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That's correct, the only reason I swapped mine was because the OEM had damaged threads. The OEM arms are pretty decent.
Ok, so it's a safe call to simply swap out the rear factory camber arms with the N2itive adjustable ones. I can set camber and toe and just enjoy the rocket with hopefully longer rear tire wear as I will always be running the OEM PS4S (love the tire).

Thanks, Sam!

P.S. Thread like this gives me pause
 
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You can shim or use the Macsboost camber kit and remove enough negative camber so your tires will survive. I can't afford to lower my car where I am at. When I tried running it everywhere in low to simulate how it would be with lower links, the ride was horrendous and the car bottomed out the suspension often. All that pounding isn't doing anything to keep the car feeling tight either.
 
Ok, so it's a safe call to simply swap out the rear factory camber arms with the N2itive adjustable ones. I can set camber and toe and just enjoy the rocket with hopefully longer rear tire wear as I will always be running the OEM PS4S (love the tire).

Thanks, Sam!

P.S. Thread like this gives me pause


When people have an issue they like to post about it. Then it propagates into eternity about how much of a hassle it is. Meanwhile, the 2,500 other people that didn't have any issue, never posted anything, so readers think that the modification will end up causing issues for sure with service.
 
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When people have an issue they like to post about it. Then it propagates into eternity about how much of a hassle it is. Meanwhile, the 2,500 other people that didn't have any issue, never posted anything, so readers think that the modification will end up causing issues for sure with service.
lol fair point dude

It looks like I'll be going with these updated N2itive arms.

So what toe and camber settings are y'all spec'ing on default low mode (assuming no lowering link or height modification from stock).
 
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lol fair point dude

It looks like I'll be going with these updated N2itive arms.

So what toe and camber settings are y'all spec'ing on default low mode (assuming no lowering link or height modification from stock).

Settings depend on what you want straight line racing is way different than something for a road course. Here's my current one - we had to take some camber out of the front because with the MPP spherical bushings in the front, the car was a bit too 'darty' on the street. Then to soften it up more, I switched the front tires to PSS instead of PS4S.




Screenshot 2023-09-11 at 4.16.34 PM.png
 
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Looks l
Settings depend on what you want straight line racing is way different than something for a road course. Here's my current one - we had to take some camber out of the front because with the MPP spherical bushings in the front, the car was a bit too 'darty' on the street. Then to soften it up more, I switched the front tires to PSS instead of PS4S.




View attachment 973036

Looks like you're well in spec of N2itive's recommended rear toe and camber which is in play for me. Nice!

123_1.jpeg


If -2.75 rear camber is within Tesla spec, that's freakin' nuts.
 
Looks l


Looks like you're well in spec of N2itive's recommended rear toe and camber which is in play for me. Nice!

View attachment 973058

If -2.75 rear camber is within Tesla spec, that's freakin' nuts.
And remember that Tesla alignment specs are done in medium height. So when you lower the car at 2.75°, you're going to be well over 3° in low. And when you get on to the highway there's nothing you can do to override the system. Unless you manually change the height back to medium every time you get on the highway.
 
And remember that Tesla alignment specs are done in medium height. So when you lower the car at 2.75°, you're going to be well over 3° in low. And when you get on to the highway there's nothing you can do to override the system. Unless you manually change the height back to medium every time you get on the highway.
Yeah, I manually moved my suspension back to medium each time I got on the highway, but I still wore through my tires after 10k miles. I installed the Macsboost shims last month and now run in low ride height full time. Hopefully the shims solve the problem.
 
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Yeah, I manually moved my suspension back to medium each time I got on the highway, but I still wore through my tires after 10k miles. I installed the Macsboost shims last month and now run in low ride height full time. Hopefully the shims solve the problem.
The Macsboost shims were working great for me. I am now on 20's so even less likely an issue.
 
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They look nice. If I'd had them on my car, they wouldn't have done my brake upgrade until I put the stock parts back on.

Anyone and everyone going with anything aftermarket on a Tesla should be prepared for that. Most SCs aren't mod friendly at all. Once you swap you will "own" and any issues they think it creates or parts it impacts even if substantially better than the factory.

