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Here is why I'm getting the bare bones 35k T3

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Glad to read your post. Im here in Portland too. New to EV, only because i have saved all my money the last 5 years to buy a Tesla.....

I hate how you have to get a Premium package to get heated seats. Its so nice to have that here in Portland on rainy days.

Cloth for me is fine, but definitely the whole point of a Tesla is AP, and the future is full autonomy (just around the corner?) so i will get that as well. I really wish the AWD was here as it helps alot i bet in the rain? What is your experience on that with the Model X in the rain vs an S RWD in the rain?

Our Model S P85 in the rain was fine. I mean, with that much torque I COULD get the rear to slide past the traction control limits but had to intentionally. AWD would only be needed for snow (some say even then the RWD but we never tried it with the performance tires...)

I agree, I may have to do the AP but won't charge my kid for it. Does anyone know if you can decide later on AP?
 
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Reactions: Genshi
I've driven up Mt Hood in the snow in 2WD with winter tires while California 4x4s could not get traction to proceed.

I did this drive in a 4x4 I left in 2WD because, well, I'm from Chicago.

WInter tires are winter RATED tires. Not tires with deep treads that seem like they should do well in the snow.
We always laugh at the news reports when Portland, Or gets a snow storm. The smart people stay home, it's those with AWD who believe some how they won't get stuck who are shown stranded at the side of the road, or worse flipped over from a skid. I grew up in CT. with no AWD cars, winter tires and some common sense. I think AWD is over hyped.
 
I can't wait, so that's why I'm not getting a bare bones 35K M3.

But unbelievable value to price ratio. :)

i hope you get yours soon, but with the Model X, the barebones units were delivered later. I had waited 2 yrs for a 5-seat MX, and Tesla told me that it would be another year for delivery. However, if i would upgrade to the 6-seater for $4K, i could get in in a month. I went to the showroom and discovered that the 6-seater was by far the best configuration, changed my order, and got my car quickly. I just have to wonder whether the barebones units will the the first ones off the line?
 
Your car will have the hardware. Software update is a bit more expensive afterwards than upon ordering, but anyway - you will want AP, as soon as possible, once you try it :)!

I'm a bit skeptical on this point. As Autopilot and Self Driving become more advanced (and more common in competitors) down the road, do we really think Tesla will still charge us MORE than the original price -- especially if those options are available for far less in competitors and newer models?

My gut says no. It's just software, and I'm hoping they end up charging us the same as the original cost, if not less, or nothing at all... (Nothing is a pipe dream, but hey - we CAN dream!)
 
I was thinking all day today at work, do I really need the long range? I commute around 66.7 miles each day, hardly do road trips while I can fly instead. Right now in my 02 Volvo XC70, I can drive 330 miles with about 175 miles remaining per onboard display miles to empty tank. With the M3 for 220 miles range, I can plug it in every other night, an order in silver order, AP, maybe premium upgrades and sports wheel since I don't like the standard wheel but always go aftermarket. Dual Motor (AWD), been driving AWD vehicle, like the feel of it but don't really need it in California.

Mainly want a commuter car that is affordable that is within my budget, should I go with the standard battery and use it toward AP and premium upgrade? I won't take delivery most likely until late next year.
I don't know, I have an S85 that our family loves, but range has always been something we have wanted more of. The 3 starts at 220, but if you charge to the recommended 90% you are now at 198, I then take another 10% off mentally to account for normal driving and heat/ac use in Southern California, and that leaves you at about 178 of miles until zero. But, realistically driving to zero is a really bad idea, so I like to be close to home or a charger with about 20 miles left, so that equates to about 158 T3 base model anxiety free miles of range. Depending on T3 vampire drain (which we don't know yet) you might lose 5-10 miles a night/day while not charging. To me, your drive two days, charge one schedule may not be practical. One short grocery trip could upset that Apple cart.

Charging at home is something our family loves, but we do it daily and is easy with our garage situation. So there are no gas stations in our thinking anymore, but we only had to go once, or at the most twice a week. Something to be aware off. I very rarely see anyone post that they wish they got the smaller battery.

Happy shopping!
 
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Skipping superchargers is an extremely inefficient mode. The goal should be to arrive with as low of a range as possible at each charger and charge just enough to get to your next one. Usually a 10-15% buffer is all you need. It's the most efficient model of long-range travel. Charging to 80% at a supercharger instead of 50% will cost you more time than you realize.

