Ingenext Boost Modules [aftermarket]

[SteelClouds]

How are you liking it so far? any issues with the fogs staying on/off? ambient lighting behaving better now? i'm still on the fence about ordering, need that momentous push.

Fog lights work exactly as you would expect. I swapped out my 2019 turn indicators only with unknown vintage Tesla Fog lights/running lights and turn indicators. I didnt change the wiring. I took the old out.. put the new in and plugged them in. Thats it. The bonus module turns them on when the headlights come on either automatically or manual. I can turn off the fog lights from my phone if I wish. The fog light indicator on the big screen works so the car knows they are on. Just no button on the big screen. I can live with that

Ambient lighting is a mixed bag. They do work.. ie.. they come on as expected. I had my settings locked to manual which mean they never dimmed. They do dim whenI dim the screen brightness so they are "working" as Tesla defines working.. which I think is a bogus design. My screen and ambient lighting should be separate controls. But thats not the point here

I also use the seat heater controls. I bought the Tesla upgrade but its very nice that the folks in the rear seat can now control their own heating by the window buttons.

I think the wiper control is very awkward so I dont use it. We dont have a lot rain here in CA so if I lived somewhere different, I might feel differently.

I have not tried the auto frunk open or door open etc..

I will say getting the module in was a royal PIA. I didnt pull the glove box out which I think might be a better bet next time. Getting my hand up and behind the cable while trying to keep it unlocked was rough. I ended up using a piece of wooden stir stick to push up on the connector while compressing the lock with my hand. Then trying to get the new connector in was a test of all my current swearing knowledge I had to bend the cable into a J and then careful position it and push it in place. That push is hard because it has to be exactly square with the mate and its pretty much impossible to see it from below so it's all by touch.

I saw YouTube video where someone removed the entire glove assembly and was able to get it from the top.. I think that may be the smarter way. Maybe

 

[coolmanfever]

for those of your installed Boost module to improve acceralation, do find yourself losing more range during winter driving below freezing level?

 

[VanGuy]

In performance terms the only thing they can do is lie to the car about which pre-existing model it is.

So if you have an LR AWD with the P motor (as they all were in 2018 and part of 2019) their mod can tell it it's a P. Or the other mod can tell it the owner bought acceleration boost. Or the third one can tell an SR RWD car it's really an LR RWD.

If you already have a P there's nothing faster to tell the car it is.

Hi there, sorry to jump in halfway into the chat...I had posted a different thread asking about the front motors on the Model 3 LR and whether they were different physically from the P front motors on new vehicles. What you're saying is that they were all the same, but now the P actually has a different front motor? And it's a physical difference not just gated behind firmware/software?

 

[Knightshade]

The motors I'm discussing in the post are the rear motor.

All Model 3s used the 980 rear motor from 2017 through part of 2019.

If you have an LR AWD with the 980 it's physically the same car as a P3D- (the P without the 20" wheels and bigger brakes) and thus with this SW hack you can trick it into performing like one.

There's also now apparently a 780 rear motor but AFAIK it's only been spotted on a couple of china-made cars and wasn't in the US catalog last I checked- nobody seems entirely sure what its deal is other than speculation it's got the hairpin windings.


As to the front motor, at least on US cars, there's still only 1 in the catalog and it's been the same one (the 960) since the Model 3 was introduced (different revs, 960-a, 960-b, etc.... the current one as of this post is 960-H....but always 960)

 

[VanGuy]

The motors I'm discussing in the post are the rear motor.

All Model 3s used the 980 rear motor from 2017 through part of 2019.

If you have an LR AWD with the 980 it's physically the same car as a P3D- (the P without the 20" wheels and bigger brakes) and thus with this SW hack you can trick it into performing like one.

There's also now apparently a 780 rear motor but AFAIK it's only been spotted on a couple of china-made cars and wasn't in the US catalog last I checked- nobody seems entirely sure what its deal is other than speculation it's got the hairpin windings.


As to the front motor, at least on US cars, there's still only 1 in the catalog and it's been the same one (the 960) since the Model 3 was introduced (different revs, 960-a, 960-b, etc.... the current one as of this post is 960-H....but always 960)

Thanks for the reply!

Yep, understood RE: rear motors.

And my reasoning for the question is due to an off-handed comment I saw in a teardown/comparison video that said something about the front motors being made of Copper as opposed to Aluminum for the P front drive unit in the 3.

Thanks again. I recently signed up and this site is great. Wonderful community thus far (compared to Reddit lol)

 

[Bizzwhizz]

So I think I found an answer about the ambient lights that I didnt know.. I will test tonight and verify. But I have not found this in the owners manual yet. My screen was set to manual. When I set to auto I could see the lights dim I think.. it was broad daylight so hard to tell.

