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I’m aware of that - the end results to aim for should be roughly equivalent no? It matters not how the negative camber is removed - only that it can be set within a much tighter tolerance and closer to zero.
Point being that with the stock camber arms or shim kit the camber is not adjustable directly due to fixed camber arms. The only way to dial in the camber directly is with adjustable camber arms.


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So just about to finish up at the shop. They’re an N2itive approved shop and know Teslas.

Anyhow, they installed the Macsboost and ran into trouble with the front alignment. Suspension set to Low. The left front got to -.70 camber but the right front control arm maxed out and couldn’t go lower than -1.5.

They attempted to match the front until I could take it to Tesla and the left maxed at -1.20, further exacerbating the right side.

Anyhow, I have an appointment with Tesla. Anyone else have issues like this where the suspension can’t seem to be aligned to spec?

Final alignment sheet attached.
 

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So just about to finish up at the shop. They’re an N2itive approved shop and know Teslas.

Anyhow, they installed the Macsboost and ran into trouble with the front alignment. Suspension set to Low. The left front got to -.70 camber but the right front control arm maxed out and couldn’t go lower than -1.5.

They attempted to match the front until I could take it to Tesla and the left maxed at -1.20, further exacerbating the right side.

Anyhow, I have an appointment with Tesla. Anyone else have issues like this where the suspension can’t seem to be aligned to spec?

Final alignment sheet attached.
Any updates @RL-TheDude
 
So just about to finish up at the shop. They’re an N2itive approved shop and know Teslas.

Anyhow, they installed the Macsboost and ran into trouble with the front alignment. Suspension set to Low. The left front got to -.70 camber but the right front control arm maxed out and couldn’t go lower than -1.5.

They attempted to match the front until I could take it to Tesla and the left maxed at -1.20, further exacerbating the right side.

Anyhow, I have an appointment with Tesla. Anyone else have issues like this where the suspension can’t seem to be aligned to spec?

Final alignment sheet attached.

Shims are only installed in the rear so if you want additional adjustability in the front you'll need to install the appropriate parts.
 
So just about to finish up at the shop. They’re an N2itive approved shop and know Teslas.

Anyhow, they installed the Macsboost and ran into trouble with the front alignment. Suspension set to Low. The left front got to -.70 camber but the right front control arm maxed out and couldn’t go lower than -1.5.

They attempted to match the front until I could take it to Tesla and the left maxed at -1.20, further exacerbating the right side.

Anyhow, I have an appointment with Tesla. Anyone else have issues like this where the suspension can’t seem to be aligned to spec?

Final alignment sheet attached.
It can be evened out on the front, you can massage out a little bit of it via the existing links, and for a major number you can shift the subframe. The first alignment I had done, they had to shift the subframe because, iirc, it was a 0.6 degree variation between the left and right side. Now it's 0.1 degree variation.
 
It can be evened out on the front, you can massage out a little bit of it via the existing links, and for a major number you can shift the subframe. The first alignment I had done, they had to shift the subframe because, iirc, it was a 0.6 degree variation between the left and right side. Now it's 0.1 degree variation.

There is some adjustment but most generic alignment shops aren't willing to put the effort in to do it:
 
There is some adjustment but most generic alignment shops aren't willing to put the effort in to do it:
That's why performance shops are worth the extra $.
 
Subjectively: initially bought macboost shims in hope of easy installation and quick solution for tires premature wearing. So installation- pain in ass. Who designed those arc ?! Eventually I cut shims in two washers and asked extra hands. Installation is not for one person and not dyi friendly.
Also my rear right worn out much quicker then left, i guess camber degree is not equal between right and left, and thus shims will keep delta in degree difference at the same kevel.

N2itive sx-p2. Afraid to think even to install them as dyi. But idea to make things right overcome me. Bought them.
Quality impressive, service too. Installation is much easier - second arm by me only. Feeling after installing n2itive and shims is not the same, completely not not the same;))

my take, if you wanna right, comprehensive fix - it must be adjustable arms.
 

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Subjectively: initially bought macboost shims in hope of easy installation and quick solution for tires premature wearing. So installation- pain in ass. Who designed those arc ?! Eventually I cut shims in two washers and asked extra hands. Installation is not for one person and not dyi friendly.
Also my rear right worn out much quicker then left, i guess camber degree is not equal between right and left, and thus shims will keep delta in degree difference at the same kevel.

N2itive sx-p2. Afraid to think even to install them as dyi. But idea to make things right overcome me. Bought them.
Quality impressive, service too. Installation is much easier - second arm by me only. Feeling after installing n2itive and shims is not the same, completely not not the same;))

my take, if you wanna right, comprehensive fix - it must be adjustable arms.
Shims are a bandaid. They make the situation slightly better. Sorry you paid hundreds of bucks for that
 
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Static camber is too much in the rear of the S compared to many other performance cars. Using the shims or N2 to reduce camber is the first step. With that you should get better tire wear and better straight line acceleration because of more grip. You could loose some cornering grip in the rear at the limit, the car should have less under steer and could oversteer, again at the limit. If the car is to loose, running more toe in at the rear will tighten the car up.
 
Static camber is too much in the rear of the S compared to many other performance cars. Using the shims or N2 to reduce camber is the first step. With that you should get better tire wear and better straight line acceleration because of more grip. You could loose some cornering grip in the rear at the limit, the car should have less under steer and could oversteer, again at the limit. If the car is to loose, running more toe in at the rear will tighten the car

the first step is to decide what’s realistic. performance? tire wear?
 
Subjectively: initially bought macboost shims in hope of easy installation and quick solution for tires premature wearing. So installation- pain in ass. Who designed those arc ?! Eventually I cut shims in two washers and asked extra hands. Installation is not for one person and not dyi friendly.
Also my rear right worn out much quicker then left, i guess camber degree is not equal between right and left, and thus shims will keep delta in degree difference at the same kevel.

N2itive sx-p2. Afraid to think even to install them as dyi. But idea to make things right overcome me. Bought them.
Quality impressive, service too. Installation is much easier - second arm by me only. Feeling after installing n2itive and shims is not the same, completely not not the same;))

my take, if you wanna right, comprehensive fix - it must be adjustable arms.
Sorry you had such an issue with the Macsboost. Mine went in very quickly and easy. It was a one person job.
 
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Finally, it happened.... I did my wheels alignment today!
New rims, new tires & new (pre-owned, but new for me) adj rear camber arms.
There was recommendation for Monrovia Alignment, but I think I found better shop. Tire Man shop at Thousand Oaks , recommended by N2itive, did alignment same day (walk-in) for $150 (Monrovia asked for $300 and booked for week).
Guy who performed alignment knows matters. I had 0 concerns, in comparison with Tesla SC, this is paradise for customer LOL.
 

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