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Anyone regret buying the Acceleration Boost for their Model Y?

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I purchased the boost, tried it, then opted for the refund. It’s already fast enough in the burps. I did feel the difference in acceleration, but it was not as noticeable as I thought it would be.

@Netmaster22 undoubtedly this will prove to be an unpopular sentiment with many here, but your honesty is appreciated. I've yet to encounter a time when I needed more than the non-AB LR AWD provides. In fact, just yesterday my passenger complained when I lunged forward to quickly to get ahead of someone trying to merge into my lane. It's already "too fast" if I put my foot down! LOL. Seriously though, it's plenty fast, and effortlessly instantaneous.
 
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I tried it for 48 hours and then got a refund. The problem is that 4.8 feels slow after feeling 4.2. I bought it again a few days later.

As I posted in another thread, if the battery isn't real cold, the SoC doesn't make a huge difference. The fastest times I see (no rollout) is 0-60 in ~4.14 seconds. I ran 4.29 with a 77 degree battery at 32%.

From the screen shots below, you can see that I hooked up better at the lower SoC. I'm sure the 0.2 second faster 0-30 was due to road conditions, not the SoC. The higher Soc wasn't faster until 50 MPH when the lower total HP of the lower SoC showed up. In other words, low SoC doesn't seem to impact max torque, just the speed when max HP is reached (lower speed when you hit max HP = lower RPMs when the max torque starts falling off).
Screenshot_20210531-170749.jpg

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Thanks for the data.

I held on to my old gasser for about a month after getting my Y. I thought it was fast (0-60: <6s), but that changed after I got my Y. My old gasser was slow, noisy, and throttle response was glacial. I couldn't get rid of it fast enough.

Then I got the 'Boost. :)

I tried it for 48 hours and then got a refund. The problem is that 4.8 feels slow after feeling 4.2. I bought it again a few days later.

As I posted in another thread, if the battery isn't real cold, the SoC doesn't make a huge difference. The fastest times I see (no rollout) is 0-60 in ~4.14 seconds. I ran 4.29 with a 77 degree battery at 32%.

From the screen shots below, you can see that I hooked up better at the lower SoC. I'm sure the 0.2 second faster 0-30 was due to road conditions, not the SoC. The higher Soc wasn't faster until 50 MPH when the lower total HP of the lower SoC showed up. In other words, low SoC doesn't seem to impact max torque, just the speed when max HP is reached (lower speed when you hit max HP = lower RPMs when the max torque starts falling off).
View attachment 677079
View attachment 677080
 
Question, does the AB offer more power all the time, or is it only in the 0-60 dash? Meaning, is this an overall power increase, or is it only available when you have the accelerator mashed all the way?
I think if you consider the accelerator pedal range on the LR to be "0-10", The LR with PUP is like "0-11".

Maybe we can get Elon to change it to a Spinal Tap reference...
 
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I think if you consider the accelerator pedal range on the LR to be "0-10", The LR with PUP is like "0-11".

Maybe we can get Elon to change it to a Spinal Tap reference...
I believe you meant Acceleration Boost (AB), not performance upgrade package (PUP). PUP is a no cost upgrade that was available, for a time, on the Performance Model 3 and Performance Model Y. PUP added the upgraded wheels, performance suspension and performance brakes to the performance model vehicle. Without PUP you'd have a sleeper configuration performance model vehicle.

Acceleration Boost (AB) is an upgrade (software only upgrade) that can be purchased for the Long Range Model 3, Long Range Model Y after the vehicle has been purchased, delivered. The AB enables more power by engaging the front motor under more driving conditions. The additional power reduces the 0 to 60 MPH time by approximately 0.5 second. The top speed of the vehicle when AB has been purchased does not change. Normal driving mode is replaced by Sport driving mode. Chill driving mode is not affected.
 
I did regret it for a few seconds Friday:
Earlier this year I swapped out the OEM tires for a set of Bridgestone Turanza Quietracs. And they have 6000 miles on them so it was time to rotate my tires. In the process of doing the rotation, I removed passenger side rear tire first. I was astonished to see that I'm already down to the wear bars at 6000 miles!!!!!! I guess this is the hidden cost of the performance upgrade coupled with Low Impulse Control. I'm going to move the fronts to the back and see how fast I can get them down to the wear bars and then I'll have OEM tires put back on the car. Those tires are sitting in a corner of my shop. I think I will then try Chill Mode for a while!!
 
