Full Size Spare Tire - everything I learned after 3 months of research

[stopcrazypp]

Question that hasn't arisen yet (to my knowledge):
If a spare wheel is made up, (ready for the inevitable puncture that will now, not come along while you have a spare in the boot!), what is the general concensus of opinion about installing it with a new TPMS? I guess these are not cheap! I also guess that if a normal tyre valve was fitted, then you would have to drive continuously with the tpms caption illuminated until you swapped the spare back to the orginal (post repair). Is that a problem?

As long as the TPMS is in the car and the wheel it is installed on has enough air, it won't pop up the error, although it might get confused about what wheel it is on. So as long as the original wheel with TPMS is in the trunk (and has air) it will be fine even while you are using the spare. You would only temporarily be dealing with it when the wheel has no air and is being replaced.

 

[zoros]

Thanks.
I have eventually found a thread that discusses the TPMS issue in detail. Basically it doesn't make sense to install a tpms in a spare for the duration it is being used in anger. Live with the small caption until the punctured tyre gets fixed and put back into service. Spare then goes back into boot, ready for its next call to duty!

 

[zoros]

So my spare tyre kit now consists of:
1. Second hand Tesla M3 (OEM) alloy wheel - £99. [Tesla confirms the oem numbers ending in A,B or C are all interchangeable].
2. Budget (new) tyre with correct load rating for sidewall (98W or Y in UK).- £70.
3. Low profile 3 tonne scissor jack (stronger than 2 tonne jack) with ratchet handle and bag - £30.
4. 2nd scissor jack (to jack up other end of car if punctured end of car is too low to get a jack under vehicle). £15.
5. Telescopic handled wrench (21mm). £7.
6. 1 x chock to prevent car from moving when on jack(s). £3.

Miscellaneous: gloves. plywood square to act as base (for soft/uneven ground).
Total cost (UK): £225.

Why am I carrying a full sized spare?
1. UK Tesla RA tell me they don't change wheels on the side of the road. They flatbed you to a destination of your choice (up to 50 miles). Basically that is either a garage or home.
2. Tesla RA drops you off at destination STILL with puncture. If at home, you still need a spare. If at garage - it may be closed/out of hours/too far away. What then? Taxi? Hang around for hours? Pay full price for a "special tesla tyre" because you have no choice?
3. I may be travelling to an important meeting; to the airport for a flight; catching a ferry; on holiday. No spare - no continue!
4. A space saver limits me to 50mph. Not clever on a motorway! Not clever if I have hundreds of miles to complete my journey.

My wife reminds me that if she is driving and experiences a puncture - she will not be changing the wheel. That's fine. TRA simply brings her home and I will do it on my drive.
Failing that, we have an alternative breakdown service and they have stated they will change a tyre on the side of the road and use our spare.

In summary - for the sake of £225, I have peace of mind. And the beauty of it all is that when I sell the car - the spare wheel kit will be sold separately (either to the new buyer or online). I expect it to sell quickly because the nearest equivalent in the UK doesn't exist.
(a) Only space saver kits exist.
(b) The cheapest of these is £200 without 2nd jack, torque wrench or chock.

 

[MuchT3sla]

So my spare tyre kit now consists of:
1. Second hand Tesla M3 (OEM) alloy wheel - £99. [Tesla confirms the oem numbers ending in A,B or C are all interchangeable].
2. Budget (new) tyre with correct load rating for sidewall (98W or Y in UK).- £70.
3. Low profile 3 tonne scissor jack (stronger than 2 tonne jack) with ratchet handle and bag - £30.
4. 2nd scissor jack (to jack up other end of car if punctured end of car is too low to get a jack under vehicle). £15.
5. Telescopic handled wrench (21mm). £7.
6. 1 x chock to prevent car from moving when on jack(s). £3.

Miscellaneous: gloves. plywood square to act as base (for soft/uneven ground).
Total cost (UK): £225.

