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Is the “Performance” Version Really Worth the Cost?

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I reserved a performance MY but now am 95% sure I will downgrade to the LR AWD version once I am contacted to finalize my configuration. Why? Two reasons:
  1. Like the Model 3, it appears as there will be no hardware difference between the PAWD and the AWD version when it comes to motors, cables, connectors and inverter. If someone like me chooses the PAWD without the upgraded wheels, brakes and suspension, there is no difference between the PAWD and the AWD versions of this car. It is all controlled by software. I am assuming the top speed between these extras and the PAWD is another software setting.
  2. Tesla remotely turned off the self-driving capability of a used MS. What would stop Tesla from turning off the performance package to a new owner? The instance linked is not the first instance of Tesla doing these “audits” and arbitrarily determine to deactivate a feature.
Let me first give kudos to Elon and team for truly changing the paradigm of buying a car. Now Tesla can streamline production and greatly increase the profit with the simple switch of software. For tesla there is no difference between engines like there would be for a plain old Macan and a Macan S, so the production line must move much more quickly.

However, charging $8k for a 1.3 second increase in speed which is entirely controlled by software Is the most expensive second of my life and thus too expensive for me. I was looking at obtaining the PAWD for upgraded (more durable) motors, cables connectors and inverters. My decision for this build was factoring resale value. As it appears it’s the same hardware, I am essentially paying for speed via software, which is overpriced at this point IMHO.

Anyone who follows Tesla closely knows that prices fluctuate and early adopters have often been burned by drastic prices changes. At one point the PAWD Model 3 Sleeper was only a 2k upgrade. It is now 8K. Will prices change back to 2k for a PAWD version once the first 100k vehicles are made, or once the production of the standard range version commences?

Furthermore, I am concerned about resale value. Tesla’s actions of disabling features on used cars concerns me. Will this become the norm, where the PAWD version of the car must be unlocked yet again? This is not the first time that Tesla has disabled features on a used car and I am concerned it will become the norm and thus lower resale values so that the 8K difference between the PAWD vs the AWD I fork out will be negated and each cars value will be the same unless you upgraded the entire package with wheels, brakes etc.

At this time I can see no rationalization for paying $8k for 1.5 seconds. This car is quick enough without it. Do you think paying $8k for performance version of a car is worth it when there is nothing physically different between the motors, battery connectors, cables and inverters?
 
There are a few more changes between versions and up until the recent changes, all of the performance enhancements were already included. One thing is that many if not most MYP preorders are going to get theirs first.

I personally have the same view as you in that the Performance variant is not worth it.

For the owners losing their FSD, go read up, in most cases it was third party sales that got the car first. Not saying it wasn't shady or
buts it's realistic that the original sales price from Tesla to the third party dealer wasn't correct.
 
Not sure if there is a definitive answer for OP's question, I'm thinking it may depend on one's background maybe? For example I am (was?) an old school ICE enthusiast. Had Mustang Cobras, Camaro SS's, Mustang GTs, Grand Nationals (three of'em), 914 and 911 Porsches, a couple of more sedate BMWs and Audis in my older age, etc.

The overall commonality to them regarding their straightline performance was, it cost a lot of money to make them go just marginally faster because it required expensive hardware changes, not to mention the cost and expertise of labor. This is not the case with EV's ... or at least Teslas anyway.

But it does seem rather mercenary of Tesla to know they can just do it with the click of a mouse, without the time, trouble or expense involved in adding any hardware.
 
i chose NOT to order the performance version. 4.8 seconds to 60 is fast enough for any driving i do. and today i confirmed it by test driving a standard range RWD model 3, which would be even slower (5.3, if you can even imagine a tesla that slow LOL). it was quite responsive enough for me. and last year they apparently offered just a speed increase to model 3 owners for $2k. so as is pointed out, there will be other options, and the other hardware upgrades did not appeal to me.
 
