Air Suspension error - EAS_w007

[Paul Dark]

Ok, I'm fixed, my suspension is running.
Here is a rundown of what you want to do:
- Fixed the T connector (Schrader valve fill for tank), it was leaking air. (thats why I was getting red "dead suspension" logo, pump had to pump overime
- Checked relay K11 in fuse box 3 under hood (power coming in to pin 30A) if power comes in go to next buller point, if no power check 40 A fuse that sits on 12v battery fuse block (go back in forum to find the number of that fuse)
ALSO you can swap it with the other similar relay (I used the one that's on the far right, K11 is on far left)
- Check fuse f35 (25A) in fuse box 2 under hood.

NOW, SINCE ALL FUSES AND RELAYS are GOOD, all you have left to check is
- AIR PUMP
- VALVE BLOCK (hoses from air pump go to it)

To check your PUMP, at YOUR OWN RISK, pull K11 out and jump the contacs 30A and 87A with thickest wire possible, but paperclip will do for a second, don't use paperclip for long time - it will melt the plastic.
If the pump ran - it works, one less thing to buy.

VALVE BLOCK
Last thing you got to check is the valve controller that sits not too far from the pump, this one is a lot bit hard to check unless you want to splice wires, I would recommend to buy another one off eBay or even Tesla (if you have extra mulah laying around) and replace it (you will need to lift the car and replace it from the bottom)

 

[Paul Dark]

But what happened to me I think is my VALVE BLOCK and possibly PUMP freaking FROZE!

We drove Tesla from 80F weather in FL to IL (I know we are crazy) and suspension failed in 19F weather.

Let me explain:
Since we had a leak in our air system (the Schrader T valve) original nitrogen that was put in the tank by Tesla is long gone and replaced with HUMID Florida air, since we mostly drove it in HOT weather and HOT air is very humid.

Our suspension failed when we got into 19F weather. Since water goes to the lowest point, which is our valve block, I think it just condensated there and froze.

Today the weather was in 40s so it thawed out and system started working after I resetted the system once again (with the wheel diameter change)

So there you go TESLAS SUSPENSION CAN AND WILL FREEZE if you have humid air in suspension system.

If you air suspension system fails in very cold weather:
- Take the frunk out
- Check for pressure in the tank, if none check for leaks
- Take you hair dryer and warm up the Valve block and pump (be careful, don't melt it)
- Or simply leave vehicle overnight in the garage, with the heater on. If it's not working in the morning - reset the system (by changing wheel size) and pray it works


Also VERY IMPORTANT - system will not raise/lower until you
- Close all doors
- Disconnect from Charger
- Press brake pedal to wake drive rails

 

[Paul Dark]

Fist one is how low our Tesla got.

Second one is the remote diagnosis and the estimate from Tesla. Now think of how much fun it will be loading this on tow truck....

 

[Doanster1]

Nice!! Glad you’re back up and running.
As for moisture, that’s what the desiccant bag is for, but I guess it may be overwhelmed with Florida humidity followed by 19deg weather.

 

[Paul Dark]

If compressor is blowing off it could be the relay contacts are burned in and sticks (you could check that visually, happens a lot) or the compressor filter is regenerating.

Switching from wheel size in menu (i.e. 19->21) will give a very deep reset without disconnecting anything.

About service mode, you do get the password prompt, can enter the code but doesn't happen anything?

The service mode still gets me.
I remember back in the day it was geofenced to SC but that has been removed long ago?
Are there any other conditions that have to be met to get into it?


Also, where do you get fuse and really diagrams? I have acess to Tesla service, but didn't find it last time I looked.

 

[Paul Dark]

Nice!! Glad you’re back up and running.
As for moisture, that’s what the desiccant bag is for, but I guess it may be overwhelmed with Florida humidity followed by 19deg weather.

Are you talking about that pill can looking thing that sits by the front rail? I though it was just an air filter. If this is silica bag - it could actually freeze and plug up the intake....
Well, 100k car should have a better dryer then that, gotta tweet to Elon.

 

[Paul Dark]

If compressor is blowing off it could be the relay contacts are burned in and sticks (you could check that visually, happens a lot) or the compressor filter is regenerating.

Switching from wheel size in menu (i.e. 19->21) will give a very deep reset without disconnecting anything.

About service mode, you do get the password prompt, can enter the code but doesn't happen anything?

I think the blow off sound is to purge the block, which serves couple purposes, one of them is to get rid of moisture(If it's not frozen) since this is the lowest point in the whole air suspension system.
It's not the compressor, but the actual valve block that has that black tube that comes out and its open, it ends not too far from the compressor, pointed down

 

[Gtech]

I think the blow off sound is to purge the block, which serves couple purposes, one of them is to get rid of moisture(If it's not frozen) since this is the lowest point in the whole air suspension system.
It's not the compressor, but the actual valve block that has that black tube that comes out and its open, it ends not too far from the compressor, pointed down

O.k, there is a sort of 'dryer' build-in in the compressor assembly and this regenerates by releasing air into the valve block exhaust. I thought they meant the air compressor filter but that are 2 seperate items:

 

[Gtech]

The service mode still gets me.
I remember back in the day it was geofenced to SC but that has been removed long ago?
Are there any other conditions that have to be met to get into it?