Why am I carrying a full sized spare?
1. UK Tesla RA tell me they don't change wheels on the side of the road. They flatbed you to a destination of your choice (up to 50 miles). Basically that is either a garage or home.
2. Tesla RA drops you off at destination STILL with puncture. If at home, you still need a spare. If at garage - it may be closed/out of hours/too far away. What then? Taxi? Hang around for hours? Pay full price for a "special tesla tyre" because you have no choice?
3. I may be travelling to an important meeting; to the airport for a flight; catching a ferry; on holiday. No spare - no continue!
4. A space saver limits me to 50mph. Not clever on a motorway! Not clever if I have hundreds of miles to complete my journey.

My wife reminds me that if she is driving and experiences a puncture - she will not be changing the wheel. That's fine. TRA simply brings her home and I will do it on my drive.
Failing that, we have an alternative breakdown service and they have stated they will change a tyre on the side of the road and use our spare.

In summary - for the sake of £225, I have peace of mind. And the beauty of it all is that when I sell the car - the spare wheel kit will be sold separately (either to the new buyer or online). I expect it to sell quickly because the nearest equivalent in the UK doesn't exist.
(a) Only space saver kits exist.
(b) The cheapest of these is £200 without 2nd jack, torque wrench or chock.

I don't suppose you have a link to this jack?

 

[Mike500]

Most jacks like the $22 Torin Big Red sold on Amazon are conservatively rated 1-1/2 ton and will suffice to lift one corner of any Tesla model. Hydraulic press testers on YouTube have tested these jacks to fail at over four tons. So, they are safe to use on any Tesla.

More importantly, keeping the car from slipping off the top of the jack while the car is lifted is of utmost importance, as the car tends to moved off the top if not locked.
To lock the top of the jack to the Tesla prescribed jacking point, I developed and made this adapter that fits into a 5/16 inch or 8mm hole drilled in the center top of a flat top jack like the Torin.

 

[zoros]

I don't suppose you have a link to this jack?

Black Steel Scissor Jack, 3 tons (6609lbs) Capacity, Oversize Base with Crank Handle,for SUV/MPV Tyre : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive

Buy Black Steel Scissor Jack, 3 tons (6609lbs) Capacity, Oversize Base with Crank Handle,for SUV/MPV Tyre at Amazon UK. Free delivery on eligible orders.

www.amazon.co.uk

ALIXUEQIN 3 ton6614LBS Steel Scissor Jack, car Jack UK | Ubuy

Shop ALIXUEQIN 3 ton6614LBS Steel Scissor Jack, car Jack kit, Suitable for All CarssuvsMPV Screw Rod Lifting Jacks with Ratchet Wrenches,Portable car online at a best price in UK. Get special offers, deals, discounts & fast delivery options on international shipping with every purchase on Ubuy...

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I did notice when searching that there were very few 3-tonne jacks. I have reliably been told that a 2-tonne is more than capable of lifting the corner of a TM3. 2 tonne's are much more readily available.

 

[afadeev]

I did notice when searching that there were very few 3-tonne jacks. I have reliably been told that a 2-tonne is more than capable of lifting the corner of a TM3. 2 tonne's are much more readily available.

The issues is not the rated weight capacity, but the stability of the jack.
Scissor jacks are notoriously unstable, doubly so over less than perfectly level and perfectly smooth surfaces. Like just about everywhere on a side of a road.

Use at your own risk!

 

[Mike500]

The issues is not the rated weight capacity, but the stability of the jack.
Scissor jacks are notoriously unstable, doubly so over less than perfectly level and perfectly smooth surfaces. Like just about everywhere on a side of a road.

Use at your own risk!

Yeah, the traditional design is risky due to the small base and the loose unsecure connection on the top of the jack with the lifting point of the car,

The Torin Big Red increases stability with a wider base as shown here;

Fixing the top of the jack with and adapter that allows the top connection a limited degree of freedom instead of allowing the car to slip off provides greater stability.

