battleroyale
Member
Got my soundqubed sub and waiting on info on the lightharmonic amp. Can someone running this set up post up some pics of the sub in the tesla sub box?
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Ideal Aftermarket Audio System for Model S
- Thread starter EVTechPioneer
- Start date
battleroyale
Member
battleroyale
Member
trayloader
Member
Has anyone ever seen these or have any thoughts/advice? I was thinking about the Etons that others have purchased but also saw these.
I don't plan on replacing the factory tweeters (I have the UHFS/Premium Package Option) so this would just be used to replace the 8" mids in the door. Their frequency responses seems to be wide enough to cover midrange duties and are only 2 ohms as compared to the Etons that are 3 ohms?
RetroSound R-TW82 R-TW8 Series Flat Subwoofer | eBay
I don't plan on replacing the factory tweeters (I have the UHFS/Premium Package Option) so this would just be used to replace the 8" mids in the door. Their frequency responses seems to be wide enough to cover midrange duties and are only 2 ohms as compared to the Etons that are 3 ohms?
RetroSound R-TW82 R-TW8 Series Flat Subwoofer | eBay
trayloader
Member
These are subwoofers. Completely different response curve.
The ETONs are the sh***, don´t bend down on subbass and fit perfect to what Tesla sonically envisoned.
Maybe someone could 3D scan their Premium Sound speaker adapter for 3D printing, which would make a drop in solution even easier.
The ETONs are the sh***, don´t bend down on subbass and fit perfect to what Tesla sonically envisoned.
Maybe someone could 3D scan their Premium Sound speaker adapter for 3D printing, which would make a drop in solution even easier.
alwaysru
Member
Installed mine yesterday - same experience. Much heavier - look nicer - but no real audio difference I can tell. I installed the drivers side (front and rear) first to test the difference - and my wife even said she preferred the factory speakers. Damn.
trayloader
Member
That is because the speakers are too small and are not cutting it without their own dedicated amp.
Let me repeat independent from the amp or not you need bigger speakers in the front then the Tesla standard ones plus optional speakers with better highs in the second row or separate better tweeters In the front.
It’s a physical necessity the diameter corellares with bass frequency.
With the big ETONS no separate dedicated amp is needed.
I am beginning to sound like an ETON shill but believe me that is not at all the case. The only reason was the were reasonably priced and I knew that VW the diesel cheater Numero uno used to them in their top-of-the-line cars and they sounded great.
Let me repeat independent from the amp or not you need bigger speakers in the front then the Tesla standard ones plus optional speakers with better highs in the second row or separate better tweeters In the front.
It’s a physical necessity the diameter corellares with bass frequency.
With the big ETONS no separate dedicated amp is needed.
I am beginning to sound like an ETON shill but believe me that is not at all the case. The only reason was the were reasonably priced and I knew that VW the diesel cheater Numero uno used to them in their top-of-the-line cars and they sounded great.
alwaysru
Member
I'm sure this sort of thing has been posted before - but in case anyone is wondering, installing new door speakers in the S is super simple.
All tools needed - T25 TORX, T30 TORX, 10MM Socket, Screwdriver, and electric screwdriver with bendy extension (makes it a hell of a lot easier to install the speakers)
Take off the door by removing the 10mm bolt & 2x T30 screws - use the flathead screwdriver to get the rubber piece out of the handle and the plastic piece from the puller area:
Then pull the door straight off (do not twist) - using a bit of force and I recommend starting at the top side closest to the body of the car - it was easiest for me:
Once pulled off, balance (or have someone hold) the door for you, remove the 4 screws from the speaker with the T25 TORX, and detach the electrical connection by pulling firmly:
Screw in the new speaker, attach the electrical connection and put the door back together the opposite way you took it apart and TADA - you're done. I timed my final one - took me 8 minutes from start to finish to remove the door, install the speaker, and put the door back together. Super simple.