Also, where do you get fuse and really diagrams? I have acess to Tesla service, but didn't find it last time I looked.

Where we live we can access service mode anytime and anywhere and it's not geofenced.
Wiring diagrams I got from Ebay but that was before you could access them in service.tesla.com

 

[Paul Dark]

O.k, there is a sort of 'dryer' build-in in the compressor assembly and this regenerates by releasing air into the valve block exhaust. I thought they meant the air compressor filter but that are 2 seperate items:

At least there is one, I wish they would just vent it out from the compressor without all the moisture traveling down to valve block, where it could freeze.

Where we live we can access service mode anytime and anywhere and it's not geofenced.
Wiring diagrams I got from Ebay but that was before you could access them in service.tesla.com

You are not in US?

 

[Gtech]

At least there is one, I wish they would just vent it out from the compressor without all the moisture traveling down to valve block, where it could freeze.

You are not in US?

Europe (Netherlands)

 

[Paul Dark]

O.k, there is a sort of 'dryer' build-in in the compressor assembly and this regenerates by releasing air into the valve block exhaust. I thought they meant the air compressor filter but that are 2 seperate items:

Btw, I like this diagram, is that from service.tesla?

Europe (Netherlands)

Been all over Europe, but not to Netherlands, I bet it's a cool place.

 

[Gtech]

Btw, I like this diagram, is that from service.tesla?

No, eBay actually. It's called 'theory of operation guides'

 

[Paul Dark]

Hi again fellas,
Got a question on the relay - the one that was used for the air compressor - Durakool DG85D-7021-76-1012-R, these relays are all over the net, but with no -R at the end, -R means that that they have an internal resistor. The only ones with - R are the ones I can buy from China, which I don't think are the adequate quality and could be fake (its always a gamble with China...)
The reason I'm asking is since I swapped the compressor relay with k15 I do not hear my front fans anymore when I supercharge or use a/c. It's either because it's cold and car does not need additional fans, even though I hear coolant pumps pumping or the xcompressor relay that is in k15 slot now is bad (I also remember checking coil resistance and it was ~70 ohm, but needs to be at 90 ohm according to datasheet)

Now, how important is that internal resistor?
Otherwise it's a normal open 4 pin 100A Relay.

When it's 20F out and you supercharge - do any of your front fans run at any point through the charging session?

Where can I get a genuine relay? (Other then Tesla, everything priced in gold there)

 

[Paul Dark]

Also, does anyone have a RELAY diagram?
There are fuse diagrams, but they ommit relays for some reason

 

[Doanster1]

Also, does anyone have a RELAY diagram?
There are fuse diagrams, but they ommit relays for some reason

If you’re talking about location and description, here’s one.

 

[tldickerson]

It this what your looking for?

https://www.newark.com/durakool/dg85d-7021-76-1012-r/automotive-relay-spst-no-12vdc/dp/47Y7418

 

[cyin]

I have the red suspension icon showing up on my 2013 Model S P85+. It turns out my problem and solution is indicated on this thread:
How I fixed my air suspension leak for $1.00

 

[Zuikkis]

But what happened to me I think is my VALVE BLOCK and possibly PUMP freaking FROZE!

I seem to have this issue with my 2016 Model X.

I'm from Finland, and it's frigging cold here.

About a month ago, my car was at service center for a different issue. When driving home from there, I got the "air compression disabled" message. I still had about one hour drive to home, but I drove all the way to home. I stopped a few times to check that car looks OK. Apparently my suspension is holding up the pressure pretty well even without compressor, driving height looked normal even after one hour of driving.

First I thought they have done something wrong in the service center. But since it's so long drive there I figured I'll check it myself first. And yeah I found out that the 40A fuse was blown. I didn't have suitable fuse in stock, but I replaced it with different kind that I fitted with adapter wires. I didn't have 40A fuse so I used 50A... Not recommended but I thought I give it a try.



Anyway, with this fuse, compressor started right away, issue solved. I ordered three fuses of the correct type, and when they arrived I replaced my wire hack with a correct fuse.

But now a month later the fuse blew again! I replaced it with another 40A fuse because I now had a spare. But this fuse blew instantly. Then I took the car to warm garage for a few hours, and this time replaced with my 50A wire fuse and compressor worked again. I'm not sure if it was the 40A vs 50A or the warm garage that fixed it.

My theory is this, there is some water in the system. When car was inside the warm service center, and then I drove it outside to freezing temperatures, water froze in the compressor.

Also the second time it was very cold outside (-16C = 3F) after few days of warmer weather..

When it gets warmer I'll inspect it further. In the meanwhile I'll just buy more fuses. It is very quick to change in MX, even on a side of a road..

 

[Leigh47]

Great to hear!

Hi I wanted to thank you for all the advice contained in the string, I had the same problem, followed the advice and fixed my issue in exactly the same way, for right hand drive cars it is easy to access the hidden 12v fuse from the left hand wheel arch after removing in inner guard. I agree the whom ever is responsible for the fuse layout and location needs to be shot....disgraceful engineering an astonishing lack of foresight.