Pretty basic stuff at this link (and I assume it's accurate) but does state Tesla "cords" have a cgfi built in.
Home Charging Wiring Guide | TeslaTap
Home Charging Wiring Guide | TeslaTap
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Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide
- Thread starter gilscales
- Start date
davewill
Active Member
Actually you kind of need something that can hold the main body of the mobile connector as well. It isn't weatherproof. One could even build a wooden enclosure if they liked.
srs5694
Active Member
I've seen both claims by people who've used the Mobile Connector in inclement weather for months or years with no problems and claims that Mobile Connectors have failed when used regularly in this way. I don't have numbers about failure rates, though. As you say, Tesla makes no claims as to the weatherproof nature of the Mobile Connector, whereas they do claim a NEMA 3R weather rating on the Wall Connector, so the latter should hold up to the elements quite well. If the EVSE must be installed outside, my own preference is to get one with its own NEMA 3R or NEMA 4 rating and hard-wire it. I'm not an electrician, but my understanding is that this is the best way to do it. If you're trying to cut costs and use the Mobile Connector, then I agree that you should buy or build an enclosure for the whole thing, preferably something with a NEMA 3R or NEMA 4 rating. I have no pointers to specific products, though, since I've never researched them myself.
eprosenx
Active Member
Good point.
I was speaking from a code standpoint, I suspect an “in use” cover would likely be required (I don’t have a reference to cite off the top of my head though- new houses do even require in use covers in my area on 120v circuits so I suspect the same is true for 14-50’s). NEC does not cover what happens after the receptacle generally.
But you are totally correct from a practical standpoint. I would want to protect the Mobile Connector.
This is one of the many reasons I advocate for the Wall Connector. Mine is flawless and it sits outside in the sun and rain in Oregon.
The UMC and wall connector both put off some heat so I would not try to seal them up completely. Keeping them dry and secure so someone doesn't take them is important.
Regarding the Hubbel vs other 14-50, the Hubble is definitely better but sadly the Hubble 6-50 isn't like the 14-50. I have two and they seem to work fine on 30A though.
Regarding the Hubbel vs other 14-50, the Hubble is definitely better but sadly the Hubble 6-50 isn't like the 14-50. I have two and they seem to work fine on 30A though.
Advice requested.
To help myself better understand Tesla car charging, I've made myself an Excel spreadsheet containing whatever charge-rate information for the U.S. Models X (LR & Perf.), S (LR & Perf.), and 3 (LR, Perf., & SR) I could find. The table includes places for (1) volt, (2) amp, (3) kilowatt, (4) mrph, and (5) time-to-recharge values for each of the seven model-types--this for (a) on-board charger itself, (b) supercharger, (c) wall connector (hard-wired), (d) wall connector (14-50 vers.), (e & f) Gen 2 mobile connector (5-15 and 14-50 vers.), and (g) corded mobile connector. I'm still learning, so some of it may not make sense.
But key information affecting final charging rates appears to include (a) battery size, (b) type of on-board A/C-to-D/C charger, and (c) any applicable charge-rate maximum cap from within the home charging system components (circuit breaker; wiring; wall outlet/connector; and/or mobile connector).
Thanks and Happy Holidays.
To help myself better understand Tesla car charging, I've made myself an Excel spreadsheet containing whatever charge-rate information for the U.S. Models X (LR & Perf.), S (LR & Perf.), and 3 (LR, Perf., & SR) I could find. The table includes places for (1) volt, (2) amp, (3) kilowatt, (4) mrph, and (5) time-to-recharge values for each of the seven model-types--this for (a) on-board charger itself, (b) supercharger, (c) wall connector (hard-wired), (d) wall connector (14-50 vers.), (e & f) Gen 2 mobile connector (5-15 and 14-50 vers.), and (g) corded mobile connector. I'm still learning, so some of it may not make sense.
