Macsboost vs N2itive

[rstx]

I don't think Tesla will bless anything aftermarket. All I can say is the Macsboost camber kit is pretty low profile. I had no issues with them working on my car doing the brake kit. They directly told me that if I had adjustable camber arms like the N2itive ones they wouldn't work on my car and they would need to be removed to do the install.

They had no issue with the Macsboost kit. It doesn't scream bling like the N2itive parts do either. The grand I saved paid for a pair of tires too.

Good to know. As long as you can get it dialed in that is the goal. Im not as concerned with the $$ as long as the objective gets achieved.

 

[rstx]

They realize perfectly fine. The owner was available via phone and text immediately to address all my questions.

And their timing is awesome. Packaged like a pair of Jordans.

View attachment 973932

Thoughtfully with loctite

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For scale

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Nice if you can post up pics of your alignment specs and ride height during alignment before/after they are at would be a big help.

 

[bkcyk]

Nice if you can post up pics of your alignment specs and ride height during alignment before/after they are at would be a big help.

Ride height's not going to change. I'm keeping it stock (default on low).

There's really going to be no surprises on specs. It's going to be aligned to what's already been shared/recommended by N2itive. This is the benefit of adjustable camber arms - you can dial it in exactly. Toe is already adjustable from factory on my 2023 MSP.

Happy to share a pic of alignment sheet for the sake of transparency and forum fun.

 

[rstx]

Ride height's not going to change. I'm keeping it stock (default on low).

There's really going to be no surprises on specs. It's going to be aligned to what's already been shared/recommended by N2itive. This is the benefit of adjustable camber arms - you can dial it in exactly. Toe is already adjustable from factory on my 2023 MSP.

Happy to share a pic of alignment sheet for the sake of transparency and forum fun.

Yeah my point is the N2ITIVE specs on their FAQ page are with the suspension on Medium setting. Do you have updated alignment specs from N2ITIVE on the Low setting?

When I emailed N2ITIVE this direct question they responded with:
"Those are the only specs we have, we recommend to align it in med and set the default ride height to low and the angles are taken into consideration for the low setting."

Which is a bit confusing as you cant set the default ride height to low. It already does that and is not configurable. So they recognize the settings are different for Low than Medium.

 

[bkcyk]

I

Yeah my point is the N2ITIVE specs on their FAQ page are with the suspension on Medium setting. Do you have updated alignment specs from N2ITIVE on the Low setting?

When I emailed N2ITIVE this direct question they responded with:
"Those are the only specs we have, we recommend to align it in med and set the default ride height to low and the angles are taken into consideration for the low setting."

Which is a bit confusing as you cant set the default ride height to low. It already does that and is not configurable. So they recognize the settings are different for Low than Medium.

I've provided what N2itive recommends in the thread already. I'm going to be aligning it on low as I always drive in low on my MSP. Whether you're low or medium or jacked up high, what ultimately matters is how the tire is positioned on the road. I'm going to target -.75" camber with the adjustable arms.

I'll run your post by Don.

 

[rstx]

For clarity this is directly from the N2ITIVE site

 

[bkcyk]

Looks like their install pages need some tidying up.

It's clear you do the alignment in the setting you drive most which is in low for most Plaid owners.

 

[rstx]

Yep just for reference that link you put up is not for the camber arms you bought. Those are the older ones but ultimately I think they helped clarify.

From N2ITIVE:

"We also recommend aligning your Tesla to our specs in the medium ride height so that you won’t get any inner tire wear at any height. What we have found is that if the car was aligned at low or very low and then when raised up to the medium ride height it toes out too much. "

 

[bkcyk]

Yep just for reference that link you put up is not for the camber arms you bought. Those are the older ones but ultimately I think they helped clarify.

From N2ITIVE:

"We also recommend aligning your Tesla to our specs in the medium ride height so that you won’t get any inner tire wear at any height. What we have found is that if the car was aligned at low or very low and then when raised up to the medium ride height it toes out too much. "

Yes, thus my comment that it needs tidying up. Premise remains the same. Align in the mode you drive most (low mode for me).

Recommended alignment specs that matter (camber/toe) are the same whether you have the old arms or my SX-P2s, medium height or low. Not SpaceX science.

 

[ngng]

Yep just for reference that link you put up is not for the camber arms you bought. Those are the older ones but ultimately I think they helped clarify.

From N2ITIVE:

"We also recommend aligning your Tesla to our specs in the medium ride height so that you won’t get any inner tire wear at any height. What we have found is that if the car was aligned at low or very low and then when raised up to the medium ride height it toes out too much. "

It really just comes down to what ride height you plan on driving in. Then, you can make an informed decision about what you would like to do. There's no magic bullet. If I didn't know anything and N2 told me to align my car in medium, but I only ever drive in the default low...I'd be pissed.

