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MYLR wheel/tyre rotation advice

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This.

Don’t forget, even in Scotland, most people live in the low lying areas which don’t get that cold in winter let alone regular snow and ice.

Where I live it’s not uncommon at all to get day time temperatures above 10C in Jan/Feb.

funny, yeh i just looked up glasgow and it doesnt get THAT cold there either compared to lets say germany.
Though I don't think Id be comfortable driving on summertires when its <0C and snowy/icey.
 
funny, yeh i just looked up glasgow and it doesnt get THAT cold there either compared to lets say germany.
Though I don't think Id be comfortable driving on summertires when its <0C and snowy/icey.

Yes, experience means that people in Scotland (not always but mostly) drive to the conditions with their standard tyres ... I was once in Cornwall when there was a brief (and very light) fall of snow and it was instant chaos! They simply don't get much practice.
 
Hello all
Just wondered if anyone had anything to comment on tyre rotation for Model Y LR, done just over 5k miles from new and there is a difference of nearly 1mm between front and rear tread depths. The Tesla manual recommends rotating at 1.5mm difference. Anyone done this themselves, or is it a Service item? I would be quite comfortable doing it myself, I have a trolley jack, pucks and torque wrench. Just wondered if there was anything to look out for specifically, and what happens to the TMPS sensors, do they automatically change position on the display?
This is a really good thread for tire rotation.

 
Hijacking a Tyre thread, but it is a MY LR... and It's probably been asked before, but can anyone explain this?

The Tesla version of the tyre is £80 more, noisier (despite having a sound absorber) and is rated for slower speeds... I was looking at all season tyres, but it looks like I only need the rears so was going to replace just those, more or less like for like, for now, It feels like a classic case of "stick an EV in the name and you can charge 30% more"

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It might just be supply and demand. Just had a quick google and couldn't find those sizes in a lot of the online shops. As per previous posts people will just replace like for like and if there is a shortage of them then prices will go up.
 
Hijacking a Tyre thread, but it is a MY LR... and It's probably been asked before, but can anyone explain this?
Model specific tyres are normally different - compound, construction method, thread pattern/depth may all be different. Typically you see specifically developed tyres for performance vehicles where the manufacturer wants to extract the best performance, or dial out an unfavourable handling characteristic. Price is normally higher to recover specific development costs and/or lower production runs.

When you are getting into mass production vehicles I'm not sure the difference is worth it - especially if you are just driving normally on the road and aren't close to handling limits. The lack of transparency is the biggest issue - it's impossible to know the differences or if it's worth paying the extra.

 
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Hijacking a Tyre thread, but it is a MY LR... and It's probably been asked before, but can anyone explain this?

The Tesla version of the tyre is £80 more, noisier (despite having a sound absorber) and is rated for slower speeds... I was looking at all season tyres, but it looks like I only need the rears so was going to replace just those, more or less like for like, for now, It feels like a classic case of "stick an EV in the name and you can charge 30% more"

View attachment 978039
Yes, does feel like the classic T0 approved means an additional 40% markup, but I'm also wondering if the profile might be different to allow for a rim protector for the gemini alloys. As they have the aero cover they need a bigger lip, that's why 'regular' tyres show a protruding rim on Geminis/Aero
 
When you are getting into mass production vehicles I'm not sure the difference is worth it - especially if you are just driving normally on the road and aren't close to handling limits. The lack of transparency is the biggest issue - it's impossible to know the differences or if it's worth paying the extra.

That was an interesting read of which most I had assumed (without knowing the how) but the interesting take was that in the example given of a BMW version of a Michelin Pilot Sport, whilst the BMW version performed better in the dry, the standard version had the edge in the wet as it was “designed to be a good all-rounder”.
 
Yes, does feel like the classic T0 approved means an additional 40% markup, but I'm also wondering if the profile might be different to allow for a rim protector for the gemini alloys. As they have the aero cover they need a bigger lip, that's why 'regular' tyres show a protruding rim on Geminis/Aero
Good point about the flange, but if that’s no different it does seem the faster rated (for what that’s worth) quieter tyre seems to be the better buy, I imagine the differences in performance between the two is a lot less than say swapping between these and Michelins or Continentals.
 
Hijacking a Tyre thread, but it is a MY LR... and It's probably been asked before, but can anyone explain this?

The Tesla version of the tyre is £80 more, noisier (despite having a sound absorber) and is rated for slower speeds... I was looking at all season tyres, but it looks like I only need the rears so was going to replace just those, more or less like for like, for now, It feels like a classic case of "stick an EV in the name and you can charge 30% more"

View attachment 978039
The tyre noise rating is as measured outside the car and may or may not translate into a higher level inside ... however, I'd be going for the Merc spec, especially at that price difference! I have no problem driving on non Tesla specific tyres so long as they meet the necessary load/speed/sizing requirements.