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I was traveling for a few weeks and couldn't capture April, so I combined it with May. My usage always goes higher after road trips due to Utah's 80mph speed limits between cities. February is the only month I haven't taken a trip.
Monthly:
Year Month Wh/mi Distance Wheels Model State Tires
2015 January 397Wh/mi, 2916.6 Miles, 19 only, P85D, Utah, Michelin XICE XI3
2015 February 344Wh/mi, 2688.6 Miles, 19 only, P85D, Utah, Michelin XICE XI3
2015 March, 352Wh/mi, 2112.9 Miles, Mixed, P85D, Utah, XICE3 + PS2
2015 April+May, 352Wh/mi, 2409.4 Miles, 21", P85D, Utah, PS2
Lifetime:
363Wh/mi, 10128 Miles, mixed, P85D, Utah, Mixed
Monthly:
Year Month Wh/mi Distance Wheels Model State Tires
2015 January 397Wh/mi, 2916.6 Miles, 19 only, P85D, Utah, Michelin XICE XI3
2015 February 344Wh/mi, 2688.6 Miles, 19 only, P85D, Utah, Michelin XICE XI3
2015 March, 352Wh/mi, 2112.9 Miles, Mixed, P85D, Utah, XICE3 + PS2
2015 April+May, 352Wh/mi, 2409.4 Miles, 21", P85D, Utah, PS2
Lifetime:
363Wh/mi, 10128 Miles, mixed, P85D, Utah, Mixed
They must be driving 65 or less on highway and probably mostly highway in fair weather and mostly flat terrain. i.e. optimal condition with slow driving. That is my take. I think most can expect to be around 300-350wh/mi range even in optimal weather like in CA assuming you don't drive like a grandma.
In moderate temperature weather, on rural roads with minimum traffic, few stops and average speed in the 45mph range it's not all that hard to get in the 280-290 range. Lower takes some effort. Even not trying I often get in the 290 range in weather in the 70s-80s F range.Trying (AC off, really watching acceration, feathering the pedal for maximum coasting to stops, minimizing braking, thoughtful route choice, I can, on a good day, get in the 250-260 range on my mostly rural 11 mile trip to work route. How some of these guys get sub 250 lifetime...it's beyond me and I consider myself a good hypermiler. I'm currently 307 lifetime...depending upon the weather this summer, that may creep down to 306, but with 53,000 miles on the car the lifetime numbers don't move a lot.
Sparrow
S105/ Roadster 189
Precooling and/or preheating helps a lot too. Driving on familiar roads where you know the terrain and traffic light patterns is also important.
I'll probably start an argument with this, but....
I kind of consider precooling / preheating "cheating the meter". If the trip meter(s) included the preheating/cooling costs (and then it was amortized over the trip duration in the UI) it would be a different story.
It's kind of like not making note of a significant decline in elevation (like driving down a mountain) when reporting "efficiency" for a leg of a trip.
Sparrow
S105/ Roadster 189
brianman I agree it is a form of cheating to use precooling/preheating to drive the Wh/mile down especially when the car is not plugged in, but that is Tesla's fault for calculating it that way. Getting into a precooled car is a luxury that I enjoy and is not something I endure to get better Wh/mi. On the other hand the question would remain if Tesla did count that energy in the Wh/mile would I still precool. I would certainly do it less than I do now and I would endure a hot car to some extent to get better Wh/mile results.
Point of clarification:
It's totally valid and usually smart to precondition from a comfort and range maximization perspective. I just have quibbles with the metering and reporting of low numbers that are "juiced" by preconditioning.
FLDarren
Member
My averages go up when I'm driving with a lot of other traffic. It's incredible how inefficient they all drive. Gun it only to have to slam on the brakes for a red light a few hundred feet ahead. Morons. I'm not able to drive how efficient I want to. When I'm driving with little to no traffic, my efficiency soars. Being able to put the car in a neutral like state with the pedal really helps along with using no energy for the last thousand feet or so until an approaching red light. Ever since the regen seemed to be weaker I've noticed I have to tap the brakes a little during med to high traffic situations.
mknox
Well-Known Member
No, you're absolutely correct. That's why when I report I'll show the actual amount of energy I put in to the car as recorded by my meter. To not do so only under represents the amount of energy the car takes. Charging inefficiency is the equivalent of spilling gasoline when you fuel and the vampire losses are like a leaky gas tank. I would pay for the gasoline that I spill just as I pay for the electricity that is consumed when the car is not in motion.
Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
Now I'm confused. When I precool my car, I come to it and by the end of the parking lot at work, I have 700+ to 1k+ Wh/mi. By the time I go a couple miles, I'm back down to the high 300s to then be in the low 300s about 10 miles later. I always figured this was the precooling showing up. Also, when I charge on the 120v at home, by the end of my driveway I am at 500 Wh/mo and get down to the low 300s by the time I leave the neighborhood. I always thought that is accounting for the BMS while I'm charging (on 120v, I never finish charging).
How are your vehicles not tracking that energy use when mine appears to be?
At least in my case the remaining range also disappears fast when I start driving.
What happens is that if you drive shortly after charging the Wh/mi is very high. I believe this is due to the cooling system running when you first start driving (leveling out the cells' temperature. It's most noticeable after Supercharging. If you let the car sit for a bit, it's not nearly as high. Preheating after charge completion reduces the starting Wh/mi number.
Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
Ok, but this snippet is without being plugged in. It's when my car is sitting in the parking lot at work and I precool for about 10-15 minutes.
I understand the BMS may have needed to cool the battery, but this is NC, not AZ. I simply had thought it was taking into account the energy used to precool. I'll have to take more "measurements" and see how it goes.
Bugeater
Member
I have a P85d and got 349 wh/ mi on an 8077 mile road trip. I actually did the 217 miles between independence Mo and St Charles ( 10 extra miles with a detour) by going 60 mph on cruise control. Had 49 rated miles left and the average for that trip was 283. From Rapid City South Dakota to Lusk WY was 156 miles all uphill. I arrived with 8 miles left and the average was about 359.
hiwever, I normally don't aim for great efficiency and the car was on insane mode the whole trip
hiwever, I normally don't aim for great efficiency and the car was on insane mode the whole trip
Cyclone
Cyclonic Member ((.oO))
So I tried to do some unscientific measurements, but I'm just as confused as ever. The first photo is after charging in my garage on 120v overnight. The second photo is parking on the lower level at work and charging at 200v / 30a. In the second photo, it says it's very low but then jumps up by the time I get out of the deck. I'm getting the impression that my first quote above is really more the case. I forgot to take a picture afterwards, but I moved from the deck to parking out front (we are asked only to charge for 3 hours). My car sat in the sun for two hours and then when I got in, without preconditioning, I was at 1600 kWh. So my pack must be cooling itself and perhaps sitting stagnant even in the deck, the lack of circulation allows for heat buildup?
Anyways, to be on topic
the pics include my lifetime average since I got the car four weeks ago. Note that this includes many sprited test rides, so I'm happy at the efficiency so far!18.5 miles is my commute to work, each way.
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