Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide

[Gauss Guzzler]

Consider a wall charger instead if you're mounting outdoors. It requires no GFCI, cord hanger, box, outlet, or weatherproof enclosure so there's a few hundred dollars in savings. Plus it's actually weatherproof, unlike the mobile charger.

 

[Sophias_dad]

Is that separate from the 50A breaker in the breaker box?

No, GFCI is built into whatever breaker you get. It will likely quadruple the cost, sadly.

Unless you only plan to use it occasionally, the UMC body itself should be protected from weather.

Here's a thread with a bunch of options. Locked NEMA 14-50 Outdoors?

Side note: I'd just get a wall charger as the previous poster suggested, but that would lock you into Tesla.

 

[brkaus]

Side note: I'd just get a wall charger as the previous poster suggested, but that would lock you into Tesla.

I use a Tesla to J1772 adapter to charge our leaf from our WC. We have a model S, model 3, and a leaf.

 

[Sophias_dad]

I use a Tesla to J1772 adapter to charge our leaf from our WC. We have a model S, model 3, and a leaf.

That's a good solution to the problem.

 

[Ostrichsak]

No, GFCI is built into whatever breaker you get. It will likely quadruple the cost, sadly.

Unless you only plan to use it occasionally, the UMC body itself should be protected from weather.

Here's a thread with a bunch of options. Locked NEMA 14-50 Outdoors?

Side note: I'd just get a wall charger as the previous poster suggested, but that would lock you into Tesla.

The UMC is 100% weather rated. The only things that I would suggest is finding in all weather in use box to install the receptacle. This way when your cord is plugged in the actual connection itself is protected from the elements which would be the only potential non-weather related piece if you just put a NEMA 14-50 receptacle into a standard electrical box exposed to the elements.

 

[tps5352]

Can someone recommend a good weatherproof outdoor enclosure that will fit the Bryant 14-50 receptacle?

Your Bryant is a good choice in receptacles. My Post # 57 in this very Thread lists two possible covers (you would still need to buy a weatherproof outlet box--they're available pretty much everywhere) that will fit a ~2.4” diameter outlet (like Bryant and Hubbell). Note that the seven covers also listed above in that post will only fit the smaller (Leviton-sized) outlets. Your Bryant is BIG and beefy (like the identical Hubbell model).

I also go on to discuss the TayMac (x-in-1) brand of outdoor receptacle covers in Posts #59 and #69 in this Thread. I later found out that they actually work great and are available at Home Depot. You simply insert the correct size plastic insert inside the cover assembly and it fits over whatever receptacle you are using--in your case the large, circular Bryant. They have a large plastic cover that can protect the (male) plug from precipitation during use.

If instead you buy a complete outdoor enclosure, be careful to get one with a circular opening that will accept the larger Bryant diameter.

BTW, the suggestion (above) to get a Tesla (or good aftermarket) wall connector is a good one for the reasons listed. Tesla Generation 3 if a 18-foot cable is long enough, Generation 2 if you need 24-feet (and you can find one new or used at a decent price).

 

[Ostrichsak]

Your Bryant is a good choice in receptacles. My Post # 57 in this very Thread lists two possible covers (you would still need to buy a weatherproof outlet box--they're available pretty much everywhere) that will fit a ~2.4” diameter outlet (like Bryant and Hubbell). Note that the seven covers also listed above in that post will only fit the smaller (Leviton-sized) outlets. Your Bryant is BIG and beefy (like the identical Hubbell model).

I also go on to discuss the TayMac (x-in-1) brand of outdoor receptacle covers in Posts #59 and #69 in this Thread. I later found out that they actually work great and are available at Home Depot. You simply insert the correct size plastic insert inside the cover assembly and it fits over whatever receptacle you are using--in your case the large, circular Bryant. They have a large plastic cover that can protect the (male) plug from precipitation during use.

If instead you buy a complete outdoor enclosure, be careful to get one with a circular opening that will accept the larger Bryant diameter.