 

[PianoAl]

3. I may be travelling to an important meeting; to the airport for a flight; catching a ferry; on holiday. No spare - no continue

This is an important point missed by those who plan to carry a spare only on trips. I once got a flat about 100 yards from the house. The spare saved me a lot of hassle.

 

[kimwin]

Scissor jacks: poor reputation for reliability and safety (easier to tip over, or mechanism failure). Main advantage is small size and light weight for storage in the car.

Can one securely add a larger base (metal plate for example) to the scissor jack to increase its stability ?
I have used only scissor jacks so far and never had an issue. But for Tesla, I have to use a very stable jack (for peace of mind).

 

[Mike500]

Can one securely add a larger base (metal plate for example) to the scissor jack to increase its stability ?
I have used only scissor jacks so far and never had an issue. But for Tesla, I have to use a very stable jack (for peace of mind).

It is a lot more important to keep the jack from slopping off the frame of the car, since that is a very small contact surface. It can be accomplished securely with a locked in adapter between the jack and the Tesla's jacking socket. This is one example.

Many newer scissors jacks like the widely available Torin Big Red have a built in wider base that makes it much more stable.

The flat top of the Torin Big Red is easily modified by drilling a small 5/16 inch or 8mm hole to take the adapter.

 

[zoros]

Mike - I like the mod. I bought 4 x pucks that are designed for the M3:

Of note - if the jack interface doesn't cover the whole of the puck interface - the puck will deform during use. I've tack welded a 2mm circular disc onto my jack to cater for this. Or you could glue the disc onto the puck.

Final note: grease the nipples on the puck before installing into the chassis - it avoids the puck getting stuck inside the hole!

 

[zoros]

Looking at posts talking about spares and lifting and jacks etc etc. I detect some anxiety over jacks flexing during use whilst lifting such a "heavy" vehicle. The Tesla M3 might be heavy for saloon car (1.9 tonnes) but in the world of SUV's it is perfectly normal and no-one complains or worries about using the OEM jack fitted to that vehicle.

Looking further into it, I found stamped into the alloy on the inside of the M3 OEM wheel: Max load 700Kg.
I then spotted the OEM tyre wall had this: Max load 750Kg.

So I am assuming Tesla have done their research and calculated that each corner of the M3 weighs less than 750Kg.
So "most" robust scissor jacks with a 1 tonne rating or above should do the job comfortably. I use a 2+ tonne jack.

In addition - if the jack is placed on a piece of 3 or 5 Plywood acting as a base - this should cater for most uneven ground eventualities.
Good practice / belts and braces - use a metal wheel chock to prevent the car (in Park) from going anywhere - (even minutely) and nearly all the risks associated with wheel changing - are eliminated.

 

[Mike500]

All Audi scissors jacks are sufficiently rated at 1020 KG or 2117 lbs. Since it's lifting only one corner of the car, it is sufficiently designed to reduce weight designed to be carried for the life of the vehicle. Most all quality scissors jacks are required by safety standards to have a safety factor double to their rated capacity.

The original Audi aluminum jack made in the early 2000's weighed less than 3 pounds with the built in handle which cannot be lost. They later switched to steel which weighed over 5 pounds. Some 10 years ago, due to cost reduction measures, they switched to standard steel conventional scissors jacks with separate handles. These sets now weigh close to 6 pounds, which is double the original weight of the aluminum set.

 

[rotarypower101]

All Audi scissors jacks are sufficiently rated at 1020 KG or 2117 lbs. Since it's lifting only one corner of the car, it is sufficiently designed to reduce weight designed to be carried for the life of the vehicle. Most all quality scissors jacks are required by safety standards to have a safety factor double to their rated capacity.

View attachment 987586


The original Audi aluminum jack made in the early 2000's weighed less than 3 pounds with the built in handle which cannot be lost. They later switched to steel which weighed over 5 pounds. Some 10 years ago, due to cost reduction measures, they switched to standard steel conventional scissors jacks with separate handles. These sets now weigh close to 6 pounds, which is double the original weight of the aluminum set.

