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What is this high pitched cricket like noise?
- Thread starter rjack1282
- Start date
I had the same issue - probably still do when it’s cold and when the speed is around 49-50. Once I go to 51, the noise dies down.
I took it in a few months ago saying the issue was in the rear - but they ended up replacing the front drive unit - there was another bearing noise they detected
Remove the back seat bench - just comes right off when you pull - leave it down. You don’t need to disconnect the harness.
Drive around - If you hear the sound a lot more from rear drive unit - what I did was to insert some sound deadening foam on top of the rear drive unit behind rear seat and then put the seat back on - it seems to reduce it
Some drive units did not have the perimeter seal fitted correctly but it’s tough to get Tesla to agree that’s the issue. The seal itself is only 15$
I took it in a few months ago saying the issue was in the rear - but they ended up replacing the front drive unit - there was another bearing noise they detected
Remove the back seat bench - just comes right off when you pull - leave it down. You don’t need to disconnect the harness.
Drive around - If you hear the sound a lot more from rear drive unit - what I did was to insert some sound deadening foam on top of the rear drive unit behind rear seat and then put the seat back on - it seems to reduce it
Some drive units did not have the perimeter seal fitted correctly but it’s tough to get Tesla to agree that’s the issue. The seal itself is only 15$
12/1 Service Appointment Summary (Attempt #4 at FDU/front driver side squealing noise resolution)
Tesla Service Center - Fayetteville, GA
Short Version: Went on a ride-along with a Sr. Technician (both experience and age). I was able to replicate the noise in several, 1-5 second long increments. Unfortunately, the technician could not hear the high-frequency squeals. Tesla policy is to refuse any repairs unless the issue is confirmed by the technician during ride-along. Even if the service manager approves an override to the policy, the estimated cost to drain and replace the oil in both drive units was approximately $1,300 ($900 for labor and about $400 for oil they apparently have to special order). Another visit in the books where nothing actually happened.
The rest of the story: The service advisor was helpful hearing all the details of my experience so far and how stuck owners like myself are with issues like this. The technician was also wanting to help but I don't think he had the capacity to hear frequencies that high anymore (due to age and/or environmental exposure). The service advisor shared that even if a drive unit was making a very audible, obvious grinding noise, Tesla's default action would still be not to repair anything under warranty if the car was still drivable - they would wait until the drive unit completely fails before anything would be done. Sometimes the vehicle alerts drivers of an impending failure and other times it does not. I asked why Tesla would choose to wait for a more costly repair instead of remedying the symptoms earlier on with a less invasive and costly preventative action - setting aside the inconvenience (at best) and safety risks (at worst) that could cause for the driver and their family. That's just the way it is apparently. I'm stuck with no other options for recourse, since even a Lemon Law buyback would require evidence of Tesla service acknowledging the problem on 3+ occasions (in GA) and being unsuccessful at resolving it. If they never acknowledge the issue in the first place, well I'm stuck!
Although the ride-along tech was unable to hear the noise, I shared a video my wife recorded in my Y over Thanksgiving with several examples of the noise. I had shared the video via a Google Drive link, per Tesla request, in the service messages prior to the visit. As it turns out, the SC's firewall blocks access to Google Drive. I showed him the video on my phone, and he was able to hear the noise. Even still, there wasn't much he could do. He said, much like the experience of others in this thread, he could keep the car for a few days and try to replicate the noise, but I'd more than likely receive the car back with a claim that nobody could hear any noise. He instead said that there is a younger, yet plenty experienced technician that works at that SC, and he suggested I try another ride-along with him as temperatures continue to cool off in the area and if the noise becomes more consistent. (He's there pretty much every day, but happened to be out sick today.) I also mentioned that the noise is most noticeable when both the outside air and the vehicle are cool, so it could be useful to leave the vehicle at the SC overnight so a technician can test/ride-along in the morning when it is the coldest. He agreed this would be best. I'll be scheduling another appointment sometime in the next couple months to try this again.
If you were expecting a relatively straightforward DU oil replacement to cost a couple hundred bucks... you are unfortunately mistaken like I was. I can't afford that kind of money for a fix that may or may not work.
