Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Firmware 5.8

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
When I park all day unplugged at work it typically gains a mile. It used to lose five miles (I'm still on 5.6). That seems like the vampire load is gone--or at least mostly so.

It's very odd that some cars have a great improvement in vampire losses, while others don't. I wonder if the new firmware updates are just playing with numbers to hide the losses? Has anybody with FW 5.6 or 5.8 charged the car, let it sit, and measured how much energy it took to top back up to the same level?
 
It's very odd that some cars have a great improvement in vampire losses, while others don't. I wonder if the new firmware updates are just playing with numbers to hide the losses? Has anybody with FW 5.6 or 5.8 charged the car, let it sit, and measured how much energy it took to top back up to the same level?

When I park at work it's underground so no outside contact can happen. The "T" shows on the small screen when I head home. At home I have the charging set to finish about the time I head out, so I don't have a good idea of what happens in the evening.
 
How's this for bad wh/mi

y9u5ujas.jpg


Good thing I can charge at work. Otherwise I don't think I could make it 100mi home.
 
It's very odd that some cars have a great improvement in vampire losses, while others don't. I wonder if the new firmware updates are just playing with numbers to hide the losses? Has anybody with FW 5.6 or 5.8 charged the car, let it sit, and measured how much energy it took to top back up to the same level?

I think it has at least partially to do with different people measuring vampire lose differently.

Some people charge the battery, disconnect the charger, and immediately check the kWh value. The then check again say 5 hours later and use the difference as their vampire loss. It might be just the batteries settling after the charge. i.e. the reading just after a charge might be a little off. It is not really lost since it was not really there to begin with.

Other people drive for a while, park, then check the reading. When they check check again after 5 hours they are probably getting a close reading to true vampire losses.

Then again there are many other factors, like temperature, use of the App or visible Tesla, use of Dash cam, fobs too close to the car, etc. People rarely list all the details of their set up when reporting the values. That is the problem with Anecdotal evidence. If the tests are not done under controlled repeatable conditions, it's hard to really tell what is going on.
 
I think it has at least partially to do with different people measuring vampire lose differently.

Some people charge the battery, disconnect the charger, and immediately check the kWh value. The then check again say 5 hours later and use the difference as their vampire loss. It might be just the batteries settling after the charge. i.e. the reading just after a charge might be a little off. It is not really lost since it was not really there to begin with.

Other people drive for a while, park, then check the reading. When they check check again after 5 hours they are probably getting a close reading to true vampire losses.

Then again there are many other factors, like temperature, use of the App or visible Tesla, use of Dash cam, fobs too close to the car, etc. People rarely list all the details of their set up when reporting the values. That is the problem with Anecdotal evidence. If the tests are not done under controlled repeatable conditions, it's hard to really tell what is going on.
That is true, but I'm comparing the same car, with the same routine and close to the same temps. The only difference is the firmware versions.
 
It's possible that the regen while on the freeway is more efficient/easier to modulate with the new settings.

When regen is very strong initially, letting up just a little on the peddle slows the car often more than intended, then you have to press it again to speed up. You lose energy each time you do this.

Some people are very good at feathering the peddle just right (hyper-milers have it down to an art), but I've never been that good at it. In the Volt, I get slightly better mileage on the highway switching to 'D' (even lower than low regen on the Tesla), but in stop and go and street driving switching to 'L' (the Volt's highest regen setting) improves mileage.

This is what I've been hypothesizing in my situation. I set a new record today. 281 Wh/mi (previous record was 288 the first time after 5.8 upgrade). While today there was a little more traffic meaning I was closer to 60-65 mph on the highway vs. 65-70. But the 288 was what I would call normal. And yesterday's 291 was with me driving like an @sshole. My record with 4.5 was 300 Wh/mi.

I'm charging now and will compare the energy consumed according to the car to what my meter tells me to see how it does (or doesn't) match.

Also, as a data point, I turned sleep on last night for the first time. The vampire losses for sitting 9 hours at work in 65 degree weather: 2 miles or rated range. MUCH better than the typical 6-8 miles I'd normally lose.

