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EV servicing costs

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Get some fall out remover on to them and give it an italian tune.... personally never had this issue with cars left standing outside for months but then again I dont live in Scotland so it might be different up north.
I live on a road that is salted every day throughout the winter, it seems. The road is nicely clear of ice but the cars suffer. Ironically we’ve barely had any snow this year so far in the middle of the Southern Uplands.
When I first noticed the surface corrosion I made a point of reducing regen level and using them more. I also went through several strong braking routines in an effort to improve things… to the extent of making myself feel seriously queezy! After persevering for about 6 months on low regen and occasional firm braking sessions I gave up… still passed the MOT.
 
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Corrosion on the surface isn’t enough to need to replace them, it’s not an MOT fail as it’s just, er, surface corrosion.
Correct, surface corrosion isn't an MOT issue per se, but it will lead to pitting and a reduction in braking surface area. It's a common issue on EVs and hybrids.

This pic is from an iPace for example:
1701765998158.png


On hybrids that switch to mechanical braking below 5 mph it makes a horrible grinding noise when stopping so people get them replaced, on our Teslas they don't use the mechanical brakes that way so we don't suffer the noise, but could go unnoticed if you don't inspect the discs.
 
Is the standard warranty dependent on regular servicing?
No.

Tesla currently recommends the following for the M3:
  • Brake fluid health check every 4 years (replace if necessary)**.
  • A/C desiccant bag replacement every 4* years.
  • Cabin air filter replacement every 2 years (or 3 years for HEPA and carbon filters, if equipped)
  • Clean and lubricate brake calipers every year or 12,500 miles (20,000 km) if in an area where roads are salted during winter.
  • Rotate tires every 6,250 miles (10,000 km) or if tread depth difference is 2/32 in (1.5 mm) or greater, whichever comes first.
*A/C desiccant bag replacement can be extended to 6 years on vehicles manufactured between approximately 2017-2021.

**Heavy brake usage due to towing, mountain descents, or performance driving -- especially for vehicles in hot and humid environments -- may necessitate more frequent brake fluid checks and replacements.


Realistically the only thing they could reject as a warranty claim due to lack of maintenance would be the brake callipers if they are seized up.
 
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> brakes pads/discs

Anyone a feel/experience for when an M3 is likely to need these replaced given regen?

I did 95k miles in first MS. Brakes were not even at advisory. The MS was performance, I'm pretty sure I used the brakes :) more then than I do now ... but a large percentage of my driving is tootling along the motorway, rather than chucking it round bends on rural roads. Also, the MS did at least need brakes for the final < 10MPH stop, not required on MS / MY, so that might mean that M3/MY pads last longer.

James, from Cleevely, posted a video a couple of weeks back about the MGs they use to drive around the country mobile-servicing EVs. The car is 2 years old and done 105K miles. The link, below, is to the bit where he puts the brakes next to a brand new one to show the wear ... unless you can watch it from the beginning :)

YouTube
 
We bought our 2014 MS 3 years ago, at the time it was on around 50 k miles. The previous owner didn't use the car much and spent a lot of time abroad (although it was kept in a warm dry garage attached to the house).
At our first MOT around six months later, it had advice (not a fail) for serious disc corrosion. The tester who I have known / used for many years said it was "pretty bad" and he was amazed that on the rollers the brakes had really good efficiency, as the discs looked horrendous. In many years of playing with cars, I have only changed brake discs if they have worn wafer thin, cracked, or warped. However, when I got home I had a look underneath and decided to order a set of discs and pads. I fitted them myself. The old pads looked hardly worn and may well have been original. I asked the wife (its her car) to check the mirrors and then stand really hard on the brakes, at least once, the first time she drives it each month. When I fitted the winter tyres / wheels a few weeks ago (now on 80 k miles) the discs were still all nice and shiny, so one hard stop a month (along with daily use) appears to be enough to prevent corrosion build up and hopefully caliper seizure.
 
No.

Tesla currently recommends the following for the M3:
  • Brake fluid health check every 4 years (replace if necessary)**.
  • A/C desiccant bag replacement every 4* years.
  • Cabin air filter replacement every 2 years (or 3 years for HEPA and carbon filters, if equipped)
  • Clean and lubricate brake calipers every year or 12,500 miles (20,000 km) if in an area where roads are salted during winter.
  • Rotate tires every 6,250 miles (10,000 km) or if tread depth difference is 2/32 in (1.5 mm) or greater, whichever comes first.
On the last point, has anyone done this via Tesla or another company, and if so how much is it likely to cost?
 
Rotating tyres is mostly an American thing and not really necessary or recommended on our shores.
Instead of wearing your tyres evenly and replacing all 4 at the same time you're kind of spreading the expense by doing it by pairs.

But otherwise, I would say around 40quid for the ~30mins labour at any decent tyre shop.
 
Rotating tyres is mostly an American thing and not really necessary or recommended on our shores.
Instead of wearing your tyres evenly and replacing all 4 at the same time you're kind of spreading the expense by doing it by pairs.

But otherwise, I would say around 40quid for the ~30mins labour at any decent tyre shop.
Thanks.

Has anyone also carried out the brake calipers servicing recommended, and if so any idea of cost?

Do Tesla do this? Any idea how much Tesla charge?
 
Is there a reason why rotating tyres would be desirable in USA and not necessary in EU? (Just curious)
No I'm guessing it's a cultural thing?

Or maybe just because we have MOTs here so they tell you at least once a year if a tyre is becoming illegal. While the rotation habit in the states at least evens the wear so people are less likely to run with bald tyres on the rear before they decide to visit a garage? Dunno...
 
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I remember back in the Scooby days when this was advised (to keep all tyres as close to the same level as possibly) due to the permanent 4 wheel drive system.

It probably doesn't apply so much to our dual motor cars or allot on non permanent 4wd cars but being that the 4wd system as well as the abs kicks in with a reference to wheel rotation its food for thought.
 
Thanks.

Has anyone also carried out the brake calipers servicing recommended, and if so any idea of cost?

Do Tesla do this? Any idea how much Tesla charge?
I had a 2 year service carried on my M3LR by Tesla at Chester
Air filters supply and fit
Brake fluid check - all ok
4 wheel rotation
Brake callipers 4 off services
4 wheel alignment
Windscreen wipers supply and fit
Headlight alignment

£245. 2 hours.
 
I remember back in the Scooby days when this was advised (to keep all tyres as close to the same level as possibly) due to the permanent 4 wheel drive system.

It probably doesn't apply so much to our dual motor cars or allot on non permanent 4wd cars but being that the 4wd system as well as the abs kicks in with a reference to wheel rotation its food for thought.
With a permanent mechanical AWD system it is recommended to have the tyre wear even to stop stress & wear on the centre diff.

You would hope the abs and traction control system on the Tesla can cope with wheels/tyres of slightly different circumferences.
 
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The other, somewhat understandable, reason is to maintain fore/aft grip balance as the tyres wear. If you run the rears low first you are more likely to get oversteer which tends to be harder and more dangerous for the average driver to deal with.
Rotating tyres keeps the grip balance steady across the tyre life, or more appropriately it stays closer to what the car suspension was set up to do even as the tyres get worn to minimums.
 
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The other, somewhat understandable, reason is to maintain fore/aft grip balance as the tyres wear. If you run the rears low first you are more likely to get oversteer which tends to be harder and more dangerous for the average driver to deal with.
Rotating tyres keeps the grip balance steady across the tyre life, or more appropriately it stays closer to what the car suspension was set up to do even as the tyres get worn to minimums.
That sounds plausible... What tyre place do you work for? .... Only joking 😄... It's a good take and interesting👍