Back to the drawing board... If you've made it this far through my rambling, thanks! I wish I had better news to share with the group, but my pessimistic outlook turned out to be correct.
Tesla Service Center - Fayetteville, GA
Short Version: Went on a ride-along with a Sr. Technician (both experience and age). I was able to replicate the noise in several, 1-5 second long increments. Unfortunately, the technician could not hear the high-frequency squeals. Tesla policy is to refuse any repairs unless the issue is confirmed by the technician during ride-along. Even if the service manager approves an override to the policy, the estimated cost to drain and replace the oil in both drive units was approximately $1,300 ($900 for labor and about $400 for oil they apparently have to special order). Another visit in the books where nothing actually happened.
The rest of the story: The service advisor was helpful hearing all the details of my experience so far and how stuck owners like myself are with issues like this. The technician was also wanting to help but I don't think he had the capacity to hear frequencies that high anymore (due to age and/or environmental exposure). The service advisor shared that even if a drive unit was making a very audible, obvious grinding noise, Tesla's default action would still be not to repair anything under warranty if the car was still drivable - they would wait until the drive unit completely fails before anything would be done. Sometimes the vehicle alerts drivers of an impending failure and other times it does not. I asked why Tesla would choose to wait for a more costly repair instead of remedying the symptoms earlier on with a less invasive and costly preventative action - setting aside the inconvenience (at best) and safety risks (at worst) that could cause for the driver and their family. That's just the way it is apparently. I'm stuck with no other options for recourse, since even a Lemon Law buyback would require evidence of Tesla service acknowledging the problem on 3+ occasions (in GA) and being unsuccessful at resolving it. If they never acknowledge the issue in the first place, well I'm stuck!
Although the ride-along tech was unable to hear the noise, I shared a video my wife recorded in my Y over Thanksgiving with several examples of the noise. I had shared the video via a Google Drive link, per Tesla request, in the service messages prior to the visit. As it turns out, the SC's firewall blocks access to Google Drive. I showed him the video on my phone, and he was able to hear the noise. Even still, there wasn't much he could do. He said, much like the experience of others in this thread, he could keep the car for a few days and try to replicate the noise, but I'd more than likely receive the car back with a claim that nobody could hear any noise. He instead said that there is a younger, yet plenty experienced technician that works at that SC, and he suggested I try another ride-along with him as temperatures continue to cool off in the area and if the noise becomes more consistent. (He's there pretty much every day, but happened to be out sick today.) I also mentioned that the noise is most noticeable when both the outside air and the vehicle are cool, so it could be useful to leave the vehicle at the SC overnight so a technician can test/ride-along in the morning when it is the coldest. He agreed this would be best. I'll be scheduling another appointment sometime in the next couple months to try this again.
If you were expecting a relatively straightforward DU oil replacement to cost a couple hundred bucks... you are unfortunately mistaken like I was. I can't afford that kind of money for a fix that may or may not work.
Back to the drawing board... If you've made it this far through my rambling, thanks! I wish I had better news to share with the group, but my pessimistic outlook turned out to be correct.
I have the similar sound and its making me go crazy.
Tesla model y from Germany 2023 First batch - Wind noise from left window and this high pitched noise.
High pitch is very noticible at 80 kmt/50 mph. Possible to hear it as low as 60kmt/40mph but then you need to know of it.
Noise is coming when powermeter is just barely over or underneath neutral power.
On my first SC appointment, the technichan denied every noise from the car. He had made up his mind before entering the car.
Second time I went to a different SC - The technichan could not replicate the sound though i had specified both speed and acceleration. They had the car inside the warm garage and supercharged it before test driving - Which makes the noise go away for a while.
Although the techichan this time knew of the problem and said that the oil change of the Front drive unit just made the problem go away for a week or two? He said they could not just change the drive unit because the sound I was reffering to (the sound he couldnt replicate) was not dangerous to the car or driver - And that that changing the drive unit could possibly not be the soloution. He also said if Tesla gets a bulletin upgrade I would get it.
Im not accepting the answer to just wait it out.
They took a video and sound check, but doesnt matter when they did not replicate the sound.