I worked in warranty adjudication years ago for a major car company and when push came to shove, if you modded your car and we didn't want to warranty it, we'd slap the burden on you to prove your part didn't cause the issue. Tesla seems to start from the position that it is your fault and goes from there. Maybe not at all SCs but most techs are just part replacers and have no in-depth automotive knowledge. Not all are that way but most I've seen are.
 
They look nice. If I'd had them on my car, they wouldn't have done my brake upgrade until I put the stock parts back on.

Anyone and everyone going with anything aftermarket on a Tesla should be prepared for that. Most SCs aren't mod friendly at all. Once you swap you will "own" and any issues they think it creates or parts it impacts even if substantially better than the factory.

I worked in warranty adjudication years ago for a major car company and when push came to shove, if you modded your car and we didn't want to warranty it, we'd slap the burden on you to prove your part didn't cause the issue. Tesla seems to start from the position that it is your fault and goes from there. Maybe not at all SCs but most techs are just part replacers and have no in-depth automotive knowledge. Not all are that way but most I've seen are.

It was a considered decision for me to either live with accelerated tire wear due to a design shortcoming or address the issue and hope nothing goes wrong where I’ll need suspension related service while under warranty on my 3 month old MSP.

I am installing the N2itive arms post track pack brake addition to avoid any headaches at my local TSC.
 
Looks l


Looks like you're well in spec of N2itive's recommended rear toe and camber which is in play for me. Nice!

View attachment 973058

If -2.75 rear camber is within Tesla spec, that's freakin' nuts.
Just note on n2itive faq page they state to set suspension in medium first prior to alignment to these specs.

Its a bit more confusing for the X since it defaults to low and drops to low at 55 even if you manually set it to medium.

If you end up getting your alignment at medium and print your alignment specs, might be worth it to drop it to low and have them reprint your alignment specs at low.
 
They look nice. If I'd had them on my car, they wouldn't have done my brake upgrade until I put the stock parts back on.

Anyone and everyone going with anything aftermarket on a Tesla should be prepared for that. Most SCs aren't mod friendly at all. Once you swap you will "own" and any issues they think it creates or parts it impacts even if substantially better than the factory.

I worked in warranty adjudication years ago for a major car company and when push came to shove, if you modded your car and we didn't want to warranty it, we'd slap the burden on you to prove your part didn't cause the issue. Tesla seems to start from the position that it is your fault and goes from there. Maybe not at all SCs but most techs are just part replacers and have no in-depth automotive knowledge. Not all are that way but most I've seen are.
Are you implying adding shims is not modifying the suspension? Or has the SC blessed that method?
 
Just note on n2itive faq page they state to set suspension in medium first prior to alignment to these specs.

Its a bit more confusing for the X since it defaults to low and drops to low at 55 even if you manually set it to medium.

If you end up getting your alignment at medium and print your alignment specs, might be worth it to drop it to low and have them reprint your alignment specs at low.

I'm aligning it on low at this recommended by N2itive shop, thanks.

Screenshot 2023-09-14 at 6.48.05 PM.png
 
yeah lots of conflicting info, I dont think they realize those setting change in the software. that directly contradicts their own FAQ page and an email from N2ITIVE support directly. Ultimately as long as the excess camber gets removed that is the end goal.
They realize perfectly fine. The owner was available via phone and text immediately to address all my questions. 😎

And their timing is awesome. Packaged like a pair of Jordans.

IMG_3001.jpeg


Thoughtfully with loctite

IMG_2998.jpeg


For scale

IMG_3003.jpeg
 
Are you implying adding shims is not modifying the suspension? Or has the SC blessed that method?
I don't think Tesla will bless anything aftermarket. All I can say is the Macsboost camber kit is pretty low profile. I had no issues with them working on my car doing the brake kit. They directly told me that if I had adjustable camber arms like the N2itive ones they wouldn't work on my car and they would need to be removed to do the install.

They had no issue with the Macsboost kit. It doesn't scream bling like the N2itive parts do either. The grand I saved paid for a pair of tires too.