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Firmware 6.1

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Usually if you lift your foot off the brake and it starts to roll, then you reapply the brake briskly (as I'm sure you did) then the hill hold will work. In fact that is about 100% with my car (and my previous car). I think we had a discussion about this in another thread but it is somehow related to the amount of pressure you apply in the first place.
I tried this back when the feature first came out. As long as you slam the break hard enough (at the very last moment) it will go into hillhold on a nearly flat stop. (I can't tell on a really flat spot because the car wouldn't move either way)
 
Usually if you lift your foot off the brake and it starts to roll, then you reapply the brake briskly (as I'm sure you did) then the hill hold will work. In fact that is about 100% with my car (and my previous car). I think we had a discussion about this in another thread but it is somehow related to the amount of pressure you apply in the first place.

I tried this back when the feature first came out. As long as you slam the break hard enough (at the very last moment) it will go into hillhold on a nearly flat stop. (I can't tell on a really flat spot because the car wouldn't move either way)

I don't recall what thread I read it in, though I fear I'll be spending time after posting this searching for it now. But some time recently--in the last week or so--someone posted pretty compelling evidence that the pressure with which one steps on the brake pedal has no impact on how the hill hold works.

I'll look for the thread and that post now.

Edit: Found it more easily than I thought I would. This was the post: When, specifically, are hills held when hill holder is ON? - Page 4

I sent an email to Tesla about how this feature works, here is what they said:

Hello Mr. [AmpedRealtor],

Thank you for contacting Tesla Motors Technical Support regarding your question about Hill Start Assist. This feature, which was introduced in firmware version 5.9, is intended to automatically hold the car by maintaining brake pressure when the brake pedal is released, preventing the car from rolling while the driver switches form the brake to the accelerator. Hill Start Assist will release after one second, or when the vehicle begins to accelerate. This function will engage when the car is in Drive and facing uphill, or in Reverse and facing downhill. It is always enabled when the vehicle is in Drive or Reverse and does not need to be activated by the user. The feature engages on grades of more than 4% incline/decline.

I’m not aware, nor was I able to find any information regarding how firmly the brake needs to be depressed in order to engage Hill Start Assist. I would be led to believe that the intention would be for the feature to engage whenever the brake is held, no matter the pressure. If you believe the feature is not working properly and/or would like to have a service technician “test ride” the car to see for themselves, we’d be happy to arrange for that with your local service center.

Feel free to let us know if you have any additional questions.

Best regards,
Eric



In this thread: When, specifically, are hills held when hill holder is ON?
 
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I don't recall what thread I read it in, though I fear I'll be spending time after posting this searching for it now. But some time recently--in the last week or so--someone posted pretty compelling evidence that the pressure with which one steps on the brake pedal has no impact on how the hill hold works.

I'll look for the thread and that post now.

Edit: Found it more easily than I thought I would. This was the post: When, specifically, are hills held when hill holder is ON? - Page 4





In this thread: When, specifically, are hills held when hill holder is ON?

It would appear trivial, modulo existing priorities and caveat my ignorance, to add the same type of hill start hold user request that Toyota does, eg press brake pedal more firmly for 4seconds to manually engage hill start mode. Iirc this was created for the similar reasoning that left for braking was not allowed.
 
I don't recall what thread I read it in, though I fear I'll be spending time after posting this searching for it now. But some time recently--in the last week or so--someone posted pretty compelling evidence that the pressure with which one steps on the brake pedal has no impact on how the hill hold works.

I'll look for the thread and that post now.

Edit: Found it more easily than I thought I would. This was the post: When, specifically, are hills held when hill holder is ON? - Page 4





In this thread: When, specifically, are hills held when hill holder is ON?
I think I also posted my response from a service guy who had followed up with engineering that contradicted this answer. The approach I mentioned above and which dirkhh seems to confirm seems to suggest that the brake pressure does have an impact - bottom line it works for me.
 
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Yes, I'm now on .179. I sat in the car during the 70 minute install process hoping to see something interesting on the screens but all I got was a bunch of clicks and clunks.

If only we knew the access code to get the install log to display on the screen during the update. All we know right now is that it's not 007. Probably. I bet those "clicks and clunks" if interpreted correctly harbor a wealth of drama.
 
On the Hill Hold, according to Tesla's description above, it is always active on grades
greater than 4%, and it ("maintaining brake pressure when the brake pedal is released")
just maintains your (weak or strong) brake pressure for one second after you take your
foot of the brake pedal (perhaps abruptly).

Notice, they said "maintain", not increase the brake pressure.
So, perhaps if you slowly ease off the brake pressure, there will not be enough
"maintained" pressure to keep your car from moving.
 
I took delivery of my car last week and came with .169, I believe. Now my car wants to upgrade to .179 but I've been ignoring it because the car is working flawlessly and I want to let .179 season a bit and see if others have issue before I jump in. Would those of you with .179 say it is safe to move forward? Or should I wait a bit longer and see? I usually do this will all my tech to make sure I review feedback on updates before jumping in. Thanks!
 
I took delivery of my car last week and came with .169, I believe. Now my car wants to upgrade to .179 but I've been ignoring it because the car is working flawlessly and I want to let .179 season a bit and see if others have issue before I jump in. Would those of you with .179 say it is safe to move forward? Or should I wait a bit longer and see? I usually do this will all my tech to make sure I review feedback on updates before jumping in. Thanks!
Given that .167 has at least one known issue (with range mode on) and a pretty serious one at that, and given that the only quirk with .179 reported so far seems to be that a very small number of people had the dreaded "parking sensor" warning, I'd update...
 
Given that .167 has at least one known issue (with range mode on) and a pretty serious one at that, and given that the only quirk with .179 reported so far seems to be that a very small number of people had the dreaded "parking sensor" warning, I'd update...
And the parking sensor warning seems to be a common installation hiccup on a few recent versions, thus I'm guessing most people here wold suggest you should upgrade.
 
I took delivery of my car last week and came with .169, I believe. Now my car wants to upgrade to .179 but I've been ignoring it because the car is working flawlessly and I want to let .179 season a bit and see if others have issue before I jump in. Would those of you with .179 say it is safe to move forward? Or should I wait a bit longer and see? I usually do this will all my tech to make sure I review feedback on updates before jumping in. Thanks!

I am curious as to how you know that the upgrade is for .179. Are you assuming that is the actual version number or have they added something recently in the notifications that tells you the version number of the upgrade before you install it and I just missed it?