-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
Fix your door that won't open
- Thread starter scottm
- Start date
-
- Tags
- Model S User Interface
fsch
Member
In my case, it was also intermittent, with a tendency to work by applying more pressure, until it stopped working at all. But the wires were ok, it was something inside the switch.
"more pressure then worked" is a classic internal wire break symptom, flexing a little harder until the metal wires in the insulation finally ... just ... .touch... enough... to CONTACT!
BUT OTHER THINGS can cause this too. You bring up a good topic of SOMETHING ELSE...
Let's talk about that, if not a broken wire, what else could it be?
Correct positioning and mounting of the switch in the handle is vital for getting enough plunger pressure to actually throw the switch when pressed enough.
A switch with too big a gap between plunger and striking surface, or plunger that doesn't make good contact with the strike (thing that's supposed to be pushing it..) could exhibit same effect as an intermittent or broken wire!
When having "no pull" issue, go in and have a look to see first that the switches are
- not wobbly / loose on their mount
- when put through their motions (handle tug) making good contact with their strike, be quiet and listen for a click
- not broken: check one switch with a leaf spring still has its spring attached (not fallen off) and it's not skewed or jammed
When servicing handles I instinctively do all of the above when visually inspecting them... and forgot to mention all this here for those who don't have the same instincts.
Finally, micro switches themselves can go soft or get dirty inside and stop working... even if they make a clicking sound when plunging it. Use VOM meter and measure good contact is being made on the Normally Open pair of contacts when plunger is pushed. With the switches unplugged from their harness (disconnected from the controller) test for near-zero ohms on the N.O. contacts when switch is plunged.
Usually the dead give-away that it's a broken wire problem is that you'll see the wire dangling, or a semi-firm tug on the wire pulls it right off the switch... (was broken inside the insulation). So this is the obvious case, and you must deal with that first anyway.
If there is no dangling wire... pull out the VOM and test for electrical continuity of the N.O. contacts when closed, and check all the physical alignment issues mentioned above.
Then when reassembling everything, check alignment by putting the assembly through its motions in your hands ... watch for plungers being struck and listen for clicks... before sticking the assy back in the car.
Last edited:
Thank you for the quick reply. I'm having a hard time finding the right switch. Is it possible you could send me a link?
Vip
Member
Vip
Member
comanchepilot
Member
FYI - bad design which causes / guarantees a failure mode, such as these units without big enough or flexible enough wires [ or in the case of a Jeep CJ7 I owned, the wiper pivots failing because of rust in areas designed to trap water] is a design defect which is covered under the Warranty of Fitness for Intended Use. You can't build anything which has a failure mode designed into it by materials selection or design. This warranty is not subject to the limited warranty limitations.
It's the basis of all recalls - you may need to litigate the issue - remember- since it doesn't apply to the warranty its not subject to the arbitration requirement in your purchase agreement.
Tesla seems like a great company but they are rule bound as hell - which is what you would expect from a bunch of engineers.
It's the basis of all recalls - you may need to litigate the issue - remember- since it doesn't apply to the warranty its not subject to the arbitration requirement in your purchase agreement.
Tesla seems like a great company but they are rule bound as hell - which is what you would expect from a bunch of engineers.
ASQ10410 Panasonic Electric Works | Switches | DigiKey
I purchased the pre-wired harness directly from Tesla rather than dealing with soldering of wires. Harness was about $35
bareyb
Active Member
Very timely... I have that exact issue right now. Fortunately I bought the Extended Warranty literally two days before it happened, so I should be covered. This makes 3 door handles now. Anyone have a guess how much a new handle would cost if we had to pay for it out of pocket?
Bighorn
Top Supercharger
There's not been a clear answer to that. My last broken handle was re-built as goodwill out of warranty. The re-build cost would probably be similar to the $200 extended warranty deductible. Someone recently said they were refused a re-build and had to buy a new unit for slightly more than $500 installed. Early fears were that it was a $1000 replacement. I will soon be finding out as I had another paddle gear break yesterday and I will get it fixed at the first service center that can take me as I head out on a major road trip. If I have to pay $500 for a broken 5 cent part, I'll not be pleased.
fsch
Member
About a year and a half ago, I payed Tesla $1300 Canadian (which at the time was about $1000US) for a replacement. Driver's door, not practical, which is why I went to Tesla instead of investigating. This was the 7th handle replacement on the car.
I did the 8th replacement myself for $4.18 (Digikey) and 3 hours of my time, thanks to this thread!
But I agree that the repair might be more reliable with a microswitch bought from Tesla, which is already soldered and covered.
Bighorn
Top Supercharger
Ranger met me at a supercharger stop at the beginning of a big trip this morning. His plan was to replace the unit and charge a $200 deductible even though I’m out of warranty. The wrong handle got sent along so he rebuilt mine by replacing the broken paddle gear and the sensors which were showing signs of cracking. This was goodwilled again. Happy cAmper!
Similar threads