The servicedesk asked me to make a recordning and send it over when I hear it again.
Now I have the recordnings and are going for a new try. This is so time consuming and yet a so big problem that I need to fix.
Will let you know how it goes
Tesla model y from Germany 2023 First batch - Wind noise from left window and this high pitched noise.
High pitch is very noticible at 80 kmt/50 mph. Possible to hear it as low as 60kmt/40mph but then you need to know of it.
Noise is coming when powermeter is just barely over or underneath neutral power.
On my first SC appointment, the technichan denied every noise from the car. He had made up his mind before entering the car.
Second time I went to a different SC - The technichan could not replicate the sound though i had specified both speed and acceleration. They had the car inside the warm garage and supercharged it before test driving - Which makes the noise go away for a while.
Although the techichan this time knew of the problem and said that the oil change of the Front drive unit just made the problem go away for a week or two? He said they could not just change the drive unit because the sound I was reffering to (the sound he couldnt replicate) was not dangerous to the car or driver - And that that changing the drive unit could possibly not be the soloution. He also said if Tesla gets a bulletin upgrade I would get it.
Im not accepting the answer to just wait it out.
They took a video and sound check, but doesnt matter when they did not replicate the sound.
The servicedesk asked me to make a recordning and send it over when I hear it again.
Now I have the recordnings and are going for a new try. This is so time consuming and yet a so big problem that I need to fix.
Will let you know how it goes
23MYLR5 MiC, same issue. Low speed everything is good. If I accelerate very slowly, the chirping starts at anywhere between 90-100kms (sometimes as early as low 80's). Once it starts chirping, I can slowly decel, and the noise is loudest at 73km/s or so. Going slower, sometimes, the chirping won't go away until <50km/s. When trying to capture the sound, it's most recordable in the driver's footwell. I tried lifting up the 2nd row seats, the noise didn't get louder, which to me means the panthouse parimeter seal might be fine, so is the rear drive unit. I was suspecting the front DU like the rest here. A lot of M3 owners reported the fix by tightening/replacing the ground strap.
1st try at Oakville, actually no noise when the tech rode along. 2nd try at Kitchener, I got there an hour early early morning, turn off AC. The tech drove it without me and acknowledged the noise. They then determined that they found internal issue with rear drive unit, and that it needs to be replaced. I got this scheduled for 10/15. Will update. I did tell them that for the record, I believe the noise comes from the front.
1st try at Oakville, actually no noise when the tech rode along. 2nd try at Kitchener, I got there an hour early early morning, turn off AC. The tech drove it without me and acknowledged the noise. They then determined that they found internal issue with rear drive unit, and that it needs to be replaced. I got this scheduled for 10/15. Will update. I did tell them that for the record, I believe the noise comes from the front.
I also hear an even higher pitch noise when I start preconditioning the battery. I hear this noise more easily at pretty low speeds. But it is different than the crickets noise we're discussing in this thread
sorry i missed, so they replaced your front drive unit? my tech in Canada always told me the noise is not a concern within spec.... how can I get them go further?
I had it replaced on my M3LR after seven visits to the service center. During my last two visits, the noise was evident, and they were able to make a clear recording. The team was helpful, but I believe they were following orders from engineering. Now, I'm experiencing the same issue with my MYLR. I visited a new service center near my house, but I think I'll need to go back to the previous one.
I suggest continuing to go there, asking them to record and to contact engineering multiple times.
This may be interesting to some...
A friend of mine (girlfriend's friend actually) who is an automotive mechanical engineer agreed to go for a ride along with me in my Tesla and provide me with his opinion.
First, he did in fact hear the noise and stated that this noise would not be considered normal noise in his line of work (gasoline/diesel, not EV).
Second, he pointed out that cold temperatures affect lubricant viscosity.
Third, he stated that metal will shrink, or contract in cold temperatures.
Fourth and finally, he said that he believes (with a degree of certainty) that the noise we're hearing is a ball bearing operating at high speed without the proper lubricant or fitment specs for colder temperatures.
