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Discussion: Model Y General Waiting room for orders placed After January 2023

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BUMP Anyone have any ideas on the HP discrepancy?
***I'm sure this has already been discussed thoroughly on the forums\internet and the answer is already out there, but I felt like taking my own guess***

MYP has an upgraded rear motor but the same front motor as the MYLR, whereas MYLR has the same front and rear motor

MYP best case has 512hp, MYP worse case has 455hp
MYLR best case has 482hp, MYLR worse case has 368hp

So lets play around with the combinations:
3D5 front and 3D1 rear = 512hp (best case)
3D5 front and 3D5 rear = 482hp
3D3 front and 3D1 rear = 455hp
3D3 front and 3D5 rear = 425hp
3D3 front and 3D3 rear = 368hp (worse case)


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***I'm sure this has already been discussed thoroughly on the forums\internet and the answer is already out there, but I felt like taking my own guess***

MYP has an upgraded rear motor but the same front motor as the MYLR, whereas MYLR has the same front and rear motor

MYP best case has 512hp, MYP worse case has 455hp
MYLR best case has 482hp, MYLR worse case has 368hp

So lets play around with the combinations:
3D5 front and 3D1 rear = 512hp (best case)
3D5 front and 3D5 rear = 482hp
3D3 front and 3D1 rear = 455hp
3D3 front and 3D5 rear = 425hp
3D3 front and 3D3 rear = 368hp (worse case)


View attachment 906771
View attachment 906773
View attachment 906777
View attachment 906778
Not according to 2021/2022 EPA numbers.

While similar, the Chinese owner’s manual misses one of the motors, the 91 or so kW one.

Non-P (LR and SR AWD) use 91 front, 200 rear.
P uses 133 front, 179 rear.

Makes for an odd looking pairing. But then again, who knows how’s the actual output of all four wheels to the ground is.
 
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My six month premium with GEICO is about $3100. I have 4 cars now including the MYLR. Deductible on 3 is $1000 and the MYLR is $2000. One of the cars belongs to my daughter who’s a relatively new driver. I may wind up shopping around when all is said and done but I’ve been with GEICO for decades.
Geico auto insurance premiums for Tesla vehicles are very well known to be overpriced. They don't like insuring Teslas. Completely understand you have a longstanding relationship with Geico but if you ever decide to entertain switching, you can save a lot of money. One option is Costco auto insurance, which is very fairly priced for Tesla's
 
MYLR white/black no options
OD 1/16 evening PST (1/17 EST according to tesla)
EDD1 Jan-mar
EDD2 (~3-4 days later Feb2-Mar2)
EDD3 came on Feb2 shows Feb12-Feb26
Today is Feb12 and nothing. No VIN no updates.
Location: Bay Area, CA

Anyone else in similar boat?
1/15 OD still no VIN
O/D on 1/14 and still no VIN. All I get are date push backs. Right now sitting at 2/20-3/6. Was at a 10 day Edd window but that didn’t last. So frustrating
OD 1/14, LR/White/White/19/Tow
Bay Area (Fremont Factory pick up)
No VIN
EDD Today-2/24.

I have a hypothesis on the near end of the EDD's. My guess is if you are near an area where they are expecting any other car of your configuration to be delivered to another customer soon, they might set the EDD to as soon as today, just in case they have multiple customers cancel or fall through somehow, they will be able to offer it to you instantly. Whereas if you're not in an area where this could possibly happen, or there are a huge number of people in your area who ordered that config before you, the near end of the EDD range will be further out. If you really want to have a good idea of when your car could come, I think the far end of the EDD range is the one to look at. Don't think of the near side as someone saying "I estimate that your car will be delivered this day", think of it more as "It's not impossible that you could be assigned a car that is ready for delivery on this day."
 
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OD 1/14, LR/White/White/19/Tow
Bay Area (Fremont Factory pick up)
No VIN
EDD Today-2/24.

