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Best 19 tires replacement

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Looking at a switch from 21 to 19.

Going from "0/32" to full tread will make almost any tire a great solution, certainly quitter ;)

Tirerack doesn't have 3+. They show only 3's? In pictures, I can see the 3+ has a similar outward cantilever, by the rim, as does the jump from MXV4 to MXM4 Primacy. Those Primacies were once a $1,000 upgrade option, on Tesla's configurator when GY was the default. They are great tires, IMO. In Primacy, the added sidewall stiffness feels very nice. I currently go from PSS on 21's to x-Ice 19's, and, though smooth and quiet, the sidewall flex and increased slip-angles are a totally different routine.

Right now, I'm considering EV Tuning's eccentric rear camber correction assembly, or just going to full-time 19's. The car is lowered, and eats the insides as things stand.
 
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Tirerack has the Avid Ascend GT's as their #1 tire (out of 53) in the "Grand Touring All Season" category.

Tire change coming for me in about 2.5 months, these are looking more and more tempting. i have now flip flopped about 17 times.
 
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No updates from me, my car has been at the service center for the last ~4 weeks (!). Pick it up tomorrow finally.
I have read online from a few sites that the only knock on the Avid Ascend's has to do with "load" that is to say, they are meant for sedans only (not heavier SUV's and such). However, wouldn't that mean they weren't suitable for the Model S either? I am pretty sure, my S is heavier than my wife's RX350.
 
I have read online from a few sites that the only knock on the Avid Ascend's has to do with "load" that is to say, they are meant for sedans only (not heavier SUV's and such). However, wouldn't that mean they weren't suitable for the Model S either? I am pretty sure, my S is heavier than my wife's RX350.
From what I can tell, Yokohama tires in general are more geared to enthusiast driving. This is fine, but range will be reduced.
 
I have read online from a few sites that the only knock on the Avid Ascend's has to do with "load" that is to say, they are meant for sedans only (not heavier SUV's and such). However, wouldn't that mean they weren't suitable for the Model S either? I am pretty sure, my S is heavier than my wife's RX350.

The Ascend GTs (the GT is important...) have the same load rating as the factory tires, so should be fine.
 
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I have no proof, but I am pretty sure it uses a typical electronic speedo with a moving magnet and sensor somewhere in the drivetrain, but I am not sure if it is calibrated in some way with GPS. I thought I read somewhere that it did, but I can't find the info. Maybe it was someone else just assuming like me as this thing is always connected to the sky.

But then it does have a selection input through the touchscreen for a 19 vs 21 tire as the staggered rear 265 is half an inch taller than the 19's, but what then does someone do who doesn't have the staggered wheels, as the 235/35/21 is almost exactly the same height as the 245/45/19? What difference does the option make if not for circumference?

Anyway here is how the speedo differences will be for a 55 profile 19 inch tire compared to a staggered 21 265 rear: Not a heck of a lot of difference. (4.5%)

Screen Shot 2019-03-10 at 7.14.58 PM.png
 
I have a 2014 S85 (RWD) with just 35K on the clock. OEM tires are Michelin Primacy MXM 245/45R19. Shame on me, I never rotated the wheels once in 5 years. So now I have rear wheels with only about 1mm tread left, while the fronts have 5mm. I'd say my usual driving style is 6-7/10ths. I live in VA.

If this was a RWD front-engined ICE car, I would have expected the fronts to wear more than the rears but there you are. I'd better replace the rears promptly at least and plan to do so. Having read through this entire superb thread I've found scant reference to Continentals and wonder if anyone has experience of these:

CONTINENTAL PURECONTACT LS Grand Touring All-Season
  • Size: 245/45R19 102V XL
  • Eco Focus: EcoPlus+Technology
They come at about the same price as the Cinturato P7s and Michelin Premier A/S which others here have strongly recommended.

About 12 years ago I chose Contis for my Saab 900 (R.I.P.) and found them to be the quietest and smoothest tires, while roadholding was very good too. This was comparing them to Michelin Xs and Pirelli Cinturatos that I had had before that.

Can anyone give me any experiences with these on a Model S? I'd particularly like to know how they stand up re rolling resistance and roadholding.
 
... I guess the load rating of 102 would make the walls stiffer than the OEM rating of 98 so would give a rougher ride?
Unlikely. It's just a couple of strands added to each casing cord making each cord slightly thicker. If you were to remove the belts, the resistance to compression would be negligible, and mostly in the sidewall compound.
 
I'm considering a science experiment to buy the cheapest set of tires available from America's Tire and see how they do:

https://www.americastire.com/buy-tires/gt-radial-champiro-uhp-as/p/37762

I do about 35k miles per year so tires are a constant expense. I blew through the original Goodyears in about 20k, and have had two sets of MXM4s that each went about 30k. The MXM4s are fine - good for the first half of their life but get pretty hard and noisy for the second half.

These are half the price of the MXM4s, so I figure if they're terrible and only go 15k miles before I junk them I haven't really lost anything.

How bad could they really be? ;)
 
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These are half the price of the MXM4s, so I figure if they're terrible and only go 15k miles before I junk them I haven't really lost anything.

How bad could they really be? ;)
Miles and cost should not be the only criteria. You are literally betting your life on your tires, so tires are not the place to go cheap. If you go this route, keep the speeds down and the tire pressure up.

The way the tire industry works is that the top tier tire manufacturers do the development. However, new tire building machines last longer than any particular tires selling life. So what happens is that they sell the now old equipment, and sometimes compound formulas, to the second tier, and the second tier sells to the third tier, etc. This allows price reductions as you travel down the tiers.
 
I'm considering a science experiment to buy the cheapest set of tires available from America's Tire and see how they do:

https://www.americastire.com/buy-tires/gt-radial-champiro-uhp-as/p/37762

I do about 35k miles per year so tires are a constant expense. I blew through the original Goodyears in about 20k, and have had two sets of MXM4s that each went about 30k. The MXM4s are fine - good for the first half of their life but get pretty hard and noisy for the second half.

These are half the price of the MXM4s, so I figure if they're terrible and only go 15k miles before I junk them I haven't really lost anything.

How bad could they really be? ;)

We bought my daughter a used Honda Civic, where someone put on some tires just to sell it. They were Nexen. Could not get those off the car soon enough; they were horrible. Plenty of what looked like good tread, but it is the compound that is important. In the rain they would slide so easily; you could break the front tires loose shifting in third gear; in a 120 horsepower front wheel drive! Not something I would want my daughter experiencing in her first car. Obviously the braking distances were 30% longer than a good tire also.

But I am not trying to talk you out of it. Please do the experiment and let us know how it went!
 
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