Welcome to Tesla Motors Club
Discuss Tesla's Model S, Model 3, Model X, Model Y, Cybertruck, Roadster and More.
Register

Gen 3 Wall Connector

This site may earn commission on affiliate links.
This is more to inform buyers on mounting options and cable not being long enough. See pics. Car is 1.5 feet from the back wall. Cable needs another 4 feet at least to drape in front of veh.
C8AB068D-30A6-4542-B633-4675CCA50F4E.jpeg
C72F0A06-6627-477B-8B1C-B299BA769FDD.jpeg
 
  • Helpful
Reactions: daviddfann
It clearly just means people will have to choose better places to mount the wall unit or park differently which is exactly what most everyone else will do.

In many cases, this will suffice; however, that's not always true. Here's a Google Street View image of my driveway, for instance. My house has no garage. Since it's from Google Street View, the image is outdated; I now drive a Model 3, not a Volt; but I do still use the Clipper Creek EVSE visible in the photo.

View media item 120913
Although an 18-foot cable would likely stretch from the current EVSE's location to the Model 3's charge port when the car is parked as shown in this image, it would be near the end of its range. The real problem is that I sometimes park to the left of where the car is in this photo, on the horizontal concrete apron rather than on the sloping driveway. I do this in winter weather because it's easier to pull out horizontally rather than trying to start moving backward uphill; and sometimes I do it at other times if I need to let visitors park in the driveway. In either case, I don't think an 18-foot cord would reach the car's charge port when parked in this way, given the EVSE's location. My street is fairly busy, so backing in to put the charge port closer to the EVSE is not an option; it would annoy other drivers too much. Mounting the EVSE a bit to the left (under the window) might help with the alternate parking position, but might make it impossible to reach when the car is in the driveway, except by pulling in further, which would make it hard to get out of the car because of door clearance issues. Mounting the EVSE on the exterior wall across from the car, and back (closer to the street) might work better for both locations, but that would have complicated the interior wiring, given the interior layout of the house, and it'd be more obtrusive with the cable run from the EVSE to the car across that concrete apron.

There are other scenarios involving two-car garages, especially when there are two EVs involved and one EVSE, in which an 18-foot cable would create similar complications. ~24-foot EVSE cables exist for a reason, and dropping down to an 18-foot maximum cable length will make the new Tesla Wall Connector unsuitable for some installations. I wouldn't care to venture a guess as to how many will now find it unsuitable, but I'm 100% certain that some will be looking elsewhere. I know that if my Clipper Creek were to die, I wouldn't consider any EVSE with an 18-foot cable for a replacement. Maybe for a new installation, if I decided to mount it closer to the street, running the cable across the concrete apron to the car; but given that I already have 240v wiring to the EVSE where it is now, a replacement would go there, too.

On that note, with the exception of one or two troublesome units, any J1772 EVSE can be used with a Tesla, and lots of these are available with ~24-foot cables. True, an adapter is required, but all Teslas come with these. If you want to keep one adapter with the EVSE at all times and another with the car at all times, a new adapter costs $95, which effectively raises the cost of the EVSE, but not ridiculously so, given that a new Tesla costs over $35,000; that extra $95 is a rounding error by comparison. The combination need not be significantly less convenient than a Tesla Wall Connector, either; the main thing it won't do is open the charge-port door by pressing a button on the handle. A basic J1772 EVSE doesn't have the new Wall Connector's network connectivity features, but EVSEs like the ChargePoint Home, JuiceBox, and OpenEVSE, have similar connectivity features. Thus, I can say from personal experience that, if you need a longer cable, a J1772 EVSE can be a perfectly acceptable solution.
 
  • Like
  • Informative
Reactions: hcsharp and Rocky_H
From the installation manual

Installation Considerations
Wall Connector may be installed on any flat, vertical surface capable of supporting its weight (e.g. wall, pedestal, etc.). Wall Connector (wirebox and faceplate) weighs ~10 lb (4.5 kg).
Choosing Location
Install Wall Connector in a location that allows the charging cable to reach the vehicle charge port without putting strain on the cable.
• Dark gray: Recommended installation area for Wall Connectors with 18 ft (5.5 m) cable
• Light gray: Recommended installation area for Wall Connectors with 8.5 ft (2.6 m) cable
Install Wall Connector in a location with ample clearance on all sides to allow the charging cable to loop around the unit and the charging handle to comfortably land in the side dock.
NOTE: If constrained by space, a cable organizer can be installed near the Wall Connector (sold separately).

