Hansshow Audio Upgrade? (SR+)

[Shahabbari]

Fitted this Hansshow DIY kit today to activate all the speakers for my June 2019 model 3 RHD. Instructions from them were total pants and all online vids are for LHD cars.

I didn’t plan to but whilst the panels were off I decided to make a few short videos. Hopefully they will help someone

See description on pt1, another YouTuber has made a great video on how to remove the panels.

 

[Germ]

I ordered my DIY harness 5 days ago from Hansshow, and I received it yesterday in Montreal. Very impressed by how fast it was delivered! I installed it this morning, and I have to admit that it was a very simple and easy install to do. I used Jim's Garage YouTube video which is well made. I highly recommend it, it sounds amazing.

However, I have one minor issue. The speaker on the passenger side (corner window) is not working. Since I have a March 2020 model, I left the back harness on the Hansshow box but I didn't plug it it. Could it be that I didn't plug the signal wire on the passenger side?

 

[Shahabbari]

I ordered my DIY harness 5 days ago from Hansshow, and I received it yesterday in Montreal. Very impressed by how fast it was delivered! I installed it this morning, and I have to admit that it was a very simple and easy install to do. I used Jim's Garage YouTube video which is well made. I highly recommend it, it sounds amazing.

However, I have one minor issue. The speaker on the passenger side (corner window) is not working. Since I have a March 2020 model, I left the back harness on the Hansshow box but I didn't plug it it. Could it be that I didn't plug the signal wire on the passenger side?

I ordered my DIY harness 5 days ago from Hansshow, and I received it yesterday in Montreal. Very impressed by how fast it was delivered! I installed it this morning, and I have to admit that it was a very simple and easy install to do. I used Jim's Garage YouTube video which is well made. I highly recommend it, it sounds amazing.

However, I have one minor issue. The speaker on the passenger side (corner window) is not working. Since I have a March 2020 model, I left the back harness on the Hansshow box but I didn't plug it it. Could it be that I didn't plug the signal wire on the passenger side?

did you disconnect the black and purple wire connector and plug in the Hansshow one?

 

[Germ]

did you disconnect the black and purple wire connector and plug in the Hansshow one?

Ok so I found my mistake, on the passenger side, I had only plugged in the harness nothing else. I was missing the "signal" wire. Now everything works perfectly, what a difference even with just front speakers added!

 

[badiban]

Installed the DIY harness in a May 2019 build. Ordered a few weeks ago and received it very quickly. It was pretty easy to install. Sound is much fuller, and I did not notice a degradation in bass. Overall I am very happy with the sound.

My only concern is the health of the system longterm. Definitely do not want to overload base system/amp... How worried should I be about this?

I guess decently worried..it may be worth leaving the rear speakers unplugged just to be safe.

@Cici.Hung or someone else from Hansshow could help if they have some documentation to verify that the impedance isn’t changed by the DIY harness.

 

[KitchenerSR+]

i installed a fosgate p300-10 last night. Honestly I’m underwhelmed with it. Doesn’t go very low and I find the bass a bit muddy. For the price it’s ok, but I’m sending it back and doing something a lot better. I’m probably more picky than most people though. I’ve had a lot of audio gear when I was younger.

I have Version B and like I mentioned before, even with a polarity switch it sounds like hot garbage. I opened it up and it is a TINY amp which makes sense since the power wires to connect it look like they're 16 gauge. This looks like the product they copied for Version B: PWE-S8 | Compact 8" Powered Subwoofer and it's only 120 W so you can probably assume the Version B sub is even weaker.

So...all that being said, after I saw the person who fit the 8" Rockford P300 into the space for the sub I was going to order it but your comment had me reconsider so I got the 10". Honestly, after having two 12" subs in my car as a young driver I thought the 10" would be weak like you said. Ultimately, the 8" that fits in the space would have been more than enough. The 10" has a 300 Watt amp built in and is surprisingly loud. Honestly, it is a little much when it comes to balancing all of the frequencies, thankfully they include the 'Punch' remote.

I recommend anyone here gets the harness only and taps the wires for the 8" Rockford sub with built-in amp. It will be close to the same price and SO much better bass. With the awful Hansshow sub the door woofers were putting out better bass than the barely their pounding Hansshow crap. Do NOT waste your money on the Version B sub, go with the harness only or buy a better sub, like the P300-8, somewhere else. Sure, you could get the Version F with their OEM-like sub but they still don't tell you the power, only a silly YouTube video with paper on the subwoofer cone, and it is very expensive. The 10" P300 is LOUD and fits in the sub trunk while the 8" will fit in the original sub location.

After suffering through being a beta tester for their harness as well as their awful sub, I am bitter but now satisfied as I have resolved all of the weaknesses of their half-baked products.

 

[amorris]

I have Version B and like I mentioned before, even with a polarity switch it sounds like hot garbage. I opened it up and it is a TINY amp which makes sense since the power wires to connect it look like they're 16 gauge. This looks like the product they copied for Version B: PWE-S8 | Compact 8" Powered Subwoofer and it's only 120 W so you can probably assume the Version B sub is even weaker.

