Air Compressor Replacement + Air Line & Air Shocks inspection DIY

Thought I'd post this as it may be helpful for others. Especially if you can DIY and don't want to pay Tesla many £1000's to fix these air compressor/suspension-related issues.

I started to hear my air compressor turning on a lot more than it used to and it was getting a lot noisier than it used to be. At the same time, I started getting 'Air Compressor Disabled, Car Cannot Raise' messages, these increased as the temperature dropped to 0c and below.

The other issue I noticed was that the front left suspension was losing pressure and making the car sag on that front side. Clearly, this air shock or the lines to it were leaking and in turn making the compressor run a huge amount more than it was designed for.

To test the lines and suspension I got some leak detection spray and covered all the lines, connections, pumps and tank with it to see if anything was leaking. It wasn't. On to the shocks and the suspect shock created a nice foam party The other front one is fine as were both the back ones.

Good one:

Bad one:

Next thing to tackle was the Air Compressor itself. I would have loved to rebuild this but I can't find the parts, unfortunately. I found that this pump is used in the Audi Q5, Lamborghini Huracan, Porshe Panamera and probably others. It's made by Wabco with the motor by Lucas. I took it all apart and it was full of rust and most probably the press-fit piston ring shot. I have pics of this dismantled if anyone wants me to post them. I ordered a 3rd party part for £300. It has arrived and I fitted it today. It works well and is super quiet! The replacement air shock won't be with me for another 10 days so it will have to handle being used a little bit more than usual for a few days.

While changing the compressor I found another issue. One of the lines from the pump had been rubbed away by its surroundings. It's probably 0.1mm away from a pinhole! I'll order a new piece of line for this and move it away from the rubbing parts near it.

Compressor location (after I removed it) and 2nd pic circled where the black line had been rubbing against the electrical connector:

You need a few hours to troubleshoot, take things apart, and remove and reinstall the air compressor but it's an easy job. You do have to jack up the car (put it in jack mode) and remove the FR wheel so for anyone attempting this, make sure you use the right safety measures, Jack stands etc.

 

[brainhouston]

Like OP posted, there's desiccant in the compressor, so unless u constantly drive in humid air with leaks in suspension, its fairly safe to just run on Air.
For a data point, my system was empty 12k mi ago, i didn't fill it with nitrogen, it runs just fine on air. No leaks.
I do not hear the compressor run anymore besides initial time after fix, so it must be happening during drives. Guessing Tesla did it for "noise elimination".
I do however hear solenoids activating after i park the car every time and my suspension going up/down...

I've actually never heard of any other company so far, instructing to fill with Nitrogen. Plenty of air ride suspensions out there and they all run on air.

There's a theory out there that when Tesla suspension is lowered, it pumps the "nitrogen" back into reservoir...
I do not know if its true or not and haven't extensively learned how the system works.

 

[kingpleb]

As a fellow UK MX owner can I just say
THANK YOU!
This has made me take on this job as mine had started rattling a few days ago on and off and now has died. I had a strut replaced a few months back but I think the damage from then has just come to the fore and presented itself.

Tesla sell the compressor and the valve block for under £300 including vat. £50-ish of this is the valve block and may not be needed but they do a 14day return policy on certain parts and that's one of them

 

[Zuikkis]

There's a theory out there that when Tesla suspension is lowered, it pumps the "nitrogen" back into reservoir...
I do not know if its true or not and haven't extensively learned how the system works.

What year is your car, does it have EAS or TAS?

EAS (Continental) is exactly like that, it's not a theory. This was explained in detail earlier in this thread:

Air Compressor Replacement + Air Line & Air Shocks inspection DIY

Thought I'd post this as it may be helpful for others. Especially if you can DIY and don't want to pay Tesla many £1000's to fix these air compressor/suspension-related issues. I started to hear my air compressor turning on a lot more than it used to and it was getting a lot noisier than it...

teslamotorsclub.com

So if you don't have leaks, nitrogen should stay there for ages.

Usually air suspensions are "all loss" systems where lowering a car releases air directly to atmosphere, and rising the car requires new air to be pumped in. If there is water in the system, it will probably be blown out when you lower the car.

EAS system recirculates same air so there is no way for water to get out. Desiccant absorbs some but since it is never flushed, it will eventually be "full" and can't take more.

 

[geordi]

My 2016 X has a very similar system to my diesel RV's air suspension - when the compressor runs, after a certain time (usually when it finishes charging up the storage) it runs a short blast backwards through the dryer canister to dry it out. This vents to air and is quite obvious as a loud PSST! for about a half-second.

 

[MobileClimate]

set the system for very high and put just about 300 psi nitrogen on the reservoir valve then put in Jack mode if you got a leak it will show up

 

[hydro]

What year is your car, does it have EAS or TAS?

