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Model 3 12v battery dead

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This seems to be the best strategy.
1. Hide a 12v A23 battery behind the tow access cover, so you can open the frunk if your car's 12v is dead.
2. Keep a battery jump starter in the frunk, to allow you to start the car and drive to a service center,

This seems like too much work for something that will probably never occur.

And if your battery dies suddenly, there is a very big chance that a battery jump starter won't be able to raise the voltage enough to get the car started because at that point the 12V battery will be acting like a giant current sink.

If the car stopped charging the 12V battery, there's a good reason. Charging a battery that failed leads to bad things happening.

AND, EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO ACCOMPLISH CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED WITH A HELPFUL STRANGER WITH JUMPER CABLES.....
 
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I stopped at this location yesterday to try and get a quick charge on my way home but only got 34 kW! I wasn’t sharing stall and the location was about half full. What’s up with that?

I believe the Cody pin on the Tesla SuC map was removed. I wish they would try Greybull as an option. Even if just seasonal with a couple portable units in the Void area. We love tent camping up in the Big Horns but Sheridan is on the wrong side for us with little to no L2 options either any where near where we stay up on US16 Alt.

It would really nice to have a charger between Laytonville and Eureka to split that 112 mile gap..... Such as Garberville or Benbow or Garberville. Then again if CCS1 adapter ever gets released then the CCS stations at Benbow and One Log House could be used.

How long does an A23 or 9V stay fresh, stuck behind the tow eye cover?
I would just replace it on your birthday.
 
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If 12V battery means, rotten egg smell, only the small battery not the battery that fuels the car.

I went on the Tesla App or called Tesla, they picked up the car same day and got a battery swapped right away. No money charged, it was still under warranty at the time, car was still about 2 years old, under 3 years old.
 
This seems like too much work for something that will probably never occur.

And if your battery dies suddenly, there is a very big chance that a battery jump starter won't be able to raise the voltage enough to get the car started because at that point the 12V battery will be acting like a giant current sink.

If the car stopped charging the 12V battery, there's a good reason. Charging a battery that failed leads to bad things happening.

AND, EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO ACCOMPLISH CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED WITH A HELPFUL STRANGER WITH JUMPER CABLES.....
It really isnt much work, it's going to take about 5 minutes to hide a battery, and a lot of people already own battery power packs as it is way more convenient than having to ask a stranger. You can buy them at costco for less than $100.

Living in Vegas, the desert heat ruins lead-acid batteries in general and isn't limited to Tesla. It definitely isnt rare for them to suddenly have no power without warning.

If you dont live in the desert heat, you are probably right though, it might be pretty unlikely.
 
Not unless you leave the car unlocked. The frunk will only jump open if the 12v battery is dead or the car is unlocked.


A better idea is to put an A23 battery in a ziplock and stick behind the tow hook cover. That's what I did and I've tested to make sure it works. The A23 battery is a tiny 12v battery that's used in my keyfobs.
so how did you test the A23? you disconnected the 12V first?
surprising that such small batteries can provide sufficient current to pop open the frunk, with the A23 being less than half the size of a 9V, therefore less than half the current output.... it appears that standard alkaline 9V are about 500maH whereas A23's are 50-100maH. So quite a bit less current output from an A23.

(anybody know the current required to pop the frunk?)
 
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so how did you test the A23? you disconnected the 12V first?
surprising that such small batteries can provide sufficient current to pop open the frunk, with the A23 being less than half the size of a 9V, therefore less than half the current output.... it appears that standard alkaline 9V are about 500maH whereas A23's are 50-100maH. So quite a bit less current output from an A23.

(anybody know the current required to pop the frunk?)
I tested it by unlocking my car and popping open the frunk 3 times. If I ever have issues with the A23 not putting out enough current, I can use 2 in parallel because I put 2 behind the tow hook cover in a ziplock bag. They come 2 to a pack and 2 for perfectly behind the tow hook cover.
 
This seems like too much work for something that will probably never occur.

And if your battery dies suddenly, there is a very big chance that a battery jump starter won't be able to raise the voltage enough to get the car started because at that point the 12V battery will be acting like a giant current sink.

