Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Discussion: Model Y General Waiting room for orders placed After January 2023

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
I don’t believe that’s the way it works. A tax credit comes off your total federal tax liability for the year. It’s not based on what you owe or what your potential refund might be at the end of the year.
This is correct. It comes off your total tax liability for the year. It doesn't matter if you would otherwise get a refund or not.
 
  • Like
Reactions: jbs217 and scionbox
Would you mind clarifying "you need to owe $7,500 in taxes if you want the whole thing"? If I owe Fed less than $7,500 in 2021, and maybe for 2022 when I do my taxes, I won't get the full $7,500? So, I should then adjust my withholdings for 2023 and apply for the 7,500 tax credit next year?
Basically the total tax you owe minus the tax withholding a throughout the year needs to be at least 7.5k to claim the full credit.

Example, you make 200k and owe 25% tax which is 50k. Throughout the year you had federal withholding add up to 40k, so now you owe 10k (50k minus 10k). If you qualify for this credit, you now owe 2.5k (10k minus 7.5k).

The unfavorable way this turns out is your federal withholdings add up 50k, at which point there is no tax owed for the credit to offset. You will not get a refund for 7.5k since it’s a non-refundable credit.

So you should really change your withholding to where you will owe at least 7.5k to claim the full credit. Use your w-4 form to update your witholdings
I agree with @Ray_R . The tax credits has nothing to do with the tax withheld on your paycheck (this is the taxes you prepaid against the "estimated taxes owed").

Taxes owed = tax liabilities on your taxable income.

Non-refundable tax credits example:
#1
If you make $150k/year, after all non-taxable deducdtions (401k, FSA, etc) your taxable income is $100k. That leads to 8.5K tax liabilities (or taxes owed) to the IRS. You had your company withheld $6.5K from your paychecks. Then you will need to cut $2k check to the IRS with your tax return. If you are claiming $7.5K EV credits, you will get a $5.5K (6.5K+($7.5K-$8.5K)) refund instead. You get full $7.5K credits because your tax liabilities (or tax owed) is $8.5K.

#2 Same as above, if your tax liabilities are $4.5K, you will get $6.5K refund ($6.5K + ($4.5K-$4.5K)), the EV credits are reduced to $4.5K which is the amount you owed. The $6.5K was your own money that was withheld on your paychecks.

Refundable tax credits example:
#3
Same as #2 above, IF this is refundable EV credits, you will get $9.5K refund ($6.5K + ($7.5K-$4.5K)), you will still get full $7.5K credits even you owe less than $7.5K.

@thetuk Are you sure to be able to claim the $7.5K credits next year? If so, you can reduce your withholing by updating your W-4. That way, you can get the refund sooner and not in the middle of next year.
 
Last edited:
Hope that’s true because when I was looking into it I read that the credit is nonrefundable; it can lower your tax bill to zero, but it won’t result in a refund.
That is my understanding as well. The credit applies toward your liability, and if your liability is less than the credit they will not give you the difference. Example - if your liability is $5,000 the credit will reduce it to $0 and you will not get the other $2,500. Your tax refund would then depend on how much you paid in taxes throughout the year plus any other credits that are refundable such as the Child Tax Credit.
 
reference for non-refundable tax credit

This is from the IRS website:

A nonrefundable tax credit allows taxpayers to lower their tax liability to zero, but not below zero.

The tax credit is against the tax liability, not how much you owe after withholding.
 
reference for non-refundable tax credit

The quote is correct. There is a difference between the tax owed vs tax due. Tax due is tax owed minus tax withheld on your paychecks (and other applicable credits besides EV credits).
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: jbs217
Basically the total tax you owe minus the tax withholding a throughout the year needs to be at least 7.5k to claim the full credit.

Example, you make 200k and owe 25% tax which is 50k. Throughout the year you had federal withholding add up to 40k, so now you owe 10k (50k minus 10k). If you qualify for this credit, you now owe 2.5k (10k minus 7.5k).

The unfavorable way this turns out is your federal withholdings add up 50k, at which point there is no tax owed for the credit to offset. You will not get a refund for 7.5k since it’s a non-refundable credit.

So you should really change your withholding to where you will owe at least 7.5k to claim the full credit. Use your w-4 form to update your witholdings
This is not correct at all.

That is true.
Here’s an example. You made $100k and $25k was withheld for the feds. Your tax guy does your taxes and determines that your tax liability is $26k, and you still owe the feds $1000 at the end of the year. Now, because you bought a qualifying EV, not only do you not have to pay that $1000, you’ll get a $6500 refund instead.

Another example. You made $40k and the feds withheld $5000. Your tax guy determines your tax liability is $2k, so you should get $3000 back. Your EV purchase in this case gets you $5k back instead.

Please consult with your tax expert to verify.
This is correct.

I agree with @Ray_R . The tax credits has nothing to do with the tax withheld on your paycheck (this is the taxes you prepaid against the "estimated taxes owed").

Taxes owed = tax liabilities on your taxable income.

Non-refundable tax credits example:
#1
If you make $150k/year, after all non-taxable deducdtions (401k, FSA, etc) your taxable income is $100k. That leads to 8.5K tax liabilities (or taxes owed) to the IRS. You had your company withheld $6.5K from your paychecks. Then you will need to cut $2k check to the IRS with your tax return. If you are claiming $7.5K EV credits, you will get a $5.5K (6.5K+($7.5K-$8.5K)) refund instead. You get full $7.5K credits because your tax liabilities (or tax owed) is $8.5K.