All tools needed - T25 TORX, T30 TORX, 10MM Socket, Screwdriver, and electric screwdriver with bendy extension (makes it a hell of a lot easier to install the speakers)
Take off the door by removing the 10mm bolt & 2x T30 screws - use the flathead screwdriver to get the rubber piece out of the handle and the plastic piece from the puller area:
Then pull the door straight off (do not twist) - using a bit of force and I recommend starting at the top side closest to the body of the car - it was easiest for me:
Once pulled off, balance (or have someone hold) the door for you, remove the 4 screws from the speaker with the T25 TORX, and detach the electrical connection by pulling firmly:
Screw in the new speaker, attach the electrical connection and put the door back together the opposite way you took it apart and TADA - you're done. I timed my final one - took me 8 minutes from start to finish to remove the door, install the speaker, and put the door back together. Super simple.
timvracer
Member
It's been said many times... new speakers, LHR or whatever, don't really matter. It will NOT suddenly make your audio sound great. To get great sound in the Tesla, basic needs are for a new subwoofer, separate amps, crossovers, and better tweeters. the woofer is the biggest help, with proper amplification and tuning. I know lots of folks love the LHR stuff, I am sure they are fine speakers, but it is basically solving a non-problem IMO
BTW, I need to re-state my experiences. Since upgrade a month or so ago, I am now able to hear much better quality (including more base) for some audio tracks - not all. I think streaming services have dynamic quality changes based on time, place etc so some audio get downloaded with lower bit-rates and resulting quality sucks. I will test more with USB audio.
I'm going to the Reus shop tomorrow. With all the bad reviews for Light Harmonic, Rues seems like the better choice. I'm not much of a DIY-er, so having someone professionally install it would be best. T-Sportline audio upgrade sounds great, but @$10K+, that might be too much for my daily needs. How's the Rues system so far? No problems/issues?
Tech_Guy
ALWAYS IN LUDICROUS MODE! P90D>P100D Upgrade
TaoJones
Beyond Driven
Same experience here. Between Reus Audio in Orange and Extreme Autowerks in Brea, world class solutions are at hand for audio, tint, paint correction, and paint protection (whether a nanocoating or a wrap). For the audio, Reus also will make it so that the first system you buy is also your last - they’ll move it from your current Tesla to your next Tesla just for the cost of labor. And their post-sale support has been exemplary at every turn.
It’s ironic that the most costly aftermarket upgrade I’ve done so far to each Model S is also the least visible but appreciated every day nonetheless. The Reus effects are noticeable whether you start with the base or the upgraded audio from the factory.
Consider A/B testing with Can’t Kill Us (The Glitch Mob), Allemande (Peter Wispelwey, JS Bach - 6 Suites for Cello), or the 6:35 mark of In My Time of Dying by Jimmy Page & The Black Crowes live at The Greek (that last one courtesy of @buttershrimp).
Of course, you won’t want to listen to most streaming audio anymore (except for podcasts), in lieu of a proper USB SSD (I like the Samsung T5 - it’s very small) for as many FLAC or similar files as you like.
timvracer
Member
Best money I have ever spent... Between Tesla's instant torque and AP, and my Reus audio system, my commute had been transformed!
No issues whatsoever.
Tv
No issues whatsoever.
Tv
How much is the Reus system? Apparently you can't even email them without "requesting" their email address via phone.
artisjr
Member
Without getting into any great details, I received an price list three years ago, so the price(s) may be different. See attached.:How much is the Reus system? Apparently you can't even email them without "requesting" their email address via phone.
Was about to go to Light Harmonics in person last year (even had an appointment set up) but chickened out at the last minute due to all the QA issues and negative customer service experiences on the forums. Anyway, still interested in some sort of an upgrade for my S but had a random thought. Probably a dumb question, but are the amp, drivers, and/or sub from the Model X in any way compatible with the S? Reason I ask is that I really like the premium sound in the X. If the amp and/or sub in particular are drop in compatible, would that be a logical and easy upgrade?
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