This hasn't been my experience. I'm about 1 1/2 years in to my 85D MS and I've always found it is about the timing of the trip. We just did a trip from Washington DC to Winston Salem NC and back over the weekend. There are 4 superchargers on that route (woodbridge, glenn allen, south hill, and Burlington) When I plugged the route into the computer, it recommended 1 stop at South Hill when I started with a full 270 mile charge. The 40 minute recommended charge at South Hill turned into a 55 minute charge as we stayed for Lunch. This gave us the ability to drive a bit faster and have more range when we arrived at the hotel.

Stopping at each of the chargers for a "splash and dash" would have taken a lot longer than a slightly extended lunch stop.
 
You can plug in your typical road trips into the site below to get a sense of how much time you would save going with the standard or long range. The site will also show you how much it should cost to supercharge on that trip. Select the Model 3 standard or long range under settings and compare. Is the time savings worth $9,000? A Better Routeplanner

For trips, the 310 mile range version would be able to skip the first supercharger, but probably not the second. So for $9k you are only saving about 30 minutes a few times you will be taking road trips. I can think of much better things to do with $9k than save 30 minutes a handful of times a year.

If you can fit your average commute and other errands in about 150 miles per day then the 220 mile range car should be fine even in the winter. I tracked our driving, when we had a gas car for a few years with Automatic OBD dongle and app.

In December we got a Model S 60 with 210 mile range. Our Model 3 will be our second commuter car. Historically I haven't kept cars very long, but hope to keep these Teslas for 5 years or more and possibly replace it with a Model Y. Cost for greater range has been coming down fast and in 5 years we will probably see 300 mile range as the standard.

More is better, but unless you are traveling all the time (retired people or sales people), to me, it doesn't make sense to spend $9k more in the Model 3 or $23k more for Model S 100d to get to 300+ miles.
 
I've been thinking about this all day. I can't decide if longer range is more important than having autopilot. I want the premium option package for the glass roof, adjustable seats and of corse, the folding mirrors. Don't know why I like the folding mirrors so much, but every time I see them on a Tesla I get really excited. Again, no idea why, not logical.

I hardly take any road trips, but I may change jobs in the next few years, start a family etc etc, so not sure what I'll need in the future.

Option 1: Base 35,000
Midnight Silver Metallic 1,000
Premium Package 5,000
Sport wheels 1,500
Autopilot 5,000
-1,000 reservation payment
Total: 46,500

Option 2: Long range 44,000
Midnight Silver Metallic 1,000
Premium Package 5,000
Sport wheels 1,500
-1000 reservation payment
Total: 50,500

Let me know what you guys think.
Option 2 jumps at me more. You can always add on autopilot, but you can't add on the long range motor. I have a 6 week old Model S 100D, and autopilot is definitely cool, and I use it sometimes, but not sure if it's $5K cool. Plus you still have to be focusing and keeping your hands near or on the wheel. It's not like you can be fiddling with your phone while using AP. Cars may be heading towards autonomy, but they have a ways to go. With that said, Option 1 isn't bad either. I was once advised to get the best car that you can afford, which is what I did. Good luck!
 
I'd likely move the larger battery option to the top of my priority list if:

1) I lived in a cold climate. By cold I mean weeks at 40F or below. As others have said before me, cold climates require more battery energy spent on warming occupants and battery, plus the battery chemistry is such that capacity is reduced in cold weather. So, folks in Minneapolis: Consider the larger battery.

2) I lived in a hot climate. By hot, I mean weeks above 100F, e.g. Phoenix. My rationale here is to reduce stress on the battery. Heat, combined with high State Of Charge (SOC) can permanently reduce the battery's useful capacity faster than normal (looking at you Nissan). Even though Tesla uses liquid cooling for the battery, I still consider heat a negative factor. A larger battery means you could maybe live with only charging to 70% each day, and keep within that battery life extending sweet spot of 40 to 70 percent.

3) I was driving more than 100 miles a day. Increasing the number of large Depth of Discharge (DOD) cycles can bring degradation on sooner than desired. A larger battery would maybe mean fewer charges from 20% to 90% for example. Notice that the Tesla warranty for the larger battery is longer than the standard's. Perhaps this is an indicator that given the typical miles driven, larger Tesla batteries lead less stressful lives.

4) I lived in a condo or apartment with a dick homeowners association or landlord, i.e. no onsite charger for you. A bigger gas tank (battery), means less trips to the "gas" station. :)

I apologize for the lack of citations to my claims above. Google is your friend.
 
