Pretty standard(and new) drive:If you used FAT32 format, then my guess would be the usb drive is dead or can't be recognized by the car. Try using another drive. If that doesn't work then looks like you have a date with the Service Center.
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Pretty standard(and new) drive:If you used FAT32 format, then my guess would be the usb drive is dead or can't be recognized by the car. Try using another drive. If that doesn't work then looks like you have a date with the Service Center.
Pretty standard(and new) drive:
Just changed it to FAT32 via disk utility on my Mac and it's good to go! Thanks!You would have to download a special utility to format that drive as FAT32. Did you do that, or did you take the existing formatted partition and add the telsacam folder?
I would be very interested in hearing how long anyone has been able to avoid the dreaded "X", assuming that you drive your car daily. Please respond if you have a long run to report. It feels like we are grasping at straws and eventually all these work arounds still result in corruption....
Nope. 4Gb drive. Corrupts every few days at the longestIs everyone who's getting the x using a usb drive that has more than 32GB of storage? I'm using a 64GB that I partition into 2 partitions.
So far pausing before the car shuts down seems to be working. I'll update if I get the x still with this workaround.Nope. 4Gb drive. Corrupts every few days at the longest
I would be very interested in hearing how long anyone has been able to avoid the dreaded "X", assuming that you drive your car daily. Please respond if you have a long run to report. It feels like we are grasping at straws and eventually all these work arounds still result in corruption....
Sorry if this question was already answered, but how do you convert to GPT format on windows 10?Yes, we're grasping at straws. There's definitely multiple factors involved:
1. The Tesla DashCam process that's running has bugs.
2. The Tesla FAT32 file system driver has bugs.
3. The car powers off the USB ports when the car is shut down before the DashCam process stops writing the last file, corrupting that file and the file system.
4. The file system check process generates all the recoverd ".REC" files on the drive but doesn't fix the allocation table.
5. There are dozens or hundreds of different USB drives in use, all with different sizes, speeds, and chipsets.
6. People are preparing the drives in dozens of different ways.
I don't know that we can ever gather enough info to sort through all of that and find a common set of factors that result in the gray X.
For me, mine has been working without giving me the gray X for 3 days now, with several hours of driving and over a dozen start/stop cycles.
I can relay the following data points:
1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1
2. MBR disk format (as it came from the manufacturer)
3. Formatted the entire drive as FAT32 using the Fat32Formatter utility from Ridgecrop Consultants Ltd
This setup ran for about 30-45 minutes before I got the gray X. Tried this 3 times, resulted in the gray X each time.
I then did this:
1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1, same drive used above.
2. Converted to GPT format
3. Partitioned into 16 GB for TeslaCam, then remaining (about 98GB) for music.
4. Formatted the TeslaCam partition with Windows 10 built-in formatter for FAT32. Formatted music partition with Fat32Formatter from Ridgecrop.
This setup has been running 3 days without giving the gray X.
I have no idea whether the GPT format, the partitioning, the formatter, or blind luck has resulted in the elimination of the gray X. I'm just relaying what I did. There are some posters who seem to believe that I'm asserting otherwise. Nowhere have I claimed such a thing.
Nice summary page.Yes, we're grasping at straws. There's definitely multiple factors involved:
1. The Tesla DashCam process that's running has bugs.
2. The Tesla FAT32 file system driver has bugs.
3. The car powers off the USB ports when the car is shut down before the DashCam process stops writing the last file, corrupting that file and the file system.
4. The file system check process generates all the recoverd ".REC" files on the drive but doesn't fix the allocation table.
5. There are dozens or hundreds of different USB drives in use, all with different sizes, speeds, and chipsets.
6. People are preparing the drives in dozens of different ways.
I don't know that we can ever gather enough info to sort through all of that and find a common set of factors that result in the gray X.
For me, mine has been working without giving me the gray X for 3 days now, with several hours of driving and over a dozen start/stop cycles.
I can relay the following data points:
1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1
2. MBR disk format (as it came from the manufacturer)
3. Formatted the entire drive as FAT32 using the Fat32Formatter utility from Ridgecrop Consultants Ltd
This setup ran for about 30-45 minutes before I got the gray X. Tried this 3 times, resulted in the gray X each time.
I then did this:
1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1, same drive used above.
2. Converted to GPT format
3. Partitioned into 16 GB for TeslaCam, then remaining (about 98GB) for music.
4. Formatted the TeslaCam partition with Windows 10 built-in formatter for FAT32. Formatted music partition with Fat32Formatter from Ridgecrop.
This setup has been running 3 days without giving the gray X.
I have no idea whether the GPT format, the partitioning, the formatter, or blind luck has resulted in the elimination of the gray X. I'm just relaying what I did. There are some posters who seem to believe that I'm asserting otherwise. Nowhere have I claimed such a thing. I have a disclaimer at the bottom of my tutorial post that specifically states that I could be wrong on some things, everything, or otherwise.
Yes, we're grasping at straws. There's definitely multiple factors involved:
1. The Tesla DashCam process that's running has bugs.
2. The Tesla FAT32 file system driver has bugs.
3. The car powers off the USB ports when the car is shut down before the DashCam process stops writing the last file, corrupting that file and the file system.
4. The file system check process generates all the recoverd ".REC" files on the drive but doesn't fix the allocation table.
5. There are dozens or hundreds of different USB drives in use, all with different sizes, speeds, and chipsets.
6. People are preparing the drives in dozens of different ways.
I don't know that we can ever gather enough info to sort through all of that and find a common set of factors that result in the gray X.
For me, mine has been working without giving me the gray X for 3 days now, with several hours of driving and over a dozen start/stop cycles.
I can relay the following data points:
1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1
2. MBR disk format (as it came from the manufacturer)
3. Formatted the entire drive as FAT32 using the Fat32Formatter utility from Ridgecrop Consultants Ltd
This setup ran for about 30-45 minutes before I got the gray X. Tried this 3 times, resulted in the gray X each time.
I then did this:
1. 128 GB SanDisk UltraFit USB 3.1, same drive used above.
2. Converted to GPT format
3. Partitioned into 16 GB for TeslaCam, then remaining (about 98GB) for music.
4. Formatted the TeslaCam partition with Windows 10 built-in formatter for FAT32. Formatted music partition with Fat32Formatter from Ridgecrop.
This setup has been running 3 days without giving the gray X.
I have no idea whether the GPT format, the partitioning, the formatter, or blind luck has resulted in the elimination of the gray X. I'm just relaying what I did. There are some posters who seem to believe that I'm asserting otherwise. Nowhere have I claimed such a thing. I have a disclaimer at the bottom of my tutorial post that specifically states that I could be wrong on some things, everything, or otherwise.
Sorry if this question was already answered, but how do you convert to GPT format on windows 10?
I'm sure it'll work given that it is formated in fat32. And will probably suffer the same result as lots of owners have tried many different drives .anyone tried a portable SSD (e.g. Samsung T3 or T5) instead of a normal USB flash drive?