...
  1. Like the Model 3, it appears as there will be no hardware difference between the PAWD and the AWD version when it comes to motors, cables, connectors and inverter. If someone like me chooses the PAWD without the upgraded wheels, brakes and suspension, there is no difference between the PAWD and the AWD versions of this car. It is all controlled by software...
That is not what I understood... PAWD on M3 and MY has upgraded beefier rear motor and I thought cabling too.

Yes... There were some model S that had beefy motor but weren't sold as performance but then got performance upgrade via software but that is not the case for M3 or MY AFAIK.
 
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There are a few more changes between versions and up until the recent changes, all of the performance enhancements were already included. One thing is that many if not most MYP preorders are going to get theirs first.

I personally have the same view as you in that the Performance variant is not worth it.

For the owners losing their FSD, go read up, in most cases it was third party sales that got the car first. Not saying it wasn't shady or
buts it's realistic that the original sales price from Tesla to the third party dealer wasn't correct.

While, I agree that some people may be spouting BS, I suggest you go look in this forum wherein people are complaining about losing upgrades..
Lost FSD earlier this week

What is disconcerting to me is that Tesla put the onus on the end-users to provide proof that they were sold the upgrades. Moral of the story, always keep your receipt.

Additionally, the dealer in the Jalopnik story stated that Tesla removed the ludicrous mode on a P+ that was given to his father.
 
Lol people pay 100s of thousands for fractions of a second...if you think 8k overpriced think again.

The only people that pay 100’s of thousands would be NASCAR, formula 1 and some rich people from the likes of Saudi Arabia or Texas oil tycoons. Realistically people pay 10’s of thousands for extras performance. However, they all buy physical parts. My point is that for 8k all you get is modified code with the same hardware. The cost of the software just isn’t worth it FWIW IMHO.
 
That is not what I understood... PAWD on M3 and MY has upgraded beefier rear motor and I thought cabling too.

Yes... There were some model S that had beefy motor but weren't sold as performance but then got performance upgrade via software but that is not the case for M3 or MY AFAIK.

Can you please provide documentation of this from your car or pictures of the “beefier” motor vs the standard AWD motor? I’ve been looking all over and haven’t found anything. What I’ve found thus far is that there is no physical difference between the P3AWD and 3AWD when it comes to part number, so from my vantage point, until I see documentation of the parts, it’s all software from my perspective.

I would love to be wrong, because then I would keep my performance order. But not if there is zero hardware difference on motors, inverter, cables and connectors.
 
Can you please provide documentation of this from your car or pictures of the “beefier” motor vs the standard AWD motor? I’ve been looking all over and haven’t found anything. What I’ve found thus far is that there is no physical difference between the P3AWD and 3AWD when it comes to part number, so from my vantage point, until I see documentation of the parts, it’s all software from my perspective.

I would love to be wrong, because then I would keep my performance order. But not if there is zero hardware difference on motors, inverter, cables and connectors.

I will have to find it, but someone did confirm that the part numbers were different between the 2 motors. I believe wiring and something else was different. In the end, whether they are the same or not, I cannot see them removing the Performance out of the model, especially if you choose the optional upgrade (I'm not sure why someone wouldn't.) We dropped our FSD to order the P and quite excited about it. To each, their own I guess.
 
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At this time I can see no rationalization for paying $8k for 1.5 seconds. This car is quick enough without it. Do you think paying $8k for performance version of a car is worth it when there is nothing physically different between the motors, battery connectors, cables and inverters?

There have been times you could buy the "performance" upgrade w/o the hardware on the 3 for $2k. (2018 and Aug -> Dec 2019). I have no need for the performance but for 2k (and it being in stock) I jumped w/ no hesitation. I do not regret it.

For 8k, with or without the extra hardware, i wouldn't consider it for a second. IMHO its priced for people who really like the looks or people who want a track toy that may also be every day driver.

With the hardware 8k seems reasonable (just not to me).
 
Can you please provide documentation of this from your car or pictures of the “beefier” motor vs the standard AWD motor? I’ve been looking all over and haven’t found anything. What I’ve found thus far is that there is no physical difference between the P3AWD and 3AWD when it comes to part number, so from my vantage point, until I see documentation of the parts, it’s all software from my perspective.