Looks like you should of installed in a different spot. Or just back in
 
Or simply making the cable 24' like the last one would also solve the "problem" instead of having to back when charging.
Backing in is far simpler for some people than others.

I think the 24' would require the cable to be thicker and as such more current to avoid attenuation and as such more amps, and more amps needs a larger breaker, etc, etc. (could be wrong but this is what is being discussed elsewhere).
 
I think the 24' would require the cable to be thicker and as such more current to avoid attenuation and as such more amps, and more amps needs a larger breaker, etc, etc. (could be wrong but this is what is being discussed elsewhere).
Its possible.
Im sure they are working on it.
Should be avail in a 24" option soon.
Not a big deal. Just more information for future buyers.
 
I think the 24' would require the cable to be thicker and as such more current to avoid attenuation and as such more amps, and more amps needs a larger breaker, etc, etc. (could be wrong but this is what is being discussed elsewhere).
Don't bother bringing facts to this conversation because some people only think with their emotions, clearly. If they knew anything about electricity or at least listen to people who did they would understand why the cable was made the length that it was made and it wasn't just some whim by an engineer who put zero thought into it. A lot of thought goes into these sort of decisions and I'm sure they had tons of data (years now) supporting the lengths that people were using as well as the amperage and took all of that into consideration of the new design. They decided to limit the amperage at 48A which leaves all of my car's out in the cold for an upgrade I paid for. Rather than complain about it e(though it's not as easy as simply backing up) I chose to go on with my life and understand that my needs are probably a small percentage of the overall needs. Others couldn't see past themselves I guess.
 
I received a response from [email protected] on load sharing between Gen 2 and Gen 3. Here is my question and response:

I notice there is a RS-485 port on the Gen 3 wall connector. Is it possible (now or in the future) to connect this to the input of a Gen 2 wall connector and have them load balance with the Gen 3 as the master?

The Gen 3 Wall Connector won’t be able to load balance with the Gen 2 and it’s not something we’re planning on doing in the future.
 
Is the wifi power sharing feature enabled for the Gen 3 wall connectors? The instruction manual is referencing it as being a future firmware update. I need to setup two of these in my garage with one being a slave, but if I can't power share, then I'll have to find some Gen 2 chargers.
 
Is the wifi power sharing feature enabled for the Gen 3 wall connectors? The instruction manual is referencing it as being a future firmware update. I need to setup two of these in my garage with one being a slave, but if I can't power share, then I'll have to find some Gen 2 chargers.

I read somewhere that power-sharing is not yet available. If so, and if you need that feature now, as you say, finding Gen2 Wall Connectors is an option. Another is to go with third-party J1772 EVSEs with similar features. From memory, the JuiceBox and ChargePoint Home both support power sharing -- but be sure to check product specs before buying. These are likely to cost a little more than the Tesla Wall Connectors, especially if you want to add dedicated Tesla J1772 adapters to each unit, unless of course prices on the limited stock of Gen2 units on eBay or wherever go up because of price gouging. That possibility is the main reason I'm mentioning this third-party alternative. If you do go with a J1772 EVSE, the main feature you'll be missing compared to a Tesla Wall Connector is the ability to open your charge port by pressing a button on the handle. You'll still be able to open your charge port by tapping it, by using the screen in the car, or by using your phone, of course. You can stop a charge and remove the plug in basically the same way with either Tesla or J1772 devices, although with J1772, you've got to either be careful to not disconnect the J1772 plug from the adapter or re-connect them afterwards. (I use a Clipper Creek J1772 EVSE, and it's not hard to use with a Tesla.)
 
It does kind of blow my mind that Tesla would do an absolute hard cutover from an old version to a new version of a product with one of the major features not yet available in the new version and the old version unavailable anymore.

Guess what that means, Tesla? IT'S NOT READY TO RELEASE YET!!
 
  • Like
Reactions: mociaf9