Could someone do a screen shot of which screen you are using to quote Wh/mi. I had a friend ask how I use the Energy use graph and ... I really don't. I focus on the miles range reading and really nothing else. Nothing in the owners manual really explains how to interpret the top and bottom of the graph.
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Firmware 5.8
- Thread starter Lloyd
- Start date
Could someone do a screen shot of which screen you are using to quote Wh/mi. I had a friend ask how I use the Energy use graph and ... I really don't. I focus on the miles range reading and really nothing else. Nothing in the owners manual really explains how to interpret the top and bottom of the graph.
Al Sherman
It's about THIS car.
Thanks, but I'm not sure that's definitive. When you checked it from Spain, I assume your car was still receiving the same 3G (although "weak") signal. My garage gets no 3G signal whatsoever. So, I'm kinda still wondering.
Owner
Active Member
I know it was not the exact same situation but I thought I'd throw it out there. There has to be someone out there that doesn't have 3G in their garage.
Hey, just curious, is there anyone else reading this who - like me - is still on 5.6 and has not had 5.8 pushed to them? If so, please do NOT reply to thread - don't want to use up space… just PM me. Thx.
That's a great idea for a quick/cheap way to measure 0-60! I never though of using the video frames. Assuming the speedometer display is updating fast enough, with 60 fps video you have resolution down to 1/60 of a second which should be more than enough for "just for fun" tests.
Did you test this way previously, so you can compare the 5.8 time to that? It's possible the speedometer only updates less than 1/10 of a second, so it might not be accurate when compared to a more "real" measurement.
Interesting.
I have been testing the regen at off ramps/intersections I know quite well.
I have noticed no difference in distance to slow. Actually, possibly a slight decrease in distance needed to slow.
What I have noticed is when I initially release the throttle the deceleration is less abrupt initially. From what I have experienced it is simply a smoother deceleration curve, but maintains the overall energy being reclaimed and slowing the car.
The video camera may not be recording at 60 Hz, and the car display may not be either. Let's say that one of the other of the car display and the camera are updating at 30 Hz. In that case you can have a 1/30s (0.33s) margin of error. It is also possible that the car doesn't calculate speed as fast as the car display updates. The car could calculate speed changes at 15Hz or slower. For human reaction times 4Hz would be more than sufficient.
Kraken
Member
uh... Public math, but 1/3 =0.33333, so 1/30 is about 0.033333 ... Of course there is some other margins of error between combing the refresh rates between the two devices and how accurate the speedometer is.
Yes, oops. I had meant to say 33ms, then realized some might not be familiar with that and so meant to change to seconds. Clearly made an error there, thanks for catching. The point is that a 33ms error is not very significant, but a 250ms (1/4 second) might be more so.
Bugeater
Member
I would love the regen feathering if it were just for dropping out of cruise control! But it's not... I'm looking at the case of an emergency stop. With previous revs of firmware, seeing an emergency stop situation, you would begin rapid deceleration as soon as you lift your foot off the accelerator. Increasing greatly once you hit the brakes. It unquestioningly reduces stopping distance. Now with 5.8 firmware the initial deceleration is greatly delayed. You don't really begin to stop until you hit the brakes. This clearly increases stopping distance. Which in an emergency situation can make all the difference between a close call and an accident!
As for general brake usage -vs- accelerator feathering, I must be real good at feathering because I really like it. I am not against a different accelerator response rate. I have a lead foot anyway. I will push hard enough to get the response I'm after no matter how hard or far I have to push.
+1
In other news, the cruise control increment speeds have been fixed for US cars using metric units. It will now increment in 1 km/h (half) and 5 km/h (full) steps, compared to the previous 1 mph and 6 mph steps.
Yea the new regen is killing my brakes. After a good 700 miles on v5.8 I can firmly state I hate the new regen settings. Not only does it take much longer to kick in full regen, but regen also seems to ramp down at certain speeds too. Only 30kw or less and it's just not enough to stop the car. I have to use the brakes at every single slowdown/stop now or else I'll hit the car in front of me or roll through the intersection.
I have no idea why they changed this but they seriously need to revert that change. Regen absolutely SUCKS now.
The only reason I can think they did this was to mitigate the "brake check" effect on the previous regen where it would regen hard and turn brake lights on even if you briefly let go of the accelerator for a split second.
But man am I ever slamming my brakes on now. This car is HEAVY. I am going to burn through my front disc brakes in no time!
Tesla if you are reading this, what the hell did you do to regen? PLEASE GO BACK TO THE OLD REGEN SETTINGS!
Ditto for the accelerator mapping.
If anything, these mappings and regen settings need to be under our control in a menu. I would prefer regen as "low/normal/high" or perhaps with a slider bar to limit initial max regen to a setting we prefer.
For accelerator mapping should be configurable too. (like the steering control)
Sometimes it's zero, sometimes it's one, and sometimes I forget to look. I'm parked in an underground garage so I doubt the temperature fluctuates more than 1 or 2 C. What I assume happens is that on waking the system does a fresh estimation of the SOC and displays a new number. Measuring a battery's SOC has more to do with art than it does with science.
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Here's the screen shot
I hardly ever use the graph either. The distances that it keeps track of aren't nearly long enough to be useful and it defaults to instant at every start when average is what you really want to see. The energy graph is best used on trips. If your projected miles is lower than the miles remaining then you won't get the miles remaining. If it's more then you're likely okay. It's big problem is that going uphill understates the projected miles and going downhill overstates them. The two lines on graph are rated range (the energy you need to use to get the rated range) and your average.
I agree with you completely.
I have had 5.8 for two days now, and noted:
1. I have yet to see regen stronger that 30 Wh/km, even with full release of the pedal from 100 kph (set to standard).
2. In stop & go traffic that I get essentially no regen slowing when down to 5-6 kph, whereas before it would slow me down nicely to 1 kph (I just had to tap the brakes to come to a full stop).
I need to use the brakes at every stop / light now... (and because it's light use, they squeak!)
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I agree with you completely.
I have had 5.8 for two days now, and noted:
1. I have yet to see regen stronger that 30 Wh/km, even with full release of the pedal from 100 kph (set to standard).
2. In stop & go traffic that I get essentially no regen slowing when down to 5-6 kph, whereas before it would slow me down nicely to 1 kph (I just had to tap the brakes to come to a full stop).
I need to use the brakes at every stop / light now... (and because it's light use, they squeak!)
I found that if you do two hard stops 80 to zero concurrently, that conditions the brakes to keep them from squeaking for awhile.
Thanks Lloyd,
I did that with my 21's this summer, but don't want to wear down my Hakka 7's with hard stops just to get rid of a little squeak...
I'm paranoid about my winter tires... must be a Quebec thing (and winter IS coming!) :biggrin:
I agree with you completely.
I have had 5.8 for two days now, and noted:
1. I have yet to see regen stronger that 30 Wh/km, even with full release of the pedal from 100 kph (set to standard).
2. In stop & go traffic that I get essentially no regen slowing when down to 5-6 kph, whereas before it would slow me down nicely to 1 kph (I just had to tap the brakes to come to a full stop).
I need to use the brakes at every stop / light now... (and because it's light use, they squeak!)
I'm still on 5.6 and my regen doesn't really slow the car below 4mph. After that it's more like I'm coasting and I have to use the brakes to slow further. I haven't driven a car with 5.8 yet but I figured I'd throw that data point out there.
deonb
Active Member
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