I have a hypothesis on the near end of the EDD's. My guess is if you are near an area where they are expecting any other car of your configuration to be delivered to another customer soon, they might set the EDD to as soon as today, just in case they have multiple customers cancel or fall through somehow, they will be able to offer it to you instantly. Whereas if you're not in an area where this could possibly happen, or there are a huge number of people in your area who ordered that config before you, the near end of the EDD range will be further out. If you really want to have a good idea of when your car could come, I think the far end of the EDD range is the one to look at. Don't think of the near side as someone saying "I estimate that your car will be delivered this day", think of it more as "It's not impossible that you could be assigned a car that is ready for delivery on this day."
I agree with you. I also noted that for COlorado orders through the spread sheet. Most people here have ordered White Exterior with Black Interior and that is why most have EDDs in March. I ordered on 1/20 and have an EDD of 3/04 to 3/31. The EDD has not moved since assignment and I am expecting my car by mid March just because there are so many people with same config ahead of me in Colorado.
 
Geico auto insurance premiums for Tesla vehicles are very well known to be overpriced. They don't like insuring Teslas. Completely understand you have a longstanding relationship with Geico but if you ever decide to entertain switching, you can save a lot of money. One option is Costco auto insurance, which is very fairly priced for Tesla's
We just dropped GEICO because their rates for 3 Teslas was out of control. We ended up going with USAA for 4 cars, 1 pickup and a camper. Saved $500 every 6 months just by switching. Any other military Tesla owners, give them a call!
 
Got the email/text to schedule delivery (was given Feb 25, 26, 27). I made the mistake of texting my wife to make sure we were free that weekend (she’s a teacher and she didn’t respond until two hours later). I should have just went ahead and booked it when all the time slots were still available on all three days.

Now, the only available time that would work for us would be 5:40 on Monday 2/27 — right in the middle of rush hour traffic.

I already sent a text message to my customer rep asking this, but has anyone had any luck getting them to manually squeeze you in to an earlier time slot? I told them we could do any time on 2/25.
 
Update:
MYLR Midnight Silver Metallic, 19" Gemini
OD 1/14 1:00pm CST
EDD Originally gave Jan-March
EDD changed to Jan 26 - Feb 23 on 1/18
EDD changed to Feb 3- Feb 17 on 1/27
EDD changed to Feb 12-19 and VIN assigned at 8:30 pm 1/29
EDD changed to Feb 6-15 on 2/4
Text received to schedule delivery: 9:00 am (CST), Sunday, 2/5
Delivery Saturday, 2/11
VIN: PF668xxx

Delivery report:

We showed up at the Tesla dealership at our appointed time. We signed one page of paper for MN registration, then we accepted delivery in the app in order to unlock the car. I must admit that this was both easy and scary at the same time. More on this later.

The gaps and paint were nearly perfect on the car. The interior was very clean. All door gaskets were well aligned. There were 4 miles on the odometer. Mud flaps were installed on front wheels, and PPF was installed in front of rear wheels. The Fremont car came with matrix headlights and a rear cargo area shelf. Upon the drive home and after a few more drives at highway speeds, I could detect no whistles from the windows and no pulling from wheels. All in all, again, everything was nearly perfect.

I am reporting the following issues to Tesla, but even if they were ignored, I would be satisfied. As in my pre-delivery post, the rear wheel trims are slightly out of flush. I was able to look at several other Model Y’s, and most had similar trim alignment. So, I am guessing that mine are within “Tesla spec.” I did find one small scratch in the clear coat behind one rear wheel. It looks shallow enough that I could buff it out myself, but I’ll report it anyway. The charge port door opens but is slightly misaligned. In my opinion, all of these are minor issues. Photos are attached below.