EAS (Continental) is exactly like that, it's not a theory. This was explained in detail earlier in this thread:

Air Compressor Replacement + Air Line & Air Shocks inspection DIY

Thought I'd post this as it may be helpful for others. Especially if you can DIY and don't want to pay Tesla many £1000's to fix these air compressor/suspension-related issues. I started to hear my air compressor turning on a lot more than it used to and it was getting a lot noisier than it...

teslamotorsclub.com

So if you don't have leaks, nitrogen should stay there for ages.

Usually air suspensions are "all loss" systems where lowering a car releases air directly to atmosphere, and rising the car requires new air to be pumped in. If there is water in the system, it will probably be blown out when you lower the car.

EAS system recirculates same air so there is no way for water to get out. Desiccant absorbs some but since it is never flushed, it will eventually be "full" and can't take more.

May I ask for some more insight?

I changed my compressor with a new Arnott p-3283 this past may with success. I wanted to do the nitrogen fill but no shop around here happen to do these refills. If I were to do it now :

1- is it still possible to do it and purge completely the air and humidity;
2- can I purchase the equipment to do it myself and if so which company sells those?
3- if you do not recommend I purchase the equipment, other than Tesla service centers, where would you look to get it done and how much should I expect to pay?
4- I never used the toolbox, if it is necessary to use it, what is the process to do so?

I must add that since changing it, it works perfectly except for one occasion it did flash the red icon (which disappeared almost immediately) and another time where the car was put to "Very High" and would not come down. A scroll reset did restore the functionality.

Thanks

 

[Zuikkis]

@hydro to be fair, you probably know more than me. I have a leaking system which I haven't yet fixed. Everything works, but last winter the compressor froze a few times and blew a fuse. But now it's summer and I have had zero issues. I will need to fix it before winter, though!

As to purging and refilling, I think all the necessary functions are in the service menu you can access on MCU screen. At least on MCU2 that I have, not sure about MCU1.

 

[kingpleb]

Where is the refill port located please?
Any pictures would be good to have as well.

 

[kingpleb]

A note on the desiccant, I believe it's in the intake elbow part numbers
1027931-00-B
1027931-00-C

Which can be bought over the counter and is separate to the compressor itself.

I bought a unit yesterday from Tesla and it doesn't come with either a replacement due or relay. Replaced my unit in under an hour, took longer to wash the mud and dust out of the mop on my head as the arch liner OMG stores so much muck and detritus ontop of itself. Plastic ones whilst not acoustic, would be very welcome to me for all my arches to help keep them cleaner longer.

 

[hydro]

Where is the refill port located please?
Any pictures would be good to have as well.

On our S, it's on the tank itself (prior to our build, it's somewhere else), under that black cable where the red arrow points.

 

[hydro]

@hydro to be fair, you probably know more than me. I have a leaking system which I haven't yet fixed. Everything works, but last winter the compressor froze a few times and blew a fuse. But now it's summer and I have had zero issues. I will need to fix it before winter, though!

As to purging and refilling, I think all the necessary functions are in the service menu you can access on MCU screen. At least on MCU2 that I have, not sure about MCU1.

ok, thanks, good luck to find that leak. I'm certain you'll find it, just keep looking until you do. Maybe someone else will be able to answer my questions. Cheers

 

[MobileClimate]

I also read somewhere that the center of the weld looking at the end of the reservoir can leak a little pinhole ..wear safety glasses 300 psi is a lot pressure and lines can blow off or just burst...the nitrogen is really there for leak testing ..it does dry out the system ..but its really good for leak testing cause the pressure won't change with temperature and you can watch the psi with a set of air conditioning gauges ..ill post some pics when i replace my galley feed line

 

[brainhouston]

What year is your car, does it have EAS or TAS?

9/2016
TAS i guess based on labels in diag mode

 

[Zuikkis]

9/2016
TAS i guess based on labels in diag mode

No, I think it's still EAS. Just service mode using incorrect naming. @MobileClimate what do you think?

 

[kingpleb]

On our S, it's on the tank itself (prior to our build, it's somewhere else), under that black cable where the red arrow points.

Thanks Hydro, I have an X so if it's on the tank that means the frunk is coming out I guess

 

[MobileClimate]

No, I think it's still EAS. Just service mode using incorrect naming. @MobileClimate what do you think?

According to the Tesla theory of operation, only the model s has the eas system and anything after April 11 2016 has the TAS system

On both Conti Air Suspension (EAS) and Tesla Air Suspension (TAS), the valve block holds electronic solenoid valves that are closed by default. When energized, they open and allow air to flow into the air circuit. The valve block also holds the pressure sensor for both systems.

• For TAS, the valve block holds the air spring valves and the reservoir valve. The exhaust and boost valves are within the compressor assembly.
• For EAS, the valve block holds the air spring valves and the exhaust valve. Reversing valves within the compressor act as the reservoir valve.

 

[MobileClimate]

model x service tip​

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Air suspension air line leak at rear right wheel housing​

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Description

Firmware Details
Steps To Test
Steps To Fix


Effects
Causes

DESCRIPTION​

There is an air suspension air line leak at the rear right wheel housing. This issue might be caused by the airlines being too long and curved outwards, which causes them to rub against the rear right tire and start to leak.

