Nice! Mine come in around 46 lbs, but that was at $3.2k for wheels + 1k for tires (265/35/18)
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Track Tire/wheel Set Advice
- Thread starter destructure00
- Start date
Nice! Mine come in around 46 lbs, but that was at $3.2k for wheels + 1k for tires (265/35/18)
Will do! Next track day (night) is schedule for late August. I'm curious too about the camber, but the main purpose for me was to have something else to run so I don't tear up the street tires each time I'm out. Had to replace 2 PS4S with 2000 miles on them last time, corded the outside edge.
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Daniel in SD
(supervised)
14mm is the diameter, 12mm obviously wouldn’t fit. I’m using the factory nuts on my TSW wheels. Admittedly I didn’t check if the taper is the same (pretty sure it is) but that’s the only reason the factory nuts wouldn’t work. The factory ones are ugly without covers though.
I run 265-35-18 on RE71Rs, and just had my tires flipped. it was only $120 to do so, the wear was very asymmetric (even in the middle of the tire!). I don't have any pictures unfortunately.
The width is purely going to give you more grip and let you run faster, it will not help much with the wear due to lack of negative camber. Of course I'm not getting as much grip as I should without negative camber either! That's the next step for next year once somebody releases front adjustable camber suspension components.
Yea those are tuner nuts. Make sure to not lose the silver key (cylinder that fits around the nuts) that should have came with the box.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Ah, I see. I think on these wheels the recesses are wide enough to fit the old lug nuts...but not 100% certain as I did not (in the Dekagram) attempt to fully mount the wheel using a socket.
Other than allowing sufficient clearance, is there any other reason to use them other than street cred? It seems there is more thread engagement but pretty sure that does not actually matter...and it prevents the end of the lug bolt from rusting...and means no need for covers since they color match.
Just would prefer to not have to keep track of a splined tool just to be able to get my wheels off...trying to avoid unnecessary complication whenever I get my wheels.
I assume they were necessary in this case since the tire shop provided them, but just wondering whether it was only for aesthetics...
A wheel like the hypergram has deeper recessed holes for the lug nut.
is a decent video on it
I have not seen many aftermarket wheels where the stock lug nuts will fit. Part of the problem is that the opening will simply not accommodate the socket. But the nuts themselves often times are just a bit too big. We got a great set of lug nuts with locking nuts at AutoZone for like $30. Can't find the link however but I believe they were made by Dorman. The lug nut itself is a 3/4 inch hexagonal. Leaves a good amount of room for a standard wall three-quarter inch socket.
All except the lock nut have some kind of fairly durable chromium plating including a dark gray or faux black outer plating which makes them more durable. The lock nut appears to have a somewhat less durable chromium plating and that's why it's beginning to rust in this picture. It's possible that the sharp edges on the lock nut accrue more impact wear from the key.
But check out AutoZone. They have a pretty good selection of these things. Don't get a lock nut set where the key sits actually on the inside of the lock nut. Those won't tolerate 130 foot-pounds for very long and you'll be paying somebody to cut that off. These have the key wrapping around and covering the lock nut. I know folks are concerned about being in a situation where they lose the key and then I can't get the wheels off. You can get a separate backup key from Dorman or in our case we have two sets of these on two different model threes so there's always a spare key.
My big worry about the car with these appealing aftermarket wheels is somebody jacks it up in haste to boost your wheels and destroys the battery pack. In this instance you can see there's a lock nut so maybe that's a deterrent. But if the thief has ADD and misses the lock nut you could be screwed!
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Regarding lug nuts, at least on Hypergram...stock lug nuts appear to fit fine, but due to tight clearances it's very likely that things will get scratched up by the wider 21mm socket used. I tightened one down and here's the result:
Having trouble getting the new TPMS to read. New thread here if any of you have any tips:
New aftermarket TPMS won't read...how to fix?
New aftermarket TPMS won't read...how to fix?
Give it some time. If you got the right ones they'll work.
I put the stock 20s back on and it relearned them no problem. Put the track setup back on again and drove about 15 miles and have absolutely nothing....no readings, no errors...weird! Might swing back by discount in a bit and see what they say.
Tesla added a factory reset feature
While parked, go into service -> tpms -> factory reset. At least I think it's in the service menu? It's somewhere
It will force the car to look for new sensors
If that doesnt work, the TPMS discount tire gave you might be wrong
I've been updating the other thread with details, but essentially the guy from Discount thinks they installed incompatible dual frequency sensors. They are going to swap them out with single frequency sensors here in about 30 mins.
Here is a pic with the dekagrams. Set FTD today at out local autox with some tough competition (including the reigning SCCA BS national champ).
You just need to use a thin wall socket and make sure to press the wheel flat to the hub when putting on the first lug nut or taking the last one off.
Respectfully I would disagree. Although 200tw tires don't generally heat cycle out the same as a race tire they still last a little longer with a proper heat cycle.
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I think it depends on usage, on a road course (he said HPDE3) he's looking at 50+ heat cycles before they cord, noticing a few extra tenths of pace in the tire would be hard to notice between events over the course of a year or 2.
for auto cross where you never get them fully up to temp is probably easier to notice.
for auto cross where you never get them fully up to temp is probably easier to notice.
AlanSubie4Life
Efficiency Obsessed Member
Got my Dekagrams plus range/mild winter tires (CrossClimate+) on order this weekend for $1900 after the discount (including certificates for coverage of the tires which added $130...otherwise would have been about $1800). Will be a while before the wheels are in stock though.
For the wheel nuts, they included that in the price, but I'm definitely going to indicate to them I want 21mm nuts - preferably fairly long nuts. With a fairly long nut I can just use my non-marring socket and still have enough purchase to tighten to spec (if it's not long enough the socket will lose purchase on the nut as it is tightened, because the plastic surround does not allow the socket to be fully pushed down on the lug bolt/nut). However, if I take the plastic sheath off the socket, then the thin-wall socket will fit in the Dekagram holes fairly easily. But I'd prefer to not have to do that, so hopefully I can get a longer nut (21mm), color matched, than the stock nuts for these Dekagrams. For $40 I would hope I can get exactly what I want! Ideally one that covers the end of the bolt as well.
This way I'll have the same size nut (no need to keep two non-marring sockets in my tire kit), a color match, hopefully will get the ends of the lug bolts covered as well, and I'll be able to tighten to spec with a non-marring socket, without losing purchase. I guess we'll see. I should probably call them...
EDIT: Sigh. Never knew this would be such a tough decision. Steel or aluminum nuts...not sure if I should trust aluminum. Do I REALLY want 21mm socket size? That's going to look pretty big...and may be quite heavy. Looks like 19mm with 14mm bolt size is readily available. Decisions.
Anyway, guess I have to do some thinking. At least the stock nuts fit and can be tightened... I just have to be very careful.
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