Now, based on what he said, I went searching and found this. I believe this is the noise that we're hearing and he was absolutely right about it being a ball bearing. Is the ball bearing failing? I don't think so. I think the metal balls are contracting (maybe a revision shrunk them which was fine in normal temps, not in cold temps) and/or the lubricant is struggling to do its job and we're hearing the balls race around the bearing above a certain speed/below a certain temperature. It's just a theory, but if Tesla changed something (new revision), it would explain why some folks had success with a drive unit replacement (perhaps an older revision/using an older ball bearing design/lubricant) and some haven't.
Sadly, I don't think this helps us, at all. I do not think Tesla will ever own up to this being a problem if this is indeed the source of our noise.
A friend of mine (girlfriend's friend actually) who is an automotive mechanical engineer agreed to go for a ride along with me in my Tesla and provide me with his opinion.
First, he did in fact hear the noise and stated that this noise would not be considered normal noise in his line of work (gasoline/diesel, not EV).
Second, he pointed out that cold temperatures affect lubricant viscosity.
Third, he stated that metal will shrink, or contract in cold temperatures.
Fourth and finally, he said that he believes (with a degree of certainty) that the noise we're hearing is a ball bearing operating at high speed without the proper lubricant or fitment specs for colder temperatures.
Now, based on what he said, I went searching and found this. I believe this is the noise that we're hearing and he was absolutely right about it being a ball bearing. Is the ball bearing failing? I don't think so. I think the metal balls are contracting (maybe a revision shrunk them which was fine in normal temps, not in cold temps) and/or the lubricant is struggling to do its job and we're hearing the balls race around the bearing above a certain speed/below a certain temperature. It's just a theory, but if Tesla changed something (new revision), it would explain why some folks had success with a drive unit replacement (perhaps an older revision/using an older ball bearing design/lubricant) and some haven't.
Sadly, I don't think this helps us, at all. I do not think Tesla will ever own up to this being a problem if this is indeed the source of our noise.
That could absolutely be the case. Nice investigating. Probably nothing which can be done easely at home?
I got my car back from SC today. Had a test drive with a mechanic last week. On the testdrive I could hear the sound, but unfortunetly he didnt.
I gave them sound files, one with the noise pitched higher with EQ and one normal so he knew what to listen to. They took the car in, but on the report they wrote only that the DU is normal. They fixed my wind noise problem, so kindy happy
Im considering to soundproof the area where my feet are. Side walls and under the foot mat.
I got my car back from SC today. Had a test drive with a mechanic last week. On the testdrive I could hear the sound, but unfortunetly he didnt.
I gave them sound files, one with the noise pitched higher with EQ and one normal so he knew what to listen to. They took the car in, but on the report they wrote only that the DU is normal. They fixed my wind noise problem, so kindy happy
Im considering to soundproof the area where my feet are. Side walls and under the foot mat.
I agree that it could be a bearing issue due to higher lube viscosity or thermal contraction in the cold. If that was the case though, wouldn't a front DU replacement immediately solve the issue? It did nothing for me and has actually made my issue worse, happening slightly less loud but at a wider range of speeds. Only three explanations as I see it:
1) The remanufactured DU and inverter assy they installed was also faulty straight from the factory
2) The noise is not coming from the DU & inverter assembly
3) My front DU and inverter were not actually replaced as I was told they were (pretty unlikely)
1) The remanufactured DU and inverter assy they installed was also faulty straight from the factory
2) The noise is not coming from the DU & inverter assembly
3) My front DU and inverter were not actually replaced as I was told they were (pretty unlikely)
A drive unit replacement wouldn't solve the issue if all the drive units being produced (and used now) share the same problematic bearing (assuming it is a bearing). I'm tempted to ask the folks on this forum for their input, they seem to know a lot about the drive units.
Found on the mighty internet 
Minor Motor/Inverter noise – You may hear the whine of the motor/inverter, in which the pitch directly changes with speed. On RWD cars, most owners cannot hear this at all. On AWD cars, it may be noticeable from the front motor, as it is closer to the cabin.
Minor Motor/Inverter noise – You may hear the whine of the motor/inverter, in which the pitch directly changes with speed. On RWD cars, most owners cannot hear this at all. On AWD cars, it may be noticeable from the front motor, as it is closer to the cabin.
