I just wanted to give a heads up to the forum about setting up the newest HPWC. I had a licensed electrician with Tesla charger experience (perhaps not gen 3) put this in yesterday but I was puzzled when I got home that they never asked my wife for the wifi password as I told them they would need. I suspected it was not wifi connected and it took 73 minutes on the phone with Tesla support to make that happen. I suspect the electrician tried the commissioning video I sent him and got nowhere but didn't tell me. The Tesla tech was ready to give up well before I was and after spending nearly $68K in the last week on a car and the charger I assumed they would send someone out as he gave up but I was told it would be at my expense to send someone to commission the charger if I had not gotten the electrician through Tesla. When I said I wanted it installed with wifi I was told that was not necessary so long as it was charging. I suggested that maybe I needed it for firmware updates and was told none were available (yet). Anyway, the most useful thing I did to get things going besides manually entering in all passwords and IP addresses was to cut power to the unit for a minute to get a better reset than a quick on/off at the breaker. It would be nice to have some indicator on the unit that it was correctly commisioned and connected to wifi as holding the test button only confirms the amperage. Also, I would have preferred the 24 foot cord of the gen 2 charger as that would be nice if putting the charger on the back wall of a garage instead of the side. I don't have to back in but is close.
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Commisioning the Gen3 HPWC turned into being very tough
- Thread starter jsb15
- Start date
klandersnitrox
Performance Y
Weird,
Not at all my experience. I ordered a new HPWC from Tesla. 3 weeks ago. Came in like 4 days later.
Buddy and I Installed a 60amp breaker in my panel and then ran 6 ought cable to the HPWC. Connected it all up, The followed the Commissioning procedure. All worked on the first shot. It was no big deal....
Sorry you had so much problems
Keith
Not at all my experience. I ordered a new HPWC from Tesla. 3 weeks ago. Came in like 4 days later.
Buddy and I Installed a 60amp breaker in my panel and then ran 6 ought cable to the HPWC. Connected it all up, The followed the Commissioning procedure. All worked on the first shot. It was no big deal....
Sorry you had so much problems
Keith
Seth2020
Member
I do understand that you are frustrated that the installed did not do the commissioning for you.
However, you already noted that you have access to the commissioning instructions/video. It is definitely something you could do yourself. This could have saved you 73 minutes on the phone with Tesla support.
For everyone's benefit, commissioning instructions are here: Installing a Wall Connector
I agree!
However, you already noted that you have access to the commissioning instructions/video. It is definitely something you could do yourself. This could have saved you 73 minutes on the phone with Tesla support.
For everyone's benefit, commissioning instructions are here: Installing a Wall Connector
I agree!
Configuring took less than 5 minutes for me. Installation instructions and videos were very clear.
But indeed if someone else would configure it you can't tell if the wifi setup is correct unless you almost re-do the configuration. And even if you did it yourself, a visual indication that internet connectivity is ok would be helpful.
But indeed if someone else would configure it you can't tell if the wifi setup is correct unless you almost re-do the configuration. And even if you did it yourself, a visual indication that internet connectivity is ok would be helpful.
UncleCreepy
Member
The setup can be a bit confusing. I used my phone to go through the necessary steps. You need to disconnect the phone from your home WiFi, power up the TWC and then connect to the TWC's access point. Once you are connected, you can set up the TWC so that it acts as a client in your home network. I assigned a fixed IP so that I don't have to wonder how to access it. After that, reconnect your phone to the home WiFi and you should be all set.
I agree the 18ft really cuts down options.
If have two 24ft and they both come handy for various use cases using every foot. One being its long enough to reach either bay in my garage.
If have two 24ft and they both come handy for various use cases using every foot. One being its long enough to reach either bay in my garage.
gundarx
Member
The commissioning portion was confusing because of the IKEA-like instructions provided. I spent about an hour stuck in this step but did not need to reset the breaker. The wifi on a non-connected unit will time out after a few minutes but holding down the plug button for a few seconds should re-enable wifi- I think this is described on tesla’s commissioning guide on their site.
There is a QR code on a sticker on that small manual that is unique to your unit and that is the right one to scan to connect to the unit which, IIRC, should populate the SSID and password. BTW, keep this manual with this unique code for future needs should you need to move or sell the unit.