But key information affecting final charging rates appears to include (a) battery size, (b) type of on-board A/C-to-D/C charger, and (c) any applicable charge-rate maximum cap from within the home charging system components (circuit breaker; wiring; wall outlet/connector; and/or mobile connector).
- Has this already been done? Is up-to-date comparative information available somewhere?
- If not, is this worth sharing on this Forum? If so, where? (I'm thinking the Model S "Battery & Charging" discussion area, as having the biggest readership, but maybe better under Model 3?)
- Best way to present the info?
- Directly in post by using HTML code (primitive and tedious)? (Compare with Tesla Owners Online forum [Tesla Owners Online] that provides a more convenient table-creation function).
- Upload completed Excel spreadsheet file directly into post? (Too big? Too hard to read?)
- Upload graphics file (screenshot) of the spreadsheet into post? (Too hard to read?)
- Readers directed to a file stored somewhere online? (I'd prefer not to introduce another webpage.)
- Other?
- Directly in post by using HTML code (primitive and tedious)? (Compare with Tesla Owners Online forum [Tesla Owners Online] that provides a more convenient table-creation function).
- Is there a way to make a post-table permanently interactive so it can be updated? (Right now my posts can be edited, by me, only for a short time.)
- I see that there is a "save draft" function when creating a post. But I do not see any kind of "return to unfinished draft" choice when you save, exit, and later return to the Forum.
- Other suggestions or advice?
Thanks and Happy Holidays.
I used an Enerlites receptacle with a 2 gang deep box and cover plate from HD. Seem fairly decently made. It's only been a little over a month but I leave the mobile connector plugged in.
I've not noticed any heating issues. Now, after reading this thread, I'm wondering if I need to swap out the receptacle.
https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-Re...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
I've not noticed any heating issues. Now, after reading this thread, I'm wondering if I need to swap out the receptacle.
https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-Re...9Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=
This
G4438388
and this
Hubbell Wiring Device-Kellems Single Receptacle Plate, 2 Gang, Silver SS701 | Zoro.com
Less than $50
Mostly previous ideas/comments from this Thread:
May come down to cost, perhaps. After reading this valuable Thread, for peace of mind I replaced my similar (2.1" diam.) $10 Leviton with a (2.44") Hubble 9450a--cost $45 brand new in box (w/hardware & papers) on eBay with local pickup (I lucked out). But I see the big Hubbles going for $100+. That's too much (imo). Right now (12/03/19) you can get a (new, open box) Bryant 9450fr for $39 (w/shipping) or used Hubbell 9450a's for $38 (w/shipping) on eBay. That's worth it, I think. (I assume you used #6 wiring and a 50-amp (GFIC?) breaker backing up the 14-50 receptacle?)
If you do upgrade, one caution: Hubble makes a much less expensive (~$15), trade-level receptacle (RR450F) similar in size and (I assume) quality to the Leviton. If you look closely, you can see that, similar to the Leviton's, the (top) ground blade hole is much closer to the edge of the black thermoplastic (=smaller diameter). Avoid that and watch out for misidentified Hubble receptacles. (Normally price is a clue to Hubbell 14-50r identity.)
Starting with an adequately deep 2-gang box gives you a leg up (I started with a 1-gang box)--should be easier for you to swap in a larger Hubble/Bryant and a new cover-plate.
And you will probably have to get a new cover-plate to fit the larger diameter receptacle; sorry. Check out Post #s 57 and 59, Page 3 above, for suggestions. After further consideration, I am going to try out the low profile, expandable, lockable, METAL MX7280S cover by Hubbell-TayMac (possibly available to order from Home Depot or Lowes, as well as on eBay and Amazon). This is an "in-use" cover that I hope can be locked with the 14-50 plug still attached, for added security and weather protection. It uses inserts to allegedly fit up to 55 different receptacles. There is also a deeper 55-in-1 metal cover--MX6200--that will also take up to a 2 7/16" diameter receptacle.
Good luck.