"With Ambient turned on, and headlights turned on, the ambient lights do vary with the MCU brightness. "

It is not infinitely variable, however.
Here are the percentages at which it alters:
20%, 34%, 47%, 60%, 74%, 87%.

I checked mine and they do dim when going out of Park in my SR+. Didn't realise they did that.

 

[hoopsta1423]

I checked mine and they do dim when going out of Park in my SR+. Didn't realise they did that.

Also just confirming on my '19 SR+ that the ambient lights dim based on screen brightness.

 

[PauliePucks]

Fog lights work exactly as you would expect. I swapped out my 2019 turn indicators only with unknown vintage Tesla Fog lights/running lights and turn indicators. I didnt change the wiring. I took the old out.. put the new in and plugged them in. Thats it. The bonus module turns them on when the headlights come on either automatically or manual. I can turn off the fog lights from my phone if I wish. The fog light indicator on the big screen works so the car knows they are on. Just no button on the big screen. I can live with that

Ambient lighting is a mixed bag. They do work.. ie.. they come on as expected. I had my settings locked to manual which mean they never dimmed. They do dim whenI dim the screen brightness so they are "working" as Tesla defines working.. which I think is a bogus design. My screen and ambient lighting should be separate controls. But thats not the point here

I also use the seat heater controls. I bought the Tesla upgrade but its very nice that the folks in the rear seat can now control their own heating by the window buttons.

I think the wiper control is very awkward so I dont use it. We dont have a lot rain here in CA so if I lived somewhere different, I might feel differently.

I have not tried the auto frunk open or door open etc..

I will say getting the module in was a royal PIA. I didnt pull the glove box out which I think might be a better bet next time. Getting my hand up and behind the cable while trying to keep it unlocked was rough. I ended up using a piece of wooden stir stick to push up on the connector while compressing the lock with my hand. Then trying to get the new connector in was a test of all my current swearing knowledge I had to bend the cable into a J and then careful position it and push it in place. That push is hard because it has to be exactly square with the mate and its pretty much impossible to see it from below so it's all by touch.

I saw YouTube video where someone removed the entire glove assembly and was able to get it from the top.. I think that may be the smarter way. Maybe

Yeah I have experience connecting to the MCU for the Hansshow DIY audio upgrade (recommend if you don’t have it) and that is the closer of the two cables, so I somewhat know what you mean.

I believe Ingenext put the glovebox removal video up to assist in install. Albeit it Is definitely easier to get to the MCU (I would venture to guess this is how mobile service conducts MCU replacements as well) Is it just the same amount of work as trying to get that cable to fit. Supposedly if you lay upside down and put the seat back it’s a bit easier. I’m going to order mine this week. Nice to know about the rear seats, I also have the Tesla option purchased, didn’t know the controls could overlay that.

Thanks for the update!!!

 

[Mutant]

Yeah I have experience connecting to the MCU for the Hansshow DIY audio upgrade (recommend if you don’t have it) and that is the closer of the two cables, so I somewhat know what you mean.

I believe Ingenext put the glovebox removal video up to assist in install. Albeit it Is definitely easier to get to the MCU (I would venture to guess this is how mobile service conducts MCU replacements as well) Is it just the same amount of work as trying to get that cable to fit. Supposedly if you lay upside down and put the seat back it’s a bit easier. I’m going to order mine this week. Nice to know about the rear seats, I also have the Tesla option purchased, didn’t know the controls could overlay that.

Thanks for the update!!!

Laying on your back with the seat back will give you decent visibility but if you have large hands/fat fingers (like myself) the opening is too small to get your hand/fingers in position to manipulate the required connector. It took me an hour of continual attempts (with mental health breaks) before I finally got the bonus module cable mounted and I had to use things like pry tools and screwdrivers to aid in the process. Wish the glove box removal process had been documented by Ingenext back in Jan 2021. I vowed I would never remove the cable again so I requested a Bypass module from Ingenext so that I can remove the bonus module when taking my M3 in to Tesla for service without having to remove the cable. Also a mitigation in case I am impatient with car software updates and something doesn't work, I can revert to bypass module in place of bonus module.

 

[rlb4]

Laying on your back with the seat back will give you decent visibility but if you have large hands/fat fingers (like myself) the opening is too small to get your hand/fingers in position to manipulate the required connector. It took me an hour of continual attempts (with mental health breaks) before I finally got the bonus module cable mounted and I had to use things like pry tools and screwdrivers to aid in the process. Wish the glove box removal process had been documented by Ingenext back in Jan 2021. I vowed I would never remove the cable again so I requested a Bypass module from Ingenext so that I can remove the bonus module when taking my M3 in to Tesla for service without having to remove the cable. Also a mitigation in case I am impatient with car software updates and something doesn't work, I can revert to bypass module in place of bonus module.

