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DiY HomeLink Install using in car Service Mode - No need for Tesla Service or ToolBox

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IMHO, there is no significant advantage to installing at the OEM location and there is chance of breaking clips/fasteners, USS connectors, etc while removing/replacing the bumper fascia. It takes a lot of time too.

I've simply placed the HL module behind the front bumper crash beam within the frunk. Works the same.
I second this. There is also the chance of scratching the bumper cover paint too. Not worth it.
 
MHO, there is no significant advantage to installing at the OEM location and there is chance of breaking clips/fasteners, USS connectors, etc while removing/replacing the bumper fascia. It takes a lot of time too.

I've simply placed the HL module behind the front bumper crash beam within the frunk. Works the same.

I second this. There is also the chance of scratching the bumper cover paint too. Not worth it.
Agreed.

I couldn't even tell where it was supposed to go. I zip-tied it to the crash bar.
 
@RoBoRaT

I took out the tub this morning to see if I lucked out and the Tesla tech installed the HL module in some easy-to-remove place.

Well, I can't even see it! I assume it's behind the fascia, mounted on the crash beam?
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@RoBoRaT

I took out the tub this morning to see if I lucked out and the Tesla tech installed the HL module in some easy-to-remove place.

Well, I can't even see it! I assume it's behind the fascia, mounted on the crash beam?
View attachment 889601View attachment 889602
Yup, it's likely installed OE way.

The cable is that one leading up (see attached) and the one ur holding is likely the connector for the Pedestrian Warning Sys speaker.

This is how it looks if you peek under:
VideoCapture_20221228-105849.jpg


First I dislodged the HL module from the bracket and tried to wiggle it out from that gap but no dice.
Might want to try to wiggle it out before dismantling the bumper.
 

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@RoBoRaT Good news, successful removal! I did the steps for the fascia removal (except for disconnecting the PWS), and pried the fascia away, leaving just enough gap to see and remove the HL. FYI - that weird bolt can be removed via a 11/32 socket, super simple.

I was able to reassemble everything, nothing broken. However, I won't be installing behind the fascia in my new car. As @Jillmark99 mentions, too much risk of breaking a clip or scratching the paint. Especially by yourself.

@Park2670 since you had the bracket, why didn't you install right by the frunk latch? There are two female bolt holes, and if you install it on the passenger side, the wiring harness will reach. I did a test fit in the picture below.
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Great thread, thx all! New M3 owner and avid diy-er, plus hubby worked at Tesla Fremont for a few years in production (& is a mechanic), so loving all of the diy hacking going on!

Has anyone had success with the Homelink module 1114984-00-B working with a Ghost Controls automatic gate opener? I've reached out to Ghost Controls b/c their system works with "some" Homelink equipped vehicles but wanted to hear from this brain trust.
 
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Just coming back to this this thread to let you know I picked up my '23 Model 3 Performance and installed/programmed my 'old' HomeLink thanks to the instructions and dialog on this thread. My old HomeLink garage code was not saved, I had to set it up as new. Not too big of a deal, but I know some people have trouble programming HomeLinks with finicky openers. Much thanks to @RoBoRaT @colojohn @Park2670 You guys are great!

This still works on 2022.44 however the location of the option changed. Click through the menu until it's found!

Also noted that you must reset the car via a power off. The 2 scroll wheel reset will not show homelink.

Indeed, the "option" location has changed. I forgot to take a pic, but IIRC it is now under the 'battery' icon section.
 
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View attachment 890540Just coming back to this this thread to let you know I picked up my '23 Model 3 Performance and installed/programmed my 'old' HomeLink thanks to the instructions and dialog on this thread. My old HomeLink garage code was not saved, I had to set it up as new. Not too big of a deal, but I know some people have trouble programming HomeLinks with finicky openers. Much thanks to @RoBoRaT @colojohn @Park2670 You guys are great!



Indeed, the "option" location has changed. I forgot to take a pic, but IIRC it is now under the 'battery' icon section.
Nice red M3P with 7500 bones, 10K mi FSC and best of all, retro HomeLink fx. 😊
CONGRATS!
 
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I salvaged my HL from my 2021 MY which was totaled after hitting a deer. Installed it in my new 2023 but, even after updating the configuration per these instructions, the test failed due to lack of comms with the module. Unfortunately I think my HL is toast.
I realized after the fact that the HL module was rattling a bit. So today I took a dremel to it and, sure enough, discovered the I/O header had become separated from the PCB, no doubt due to the (physical) shock of the deer collision. For some odd reason these pins were not soldered, instead just the clips holding the PCB in place also held it to the pins. Fortunately, it was easy to snap back together and, just like that, homelink is up and working. (Sorry for the out-of-focus image.)
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