Nice job! You may need another shot at the top.
May be a dumb question, but is there even a need for the car’s screen to be on?
UCMNDD, this has been a great DIY for those of us that live a bit away from our SC and don't wish to loose the day or two of work to drive the cars to the SC. As people here already said the light has to be really close and for me the LEDs needed to be directly in front of the area I'm treating. My first time doing it I placed it just in the middle of the screen and the Yellowing faded (darkened) for the most part. Then I began to work the outer edge in sections. It only takes me about 5 mins to set it up and then I forget about it for the day.
I'd recommend you bring it in to a service center (if you can) and see if they will fix it with their UV treatment before going for a replacement.hmm sounds like my condition where the yellowing was only getting darker with the UV treatment. Must have been a point of no return with the yellowing. How much was the screen replacement and labor total? Thx
My late 2016 Model S was one of the earlier cars to exhibit the infamous yellow ring on the 17” MCU screen. I had it replaced early on, right before my warranty expired, before the prevalence of the problem was really known. Now about a year and a half later, the replacement screen has once again yellowed and I’m well out of warranty, about to turn 100,000 miles. I’m far from a service center, have no idea if Tesla would charge me for the UV treatment, if they even have the tool, and frankly don’t have the time or interest to fight with their service organization about it.
But hey, it’s just UV light, right? How hard could this be? I did a little research and determined that most adhesives for glass bonding are cured with UV light in the 365-400nm range. After a little poking around on Amazon looking for a reasonably powerful light in that spectrum, I settled on this bad boy for $35:
It arrived the next day and I set out to fashion a rig of sorts (read: stack of cardboard boxes) to position the light in front of the screen and see what happened. I took some basic precautions to cover the dash with towels - didn’t want to risk yellowing the lacquer on the wood dash parts or anything.
Long story short, it’s dark now so hard to know for certain but first impression is that after 4 hours of baking the yellowing is dramatically reduced, but not quite gone. I’m going to examine things in the daylight tomorrow and based on what I see do another 4-6 hours and reassess. As of now I’m quite pleased with the results for $35 and am reasonably certain it will get even better with a little more time.
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Shots of my “rig”:
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I know it’s kinda hard to see the results in the pics, but it looks markedly better in person. Will try and get some better shots tomorrow.
BulldogsRus, perhaps others meant that, but the poster I responded to said, "It’s hard to believe Tesla is taking so long to “create and produce a machine” when a $35 diy solution works just fine". That seems pretty clear he wasn't aware the tool actually existed. If not, it was poorly written.
You also have to put it in the context of the poster having sold his Tesla, still remaining on a Tesla forum, and doesn't seem to appreciate that not all owners detest their Teslas. Yes, there's much to criticize about how Tesla goes about their business, but there's still quite a bit to appreciate about owning a Tesla.
This thread has been very informative and lead me to my own solution for $14.99.
I found this device that has 4 UV bulbs at 365nm:
Many thanks to Blue X90. I bought the above instrument and used it on my screen. I laid the UV light for 12 hrs on each quadrant of the screen. I can confirm that the above instrument does the required job and I don't see the yellow borderline on my screen now. I was waiting for the past 3 months and all SCs around me have their machines not working.