I would love to be wrong, because then I would keep my performance order. But not if there is zero hardware difference on motors, inverter, cables and connectors.

I don’t have it at hand, but it is listed in the manual. Ah, this: RWD and Performance AWD: 800A Non-performance AWD: 600A. There is more, look it up.
 
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I don’t have it at hand, but it is listed in the manual. Ah, this: RWD and Performance AWD: 800A Non-performance AWD: 600A. There is more, look it up.

Found the full page:
Screenshot_20200210-182759_Drive.jpg
 
When I bought my X the difference in price was 17K for the Performance with "free" ludicrous. I got LR. To get the Ludicrous performance one has to lower the suspension, preheat the battery for what, 20-30 minutes, must be a high SOC and then can get the extra performance.

What is tempting about the 8K add for performance in the Y is it is just there. Anytime, assuming high enough SOC, one can floor it and be gone without loud noise and copious smoke. I am old enough that I do not bend well so I would not get the additional lowering, red brakes, aluminum pedals and all. But my smile would still be there as I watched my rear view mirror for the other cars.

Ya, should have gotten over the need for speed by now. Also 71.
 
I'm wrestling with the decision discussed in this thread as well. I'll probably spring for the actual Performance (non-PUP) version *if* there are verifiable motor differences. If there's not; I'll probably try to figure out if they'll offer the 'acceleration boost' to LR AWD trims like they did with the 3's a while back.

My SA state's there is a difference, FWIW. And @iustin's screenshot also tells me there is a difference (on the 3, anyway).

This my first Tesla experience, so I'm trying to be patient. :) $60-70K is a lot of money -- so I'd feel much better if I had enough info to feel like I'm making an 'informed' decision. But I'm learning this purchasing experience may a bit opaque compared to what I'd prefer.
 
People seem to need to justify on forums their decisions as to their configurations. Reality is that it is a pretty personal decision, and that some will think it expensive, others will consider it a bargain.

Forever, ICE vehicles have offered "performance" versions of their cars. Most do not pay the $ extra, as for them, it is not worth it and the base car is adequate. For others, the money is not as important as getting the excitement of the Turbo version, bigger tires and lower suspension.

Buyers need to go down their own path, and there is no need to shame others for going down their own, but different path.
 
Just because the usually exceptionally high costs associated with ICE performance variants correlated to higher mechanical costs and more parts, to me doesn't mean that necessarily 'justifies' the higher cost. To me it just means that technology takes a hell of a lot more matter to achieve incremental gains in output.

As many have noted things like this and come down to a matter of your perspective. Is $6K - or less when baking in the other P+ features - too much for a software switch? To me it's not. What kind of expertise and R&D went into that capability? How does it measure up to its vehicle class overall? Again, just my own thought process, but when you can drive a $65K MYP+ that in many ways in what matters to me will put a $90K Macan to shame, why not consider it a value and go for it?

To each his or her own and steak or lobster when it comes to experience and value with Model 3 and Model Y. Good on Tesla for having the better mousetrap while the rest of the industry continues to milk ICE margins and step on their own dicks.
 
>>So the question I still have: Is this difference in amps the result of a larger motor or software?

That's what I'd like to know too!

I agree with the "it shouldn't matter whether it is a hardware or a software update if you are prepared to pay the $$$ for it anyway" - BUT if the cost could change later (downwards ?!? - like it did on other models at one time) then why sign-up to $8K now?

Simplified SKU management can save them a lot of money - only have one common rear motor makes a lot of sense for amortized cheaper manufacturing costs.

BTW I still am in two minds on the 'Free' brakes, wheels, suspension upgrade - if I could get the brakes without the lowered suspension (and avoid pothole unfriendly 21" wheels) then that would be good...

I find it kinda amazing that there isn't a more definitive answer to this simple question (at least on recent M 3's) ... at least that I could find