Of the various Audi aluminum jacks like that, is there a preference for one of the configurations, if a positively engaging pin will be added? Believe adding one to this jack below, I could still fit it in the original case with an engaging pin added I think.

Anyone that has tried, does the original included plastic clam shell case for those jacks fit well in any of the various storage areas very efficiently by chance?

 

[KenC]

There's another large thread on jacks and compact spares. I rotated my tires last April, using my spare tire jack. I have a floor jack, but sometimes I do it with my Porsche jack, just to make sure I haven't removed something from my car by accident. I put a piece of leftover IPE decking under to provide a larger flat surface. IPE is an incredibly hard dense wood. The jack can actually lift high enough that you could remove both tires from one side, to do a rotation. These Porsche jacks have a built-in oval nubbin. You file it down a little to get it round. I got my jack on eBay from a seller who sells tons of these. I vaguely remember his name is SpecializedGerman, or something like that. Anyway, that's what I do.

 

[Mike500]

Of the various Audi aluminum jacks like that, is there a preference for one of the configurations, if a positively engaging pin will be added? Believe adding one to this jack below, I could still fit it in the original case with an engaging pin added I think.

Anyone that has tried, does the original included plastic clam shell case for those jacks fit well in any of the various storage areas very efficiently by chance?

The 1998-2004 Audi aluminum jack is better suited for conversion to the Tesla jacking socket on account that it has a steel flat top. This is actually one of my conversions using a stainless steel disk and a green machined Delrin knob.

So converted, it will fit into the plastic case.

 

[Mike500]

I forgot I had one last one of these Audi 3 pound aluminum jacks. I was saving it for myself. Those showing interests in this post gave me the inspiration to use my aircraft industry skills to improve on the previous design with a impact resistant socket adapter mand form rare blue UHMW Spectra that I have been saving for more than 10 years. Here is a photo of the Tesla universal jacking adapter mounted on this jack.

 

[Mike500]

Looking at posts talking about spares and lifting and jacks etc etc. I detect some anxiety over jacks flexing during use whilst lifting such a "heavy" vehicle. The Tesla M3 might be heavy for saloon car (1.9 tonnes) but in the world of SUV's it is perfectly normal and no-one complains or worries about using the OEM jack fitted to that vehicle.

Looking further into it, I found stamped into the alloy on the inside of the M3 OEM wheel: Max load 700Kg.
I then spotted the OEM tyre wall had this: Max load 750Kg.

So I am assuming Tesla have done their research and calculated that each corner of the M3 weighs less than 750Kg.
So "most" robust scissor jacks with a 1 tonne rating or above should do the job comfortably. I use a 2+ tonne jack.

The 750Kg is a dynamic load rating. That means a greater than required capacity for one corner of the car supported by a scissors jack under a static load.

Manufactures have more to consider than a jack's ability to support a car for tire changing. Carrying a jack for the full life of the car on account of weight and size affects the EPA and other standards mileage rating. Overcapacity is as bad as under capacity..

 

[zoros]

And there's the 'rub'. Manufacturers expect us all to drive at optimum speed on OEM tyres, @ 15 degrees celcius at sea level, in nil wind, with 100% efficent batteries. Not going to happen.

One of the reasons (a big reason in fact) for us buying a Tesla "long range" dual motor is because of the long range; funnily enough. The permutations associated with this due to:
Temp
type of tyre
wheel size
humidity
road conditions
tyre pressure
loading
type of driving.

are well known.

For me (supported by the excellent Tesla charger network in the UK) - "Range Anxiety" is not an issue.

Peeps are getting hung up over this sort of thing simply because they monitor every drop of electricity going into this 'new' type of car they've bought, unlike the years of their experiences with the ICE - where I guarantee NO-ONE spoke about % mpg loss over the lifetime of their car because they carried 'x' lbs too much. It's all techno blabber.

Worse even than the other comments made about leaving the spare unsecured in the boot, for fear of it penetrating the back shelf (and front seats) and crushing the driver in a head on collision FFS!

Let's walk everywhere then shall we ?