BTW, the suggestion (above) to get a Tesla (or good aftermarket) wall connector is a good one for the reasons listed. Tesla Generation 3 if a 18-foot cable is long enough, Generation 2 if you need 24-feet (and you can find one new or used at a decent price).

Agreed on the outdoor enclosure but make sure that it's an "in-service" style enclosure. Many are outdoor rated but only when not being used. In other words, the lid closes and seals up to protect the outlet. Some of these will have a knockout on the lid for a cord to allow you to make them an in-service box but make sure that this is large enough for the cord. You can also just modify the enclosure/lid to be an in-service style enclosure if you're handy... it's not hard. I just want to clarify that there's a different between outdoor enclosure and outdoor in-service enclosure unless you modify the former to act like the latter. You basically want something that will keep water out while something is plugged in and not all enclosures fit this bill out-of-the-box and the more heavy duty they are (for something like a 50A, 240v outlet) the harder they may be to modify if not designed with in-service in mind.

We're also in agreement though that a HPWC (High Power Wall Connector) is a better solution for this application and worth the extra investment.

 

[JoJa15]

You guys have convinced me to get the HPWC. I will see what an electrician will quote for installing it. I only need to place it within 4 feet of the breaker box on the same wall. Should not be too hard. Short run of 6 gauge wire and conduit on the outside to the HPWC. Hopefully there is not a Telsa EV tax. The Nema 14-50 quotes so far have been $290-$500 for the same install location.

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

At a minimum, it should be $100 less than the 14-50 since you don't need the GFCI breaker. But you also don't need the $30 outlet, $5 box, $15 cover, a neutral wire, and all the effort of sourcing/assembling those items. So realistically it should be closer to $200 less than a 14-50.
Just print the applicable pages of the charger installation instructions and let them know you want it fed by a 60A circuit with just 2 conductors, no neutral/120V or GFCI.

 

[snikt]

I had an electrician install a 14-50 outlet for me recently in anticipation of getting my M3 soon. Then of course I stumble across this thread and it looks like I have the cheap Leviton outlet that people don't seem to like.

I'm going to use the mobile charger which uses 32 amps, is this something to be concerned about? Will probably rarely if ever unplug the charger

 

[azdryheat]

I had an electrician install a 14-50 outlet for me recently in anticipation of getting my M3 soon. Then of course I stumble across this thread and it looks like I have the cheap Leviton outlet that people don't seem to like.

I'm going to use the mobile charger which uses 32 amps, is this something to be concerned about? Will probably rarely if ever unplug the charger

View attachment 674000

I would change it out. These have a lot of overheating issues and it doesn't matter if you leave it plugged in. The connections on the back are the biggest issue.

 

[CyberGus]

I had an electrician install a 14-50 outlet for me recently in anticipation of getting my M3 soon. Then of course I stumble across this thread and it looks like I have the cheap Leviton outlet that people don't seem to like.

I'm going to use the mobile charger which uses 32 amps, is this something to be concerned about? Will probably rarely if ever unplug the charger

It will be fine in the short term. Just gift yourself a Bryant for Christmas ;-)

 

[Ostrichsak]

I had an electrician install a 14-50 outlet for me recently in anticipation of getting my M3 soon. Then of course I stumble across this thread and it looks like I have the cheap Leviton outlet that people don't seem to like.

I'm going to use the mobile charger which uses 32 amps, is this something to be concerned about? Will probably rarely if ever unplug the charger

View attachment 674000

As long as the installation was done properly you will likely never have an issue.

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

People on the internet tend to stress about stuff. Just remember that all the other outlets in your house were made by Leviton.

The "problem" with the Leviton is that the screw terminals aren't as easy to tighten, so if your electrician is a hack (as many are) you could have some terminal heating. It'd be wise to stop a 32A charge after 30+ minutes, unplug the 14-50 and check the temperature of the male prongs. The L/R prongs should be a little warm and exactly the same temperature while the top/bottom prongs should be cold.