 

[ngng]

Ordered the nickel plated arms and installing at a recommended by N2itive alignment shop next week - let's see what's up.

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That is a nicely machined piece of metal.

 

[bkcyk]

It really just comes down to what ride height you plan on driving in. Then, you can make an informed decision about what you would like to do. There's no magic bullet. If I didn't know anything and N2 told me to align my car in medium, but I only ever drive in the default low...I'd be pissed.

Here's about where I'm going to align my 6/2023 build in low mode. I always default to low mode, only using high to reduce probability of scraping (fully stock suspension save for the N2itive adjustable rear camber arms).

• Front camber = -1.2
• Front caster = 4.0
• Front toe = 0.10
• Total front toe = 0.20
• Steer ahead = 0.05
• Rear camber = -1.1
• Rear toe = 0.20

I'm really curious what my current alignment specs look like especially the camber and toe values. I don't want to dial out rear camber entirely as I do want a planted rear end. I want to strike a good balance between good driving stick and normal Michelin PS4S wear (i.e. 20K-25K mile rear tire life span based on personal experience with my other sporting rides).

It'd be cool to hear from others like @Sam1 who have fettled with their MSP's alignment. Gracias!

 

[ngng]

Here's about where I'm going to align my 6/2023 build in low mode. I always default to low mode, only using high to reduce probability of scraping (fully stock suspension save for the N2itive adjustable rear camber arms).

• Front camber = -1.2
• Front caster = 4.0
• Front toe = 0.10
• Total front toe = 0.20
• Steer ahead = 0.05
• Rear camber = -1.1
• Rear toe = 0.20

I'm really curious what my current alignment specs look like especially the camber and toe values. I don't want to dial out rear camber entirely as I do want a planted rear end. I want to balance out good driving stick against normal PS4S wear (20K-25K mile rear tire life span based on personal experience with my other sporting rides).

It'd be cool to hear from others like @Sam1 who have fettled with their MSP's alignment. Gracias!

What units are those?

 

[bkcyk]

What units are those?

Uh, degrees

 

[ngng]

Uh, degrees

I don't usually use degrees but your rear toe seems high. If it were my car I would try to zero toe front/rear with a slight toe out bias in the front for turn in. If you can't zero the rear, a smidge toe out is fine. Depends what kind of feel you want.

 

[bkcyk]

I don't usually use degrees but your rear toe seems high. If it were my car I would try to zero toe front/rear with a slight toe out bias in the front for turn in. If you can't zero the rear, a smidge toe out is fine. Depends what kind of feel you want.

High based on what logic? I am working off of N2itive’s recommended specs, thx.

 

[ngng]

High based on what logic? I am working off of N2itive’s recommended specs, thx.

My own street and track alignments. Like I said, it depends what you want and how you prefer your car. If you don't know, just go with their suggestions

 

[Sam1]

Here's about where I'm going to align my 6/2023 build in low mode. I always default to low mode, only using high to reduce probability of scraping (fully stock suspension save for the N2itive adjustable rear camber arms).

• Front camber = -1.2
• Front caster = 4.0
• Front toe = 0.10
• Total front toe = 0.20
• Steer ahead = 0.05
• Rear camber = -1.1
• Rear toe = 0.20

I'm really curious what my current alignment specs look like especially the camber and toe values. I don't want to dial out rear camber entirely as I do want a planted rear end. I want to strike a good balance between good driving stick and normal Michelin PS4S wear (i.e. 20K-25K mile rear tire life span based on personal experience with my other sporting rides).

It'd be cool to hear from others like @Sam1 who have fettled with their MSP's alignment. Gracias!

My adjustments are a bit different because the front spherical bushings make it much more stiff, so I have to soften it up a bit where if a car with OEM bushings did that, it would feel spongy.

 

[ngng]

My adjustments are a bit different because the front spherical bushings make it much more stiff, so I have to soften it up a bit where if a car with OEM bushings did that, it would feel spongy.

Your bushings won't affect your alignment. I didn't change the alignment on my GT3 when I swapped my rubber parts for hard parts.

 

[Sam1]

Your bushings won't affect your alignment. I didn't change the alignment on my GT3 when I swapped my rubber parts for hard parts.

They do affect the handling. We had to remove half a degree of camber on the front end because the car was too darty on a street. And every car is different, you can't compare a Porsche to a Tesla, otherwise there would be a single alignment setting that every car in existence could use.