More on the payment-delivery process: Although there are a lot of posts insisting on the use of a Cashier’s check, I simply used the Plaid electronic payment process. It was painless. My logic in this process was:

I. I am entering into this transaction with the desire to actually purchase a Tesla, so the ability to withhold payment if the first car was unacceptable seemed unnecessary. If I rejected the first vehicle, I still wanted to pay for and receive a Tesla.

II. Per the “Tesla” is holding your cash” argument while waiting for the next car, my Cashier’s check would have been issued from a checking account that paid 0.5% interest. Withholding payment for, say, two weeks would cost me about $11.50, which is less than the fees associated with issuing the check in the first place. In fact, I recall the Cashier’s check cost was about $35.00, so I come out ahead on costs even waiting 6 weeks for a replacement vehicle.

In the end, the paranoia about the whole delivery process seems overblown. Sure, Tesla should be doing a better job on quality control, but how many horror stories are there? One in 100? One in 1,000? Even fewer? I don’t mean to minimize those who have had a terrible experience, but are these cases skewing all of our expectations?

I’ll finish with a few comments for Tesla (as if they’d ever listen). The terse, minimalistic approach they have implemented, e.g., using an app to replace human interactions, may make things simple, but it also creates an unhealthy environment of “what will go wrong and how will I be screwed by Tesla?” The demand to “Accept” the car even before it is unlocked is just stupid; it produces high anxiety in the customer (justifiably so, given the QC problems with their cars). Tesla should have a way to put the payment in place but hold off on the actual transaction until the buyer is happy with the car. If so, boom, transaction is enabled and car is delivered. If not satisfied, the car is rejected, the payment is not yet made, and a replacement vehicle is found and delivered.

Sorry for the long post and thank you to forum members for the very valuable information provided. I’m checking out of the order/delivery thread but hope to interact again in the ownership experience threads!
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We just dropped GEICO because their rates for 3 Teslas was out of control. We ended up going with USAA for 4 cars, 1 pickup and a camper. Saved $500 every 6 months just by switching. Any other military Tesla owners, give them a call!
I had USAA for a long time but they are more than double what I pay for Progressive. I check every policy renewal and nobody can touch Progressive. I was paying $465 every 6 months for two vehicles on Progressive (full coverage, $500 deductibles, $100k/300k property damage liability). My last attempt at USAA was over $1000 for the same coverage. I now have two teenagers with multiple infractions and it's way more than that and I won't even attempt USAA 😂
 
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Geico auto insurance premiums for Tesla vehicles are very well known to be overpriced. They don't like insuring Teslas. Completely understand you have a longstanding relationship with Geico but if you ever decide to entertain switching, you can save a lot of money. One option is Costco auto insurance, which is very fairly priced for Tesla's
I stayed with AMICA. The price (after presumed 20% dividend refund) was essentially the same as that quoted by Tesla.
 
Update:
MYLR Midnight Silver Metallic, 19" Gemini
OD 1/14 1:00pm CST
EDD Originally gave Jan-March
EDD changed to Jan 26 - Feb 23 on 1/18
EDD changed to Feb 3- Feb 17 on 1/27
EDD changed to Feb 12-19 and VIN assigned at 8:30 pm 1/29
EDD changed to Feb 6-15 on 2/4
Text received to schedule delivery: 9:00 am (CST), Sunday, 2/5
Delivery Saturday, 2/11
VIN: PF668xxx

Delivery report:

We showed up at the Tesla dealership at our appointed time. We signed one page of paper for MN registration, then we accepted delivery in the app in order to unlock the car. I must admit that this was both easy and scary at the same time. More on this later.

The gaps and paint were nearly perfect on the car. The interior was very clean. All door gaskets were well aligned. There were 4 miles on the odometer. Mud flaps were installed on front wheels, and PPF was installed in front of rear wheels. The Fremont car came with matrix headlights and a rear cargo area shelf. Upon the drive home and after a few more drives at highway speeds, I could detect no whistles from the windows and no pulling from wheels. All in all, again, everything was nearly perfect.