So far, loving 5.8 (over 4.5).
 
The best part of the 5.8 update... The fact that my clock is no longer 3 minutes behind. After the daylight savings time change, which took a day and a half, my clock was three minutes behind the actual time. Now it's fixed.

also, I was looking at the car tonight, and in standard, the ride height difference is noticeable to a very untrained eye. Granted, if i didn't know to look for it, the car still looks natural, but it doesn't look as sleek. It looks more normal to other cars. The wheels no longer look massive in the wheel well, instead it looks like they fit, haha. The looking like they fit means that the gap between thw tire and the frame looks like most vehicles now, And the opening for the tires looks like it is the "right" size. The other way definitely looked sportier with the gap between the wheels being smaller. The gap between the frame and the ground doesn't look massively different, but less sporty too.

the car looks almost as high as it used to when in high mode (which I guess theoretically it should), which seems weird after getting used to it. I can't imagine how "very high" looks from the outside now,
 
I'm OK with the air suspension thing. Willing to wait 'til January to see how it's resolved.

I AM seeing some unusual behavior with regard to what I guess has to do with sleep mode.
When my car sleeps in the garage (5.8/plugged in/WiFi but no 3G) I can't wake it up with the app, or Visible Tesla without going out to the car and unlocking it/opening the door. Once I do both the app and VT will connect. Is this normal behavior if you have WiFi but no 3G? Not a really big deal but this WOULD make it hard to monitor the car while out of town. Is this behavior the same if I park it at the airport with sleep mode enabled?

Also, the rated miles on the small screen can now disagree with the center screen. I've never seen this before. This morning the center screen (charge screen) shows 153, and the rated miles on the small screen shows 155. Again, not a big deal. Just curious what's going on. Is this all sleep mode related?
 
+1. Can someone with a V box verify 0-60 times on 5.8?

I too am wondering whether 0-60 is slower in 5.8. To me it feels like it is.

Did a very unofficial timing yesterday (video speedometer on flat stretch of road from zero - 60, crop video from precise start to frame showing 60MPH, then measure clip length) and got 4.7 seconds. Repeated and got 4.6.

Anyone have any more reliable times?
 
I think you'd need to get somebody in Florida to do it. My car still feels the same: explosively fast. If I did some instrumented testing it would probably not hit 4.2s 0-60 since a lot of roads are crappy around here and freezing temperatures are not good for traction.

I too am wondering whether 0-60 is slower in 5.8. To me it feels like it is.

Did a very unofficial timing yesterday (video speedometer on flat stretch of road from zero - 60, crop video from precise start to frame showing 60MPH, then measure clip length) and got 4.7 seconds. Repeated and got 4.6.

Anyone have any more reliable times?
 
When I park all day unplugged at work it typically gains a mile. It used to lose five miles (I'm still on 5.6). That seems like the vampire load is gone--or at least mostly so.
(emphasis mine)

What, what?? You have Vampire Gains? Does this always happen even with even temps, or is this only if the ambient temperature (and thus the pack) rises during the day?
 
I am testing my vampire drain right now in 5.8 systematically leaving it plugged in the garage and no driving, and I did wake it up with the app once. It took several minutes for the car to wake up. But I do have a weak 3G signal in the garage. I can't see why it would not wake up with wi-fi, as I have used the app when in Spain through wi-fi there.

I'm OK with the air suspension thing. Willing to wait 'til January to see how it's resolved.

I AM seeing some unusual behavior with regard to what I guess has to do with sleep mode.
When my car sleeps in the garage (5.8/plugged in/WiFi but no 3G) I can't wake it up with the app, or Visible Tesla without going out to the car and unlocking it/opening the door. Once I do both the app and VT will connect. Is this normal behavior if you have WiFi but no 3G? Not a really big deal but this WOULD make it hard to monitor the car while out of town. Is this behavior the same if I park it at the airport with sleep mode enabled?
 
I got my car about 10 days ago, it had 5.0 when I picked it up the first 3 days I was losing about 7 miles a night and the weather never got below 30. Last Sunday 5.8 came through and it is now going a little below 30 and I am losing about 4 miles a night.