I did regret it for a few seconds Friday:
Earlier this year I swapped out the OEM tires for a set of Bridgestone Turanza Quietracs. And they have 6000 miles on them so it was time to rotate my tires. In the process of doing the rotation, I removed passenger side rear tire first. I was astonished to see that I'm already down to the wear bars at 6000 miles!!!!!! I guess this is the hidden cost of the performance upgrade coupled with Low Impulse Control. I'm going to move the fronts to the back and see how fast I can get them down to the wear bars and then I'll have OEM tires put back on the car. Those tires are sitting in a corner of my shop. I think I will then try Chill Mode for a while!!
Interesting; the AB works by unleashing more power from the front drive motor under more driving conditions. The AB does not change the power produced by the rear drive motor. With AB, total power (and torque) increases when accelerating. You wore out your Model Y's rear tires due to a heavy foot on the go pedal, not due to having the AB. Chill mode is not affected by AB.
 
Interesting; the AB works by unleashing more power from the front drive motor under more driving conditions. The AB does not change the power produced by the rear drive motor. With AB, total power (and torque) increases when accelerating. You wore out your Model Y's rear tires due to a heavy foot on the go pedal, not due to having the AB. Chill mode is not affected by AB.
I was saying exactly that. I was saying that having the performance boost was so great/fun that I couldn't stop pressing the go pedal.
 
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Use your highest reward card to purchase. I do not regret at all :) You can also try for 24hours and refund if ya dont like. Puts me closer to a P for a fraction of the price :)
I think that this is a silly question, but does it affect your range? Obviously if you are always standing on the accelerator then it will, but does it have a normal affect on it? If it doesn't, then why not order the LR and pay for this to get close to the P and do it for about $8K less?
 
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I think that this is a silly question, but does it affect your range? Obviously if you are always standing on the accelerator then it will, but does it have a normal affect on it? If it doesn't, then why not order the LR and pay for this to get close to the P and do it for about $8K less?
If you drive gently or use Chill mode then the AB would not affect your range. Many do purchase the Long Range Model Y and then purchase the AB instead of purchasing the Performance Model Y. The case is compelling to get the Performance Model Y since upgrading to the 20" Induction wheels costs $2,000. Purchasing the AB costs $2,000. You've spent $4,000 to upgrade the Long Range Model Y and still have a less powerful version of the Model Y without the benefit of the performance suspension or the performance brakes. For another $4,000 the Performance Model Y is more powerful, quicker to 60 MPH by at least 0.5 second and has a higher top speed. The Performance Model Y comes with the performance suspension, performance brakes, aluminum driving pedals, a carbon fiber spoiler, badging, and 21" performance tires. Also, the Performance Model Y is the only version of the Model Y that currently comes with the new projector beam headlights.
 
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Count me among those who chose to go with the MY LR instead of the MYP which I originally had on order. I am in the process of charging the car and I just purchased the AB a few minutes ago. I'll see if it was the right choice for me. I couldn't stand the 21" Ubers on the MYP, I am not a fan of the Inductions either as both wheels are way too heavy.

The performance suspension is MEH in my book and if I bought the MYP, I would have had to change it pretty quickly as my wife hated the ride quality. So the way I see it, I saved 8k and only gave up 1/2 second to 60 mph. Since my days are not filled with 0-60 sprints everywhere, I am fine with that. The performance brakes will have no impact on the way I use the car. The wider rotors are the only real upgrade there. I am not overheating my stock brakes and typically drive where regen is my friend. The lack of the track mode was a major oversight.

I can make my MY LR look like the MYP for about $400 bucks if I want to impress people and if that matter to me. While 1/2 second is significant, it will almost never matter to how I drive the car. Maybe good for bragging rights if so inclined but the M3P will run away and hide from the MYP if that is your thing and the M3 LR with AB will probably run heads up. So if I was worried about the 1/2 second, I'd go with the faster, better handling platform rather than putting lipstick on a ...

Not saying the MY is a pig, but compared to the M3, it feels a lot less athletic. So the MY LR seemed more in line with the mission of the MY. Not to say I wasn't interested in the MYP. Like I said, it was the one I had on order first. For me the only real plus of the MYP was the greater thrust. If they had the stealth version still available, or the it came with the track mode like the M3P, then I would have likely stayed with the MYP.

I think this who discussion breaks down along two camps.

