got the factory-installed hitch for peace of mind. Also, I want to use tow mode. I haven't put the bike rack on yet but without tow mode, my understanding is that I would get constant alerts that there's something right behind me and I don't need that kind of beeping in my life.

Can't help with your other questions but just some perspective from someone else who considered the same thing with towing experience with after-market hitches on other vehicles...
If you have a 2023 Model Y hardware 4, you need to buy a tow hitch with a connector that fits hardware 4. Buying from the Tesla app under upgrades/exterior will match your VIN with correct tow hitch ( when becomes available), still out of stock.

For a vehicle with hardware 3 might be a different story, but check with a Tesla tech.
 
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If you have a 2023 Model Y hardware 4, you need to buy a tow hitch with a connector that fits hardware 4. Buying from the Tesla app under upgrades/exterior will match your VIN with correct tow hitch ( when becomes available), still out of stock.

For a vehicle with hardware 3 might be a different story, but check with a Tesla tech.
What would be different for HW4 and the tow hitch?
 
If you have a 2023 Model Y hardware 4, you need to buy a tow hitch with a connector that fits hardware 4. Buying from the Tesla app under upgrades/exterior will match your VIN with correct tow hitch ( when becomes available), still out of stock.

For a vehicle with hardware 3 might be a different story, but check with a Tesla tech.
I ordered my MYLR with a tow hitch from Tesla so I'm all set. I was just sharing my experience in deciding whether or not to get an OEM hitch from Tesla at order or going aftermarket. The tow hitch has been working great for me.