So...all that being said, after I saw the person who fit the 8" Rockford P300 into the space for the sub I was going to order it but your comment had me reconsider so I got the 10". Honestly, after having two 12" subs in my car as a young driver I thought the 10" would be weak like you said. Ultimately, the 8" that fits in the space would have been more than enough. The 10" has a 300 Watt amp built in and is surprisingly loud. Honestly, it is a little much when it comes to balancing all of the frequencies, thankfully they include the 'Punch' remote.

I recommend anyone here gets the harness only and taps the wires for the 8" Rockford sub with built-in amp. It will be close to the same price and SO much better bass. With the awful Hansshow sub the door woofers were putting out better bass than the barely their pounding Hansshow crap. Do NOT waste your money on the Version B sub, go with the harness only or buy a better sub, like the P300-8, somewhere else. Sure, you could get the Version F with their OEM-like sub but they still don't tell you the power, only a silly YouTube video with paper on the subwoofer cone, and it is very expensive. The 10" P300 is LOUD and fits in the sub trunk while the 8" will fit in the original sub location.

After suffering through being a beta tester for their harness as well as their awful sub, I am bitter but now satisfied as I have resolved all of the weaknesses of their half-baked products.

YeahI think the big issue were all going to fight is the factory system rolls off the bass under 50hz and has a pretty big bump around 50hz. This means it’ll always be a bit boomy. The best way to combat this is EQing the input with a DSP.

 

[j5701]

Tesla Offer includes the same filter.
View attachment 627820

Interesting, just finished a whatsapp convo with someone from TeslaOffer and they were adamant that there’s no crossover. wonder what that box is then?

 

[beachsideev]

well if you buy the teslaoffer one, open up the box and take a picture for us. my guess is it looks exactly like the hansshow box.

 

[beachsideev]

inside of my hansshow diy crossover box.

 

[tlr1000]

Generally a passive crossover has resistors, inductors, and capacitors. Appears there are four 470uf caps here.

Caps look like these: [Hot Item] 25V 470UF Low Impedance Audio Electrolytic Capacitors

 

[davewill]

inside of my hansshow diy crossover box.

View attachment 628827

Anything on the backside?

 

[beachsideev]

Anything on the backside?

nope.

you can make a crossover with a single cap. it won't be the best crossover ever, but it will filter frequencies.

 

[beachsideev]

yeah, those caps do look similar.

 

[beachsideev]

you need to swap the wires going to those speakers. imo, the easiest place to do that is at the connector by the right rear seat back. you can pull that leather covered panel off pretty easily and you don't need to crawl under the dash to rework it. the excess wire is long enough to actually do the work outside the car. A few pages back I posted a picture of this connector with the speaker wire colors identified.

edit: see page 55 of this thread.

 

[john94si]

I ordered the offer wiring harness today. i will update how it works on my 2021 after i get it.

 

[Shahabbari]

I have Version B and like I mentioned before, even with a polarity switch it sounds like hot garbage. I opened it up and it is a TINY amp which makes sense since the power wires to connect it look like they're 16 gauge. This looks like the product they copied for Version B: PWE-S8 | Compact 8" Powered Subwoofer and it's only 120 W so you can probably assume the Version B sub is even weaker.

So...all that being said, after I saw the person who fit the 8" Rockford P300 into the space for the sub I was going to order it but your comment had me reconsider so I got the 10". Honestly, after having two 12" subs in my car as a young driver I thought the 10" would be weak like you said. Ultimately, the 8" that fits in the space would have been more than enough. The 10" has a 300 Watt amp built in and is surprisingly loud. Honestly, it is a little much when it comes to balancing all of the frequencies, thankfully they include the 'Punch' remote.

I recommend anyone here gets the harness only and taps the wires for the 8" Rockford sub with built-in amp. It will be close to the same price and SO much better bass. With the awful Hansshow sub the door woofers were putting out better bass than the barely their pounding Hansshow crap. Do NOT waste your money on the Version B sub, go with the harness only or buy a better sub, like the P300-8, somewhere else. Sure, you could get the Version F with their OEM-like sub but they still don't tell you the power, only a silly YouTube video with paper on the subwoofer cone, and it is very expensive. The 10" P300 is LOUD and fits in the sub trunk while the 8" will fit in the original sub location.

After suffering through being a beta tester for their harness as well as their awful sub, I am bitter but now satisfied as I have resolved all of the weaknesses of their half-baked products.

I’ve fitted the DIY kit and would like more bass. Are you recommending to keep the DIY kit and tap the front door speakers for the sub? Or order the wiring kit from Hansshow for version B but without them supplying the sub?

also what exact sub and built in amp would you recommend that will fit in the Side of the boot exactly as OEM?
Thanks

 

[Rushore]

I'm about to install the DYI harness and I'm not sure what this step attached below is all about from the step by step instructions ?. I watched the videos on YouTube and this step was not covered. "You must install our power wire with this screw or your DSP will get hot and speaker has noise "

Greatly appreciate any feedback!

 

[Rushore]

Model 3 SR DIY Version Audio Upgrade Installation Manual

The full instructions above (step #12)

 

[Brendwal]

Model 3 SR DIY Version Audio Upgrade Installation Manual

The full instructions above (step #12)

If you’re doing the DIY activation harness, there is no DSP, nor any yellow wire to hook up to 12v power. Skip this step. It’s not applicable to the DIY version. I speak from putting it in successfully, then weeks later removing and switching out for Version F.