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What's this with rain? On snow or ice I believe AWD can make a difference (well, even then, only uphill - it will make little or no difference downhill). And even uphill on snow or ice AWD will help much less than winter tires will help (which cost more or less just the price of having someone change your tires twice a year - 100 EUR/USD per year or so). But rain? Except if you're taking roundabouts at 120km/h, I don't see the point :). Emergency braking will most probably be exactly the same with RWD or AWD.


I had a RWD Model S before my current AWD and am seriously considering going back to RWD (more comfortable, a more sporty feeling with accelerations, 5000 EUR less, less whine from motor). In the good ol' days we also got a larger frunk; a pity that that is no more.
Interesting. I have a loaner P85 Model S while my new 100D Model S is in the shop getting a blemish fixed that was on the car at delivery. I find the 100D has much better traction and control, even though it's summertime. It also drives better, and feels quicker, even though 0 - 60 is listed at 4.2 for both. With that said, maybe the loaner has old tires (doesn't visibly appear so), or something else is going on. I live in a snowy wintry region and have always had AWD cars that have held up great. Do you, or anyone else, have firsthand experience of a RWD Tesla with winter tires vs AWD with normal tires? Just curious if winter tires on RWD are really better than normal tires on AWD. Thank you!!
 
Just want to caution you that I think your Level 1 charge estimate is a little high...Standard Level 1 is about 4-5 miles an hour with most cars, and the Model S is less than that. Don't forget that the 1,440 watts you'll be pulling (120v x 12 amps) also has to power the fans and cooling system on the car....So you might be putting 1,150 or 1,200 watts into the battery...

One more thing I've learned from experience...Check your garage receptacle thoroughly and think about replacing it with a new commercial grade receptacle that uses screw terminals and not the back-stab connections...If you'll be charging at Level 1 speeds for hours on end, you don't want to take a chance on any sort of poor connection that will heat up...
You make a good point, I will also be going with standard charge but not by choice. I have an older house and my circuit box is full. I do have 240 in my house, but think I can add to that. I can jump the 110 or use existing 110 power that is on my garage. Another point you made is what does the ac or heater do to battery. I live in NJ and do get extreme temperatures.
 
I'd likely move the larger battery option to the top of my priority list if:

1) I lived in a cold climate. By cold I mean weeks at 40F or below. As others have said before me, cold climates require more battery energy spent on warming occupants and battery, plus the battery chemistry is such that capacity is reduced in cold weather. So, folks in Minneapolis: Consider the larger battery.
2)
3)
*4)

#1 is my reason, along with faster L2 and Supercharger charging and longer battery warrantee. Extra performance is also a bonus. One thing that I haven't seen mentioned is towing. I want to tow a small (850 lb.) camping trailer on road trips. Anyone with experience towing have an estimate on range reduction with this? Trailer should be pretty low drag being about 50" high and 72" wide (GO Pop Up Adventure Camping Trailers | SylvanSport).
 
I don't know, I have an S85 that our family loves, but range has always been something we have wanted more of. The 3 starts at 220, but if you charge to the recommended 90% you are now at 198, I then take another 10% off mentally to account for normal driving and heat/ac use in Southern California, and that leaves you at about 178 of miles until zero. But, realistically driving to zero is a really bad idea, so I like to be close to home or a charger with about 20 miles left, so that equates to about 158 T3 base model anxiety free miles of range. Depending on T3 vampire drain (which we don't know yet) you might lose 5-10 miles a night/day while not charging. To me, your drive two days, charge one schedule may not be practical. One short grocery trip could upset that Apple cart.

Charging at home is something our family loves, but we do it daily and is easy with our garage situation. So there are no gas stations in our thinking anymore, but we only had to go once, or at the most twice a week. Something to be aware off. I very rarely see anyone post that they wish they got the smaller battery.

Happy shopping!

I agree with a lot of your points. My 70 is ok with long trips but I would admit that I wish I had longer range. For example from San Diego to Gilbert AZ to visit family, we have to make 1 stop for full charge and another quick stop. It would be much nicer to have the 100 and just make 1 stop where we don't even have to fully charge.

However, it comes down to your needs too. I never plan to do long road trips on our new M3. So although I would like to have a larger battery, 220 would more than suffice for our use. So for the very occasional need/want to have more than 220 range, the extra cost doesn't justify for us. But for anyone who is planning to do a lot of long trips with the lower range M3, I would advise against it. You will quickly hate traveling in it. You'll have to stop so many times and the more charge frequencies you add to your trip, your trip gets longer (especially when/if all chargers are in use causing you to wait) or you realize the charger you're using isn't charging as fast as you hoped.