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Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide

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It also tells me he didn't get it permitted or inspected.
Two electrician companies I’ve contacted about hardwiring in my new TWC have quoted me $300 for the permit from the city. The city I live in is very permit heavy and costly. I’ve been quoted $1300 for a 25’ run of 4/2 wiring that will go partially through the attic and down the wall in my garage. 😳. I believe that includes the permit fee.
 
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I finally got my Bryant 9450FR installed. Had to switch out the box, outlet, and faceplate. Overall not difficult but had to chase halfway across town to get the right faceplate as I didn't want to wait for shipping from online vendors. More to come if it solved my overheating issues.
No issues with the new setup. I never lacked the ability to charge enough overnight but it's still great to not need to worry about a cheap outlet burning the house down.
 
If I'm planning to DIY an ESVE and trying to figure out if I should go with a mobile charger or wall charger. In the end the cost would be the same because the GFCI breaker + NEMA 14-50 outlet for the mobile charger would end up about $200. So the cost of installation + ESVE between the two would be the same. The pro of the mobile charger that I could bring it with me as an emergency backup for long trips.
 
If I'm planning to DIY an ESVE and trying to figure out if I should go with a mobile charger or wall charger. In the end the cost would be the same because the GFCI breaker + NEMA 14-50 outlet for the mobile charger would end up about $200. So the cost of installation + ESVE between the two would be the same. The pro of the mobile charger that I could bring it with me as an emergency backup for long trips.
There are endless threads in this subforum asking and answering that exact question. Spoiler alert: Everyone has a different opinion. I'd suggest digging into one of those.

My personal take is that the utility of dragging a mobile connector along on trips is questionable for most people, and the wall connector is such a better permanent solution, that it's a no-brainer to go with that.
 
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No issues with the new setup. I never lacked the ability to charge enough overnight but it's still great to not need to worry about a cheap outlet burning the house down.
From your previous posts, it looks like you had a Leviton 279-S00 that your mobile connector was giving high temperature warnings on.

This was likely due to that model having half-size steel contacts to the plug blades (look into the plug holes in the outlet). Most other outlets (whether low or high cost) have full size brass contacts to the plug blades for better connection with lower resistance and heat.

The Hubbell 9450A and Bryant 9450FR also have a wire clamping method that is easier to install and less mistake-prone than the screw-down method used by most other outlets (including the Bryant 9650FR for NEMA 6-50).

Here is the summary:

RatingPlug blade contactsWire clampExamples
Better, easier to avoid installation mistakes.Full size brassPlate clampHubbell 9450A (14-50), Bryant 9450FR (14-50)
OK, pay good attention to wire installation.Full size brassScrew downBryant 9650FR (6-50), most other 14-50 and 6-50
Marginal at >=32A due to heating at plug.Half size steelScrew downLeviton 279-S00 (14-50), Leviton 5374-S00 (6-50)
 
What are the plug blade contacts and the wire connections like? Did you have overheating at the plug or wire connections? Or some other problem?
I've got a 6-50 and 14-50, both Pass & Seymour/Legrand outlets. I don't consider them marginal at all. They have been solid performers, with screw terminals for the wire, and proper brass contacts for the plug blades. I check them regularly for excess heat, and have seen nothing.
 
My friend got his NEMA 14-50 outlet installed by an electrician for $200. For that price it's likely that there's no permit pulled and no GFCI breaker used. figured with just supply + permit it'll be $350.

I got quotes and it seems like permit is an additional charge/option which doesn't make any sense.
 
My friend got his NEMA 14-50 outlet installed by an electrician for $200. For that price it's likely that there's no permit pulled and no GFCI breaker used. figured with just supply + permit it'll be $350.

I got quotes and it seems like permit is an additional charge/option which doesn't make any sense.
Someone has to spend time creating drawings and filing for the permit. Also, someone has to meet the inspector. The electrician may also have to stop the job part way through (with walls still open) for the inspection, then come back to finish the job. All of these activities take time, which costs money.

The part that's wrong is allowing licensed electricians to quote WITHOUT these things since they are required by law.
 
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Someone has to spend time creating drawings and filing for the permit. Also, someone has to meet the inspector. The electrician may also have to stop the job part way through (with walls still open) for the inspection, then come back to finish the job. All of these activities take time, which costs money.

The part that's wrong is allowing licensed electricians to quote WITHOUT these things since they are required by law.

I would call it questionable, but not wrong. The point is, it's just stuff that takes a person's time, but that doesn't have to be someone who is certified as an electrician. The homeowner can do it, by driving to the permit office and meeting the inspector, etc. So if they want to save a couple hundred dollars, they can, and the bid is just for doing the work, while the homeowner runs the errands.
 
I would call it questionable, but not wrong. The point is, it's just stuff that takes a person's time, but that doesn't have to be someone who is certified as an electrician. The homeowner can do it, by driving to the permit office and meeting the inspector, etc. So if they want to save a couple hundred dollars, they can, and the bid is just for doing the work, while the homeowner runs the errands.
Right, given many (most?) jurisdictions allow homeowners to do small jobs like this themselves and pull a permit themselves, it always remains a possibility to hire the electrician to do only the work and then handle the permit side yourself.
 
Two electrician companies I’ve contacted about hardwiring in my new TWC have quoted me $300 for the permit from the city. The city I live in is very permit heavy and costly. I’ve been quoted $1300 for a 25’ run of 4/2 wiring that will go partially through the attic and down the wall in my garage. 😳. I believe that includes the permit fee.
I got quoted $1950 to run 10ft exterior conduit into my crawl space from the panel, then about 100ft of smurf conduit and 6# wire through the attic and then down into metal conduit and into the TWC. They added $200 when I asked for them to permit/inspect it. So $2150 for the labor and materials to install a TWC about 120ft from my breaker. Plus my cost of purchasing the TWC
 
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I got quoted $1950 to run 10ft exterior conduit into my crawl space from the panel, then about 100ft of smurf conduit and 6# wire through the attic and then down into metal conduit and into the TWC. They added $200 when I asked for them to permit/inspect it. So $2150 for the labor and materials to install a TWC about 120ft from my breaker. Plus my cost of purchasing the TWC
That would pay for a lot of time at a SuperCharger
 
Follow up about my conversation on my charging line. I just switched to a new 14-50 outlet (the recommended Cooper from the Tesla post years ago) and charged for a week, no problems whatsoever. Last night, I plug in to charge scheduled from 12am -5am. It interrupted itself last night and I got the following error codes:
500E090E-B01B-42BB-9DA7-EF740A8FC148.jpeg

So at first I thought my charging issues were my aluminum line and cheap Eaton outlet. Now I’m not so sure. For what it’s worth I also updated yesterday, but Tesla app said it was complete well before it was started charging.

Now I have no clue what the problem is, but I do have a service apt. Before I head in, any veterans have an inkling as to what’s going wrong?
 
Follow up about my conversation on my charging line. I just switched to a new 14-50 outlet (the recommended Cooper from the Tesla post years ago) and charged for a week, no problems whatsoever. Last night, I plug in to charge scheduled from 12am -5am. It interrupted itself last night and I got the following error codes: View attachment 852620
So at first I thought my charging issues were my aluminum line and cheap Eaton outlet. Now I’m not so sure. For what it’s worth I also updated yesterday, but Tesla app said it was complete well before it was started charging.

Now I have no clue what the problem is, but I do have a service apt. Before I head in, any veterans have an inkling as to what’s going wrong?
A quick search:
Not charging! **FIXED**
One post says it's the connector under the rear seat being loose. Another just turned off the breaker at their panel and turned it back on and issue was gone. Some suggest a full reboot.