MY LR AB - I am >< this close in acceleration to the MYP for only a 2k upgrade. Look at all the money I saved. I am definitely on the correct side of the diminishing returns curve. What is a half second difference anyway? Is it really worth 8k more? I do like that spoiler though. Maybe I can find one on Amzn of Fleabay. I thought I saw some brake caliper covers. We have the same brakes anyway, well the calipers are.

MYP - Yes, you saved 8k over the MYP but you don't get these really cool, but super heavy 21" staggered wheels (that you can't rotate, and a nice little hit on the range too), the nifty spoiler, the cool pedals, the red calipers that mean it MUST be a performance car. Did I mention, it is over 1.3 seconds quicker 0-60 than the MY LR. Well, maybe not totally 1.3 as the time for the MYP doesn't factor in rollout, but at least 1 second quicker, and a whole 1/2 second quicker than the MY LR w/AB. Did I mention it has performance suspension? Hopefully you don't value ride comfort as it rides rock hard like my abs! I can go 155 mph vs your 135. I'll be exercising that speed advantage every day, you betcha. Ignore the Car and Driver road test where the MY LR (without AB) beat the MYP to 130 mph by more than 1/2 second, everyone knows the MYP is faster than the MY LR at any speed.

Before anyone gets wound, up the previous 2 paragraphs are meant in jest. It seems sort of boils down to those 2 approaches. Everyone thinks their position is right. I think they are. I know if I had bought the MYP, my wife would have been pissed off anytime I floored it with her in the car. She hit me when I punched in the M3P. She would have complained about the ride quality as well. So I would have had to swap out wheels and tires which immediately would drive the cost delta to a lot more than 8k. Yes, I would have gotten a better car but even more $$$ sunk into it. TBH, the stock MY LR isn't quick enough. If there hadn't been an AB option, I probably would have figured a way to get my wife on board with the MYP. If I was going to frequently track the car, then the MYP would be more fun, but there are better horses to run at the track.

There are any number of ways to rationalize your choice. If you are happy with it, then great. I am very thankful that we do have choices. Without the AB option, I probably would have been unhappy with the MY LR long term. Who knows I still may want more than it will provide but I hope the AB option will sort of be the Goldilocks version. I'll know in about 2 hours or so when I can take it out after another storm passes us. Enjoy whatever MY you are driving. It is a really fun car in any trim.
 
I was going to edit my previous post and incorporate my initial thoughts about the purchase of AB. I haven't had a chance to make but 2 runs to 60. The first run was 1/2 second quicker 0-60 than my best ever previous run. It is closer to .6 to .7 seconds faster than most of my other runs at an equivalent state of charge. I definitely can't go back to how it was.

I finally don't have that feeling that I wish I had just a little bit more pull. It still is just a touch soft from 0-5 mph but from then on it pulls very nicely. Not so fast as to tick off my wife but fast enough to give our kid a few tummy tickles. So I would say mission accomplished and it should have come from the factory like this. So count me in the camp of saving $8k and pretty happy about it.

I wasn't 100% sure if I could get to where I wanted to be from an acceleration perspective but this splits the gap very nicely. I think the more surprising part is how much better it is pulling at 40 or 50 too. It isn't a night and day difference but I would say it is very noticeable. Looking at the data from my runs it ramps up just a touch quicker than the non AB but by 10 mph the acceleration is carrying more G's all the way to 60. When I look at my data for the MYP, my MYLRAB is pulling very close to what the MYP is at 45 - 60 mph. That was with my SOC at 70% and the MYP at ~95%. The M3P pulls so much harder than either of these 2 cars at 45 mph and up. The MYP can hang with the M3P from about 15-35 but above and below that it is no contest.

If weather permits I'll try and run a few 1/4 miles tomorrow and see how it is pulling on the top end. Pretty amazing how much bang for the buck you get though. It is running pretty close to a late model V8 Camaro SS, or Ford Mustang Bullitt with its 0-60 times and pretty consistent.

If you are the fence, drop the 2 grand and test drive it for 48 hours.
 
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Nice old school build! I built a mid-engine Corvair that was pretty fast. The guy who bought it threw away the small block and detuned a big block he had so it it could be a daily driver - 10.5 daily driver - the new Plaid makes that seem slow.

Nice to see old school that appreciate both 👍
We built a corv-8 as well

sold to a guy in Cali but not before I set a class record at lime rock with it
 
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