YES and YES! (For a cover I was [erroneously?] focusing on an outdoor installation...)
Black306
Active Member
Or just 3D print an outlet cover.
This is for a Bryant 9450FR. Thinking about uploading the file to Thingiverse.com. If anyone is interested, let me know.
WIBD. Neat. So do you have to start with a retail product item that you somehow scan/copy, or can you go to a library of pre-existing public-domain or for-purchase 3-D CAD files somewhere and look items up? So this process is for any topologically-simple part/object that can be made of plastic? Different grades and shapes of plastic to start with, I assume?
Black306
Active Member
No, you don't have to start with a retail product. I did measure a Leviton cover plate for a rough overall square (technically a rectangle) size to make sure it covers a 2-gang box. Other dimensions came off the Bryant outlet; center hole size, through-holes for the cover plate-to-outlet screws, and provisions for the outlet-to-gang box screw heads. Filet edge was a design choice.
One of the cool things about 3D printing is that you're only limited (for the most part) by your imagination.
srs5694
Active Member
There are several sites on the Internet that host free designs (both in cost and in the sense that many designs are open source). The most popular of these seems to be Thingiverse. You can go there and search out designs that others have created and that you can print, provided you have access to a 3D printer. This can be a good way to get started, if you're interested. You can go there and search on "Tesla," for instance, to find things of interest to a Tesla owner. (This search will also turn up busts of Nikola Tesla and lots of things you probably don't care about, even if they are related to Tesla vehicles!) Personally, I printed a center console tray similar to this one. (The one I printed is an earlier variant.) I also designed one item I designed myself -- see below.
What @Black306 has done is to design a new part. This can be done with any of several 3D design programs. Broadly speaking, these are the equivalent of 2D "paint" programs, but they generally work by building a design out of component shapes, like cubes, spheres, and cylinders. If you design something, you can (but do not need to) upload it to Thingiverse or some other site for others to use. You can begin creating such designs with minimal skill or knowledge, but it'll take some practice before you get good at it, just like using a 2D design program.
FWIW, I've uploaded several designs to Thingiverse myself, including an adapter so that a Tesla charge plug (or J1772 adapter) can be held by a J1772 holster. I designed this because I drove a Chevy Volt before my Model 3, and I'd bought a Clipper Creek J1772 EVSE for the Volt that I kept using with my Tesla. I bought a dedicated adapter to keep with the EVSE at all times, but I wanted to be able to mount the combination in the J1772 holster that came with the EVSE, so as not to have to plug/unplug it every time I used it. My adapter lets me do that. It's the sort of specialized problem that can be solved by 3D printing. Granted, there are other possible solutions, like replacing the J1772 holster that came with the EVSE with a Tesla holster; but the Clipper Creek holster is pretty deep and therefore rain/snow-resistant (mine is mounted outside), which is not true of any Tesla holster I've seen.
If you're curious about 3D printing, try searching on YouTube for reviews. Here's a recent video with some recommendations of machines to buy:
I ended up putting a draft table of comparative charging information here:
Home-Charging Rates Table for late-2019 Models X, S, and 3
Use copper if you can.
Sheathing is easy to cut. Just run blade down the length, parallel to wires and then peel it off.
the wire is copper. the sheath/cover is aluminum. typically requires a rotary cutter
Thanks for this. Do you think there is any benefit at all in going with the Hubble part instead of the bryant? I will not even be using this as a primary charging method... I have a wall connector for that. I am having (2) Powerwalls installed, and want a 14-50 outlet on the Powerwall backup side, as I am not going to have the wall connector on the backup side due to it being 60 amps.
Black306
Active Member
Or just 3D print an outlet cover.
View attachment 484338
This is for a Bryant 9450FR. Thinking about uploading the file to Thingiverse.com. If anyone is interested, let me know.
FYI, I did upload it to Thingiverse.com. Enjoy!
Bryant Outlet Cover by Black306
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