GlmnAlyAirCar
Active Member
No, this is definitely not inverter noise.Found on the mighty internet
Minor Motor/Inverter noise – You may hear the whine of the motor/inverter, in which the pitch directly changes with speed. On RWD cars, most owners cannot hear this at all. On AWD cars, it may be noticeable from the front motor, as it is closer to the cabin.
And this :
Abnormal Sounds.
Motor whine/milling sound – This can be a loud whine that gets louder over time. The sound frequency changes with speed, but usually doesn’t get louder with speed. This can be caused by a problem with the reduction gear (rare), or more commonly a bad bearing. Tesla will likely need to repair the drive unit. Some noise from the front motor in AWD cars is normal. For the bearing issue, the noise only occurs when power is applied. During regen, it immediately disappears.
My previous post #715 was normal sounds.
Abnormal Sounds.
Motor whine/milling sound – This can be a loud whine that gets louder over time. The sound frequency changes with speed, but usually doesn’t get louder with speed. This can be caused by a problem with the reduction gear (rare), or more commonly a bad bearing. Tesla will likely need to repair the drive unit. Some noise from the front motor in AWD cars is normal. For the bearing issue, the noise only occurs when power is applied. During regen, it immediately disappears.
My previous post #715 was normal sounds.
I’d like to memorialize myself in this thread as one of the “victims of the chirp”. Had it at SC today before I’d found this thread. The tech heard it and I noticed a slight change in his demeanor, a bit more guarded perhaps. After reading this thread for 2 hours, I think I see why. I got the boiler plate response that they give out now; we are aware and working on a fix etc etc. I can read between the lines and figure this issue is on page 600 of their list of their engineering concerns to remedy.
So, it’s nice this support group exists!
My stats;
-2023 MYLR with 2200 miles.
-This SC visit fixed (or so they say), a “thud” (detached trim), realigned headlights (low beams blinded oncoming traffic), liftgate leak (they said they found 4 pinholes in a seam) and the dreaded “chirp” (don’t worry we’re working on it)
-My chirp loves 65-68 mph
-I got this 2023 MYLR and sold my 2021 MYLR after litany of issues including a leaking liftgate (3 SC visits), 4 windshields, faulty sensors and so on
-I got lit on Reddit when I posted I couldn’t believe my 2023 MY leaks like my 2021. My logic was that it had been 2.5 years and surely was fixed by now. (HA!)
Anyways, misery loves company and that’s why I’m here. I’ll keep an eye on the thread, but for now I think we can only hope they are actually fixing it.
So, it’s nice this support group exists!
My stats;
-2023 MYLR with 2200 miles.
-This SC visit fixed (or so they say), a “thud” (detached trim), realigned headlights (low beams blinded oncoming traffic), liftgate leak (they said they found 4 pinholes in a seam) and the dreaded “chirp” (don’t worry we’re working on it)
-My chirp loves 65-68 mph
-I got this 2023 MYLR and sold my 2021 MYLR after litany of issues including a leaking liftgate (3 SC visits), 4 windshields, faulty sensors and so on
-I got lit on Reddit when I posted I couldn’t believe my 2023 MY leaks like my 2021. My logic was that it had been 2.5 years and surely was fixed by now. (HA!)
Anyways, misery loves company and that’s why I’m here. I’ll keep an eye on the thread, but for now I think we can only hope they are actually fixing it.
Just picked up the MY at the SC. I spoke to the advisor about my frustrations. I didn’t expect anything (info or a solution) and I didn’t get that. He did say that he has seen similar strange noises in early model year MS that were fixed with a firmware update.
Not sure why I’m even posting this other than to share the non-info I was given.
Not sure why I’m even posting this other than to share the non-info I was given.
My cricket sound appears randomly wether I Regen or not. Lately it changes a bit though. It tends to not come and go quickly but transforms into a high pitched hissing sound that stays a bit longer and disappears. Difficult to explain. Even more in English. It tends to like 80/100 km/h speed but the sound does not change depending on the speed. I thought it was electric at first but a bearing might also be possible.
It would be nice to hear from the outside but I couldn't try with opened windows yet.
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