I put the bricks on top of the trunk and not in the subtrunk. Another thing that I thought about trying was building a trunk cover, like the one that already comes with the car but instead I would use 2 pieces of very heavy wood and cut it to shape (think plywood but better wood and thicker) but when I left the lower trunk cover off the noise is still there. The cover has resonance as well if you tap on it.
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Ear pain/Pressure help
- Thread starter justobuf
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- sound proofing
If it is anything like the Model S, I'm guessing if you sit inside the car while someone takes the side of their closed fist and hits the hatch glass you will clearly hear the Boom, Boom, Boom. I did a bunch of deadening in my S hatch area, but it was only the firm rubber stoppers (cut down from solid rubber dowel) I made that ever made a material difference - similar to what you guys discovered with the PVC stoppers some of you are using. I did, for the record, try PVC back in the day too, but found the solid surface transmitted higher pitched vibration (note: I replaced all the rubber with pvc when I tried that so it acted too much like a solid bushing.).
Oddly enough, I stumbled upon the hatch movement thing when I test drove the car with blue painters tape stretched tightly 360 degrees around the hatch gap. At that time, I thought there might have been some Hemholz <sp> effect going on with air leaking past the gasket. Only later did I realize that tape was just holding the dang hatch more firmly in place. I know it seems like "tape" wouldn't be strong enough to do it, but it has some pretty strong tension when you put enough on there. p.s. I did the test drives at night....sort of embarrassing driving around with tape all over your car.
Oddly enough, I stumbled upon the hatch movement thing when I test drove the car with blue painters tape stretched tightly 360 degrees around the hatch gap. At that time, I thought there might have been some Hemholz <sp> effect going on with air leaking past the gasket. Only later did I realize that tape was just holding the dang hatch more firmly in place. I know it seems like "tape" wouldn't be strong enough to do it, but it has some pretty strong tension when you put enough on there. p.s. I did the test drives at night....sort of embarrassing driving around with tape all over your car.
If it is anything like the Model S, I'm guessing if you sit inside the car while someone takes the side of their closed fist and hits the hatch glass you will clearly hear the Boom, Boom, Boom. I did a bunch of deadening in my S hatch area, but it was only the firm rubber stoppers (cut down from solid rubber dowel) I made that ever made a material difference - similar to what you guys discovered with the PVC stoppers some of you are using. I did, for the record, try PVC back in the day too, but found the solid surface transmitted higher pitched vibration (note: I replaced all the rubber with pvc when I tried that so it acted too much like a solid bushing.).
Oddly enough, I stumbled upon the hatch movement thing when I test drove the car with blue painters tape stretched tightly 360 degrees around the hatch gap. At that time, I thought there might have been some Hemholz <sp> effect going on with air leaking past the gasket. Only later did I realize that tape was just holding the dang hatch more firmly in place. I know it seems like "tape" wouldn't be strong enough to do it, but it has some pretty strong tension when you put enough on there. p.s. I did the test drives at night....sort of embarrassing driving around with tape all over your car.
I saw your post about these dowels, can you post a link and how you made them? I may try this. Thanks.
Received my Model Y on Jan 27th and immediately noticed headaches when driving. Feels mostly centered in forehead. I don't hear any rumbling or helicopter-sound. And I believe I get the beginnings of the head pain even while stationary. For those experienced with the buffeting, does it sound like I'm suffering from that issue? Other theories I've considered are EMF / Battery magnetic fields; or something to do with the HVAC (cabin pressure, or a subsonic frequency from that). I've adjusted the trunk stops previously and it may have helped, without solving the problem completely.
You need to do more than the bump stops in my opinion. I will say this, I have a model 3 as a loaner and there is NO pressure at all. For a split second I considered selling the Y to get a 3 but can't get over how small/low it is. I may even consider an S. I was so amazed on how the 3 did not have any of these issues.
ilovecoffee
Member
Building on this, yes if you're having headaches, it's likely you'll have to do more.
The last couple pages here have some good info (rigid stops, vinyl tubing in the gasket etc)
Also worth mentioning is that some people seem to complain that the HVAC fan at 4 or 5 (can't remember which #) seem to be headache-inducing for some people. I haven't encountered this personally.
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purchasing this and doing the wheel wells soon
spent 20 min talking to manager im going to roll it and brush it on.
I put 255/55r19 quatrac pro tires on my MY. They barely clear my upper control arm. See: 255/50r19 quatrac pro on Gemeni w pics
I have a brand new Model Y with this issue. Tried to reject it within a few hours after they delivered to my house, it was too late. I tried adjusting the four knobs in the trunk at least 10 times and driving each time but no real difference. Lowered tire pressure to 38-39 but no noticeable difference.
Just went to the service center, test drove with a lead technician and he said it's normal (due to very stiff suspension) and how all Model Ys operate, and that it will get better after a few thousand miles. Really disappointing.
Question: did your booming/buffeting get better after 2-3,000 miles on its own?
Just went to the service center, test drove with a lead technician and he said it's normal (due to very stiff suspension) and how all Model Ys operate, and that it will get better after a few thousand miles. Really disappointing.
Question: did your booming/buffeting get better after 2-3,000 miles on its own?
The one tepid suggestion the SC manager had was to see about doing a cargo cover. I am gathering from some of the experienced prior posts here that it is a boomy issue due to the cavernous space and especially bouncing off the single piece of glass roof. I am thinking about getting the ModelYshelf2 and will post before/after spectrum analyzer readings. I like how it is a thick carpet material as opposed to smooth thin layers that most others have. But, it's much more expensive than the others.
