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Battery degradation and range

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I have a 2021 long range Y with about 13,000 miles on it. Getting ready for a cross country trip, I charged it to 100% and was surprised to see that my range was only 277 miles. That’s a 15% decline after a little over a year of driving. Normal? Do I need to take it in?
 
Normal; Tesla will tell you that this is within the acceptable range (< 30%) under the 8 year/120k mile battery warranty. You may want to use A Better Route Planner (ABRP) when planning your trip. ABRP (on your phone and also on the web) can help you to plan your charging stops, charging sessions on your trip. You can enter parameters including temperature, speed, and even battery degradation into ABRP.
 
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The range will vary with the battery temperature. If the battery has been kept in a tight charge / discharge range you can try to calibrate the Battery Management System:
  1. Drive the car down to between 5-9%
  2. Let it rest for 3-hours
  3. Charge to 100%
  4. Let it rest for 3-hours
  5. Drive the car down to below 95%
You may need to repeat this 2-3 times.
 
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I have a 2021 long range Y with about 13,000 miles on it. Getting ready for a cross country trip, I charged it to 100% and was surprised to see that my range was only 277 miles. That’s a 15% decline after a little over a year of driving. Normal? Do I need to take it in?
Do you have 19's or 20's? If 20's you can knock 15-20 miles off your starting range estimate, EPA range is with 19's so temper your expectations. Then all the BMS tips come into play. In the end, you've probably lost less than 10% range but your software just doesn't have enough accurate data to convey that. You should see that range increase once you've taken a good long trip. And keep your display on percentage vs miles at all times! Enjoy your trip, much better in the MY vs ICE IMHO... :)
 
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I have a 2021 long range Y with about 13,000 miles on it. Getting ready for a cross country trip, I charged it to 100% and was surprised to see that my range was only 277 miles. That’s a 15% decline after a little over a year of driving. Normal? Do I need to take it in?
I suspect once you start driving it on your road trip it will straighten itself out (self-correct).
 
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I have a 2021 long range Y with about 13,000 miles on it. Getting ready for a cross country trip, I charged it to 100% and was surprised to see that my range was only 277 miles. That’s a 15% decline after a little over a year of driving. Normal? Do I need to take it in?
I'd be worried, sure. No one wants to see so much battery capacity missing so soon. My Y has 11k on it and range is down 10%. I am usually the lowest car on TeslaFi. Now I don't feel so bad. Thanks. ;)
 
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Well, no, it isn't. It's less precise and less informative. But it removes seeing something that is going to upset and worry people. So..."better" in that way.
The estimated range value does not factor speed, elevation changes, wind or road conditions. The estimated range assumes that you achieve the EPA Wh/mile or Wh/km, rarely seen in real world driving.

The SOC display is the analog of a gas gauge. Right now my SOC is ~70% (almost 3/4 full.) In a day or two when I charge the SOC will be ~50% (1/2 full.) Knowing the charging rate I can accurately estimate with a few minutes how long I will need to charge to go from 50% to 80% or 90% SOC. I.e. my home charging station adds 10% to the battery per hour when charging.

If I drive on the highway and observe the SOC drop from 100% to 75% after driving 60 miles then I can estimate that I can drive and additional 180 miles for a total range of ~240 miles. That estimate is good for the current trip including speed, temperature and road conditions. On a different trip I may cover 70 miles using 25% or just 50 miles.

When using route planning tools such as A Better Route Planner (ABRP) you can estimate your remaining battery SOC when arriving at a Supercharger or other charging stop or at your final destination. ABRP provides this information in % SOC not in miles or km.
 
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We've been over both of these.
The estimated range value does not factor speed, elevation changes, wind or road conditions. The estimated range assumes that you achieve the EPA Wh/mile or Wh/km, rarely seen in real world driving.
It IS NOT an estimated range value. It has never been meant for estimating range. It is simply a fuel gauge. It shows the amount of energy in the car.

The SOC display is the analog of a gas gauge
And it has all of the deficiencies and shortcomings of that. 50% of what? of 10 gallons? 20 gallons? 30 gallons? How big is the fuel tank? Is this an S75 or an S100? That 50% means all kinds of different things. It's not scaled to anything.
Right now my SOC is ~70% (almost 3/4 full.) In a day or two when I charge the SOC will be ~50% (1/2 full.) If I drive on the highway for 1 hour and observe the SOC drop from 100% to 75% after driving 60 miles then I can estimate that I can drive and additional 180 miles for a total range of ~240 miles. That estimate is good for the current trip including speed, temperature and road conditions. On the next trip I may cover 70 miles using 25% or just 50 miles.
And the other deficiencies it has are because it's just a fullness ratio. If the battery continues to lose capacity over the years, the % gauge will still show 100%, when it's as full as it can be, regardless of how little energy that is. So each % moves and shifts over time of how much energy it represents. It's not consistent.
 
