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What did you do to your Tesla Model 3 today?

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adhesive closed-cell foam sandwiched between the metal "parcel shelf" and black interior covering will help with road noise generated/exacerbated by the air held in the boot. If you can get 1/4" minimum in there, this could be a winner.

I'm going to have to take out the whole shelf covering and rear left c-pillar trim to sort out rattles so will document with pics when I get round to it.

Some place sell this in 2mx1m adhesive sheets, will be a perfect size for full covering and some bits left over for problem trims.
 
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adhesive closed-cell foam sandwiched between the metal "parcel shelf" and black interior covering will help with road noise generated/exacerbated by the air held in the boot. If you can get 1/4" minimum in there, this could be a winner.

I'm going to have to take out the whole shelf covering and rear left c-pillar trim to sort out rattles so will document with pics when I get round to it.

Some place sell this in 2mx1m adhesive sheets, will be a perfect size for full covering and some bits left over for problem trims.
I lined the underside of the parcel shelf with this, taking care to leave the long slot & a couple of other small openings free to make sure subwoofer output isn't affected.

2m Roll Car Sound Proofing Noise Heat Insulation Foam Self Adhesive 10mm Thick | eBay
 
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Fitted. Installation was a real effort due to lack of contortionist ability. Acoustic benefit? Not demonstrated due to confounding variables (like a DreamCase, Road Hero spare and a load of other stuff). Appearance? Looks great if you are lying face up on a DreamCase with your head under the shelf ;) We use it with our feet at that end so meh
I have a 4 year old and and 8 year old so contorsionism shouldn't be an issue. They've just finished installing the rubber door seals so they should be about ready for a new project.
 
I'm interested in the auto open frunk struts (not the electronic ones) and maybe the boot ones too. Are these as easy to put in as they look? I'm a complete amateur of anything like this but from what i've seen they just clip in and out
Very easy, just take your time, protect any nearby glass with a towel and if you're applying force you're doing it wrong.
 
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How much more difficult do these make closing the frunk? My concern was that the frunk feels a bit fragile, and the area where you put the flat of both hands to close it feels as if it "gives" a bit with the standard struts. I wondered if the stiffer helper springs increased the force needed to close it.

This was one of the reasons I opted to get the electric kit, as I use the frunk a lot, and was starting to get a bit concerned about distorting the flat area where you have to push on it to close, especially as it's not always easy to do as the manual specifies and always use both hands to close it.
 
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How much more difficult do these make closing the frunk? My concern was that the frunk feels a bit fragile, and the area where you put the flat of both hands to close it feels as if it "gives" a bit with the standard struts. I wondered if the stiffer helper springs increased the force needed to close it.

This was one of the reasons I opted to get the electric kit, as I use the frunk a lot, and was starting to get a bit concerned about distorting the flat area where you have to push on it to close, especially as it's not always easy to do as the manual specifies and always use both hands to close it.
I haven't noticed any difference in closing the trunk, they don't appear to be any stiffer to close than the original struts. I did replace the frunk spring though, to make the final shutting operation a bit easier.
 
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I lined the underside of the parcel shelf with this, taking care to leave the long slot & a couple of other small openings free to make sure subwoofer output isn't affected.

2m Roll Car Sound Proofing Noise Heat Insulation Foam Self Adhesive 10mm Thick | eBay

The noise actually comes from the sub-trunk and wheel wells in the rear. You can solve this but it takes a bit more effort. 4 hours for me, but I've done it before. To really do it correctly you need several layers. Butyl and closed cell and I also added another third layer on the flat areas. This kills multiple frequencies. Road noise gone and music/bass sounds genius now without killing the bass by preventing it from entering the cabin through the shelf.
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Beast mode!
 

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The noise actually comes from the sub-trunk and wheel wells in the rear. You can solve this but it takes a bit more effort. 4 hours for me, but I've done it before. To really do it correctly you need several layers. Butyl and closed cell and I also added another third layer on the flat areas. This kills multiple frequencies. Road noise gone and music/bass sounds genius now without killing the bass by preventing it from entering the cabin through the shelf.View attachment 585446 Beast mode!
From a distance I thought that was a Louis Vuitton custom boot liner!

Then I zoomed in.
 
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Today’s modification was to take a co-op non fragranced baby wipe and clean off grubby paw marks from some of the interior trim that I didn’t spot on collection day.

Modification complete. They work great on the seats, dash, door cards and roof/pillar/sun visor material.

Frunk mat and USB>SD Card reader arriving tomorrow, SD card arrived today.
 
Fitted Integral USB > SD adaptor and Lexar high-speed 128GB SD card today. All recognised and formatted with no issues and plays back Dashcam clips instantly.

Also fitted frunk mat liner, same type as I bought for the boot.

Waiting on screen protector.
 
I fitted my froot and lower boot rubber mats today and checked, but didn't fit yet, the two froot carrier bag hooks I 3D printed a few months ago. transferred all the Tesla freebies (charger cables, Westphalia tow hook and first-aid kit) to the froot to leave the boot and lower boot free for my future use.
Also put a USB-A to mini-USB cable hidden in the door seals between the rear-view mirror and one of the USB-C sockets on the rear of the front-centre armrest to power a Nextbase 412GW dashcam. A short USB-C to USB-A lead completes the link.
I have some of those extra-strong boot and froot gas pistons to try out for a while before I take the plunge on going "fully Hansshow electric" if Mr H is available at some point.