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Master Thread: Definitive 14-50 NEMA Outlet Guide

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I installed two 50A circuits for charging using 6ga Romex. I bought 2X Tesla v1 EVSE capable of 40A. While charging at 40A I put my hand on the Romex in the attic and it was surprisingly warm/hot. I stopped charging at 40A. Turns out I am now using ~11A and I never have problems keeping the car charged.
 
Sorry if this has been asked before, I tried searching the forum but couldn’t find the exact answer. So I just had a NEMA 14-50 put in by an electrician. They ended up putting in 50 Amp breaker but used Romex 8 gauge wire. I know know that we should technically use 8 gauge Romex only with 40 amp. However, I plan to
I see too often in many posts not saying whether the cables installed by electricians are made of copper or aluminum. This is pretty important to know. I know copper wires have higher current capacity than aluminum wires using SAME AWG wires.

I believe generally speaking in typical residential homes, 8 AWG COPPER wires should be able handle 50 AMPS circuit breaker circuit meaning when using the wall connector should be running at 40 AMPS maximum. 8 AWG aluminum wires should be able to handle 40 AMPS circuit breaker circuit meaning the maximum current for Wall Connector is 32 AMPS.

Currently, I have a circuit using 8 AWG wiring circuit connecting to a 6-50 wall outlet in the garage that uses aluminum wires and the circuit breaker is 40 AMPS for the last three years without issues with my wall connector. I built a pigtail from wall connector to 6-50 wall outlet and works just fine. Wall connector is set to 32 AMPS.

Peter
 
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So I just had a NEMA 14-50 put in by an electrician. They ended up putting in 50 Amp breaker but used Romex 8 gauge wire.
That is really straightforward. That's a 40A circuit. 8 gauge Romex simply has a 40A maximum rating. It can't be a 50A circuit and can't have a 50A breaker. That is an allowed case to have the 14-50 outlet type, but it's still a 40A circuit.
 
A slient reader who wants to give back the community.

I wanted to install mobile charger with 14-50 outlet at my garage. Armed by information from this thread, I began the search for the middle of the ground Bryant NEMA outlet for the cheaper price. Searching by the 9450FR model number for the outlet, led me this page from Grainger https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-Receptacle-Single-49YY93 which confusingly has the correct model number the wrong amp in the title (14-30 instead of 14-50). So I went with GoVets who had it for 50$ Receptacle Black 50A 3.0 HP 3 Poles MPN:9450FR . And to my surprised arrived the next day (on Saturday none the less) from the Grainger (haha) and it was the same listing (matched by listing number) but the outlet was the perfect 14-50 Bryant plug.

When my electrician came he compared the Bryant with his Hubbel and both were exactly the same from the naked eye.

The only minor nitpick was the gang box is big enough that it keeps the connector away from the wall and thus I can put the connector holder flush with the wall. I will jig up something that backs up the gap.
 
If you don't want to demand changing the installation of the wire, at least ask the electrician to swap the 50 Amp breaker for a 40, and he shouldn't complain. My electrician installed a perfectly-legal 60 Amp breaker on #6 Romex and was happy to come back and replace it with a 50 to keep the customer happy.
 
That’s what I pointed above. Even though the title says 14-30 on the website, it’s a typo, it’s actually 14-50.
Oops, I came back to this thread and was happy to provide a source for a cheap plug. A day late! But yes, another confirmation it's the right product, and showed up in 2 days with $10 shipping.

My guy is going to use wiring for 60a but breakers for 50a. In the short term it will be cheaper than moving things around on my crowded breaker panel to allow some sort of 30a/60a combo breaker he was talking about.

He is a family friend and I trust him implicitly.

I am surviving on the 120v for now and getting over the range anxiety slowly but surely.
 
Oops, I came back to this thread and was happy to provide a source for a cheap plug. A day late! But yes, another confirmation it's the right product, and showed up in 2 days with $10 shipping.

My guy is going to use wiring for 60a but breakers for 50a. In the short term it will be cheaper than moving things around on my crowded breaker panel to allow some sort of 30a/60a combo breaker he was talking about.

He is a family friend and I trust him implicitly.

I am surviving on the 120v for now and getting over the range anxiety slowly but surely.
Now, I re read my reply, it does sound curt, apologies! Glad that it worked out for you. Maybe Grainger is keeping that typo deliberately?
 
TheBloodBag, I didn't take it that way, and was just being silly in my response. All good.

So my electrician saw my Bryant and recommended we use what he brought. It was a Midwest U054P that includes a cover for outdoor use.

He said he could use the Bryant but the flush mounts have less room to work and he had no enclosure/faceplate.

So while he was installing I saw a review on the Midwest that said it came with a Leviton receptacle but they used to come with Eaton. Luckily mine has an Eaton.

This post below has a picture AND the Home Depot link with a reviewer that said his came with a Leviton.


Anywho, thanks to the OP for getting this info out there. I might return the Bryant unless someone here wants to buy it from me.
 
Leviton can be OK. It helps a lot to use Ferrules.
The Leviton 279-S00 outlet for 14-50 has only half size steel contacts to the plug blades (versus full size brass contacts that other outlets have). This increases resistance and heat at high currents, no matter how careful the installation to the screw-down wire clamping on the back side is done. Screw-down wire clamping is not the issue if installed carefully, but nothing can be done about the less conductive contacts to the plug blades.

Most non-Leviton 14-50 (and 6-50) outlets have screw-down wire clamping and full size brass contacts to the plug blades. The Hubbell and Bryant 14-50 (but not 6-50) outlets have an easier-to-install-correctly wire clamping that is nice to have, but not absolutely required.
 
One Tesla owner posted a photo of a sign and outlet cover on Facebook that he 3D printed. I recommended that he upgrade to one of the industrial outlets recommended by Tesla. He said that it was a Hubbell. I pointed out that he had the residential-grade RR450F and not the industrial-grade 9450A (I could tell by the dimensions and the location of the HUBBELL logo). Some of the differences I noticed between the RR450F and the 9450A/9450FR are:

  • Housing material - "plastic" vs. "reinforced thermoplastic polymer"
  • Box terminals - tin-plated aluminum vs. brass
  • Terminal torque specification - 25 in-lbs vs. 75 in-lbs
  • Wall plate diameter - 2.12" vs. 2.48"
  • Country of origin - China vs. USA

Just a friendly reminder that Hubbell/Bryant and Cooper both make residential and industrial grade NEMA 14-50 receptacles, so it's important to make sure you're using the correct model from each brand. :)

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Well, that's crafty! :)

We got a new Epilog laser engraver at work a few weeks ago. Unfortunately, it arrived with a faulty laser tube that died during the initial test run. After we get it repaired, I might engrave the Tesla logo and electrical ratings on my SS faceplate.
 
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Here is my sub-panel status: 125A max panel size, main cut off breaker for sub panel is 90A.

1. Do I have option for 30A addition ?
  • The breakers will need to shuffle to add room for dual-30A : move the bottom 20A to the right with corresponding wiring ?
  • The main wires, #1/0 wiring size, correct ?
2. If 30A breaker is not possible, we should have room and capacity to add 20A breaker, correct ?

3. My alternate is utilize the dryer 30A for overnight charging.

TIA,
-ev-
 

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