I am reporting the following issues to Tesla, but even if they were ignored, I would be satisfied. As in my pre-delivery post, the rear wheel trims are slightly out of flush. I was able to look at several other Model Y’s, and most had similar trim alignment. So, I am guessing that mine are within “Tesla spec.” I did find one small scratch in the clear coat behind one rear wheel. It looks shallow enough that I could buff it out myself, but I’ll report it anyway. The charge port door opens but is slightly misaligned. In my opinion, all of these are minor issues. Photos are attached below.

More on the payment-delivery process: Although there are a lot of posts insisting on the use of a Cashier’s check, I simply used the Plaid electronic payment process. It was painless. My logic in this process was:

I. I am entering into this transaction with the desire to actually purchase a Tesla, so the ability to withhold payment if the first car was unacceptable seemed unnecessary. If I rejected the first vehicle, I still wanted to pay for and receive a Tesla.

II. Per the “Tesla” is holding your cash” argument while waiting for the next car, my Cashier’s check would have been issued from a checking account that paid 0.5% interest. Withholding payment for, say, two weeks would cost me about $11.50, which is less than the fees associated with issuing the check in the first place. In fact, I recall the Cashier’s check cost was about $35.00, so I come out ahead on costs even waiting 6 weeks for a replacement vehicle.

In the end, the paranoia about the whole delivery process seems overblown. Sure, Tesla should be doing a better job on quality control, but how many horror stories are there? One in 100? One in 1,000? Even fewer? I don’t mean to minimize those who have had a terrible experience, but are these cases skewing all of our expectations?

I’ll finish with a few comments for Tesla (as if they’d ever listen). The terse, minimalistic approach they have implemented, e.g., using an app to replace human interactions, may make things simple, but it also creates an unhealthy environment of “what will go wrong and how will I be screwed by Tesla?” The demand to “Accept” the car even before it is unlocked is just stupid; it produces high anxiety in the customer (justifiably so, given the QC problems with their cars). Tesla should have a way to put the payment in place but hold off on the actual transaction until the buyer is happy with the car. If so, boom, transaction is enabled and car is delivered. If not satisfied, the car is rejected, the payment is not yet made, and a replacement vehicle is found and delivered.

Sorry for the long post and thank you to forum members for the very valuable information provided. I’m checking out of the order/delivery thread but hope to interact again in the ownership experience threads!
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thanks for sharing the experience!

congrats on the new car!
 
***I'm sure this has already been discussed thoroughly on the forums\internet and the answer is already out there, but I felt like taking my own guess***

MYP has an upgraded rear motor but the same front motor as the MYLR, whereas MYLR has the same front and rear motor

MYP best case has 512hp, MYP worse case has 455hp
MYLR best case has 482hp, MYLR worse case has 368hp

So lets play around with the combinations:
3D5 front and 3D1 rear = 512hp (best case)
3D5 front and 3D5 rear = 482hp
3D3 front and 3D1 rear = 455hp
3D3 front and 3D5 rear = 425hp
3D3 front and 3D3 rear = 368hp (worse case)


View attachment 906771
View attachment 906773
View attachment 906777
View attachment 906778
Thank You Very much for this info, Very helpful.

That possible range of output is an eye opener depending on how the actual builds went .

I have read the rear motor code is included in part of the VIN. Some members posted they got a higher spec hairpin motor in the rear.

The MYLR in question was ordered on 1/14/23 and may have been "existing" stock when the price drop took place.

Certificate of Origin says 362 HP. This now makes sense to me.

My apologies for posting Off topic.
 
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I did find one small scratch in the clear coat behind one rear wheel. It looks shallow enough that I could buff it out myself, but I’ll report it anyway.
There was a time many years ago, when orange peel seemed to be a standard paint finish........................................

I swear, too much information makes some folks (NOT YOU!) look for goblins and find them when we wouldn't have noticed in the past.
 
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