Is that bypass module available for everyone? Your experience sounds like mine and I pray that I never have to remove the cable again either.

 

[Mutant]

Is that bypass module available for everyone? Your experience sounds like mine and I pray that I never have to remove the cable again either.

The bypass module is part of the installer/dealer kit on their website. I made a request through their contact us link on the website and they setup a special link for me to purchase just the bypass module which is an OBD connector with 2 wires jumpering 2 pins each (bypassing CAN bus I assume). I believe I paid $15 USD for the unit. The person that set this up for me at Ingenext was Remi. I just tried the link they sent me and it is now a different custom module so I suggest you contact them to create a new link for purchasing. I wish they would just offer it as part of standard kit. Note when changing between Bonus module and Bypass module best practice is to fully power down car (disconnect 12 V battery and disconnect connector under rear seat). I always keep it in my glovebox in case of issues or needing to take car into Tesla service.

 

[SteelClouds]

Bypass module.. yep.. Thats a must have here too.. I will be reaching out to them. Thanks!

 

[SteelClouds]

Laying on your back with the seat back will give you decent visibility but if you have large hands/fat fingers (like myself) the opening is too small to get your hand/fingers in position to manipulate the required connector. It took me an hour of continual attempts (with mental health breaks

Yep.. seat all the back and me on my back with the feet hanging outside. Very awkward. I would suggest some fingerless vinyl gloves to protect your wrists.. mine ended up marked pretty good from the sharp edges under the dash. O just wrap some paper surgical tape which is probably a better and more durable choice now I think about it. Short stubby fingers will be challenged

 

[coolmanfever]

can anyone link me to online instruction on how to install boost 50 on a 2019 model 3 SR+? like a youtube video? Wanna to see how easily it is to install by myself before buying the module. thanks

 

[SteelClouds]

can anyone link me to online instruction on how to install boost 50 on a 2019 model 3 SR+? like a youtube video? Wanna to see how easily it is to install by myself before buying the module. thanks

They have the instructions on their website.

 

[coolmanfever]

They have the instructions on their website.

website instruction only shows installation for 2021/2022 model 3. Is installation for 2019 model 3 SR+ the same as newer model? Thank you.

 

[SteelClouds]

The only difference is just like the Bonus module.. and that is how to shut down the car. For the 2019, do it from the main screen. For the newer M3, the process is different and they detail it. But getting to the MCU and all that is the same. Picture 2.1B is pretty accurate

 

[Stellavator]

The bypass module is part of the installer/dealer kit on their website. I made a request through their contact us link on the website and they setup a special link for me to purchase just the bypass module which is an OBD connector with 2 wires jumpering 2 pins each (bypassing CAN bus I assume). I believe I paid $15 USD for the unit. The person that set this up for me at Ingenext was Remi. I just tried the link they sent me and it is now a different custom module so I suggest you contact them to create a new link for purchasing. I wish they would just offer it as part of standard kit. Note when changing between Bonus module and Bypass module best practice is to fully power down car (disconnect 12 V battery and disconnect connector under rear seat). I always keep it in my glovebox in case of issues or needing to take car into Tesla service.

Where does this go, and what does it do?

 

[Mutant]

Where does this go, and what does it do?

The bonus module (and supplied cable harness) is installed between the ICU (Integrated Control Unit which contains both MCU and main ECU) located on passenger side by the glovebox for LHD model 3/Y and the main bus line. This allows the bonus module to read and modify certain controls on the bus. In the case of SR+ this allows the ability to unlock functions that are locked out such as rear heated seats or more recently control powered line for fog lights. The other function I primarily use is the ability to remove warning message associated with missing bluetooth TPMS on my winter tires. Other available functions are listed on Ingenext website.

When installing bypass module you are effectively restoring factory (effectively just cable) interface so that modifications to bus no longer occur.

 

[Froog]

The bonus module (and supplied cable harness) is installed between the ICU (Integrated Control Unit which contains both MCU and main ECU) located on passenger side by the glovebox for LHD model 3/Y and the main bus line. This allows the bonus module to read and modify certain controls on the bus. In the case of SR+ this allows the ability to unlock functions that are locked out such as rear heated seats or more recently control powered line for fog lights. The other function I primarily use is the ability to remove warning message associated with missing bluetooth TPMS on my winter tires. Other available functions are listed on Ingenext website.

When installing bypass module you are effectively restoring factory (effectively just cable) interface so that modifications to bus no longer occur.

When you remove the Bonus module from a Model 3 with a heat pump (to upgrade the firmware), do we have to shut down everything (hard reset procedure) or a soft shut down(with the screen shut down function) is safe?