Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

X: What's your 90%?

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
What tire size is your X?

pwXOxFk.jpg
20''. and one more interesting thing found yesterday. supercharging stops at 99%, charging at home - at 100% with the same figures.
 
Out of curiosity how often do you charge to 99-100% at Superchargers or at home?

Just wondering if this has impacted your battery degradation at all.

Once you get above 93% or so at a supercharger it's essentially the same amount of power going into your car that you would get at home on a high amp charger. The power tapers off, so really it's the same no matter where you plug in. Superchargers are just stacks of chargers like the one in your car running together in parallel. At low SoC they combine for super high output, but once you start tapering way down at some point you drop below what the wall connector would also provide.

Can't speak for X, but in my S once I get above about 93-94% I'm pulling the same kW from a supercharger that I would be getting from 80amp HPWC, and it drops from there. Near 100% it pulls 1kW or less. That's less then even the standard 5-15 wall plug would be capable of.
 
Once you get above 93% or so at a supercharger it's essentially the same amount of power going into your car that you would get at home on a high amp charger. The power tapers off, so really it's the same no matter where you plug in. Superchargers are just stacks of chargers like the one in your car running together in parallel. At low SoC they combine for super high output, but once you start tapering way down at some point you drop below what the wall connector would also provide.

Can't speak for X, but in my S once I get above about 93-94% I'm pulling the same kW from a supercharger that I would be getting from 80amp HPWC, and it drops from there. Near 100% it pulls 1kW or less. That's less then even the standard 5-15 wall plug would be capable of.
I fully understand what you are saying about the Charging Power (kW) being lower especially above 90% State Of Charge (SOC).

However, that was not my point. I thought it was commonly thought of that leaving these batteries at high SOC (> 95% as an example) regularly and for lengths of time has a degradation impact. That was my angle of how often they charge to 99-100% SOC.

Anode Degradation Due to Structural Changes. Cycling the lithium-ion batteries at a high discharge rate and high state of charge (SOC) induces mechanical strain on the graphite lattice of the anode electrode. The nature and orientation of the graphite particles influences the reversible capacity of the anode.
Battery Degradation and How It Impacts Vehicle Performance
and
http://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
 
I fully understand what you are saying about the Charging Power (kW) being lower especially above 90% State Of Charge (SOC).

However, that was not my point. I thought it was commonly thought of that leaving these batteries at high SOC (> 95% as an example) regularly and for lengths of time has a degradation impact. That was my angle of how often they charge to 99-100% SOC.


Battery Degradation and How It Impacts Vehicle Performance
and
http://batteryuniversity.com/index.php/learn/article/how_to_prolong_lithium_based_batteries
Yes, I was assuming the comment referred to charging to 100% or some other high state of charge, and then immediately (or within an hour or so) driving it back down to 90% or under, which does little damage.

Leaving it at 94-100% for extended periods of time is not good at all though.
 
I have a 2 year old MX 75D with 32,000 miles. 90% is 200. I baby the battery - normally charge it to 80%, don't keep it at 100% for more than a couple of hours and have supercharged roughly 40 times. My 80% range has decreased from the high 180s (187ish) shortly after delivery pickup to 177 today. In the first winter it fell into the low-to-mid 180s and stabilized but seems to have fallen over the last several month (in the summer!). I have a friend with a 2 1/2 year old MX 90D with similar driving habits and about 40k miles and his 100% is 250 (vs 257 at delivery) while mine is roughly 220 (vs 237 at delivery and 234 shortly after). I know actual range will be lower, but why has my rated range declined so much?

I have the service plan and SC says battery is fine (do they run diagnostics as part of annual service?) and that it is the software adjusting to our driving habits (life to date Wh/mil = 372). Is this true?

I did a quick calculation this morning - charged to 80%, used 3.6 kw and ended at 74%. This implies loss of 0.9 kw (0.8x75 - 0.74x75 - 3.6) which is just a 1.2% loss. Is this calculation correct?

Is there a way of seeing how much actual degradation has occurred?