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We've been over both of these.

It IS NOT an estimated range value. It has never been meant for estimating range. It is simply a fuel gauge. It shows the amount of energy in the car.


And it has all of the deficiencies and shortcomings of that. 50% of what? of 10 gallons? 20 gallons? 30 gallons? How big is the fuel tank? Is this an S75 or an S100? That 50% means all kinds of different things. It's not scaled to anything.

And the other deficiencies it has are because it's just a fullness ratio. If the battery continues to lose capacity over the years, the % gauge will still show 100%, when it's as full as it can be, regardless of how little energy that is. So each % moves and shifts over time of how much energy it represents. It's not consistent.
So given the choice of displaying either estimated range or SOC which would you recommend for most drivers?
 
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Well, no, it isn't. It's less precise and less informative. But it removes seeing something that is going to upset and worry people. So..."better" in that way.
From our previous conversations my understanding is that the estimated range is merely the estimated charge (in kWh) remaining times a fixed constant for the car model, correct?

So the range and SOC display options show the exact same information only differing by a multiplicative constant.

Therefore I assume you are saying the estimated range is more precise simply due to the fact that it has 3 digits rather than 2. Is this correct?
 
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one way to tell how many range you have "really" lost. If the same trip you took when the car was new costs you the same % as that same trip costs you now.....roughly then you can tell the degradation. for example if it took 25% to take the same route to work 6 months ago and 25% today then you haven't lost anything, the software is just calibrating a different guess based on the data it's collected when you convert it to miles. They rejigged the software to give a more accurate estimate which means way less real world range
 
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So given the choice of displaying either estimated range or SOC which would you recommend for most drivers?
It depends on their personality--whether they are uptight or laid back. The rated range is technically and objectively a more specific and informative measurement. But as we see here on the forum, a lot of people are experiencing a totally different kind of car than the gas cars they have had all of their lives, and they are scared and nervous about it and asking about every kind of humming noise or click sound or light or number of any of the displays, and want to run to the service center for every thing that is unfamiliar to them and thinking that their new strange car is broken. Seeing a number with that much resolution shift around some, as it does, frequently feeds into those anxieties, and is not good for some people's stress level. So for some people who are bothered with having to see that, then sure, I would recommend they switch to % to ease their stress level.

From our previous conversations my understanding is that the estimated range is merely the estimated charge (in kWh) remaining times a fixed constant for the car model, correct?
I don't call it "estimated range", because it is not going to make an estimate of your range. It is rated range. But yes, it is a reading of the AMOUNT of energy, scaled by a constant.
So the range and SOC display options show the exact same information only differing by a multiplicative constant.
No. The other is a fullness level.
Let me point this out by taking an example to an extreme so that it shows it really clearly. The rated range is showing how much energy there is. The SOC % is a RATIO of how much energy divided by how much possible energy it thinks the battery can hold. If the battery has gone drastically bad and most of the capacity is unusable, and it can hold very little energy, what would you see when the car is full?

Rated mile version: 23 rated miles = "Holy $#&^! That's not good. I have a problem!"
% version: 100% = "OK, looks fine. Time to go to leave for my trip."

So if the capacity is screwed up or decreased for various reasons, you can't see that in the %.
 
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Ah… now I understand. I didn’t realize the denominator in the SOC ratio changes over time as the battery capacity degrades. Makes sense though.

So the rated miles remaining is clearly a better indicator of energy “in the tank”. Too bad they muddled it up with a scale factor for EPA miles per kWh. I would appreciate just a simple kWh meter. Maybe they will add it as a third tap option some day.

Thanks for the education!
 
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So the rated miles remaining is clearly a better indicator of energy “in the tank”. Too bad they muddled it up with a scale factor for EPA miles per kWh. I would appreciate just a simple kWh meter. Maybe they will add it as a third tap option some day.
Well, yeah, people have been saying that would be good for a while, because that's what it is, so it would address those kinds of complaints. But I understand why they don't show kWh numbers. It's like Grandpa Simpson shouting:
"My car gets 40 rods to the hogshead, and that's the way I likes it!"
No one really understands the relevance of units like rods, hogsheads, or kWh to how far they can drive.

Converting kWh into some other unit that at least can have some relevance that people can get their minds around makes a bit of sense. If people would be willing to picture it as "Granny-style optimistic driving units", then there wouldn't be so much griping about it, but because people want to think of it as literal distance miles according to how THEY drive, and it isn't, then they get upset. I just don't try to think of it as 1 to 1 with my distances. It's ballpark higher, and that's OK.
 
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