FIRMWARE DETAILS​

None

STEPS TO TEST​

1. Confirm air lines are too long and/or curved outwards:
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   • If this is confirmed, this might be the issue.
2. Confirm the following:
   • Both rear air spring modules operate as designed.
   • Both rear air spring modules do not leak.
   • Valve block does not leak.
3. Activate air compressor by cycling the ride height.
4. Spray leak detector solution on air lines at the rear right wheel housing.
5. Visually inspect for bubbles.

If bubbles are present, then this is the issue.

STEPS TO FIX​

1. Replace the rear air lines according to the appropriate Service Manual procedure:
   • Model X:
     • Air Suspension Lines - Rear (Remove and Replace) - Correction code 31103902
2. Perform leak test.
3. Confirm air suspension system now operates as designed.

Air line leak due to incorrect routing at rear left air spring​

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​

Description

Firmware Details
Steps To Test
Steps To Fix


Effects
Causes

DESCRIPTION​

The routing of the air line from the valve block to the left rear air spring is routed too close to the body. This causes the line to make contact the body and rubs a hole into the line, creating a leak.

FIRMWARE DETAILS​

STEPS TO TEST​

1. Remove the vehicle under shield.
   • See the appropriate Service Manual procedure:
     • Model S:
       • Panel - Aero Shield - Front (Remove and Replace) - Correction code 12030102
       • Panel - Aero Shield - Mid (Remove and Replace) - Correction code 12030502
       • Panel - Diffuser Tray - Rear (Remove and Replace) - Correction code 12030802
     • Model X:
       • Panel - Aero Shield - Front (Remove and Replace) - Correction code 12030102
       • Panel - Aero Shield - Mid (Remove and Replace) - Correction code 12030502
       • Diffuser Panel - Rear (Remove and Replace) - Correction code 12030802
2. Inspect the line routing around the rear subframe on the passenger and driver side.
   • Example of a leak on the line from the valve block to the left rear strut where the line was routed on the right side of vehicle:
     
     
     
     
   • Location of contact that created the leak:
     
     

If the line is damaged, then this is the issue.

STEPS TO FIX​

1. If the line is damaged, replace it according to the appropriate Service Manual procedure:
   • Model S: Line - Air Suspension - Valve Block to LH Front Air Spring (Remove and Replace) - Correction code 31104002
   • Model X: Air Suspension Lines - Front (Remove and Replace) - Correction code 31103802
2. Reroute the line to prevent body contact.
3. Refill and calibrate the air suspension.
4. Confirm air suspension system now operates as designed.

 

[geordi]

My X has been complaining intermittently about a leaking air shock - and I have seen where it appears to be the front right lower than the others under certain conditions. Yesterday though I got a new symptom: An alert that the suspension was disabled entirely and on investigation in service mode, an error that the pump was unable to build pressure at all when energized.

Hmm, that's not great.

Go through a few steps and not much accomplished, so I go for the hard boot option - pull all the power to reset everything. THAT got a result, the pump comes on, and makes a very unhappy grinding / clattering type noise for about 2 seconds before the computer kills it again. Joyful, seems the pump has mechanically come apart. I suspect I will find a blown piston when I pull it apart. STILL have the air leak at the shock, so I guess I need to deal with that now too.

Two questions: Has anyone got any experience with the "A Premium" pump from Amazon? Yeah I know it is 100% Chinesium, but I couldn't find a Wabco unit and I'd rather not pay the Service Center upcharges there. Second question: Are the air shocks at all special / must be replaced in pairs or only the same brand? I wouldn't THINK they are, but just looking for confirmation here. I've found a few options but no real brand names to speak of. Again probably 100% Chinesium.

I'm already dealing with an issue on my sister's S at the moment, so having my X go down right now was really inconvenient. Trying to drive it just a few hundred feet showed me exactly how BAD the ride without air could possibly be - so driving it pretty much anywhere is a non-starter.

 

[MobileClimate]

That’s what the disable air suspension alert is for so that the compressor can cool off when you have an air leak ..while driving down the road the compressor starts running to get psi up to 280 psi it’s not designed for operating with a leak I would go thru the tesla app and order the compressor and you can pick it up and the local service center.

 

[geordi]

That’s what the disable air suspension alert is for so that the compressor can cool off when you have an air leak ..while driving down the road the compressor starts running to get psi up to 280 psi it’s not designed for operating with a leak I would go thru the tesla app and order the compressor and you can pick it up and the local service center.

The compressor is not running anywhere close to continuously. The "leak" is clearly a pinhole - the compressor normally runs when I wake the car up, for around 3-4 seconds and that is it. It is charging up the reservoir, not putting the air into the shock. While parked, I have heard the compressor run maybe 2-3 seconds every 4 hours. Hardly a high duty cycle. The compressor isn't getting hot from this workload. That's why I haven't been worried about the leak until now, b/c it is so slow.