I really hope that the glass/big cavern in the back thesis is right because I see most of people went down the trunk modification rabbit hole, where there are several main options to choose from. They may be applicable to certain situations, but a lot of times it only partially helped or not at all. That would be incredibly frustrating spending so much time, money, and potentially messing up the innards of the car.
To recap here is what I've learned in spending way too much time researching and working on this issue instead of enjoying my new car for the first 2 days:
Thesis 1: Buffetting is occurring due to micro movements in the hatch creating a sound or pressure wave in the cabin
Thesis 2: All Model Ys are inherently boomy because of the large interior space plus single piece of all glass on the roof which makes it like an echo chamber.
Hopefully the above will help all future Y owners who encounter this problem and save them the days it took for me to synthesize and track down many wild goose chases.
I really hope that the glass/big cavern in the back thesis is right because I see most of people went down the trunk modification rabbit hole, where there are several main options to choose from. They may be applicable to certain situations, but a lot of times it only partially helped or not at all. That would be incredibly frustrating spending so much time, money, and potentially messing up the innards of the car.
To recap here is what I've learned in spending way too much time researching and working on this issue instead of enjoying my new car for the first 2 days:
Thesis 1: Buffetting is occurring due to micro movements in the hatch creating a sound or pressure wave in the cabin
- Adjust the 4 stops in the trunk
- Change the position of the trunk catch
- Tubing suggestion
- Gundarx method (search this thread)
- Rigid hatch stops
Thesis 2: All Model Ys are inherently boomy because of the large interior space plus single piece of all glass on the roof which makes it like an echo chamber.
- Add weight AND space-occupying items to the trunk, including the side pockets
- Reduce tire pressure to 38-39PSI
- Put an all weather TPE/rubber trunk mat
- Put a ModelYShelf2 specific cargo mat (due to thickness and carpet material it likely is better than all the other mats if you are only concerned about sound)
Hopefully the above will help all future Y owners who encounter this problem and save them the days it took for me to synthesize and track down many wild goose chases.
Thanks for your reply and the tip about the HVAC fan speed. That is a variable I have not tested. I'll run at one fan speed every day and see how they compare.
I'm going to follow that person's guide to make the rigid hatch stops. And I'll try vinyl tubing as well. The thing that throws me off about the buffeting theory is that I have experienced the head pressure even when the car is stationary.
@ajohnson23 I have about 2300 miles on my new Model Y and am still having issues. I was hopeful that a component was experiencing a break-in period, but that isn't conclusive yet. Things did seem to improve for a week in early March (after a month of driving). Then took my car to the shop, got it back, and have been having issues again. I'm thinking I was just getting used to it but my time away from the car erased that.
Have you guys tried this? Those vents are there to relieve pressure from when a door, or the trunk lid were to be closed as the cars of today are so well sealed.
maybe try several different approaches, such as blocking them (partially) or remove the interior trim to help the pressure escape through those better/faster, and so on. (Images copied from previous poster in this thread)
maybe try several different approaches, such as blocking them (partially) or remove the interior trim to help the pressure escape through those better/faster, and so on. (Images copied from previous poster in this thread)
ilovecoffee
Member
It's crossed my mind. Definitely you'd want to help air flow through there.
It seems those interior side buckets impede air flow quite a bit. Removing it might help or it may make it worse by not directing air pressure flows out the vent but into the cabin.
I can't come up with a waterproof creative solution either but I bet if the flaps were made to flap open easier it might help.
I just ran a test using the exact same street trying to maintain 25 mph most of the time with 5 different scenarios. I used db-C based off a recommendation from an audio engineer on this thread previously. No one else was in the car.
Look at the grey line on the left which represents the max. The red was real-time after I had stopped so completely disregard that.
Scenario 1: Tire pressure at 39PSI and modified 4 plugs in the trunk. You can see the low frequency loudness at about -35db
Scenario 2: Added foam gym mats partially overlaid and covering entire trunk. This was to simulate an all-weather rubber mat that hasn't arrived yet. You can see it might be slightly worse but probable takeaway is that it's the same at low frequency.
Scenario 3: Loaded the trunk with a big stroller, a small icebox, and a few other things. Also stuffed thick clothes into both side compartments. Don't see any difference in the chart.
Scenario 4: The same as scenario 3 but this time I put the thick foam gym mats on top of all the stuff in the trunk. You can start seeing a small difference and now it is about -38.
Scenario 5: Same as scenario 4 but this time I took the OEM carpet floor mats and tried to block the section which blocks my rearview. I just wanted to isolate the trunk. It wasn't a complete seal, but you can see further improvement to -40.
I'm no audio engineer but my understanding is each 1 decibel is a 10% improvement. Scenario 5 is not feasible so if we take scenario 4 that is 3db or 30% improvement. Is it still bad? Yes. I just ordered the ModelShelf2 which will probably help a bit further, but it's mainly so I don't have to randomly put gym mats on top of my trunk each time. I will do a recording once I have that. I'm hoping that will get me through to a few thousand miles of driving where Tesla service has told me it should improve a bit further. If it doesn't, I might have to sell the car. Ahh
I feel for you all in this thread. It's such a tricky problem.
I too have trouble with the low frequency boominess of the car. My wife and kids don't even notice. I think it's as simple as some people's ear anatomy being more sensitive to the frequency and pressure.
I have a model 3 as well, and it has no problems with boominess, as others have stated.
I too have trouble with the low frequency boominess of the car. My wife and kids don't even notice. I think it's as simple as some people's ear anatomy being more sensitive to the frequency and pressure.
I have a model 3 as well, and it has no problems with boominess, as others have stated.