If the car stopped charging the 12V battery, there's a good reason. Charging a battery that failed leads to bad things happening.

AND, EVERYTHING YOU WANT TO ACCOMPLISH CAN BE ACCOMPLISHED WITH A HELPFUL STRANGER WITH JUMPER CABLES.....
Hey are you still making the USB-C retrofit adapters?
 
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so how did you test the A23? you disconnected the 12V first?
surprising that such small batteries can provide sufficient current to pop open the frunk, with the A23 being less than half the size of a 9V, therefore less than half the current output.... it appears that standard alkaline 9V are about 500maH whereas A23's are 50-100maH. So quite a bit less current output from an A23.

(anybody know the current required to pop the frunk?)

I tested it by unlocking my car and popping open the frunk 3 times. If I ever have issues with the A23 not putting out enough current, I can use 2 in parallel because I put 2 behind the tow hook cover in a ziplock bag. They come 2 to a pack and 2 for perfectly behind the tow hook cover.

Could the leads in the tow hook cover just signal the hood actuator and it’s really getting the power from the cars 12v battery? I think it really needs to be tested with the 12v disconnected, to see if the a23 has enough energy to power the hood actuator, if your 12v was truly dead. Has anyone tested it with a dead/disconnected battery?

As far as a jumper battery. I picked up the Hulkman 85, came shipped with 75% SOC. Tested it on a g35x with a completely dead battery and it started right up. I‘d imagine it would do the job closing the contactors on a Tesla.
 
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Could the leads in the tow hook cover just signal the hood actuator and it’s really getting the power from the cars 12v battery? I think it really needs to be tested with the 12v disconnected, to see if the a23 has enough energy to power the hood actuator, if your 12v was truly dead. Has anyone tested it with a dead/disconnected battery?

As far as a jumper battery. I picked up the Hulkman 85, came shipped with 75% SOC. Tested it on a g35x with a completely dead battery and it started right up. I‘d imagine it would do the job closing the contactors on a Tesla.
No - it gets power from emergency leads. I've tested it - others on here have, too.
 
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No - it gets power from emergency leads. I've tested it - others on here have, too.
Yeah, I had this question also, as it is surprising to me that a tiny A23 battery (50-100maH) has enough juice to power whatever solenoid pops the frunk open. Already it is surprising that a 9V battery (500maH) has enough, but its somewhat more plausible. Does a zinc-carbon (non-alkaline) 9V have enough juice to work? They are typically rated at 400maH, a bit less than alkaline, though more than the A23. But of course the internal resistance/high current discharge characteristics are different...

Some one should just measure the current (power) needed.
 
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Yeah, I had this question also, as it is surprising to me that a tiny A23 battery (50-100maH) has enough juice to power whatever solenoid pops the frunk open. Already it is surprising that a 9V battery (500maH) has enough, but its somewhat more plausible. Does a zinc-carbon (non-alkaline) 9V have enough juice to work? They are typically rated at 400maH, a bit less than alkaline, though more than the A23. But of course the internal resistance/high current discharge characteristics are different...

Some one should just measure the current (power) needed.
The reason the A23 or 9V battery put out enough current to work is that the frunk latches are not normal electromagnetic solenoids that directly pull on the release cable. They are actuated by an electric motor that is geared down to pull a steel cable. I'm pretty sure there's a worm gear in there. But my point is that not a lot of torque (and therefore current) is needed because of the mechanical advantage of the gearing. If you pay attention from right by the frunk latch when you pop it open, you will hear motor noise for a fraction of a second before it unlatches.
 
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Apologies if this is in the wrong section but I wanted to see if anyone else has experienced this problem recently. I made a similar post on my local Model 3 group on facebook and someone else had commented they had the exact same problem just yesterday and they were still waiting for a fix from Tesla.

Long story short, my car is completely dead, doors won't unlock, can't wake from app, nothing works. Can't even open frunk with the 12v emergency release. Car just got towed and is going to the service center.

2021 SR+, less than 2 months old with <1500 KM.
 
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