Thanks!
 
I have a 2 year old MX 75D with 32,000 miles. 90% is 200. I baby the battery - normally charge it to 80%, don't keep it at 100% for more than a couple of hours and have supercharged roughly 40 times. My 80% range has decreased from the high 180s (187ish) shortly after delivery pickup to 177 today. In the first winter it fell into the low-to-mid 180s and stabilized but seems to have fallen over the last several month (in the summer!). I have a friend with a 2 1/2 year old MX 90D with similar driving habits and about 40k miles and his 100% is 250 (vs 257 at delivery) while mine is roughly 220 (vs 237 at delivery and 234 shortly after). I know actual range will be lower, but why has my rated range declined so much?

I have the service plan and SC says battery is fine (do they run diagnostics as part of annual service?) and that it is the software adjusting to our driving habits (life to date Wh/mil = 372). Is this true?

I did a quick calculation this morning - charged to 80%, used 3.6 kw and ended at 74%. This implies loss of 0.9 kw (0.8x75 - 0.74x75 - 3.6) which is just a 1.2% loss. Is this calculation correct?

Is there a way of seeing how much actual degradation has occurred?

Thanks!

You should sign up for TeslaFi as it will track ur lifetime charges and has good battery report ..that said you didn’t mention if u ever tried balancing ? Also what u show as “degradation” is minimal ur looks fine
 
  • Like
Reactions: Fiver
The folks at the SC said the rated mileage does adapt to driving habits and the weather (they said summer may be worse than winter). Can somebody please confirm.

Re: balancing - we do a full charge/balance every two months or so. It didn't change anything last time.

Re: the calculation - the more miles we drive the "greater" the degradation. Does the KW used shown on the dash reflect driving or also vampire drain? overheat protection? battery management?
 
Re: the calculation - the more miles we drive the "greater" the degradation. Does the KW used shown on the dash reflect driving or also vampire drain? overheat protection? battery management?

I'm not 100% on this, but I'm fairly certain it only calculates based on driving. I'm in the "I only plug in when I need to charge" camp and I've vampire drained 40kWh at times with no change to the number.
 
Rated adapts to what the BMS knows about the battery condition (which can be impacted by temperature) but does not adapt to driving style in any meaningful way. Maybe if you switch between cruising at a steady 45 to a track day, because it will make it harder to estimate capacity. But it will not adapt at all based on your driving efficiency. Unless something has changed very recently.

This is what makes this thread useful. Otherwise it would be meaningless.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Helmuth
The folks at the SC said the rated mileage does adapt to driving habits and the weather (they said summer may be worse than winter). Can somebody please confirm.

Honestly, I would avoid this specific Service Center! The rated range (Wh/mile) will never change!
The rated range at 90% will change though, based on degradation over time. Because there is less energy left at 90%...
 
I'm not 100% on this, but I'm fairly certain it only calculates based on driving. I'm in the "I only plug in when I need to charge" camp and I've vampire drained 40kWh at times with no change to the number.

wrong. the formula to calculate rated miles available based on estimated energy does not change. If you have less kwh in your battery, it will display a lower rated miles.
 
wrong. the formula to calculate rated miles available based on estimated energy does not change. If you have less kwh in your battery, it will display a lower rated miles.
I was referring to the kWh used on your trip meter as the poster was asking about. It shows the amount used during your drives, it does not reflect the amount lost to vampire drain while sitting between charges.


You could drive using 40kWh, and then let the car sit and vampire drain an additional 40kWh, but the trip meter will not show the additional power lost to vampire drain, only what was used while the car was moving.
 
I was referring to the kWh used on your trip meter as the poster was asking about. It shows the amount used during your drives, it does not reflect the amount lost to vampire drain while sitting between charges.


You could drive using 40kWh, and then let the car sit and vampire drain an additional 40kWh, but the trip meter will not show the additional power lost to vampire drain, only what was used while the car was moving.

ah i gotcha. then yes you are correct. Vampire drain is not reflected on the usage gauge within the trip meters.