#2 Same as above, if your tax liabilities are $4.5K, you will get $6.5K refund ($6.5K + ($4.5K-$4.5K)), the EV credits are reduced to $4.5K which is the amount you owed. The $6.5K was your own money that was withheld on your paychecks.

Refundable tax credits example:
#3
Same as #2 above, IF this is refundable EV credits, you will get $9.5K refund ($6.5K + ($7.5K-$4.5K)), you will still get full $7.5K credits even you owe less than $7.5K.

@thetuk Are you sure to be able to claim the $7.5K credits next year? If so, you can reduce your withholing by updating your W-4. That way, you can get the refund sooner and not in the middle of next year.
This is from the IRS website:

A nonrefundable tax credit allows taxpayers to lower their tax liability to zero, but not below zero.

The tax credit is against the tax liability, not how much you owe after withholding.


What they said.

simply if you are single and have income of over $67k or married and have income of 92k you will get the whole credit. Regardless of how much you withhold. Either you get your withholding back or owe nothing.

This statement does not consider the fact that you may have other dependent credit, education credits and such.
 
This is not correct at all.


This is correct.





What they said.

simply if you are single and have income of over $67k or married and have income of 92k you will get the whole credit. Regardless of how much you withhold. Either you get your withholding back or owe nothing.

This statement does not consider the fact that you may have other dependent credit, education credits and such.
I thought I understood it before. Thanks for clarifying it this way. That makes sense :)
 
  • Like
Reactions: KangThe
I agree with @Ray_R . The tax credits has nothing to do with the tax withheld on your paycheck (this is the taxes you prepaid against the "estimated taxes owed").

Taxes owed = tax liabilities on your taxable income.

Non-refundable tax credits example:
#1
If you make $150k/year, after all non-taxable deducdtions (401k, FSA, etc) your taxable income is $100k. That leads to 8.5K tax liabilities (or taxes owed) to the IRS. You had your company withheld $6.5K from your paychecks. Then you will need to cut $2k check to the IRS with your tax return. If you are claiming $7.5K EV credits, you will get a $5.5K (6.5K+($7.5K-$8.5K)) refund instead. You get full $7.5K credits because your tax liabilities (or tax owed) is $8.5K.

#2 Same as above, if your tax liabilities are $4.5K, you will get $6.5K refund ($6.5K + ($4.5K-$4.5K)), the EV credits are reduced to $4.5K which is the amount you owed. The $6.5K was your own money that was withheld on your paychecks.

Refundable tax credits example:
#3
Same as #2 above, IF this is refundable EV credits, you will get $9.5K refund ($6.5K + ($7.5K-$4.5K)), you will still get full $7.5K credits even you owe less than $7.5K.

@thetuk Are you sure to be able to claim the $7.5K credits next year? If so, you can reduce your withholing by updating your W-4. That way, you can get the refund sooner and not in the middle of next year
@scionbox - according to the IRS website - You can use your modified AGI from the year you take delivery of the vehicle or the year before, whichever is less.

 
The unfavorable way this turns out is your federal withholdings add up 50k, at which point there is no tax owed for the credit to offset. You will not get a refund for 7.5k since it’s a non-refundable credit.
The correction to this would be the following:
$50k taxes owed
$7.5k tax credit.
——————————-
42.5k tax owed after credit
50k withheld on payroll
———————————-
7.5k refund.

The refund is not from the tax credit. The refund is from the excessive withholding.

Better way to understand the “non refundable” credit is like this

5k taxes owed
5k ev tax credit claimed
——————————
0 taxes owed
5k taxes withheld
——————————
5k refund.

In the scenario above you lose out on 2.5k credit because it is no refundable. Non refundable credit will always lower your tax liability as a total. But once your tax liability hits zero, even if you have credits left, you can’t use it.

Withholding, if you have excessive withholding, you will get it back. In both the case above.
 
Basically the total tax you owe minus the tax withholding a throughout the year needs to be at least 7.5k to claim the full credit.

Example, you make 200k and owe 25% tax which is 50k. Throughout the year you had federal withholding add up to 40k, so now you owe 10k (50k minus 10k). If you qualify for this credit, you now owe 2.5k (10k minus 7.5k).

The unfavorable way this turns out is your federal withholdings add up 50k, at which point there is no tax owed for the credit to offset. You will not get a refund for 7.5k since it’s a non-refundable credit.

So you should really change your withholding to where you will owe at least 7.5k to claim the full credit. Use your w-4 form to update your witholdings
Definitely not how this works. Your total tax liability for the year has to be $7500 or more. Doesn’t matter what your withholdings for the year were. Doesn’t matter how much “more” you owe at the end of the year. It’s your total tax bill. You made $75,000. You owe $12,000. Say you paid $12,000 over the year out of your check. Great! Now you get $7500 back as a refund. This has been covered over and over here.
 
You can claim on your 2022 taxes?
No. You can only claim the credit in the year you take the delivery.

You can use prior years income to determine eligibility. For example, in FY2023 you income is 180k and don’t qualify for the tv tax credit but in TFY2022 you income was only $130k then you can use that years income to claim the credit in FY2023. But if you took delivery in 2023, you cannot claim the tax credit in 2022 tax return.