If it checks out then you're fine. 32A is not that big a deal and is on par with your oven, dryer, etc. Just don't pile a bunch of flammable stuff against the outlet.

 

[snikt]

People on the internet tend to stress about stuff. Just remember that all the other outlets in your house were made by Leviton.

The "problem" with the Leviton is that the screw terminals aren't as easy to tighten, so if your electrician is a hack (as many are) you could have some terminal heating. It'd be wise to stop a 32A charge after 30+ minutes, unplug the 14-50 and check the temperature of the male prongs. The L/R prongs should be a little warm and exactly the same temperature while the top/bottom prongs should be cold.

If it checks out then you're fine. 32A is not that big a deal and is on par with your oven, dryer, etc. Just don't pile a bunch of flammable stuff against the outlet.

It was put in by a local electrician that specializes mostly in residential and commercial EV charging setups. On the Tesla certified list too

I could always charge at 24 amps, probably 98% of the time I don't need the faster charging

Is it "better" for heat to charge at 32 amps for shorter time or 24 amps for longer time?

 

[CyberGus]

Just don't pile a bunch of flammable stuff against the outlet.

Always good advice. Probably why we don't have 32A worth of lights in the Christmas trees anymore

 

[CyberGus]

Is it "better" for heat to charge at 32 amps for shorter time or 24 amps for longer time?

Not sure what the heat vs. power curve looks like, but it's not linear. That is, hot wires have higher internal resistance, which causes more power to be drawn, which is more heat. Below a certain level, the cables should not even get warm.

 

[Zinzan]

I had an electrician put in an outlet for me this week. He used the LeGrand, which looks to be not as good as the Hubbell or Bryant, but definitely better than the Leviton. I'm glad to see that the prong contact on the LeGrand looks identical to the Hubbell (and nothing like the Leviton), as pictured on this page: Prong Contact

I'm still waiting for my Model 3 delivery, so I'll open up the outlet sometime and make sure the wires are screwed in well. Breaker is off while not in use.

The electrician did use a 60A breaker instead of 50A, though. He said it would be fine, the Tesla Mobile Connector would never draw over 50A, yada yada, but I told him I'd be more comfortable if I had a breaker that would flip at 50A, so he's coming back to change it out in a day or two.

So, I'm new to EV charging. I don't have to set any charge rates or anything on my M3? Just set the charging limit to 60% or whatever I prefer?

 

[Ostrichsak]

I had an electrician put in an outlet for me this week. He used the LeGrand, which looks to be not as good as the Hubbell or Bryant, but definitely better than the Leviton. I'm glad to see that the prong contact on the LeGrand looks identical to the Hubbell (and nothing like the Leviton), as pictured on this page: Prong Contact

I'm still waiting for my Model 3 delivery, so I'll open up the outlet sometime and make sure the wires are screwed in well. Breaker is off while not in use.

The electrician did use a 60A breaker instead of 50A, though. He said it would be fine, the Tesla Mobile Connector would never draw over 50A, yada yada, but I told him I'd be more comfortable if I had a breaker that would flip at 50A, so he's coming back to change it out in a day or two.

So, I'm new to EV charging. I don't have to set any charge rates or anything on my M3? Just set the charging limit to 60% or whatever I prefer?

Why would you turn your breaker off every time you're not using it? Breakers are not like light switches and were not engineered to survive the amount of cycles that a typical light switch is. Secondly, your electrician needs to use the proper breaker rated for that circuit.

 

[Gauss Guzzler]

Ugh. So disappointing to read the 1000th mention of a "reputable" electrician making the simplest and most blatant of code/safety violations by flippantly slapping a 60A breaker on a 50A outlet. Dude has *one* job.

@snikt It's slightly more efficient to charge a bit faster despite the extra heat loss because of all the computer/pump overhead.