The unit should work fine without this step but if you need to set the max charge amps in case your circuit and line is less than 60A or other limits with your main panel, you’ll want to do this.
There is a QR code on a sticker on that small manual that is unique to your unit and that is the right one to scan to connect to the unit which, IIRC, should populate the SSID and password. BTW, keep this manual with this unique code for future needs should you need to move or sell the unit.
The unit should work fine without this step but if you need to set the max charge amps in case your circuit and line is less than 60A or other limits with your main panel, you’ll want to do this.
What I do in these situations is I take a picture of the QR and save it or print it and put it on the side.
I have read people saying that they put in an IP manually. I assume it is easier, but for those who can manage it, wouldn’t it be better to have a dhcp reservation configured on your router?
spsheridan
Member
For me, connecting over WiFi was a must in order to use the Gen 3 HPWC. After the electrician installed it on my 50A circuit, I plugged the power cable into my car and watched the current start climbing through 40A and approach 50A. Since a 50A circuit can only supply 40A continuous, I quickly disconnected the power cable. I did a little more reading and found that you need to use the app in order to set the max power that the HPWC will deliver and to do that, you need to connect over WiFi. Apparently, if you don't select this setting, the Gen 3 defaults to the maximum power setting. The Gen 2 HPWC didn't behave this way - there is a rotary switch on the inside of the Gen 2 unit that you rotate to the max current level your circuit can deliver.
rxlawdude
Active Member
That's a really dumb default!
curious, why do you think that? I believe it says it must be connected to 60A, so drawing max power(50A) should not be an issue, right?
UncleCreepy
Member
The maximum breaker rating for the gen3 TWC is 60 A, but it doesn't have to be 60 A.
Let's say I have a Nema 14-50 outlet that I want to replace with a TWC. The breaker size and the wiring would still support a maximum of 50 A or 40 A continuously.
While I don't see the 60 A default as a huge problem since the correct setup is part of the installation, I can see where rxlawdude is coming from. If you just put the charger on the wall and skip the setup, it would draw more power than it should.
Again, this shouldn't happen with a professional installation, but having an extra line of defense is never a bad idea. And that is why a rather conservative default would be a safer option. You could still adjust the maximum power to whatever is appropriate in your setup.
Let's say I have a Nema 14-50 outlet that I want to replace with a TWC. The breaker size and the wiring would still support a maximum of 50 A or 40 A continuously.
While I don't see the 60 A default as a huge problem since the correct setup is part of the installation, I can see where rxlawdude is coming from. If you just put the charger on the wall and skip the setup, it would draw more power than it should.
Again, this shouldn't happen with a professional installation, but having an extra line of defense is never a bad idea. And that is why a rather conservative default would be a safer option. You could still adjust the maximum power to whatever is appropriate in your setup.
rxlawdude
Active Member
As UncleCreepy said, for an item that's configurable and designed to go on circuits up to 60A, the default should be the low end of supported amperage settings (i.e., 24A or 32A for safety). Any EVSE which has no physical setup switches to confirm the setting should not default to "wide open."
It's just common sense, no? The only saving grace is that most current (pun!) Teslas draw at most 48A, but still unsafe with 50A or less circuits.
empiredown
Member
I had zero issues with my install, wifi commissioning and use over the last few weeks. The handle mating to the charge port recepticle was pretty tight the first few days, but has definitely loosened up over time.
I have it installed on a 60A circuit and have never seen it go over 48A, thankfully. I have noticed the car does charge itself up to 12kW though, which was great to see.
Hope everyone gets their issues solved and those buying/setting up now have as easy an experience as we have.
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I have it installed on a 60A circuit and have never seen it go over 48A, thankfully. I have noticed the car does charge itself up to 12kW though, which was great to see.
Hope everyone gets their issues solved and those buying/setting up now have as easy an experience as we have.
ẞ
Agree 100%, if that is the case. Dumb to start with “let’s do the thing that could burn down the house”.
I guess I was wrong as I assumed the wall charger *required* a 60A installation, even if it could be dialed down.
Did OP find a solution? (I know it's been 6 months,...) I'm wondering if it's a wifi issue and not a charger issue. The wall connector hosts a WPA2 password-secured, 2.4 GHz, 802.11 Wi-Fi access point network to facilitate commissioning and connecting to other devices. If your WIFI is not compatible, that may be the issue.
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