Does anyone recommend good black decals to cover over the existing emblems. I’ve seen them on the previous model 3 but not the highland.
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Model 3 Highland (US) Waiting room
- Thread starter IChillinz
- Start date
curious...can you check something? at night, if you turn on the screen to full brightness, does the ambient lighting follow it and turn on bright as well? conversely, if you dim the screen, does the ambient dim together with the screen?
Delivery could’ve gone a bit smoother as the guy thought I didn’t finish paperwork and then didn’t know how to verify that my loan had already put the money through to Tesla. Mind you yesterday, some other guy called and verified all this and told me “you’re good to go”. Besides that waste of time, getting access was easy and this thing is an amazing drive! Stay strong it’s worth it and thanks for the support everyone.
Use Plasti dip. It is also peelable if you get tired of it.
I think it’s actually purposeful. If I had to guess, the same type of person to remind the teacher about a quiz or homework assignment made the argument that if the ambient lighting was too bright it would pose some absurd safety risk and that’s why it’s reduced. Frivolous lawsuits are why we can’t have nice things.
Honestly good idea. I can try that the next time I demo drive one. Or someone who actually has their car (I’m not bitter at all) can test it out.
Without knowing anything about you I’ll wager the issue is you doing one or more of the following. You’re not gentle with the accelerator. You’re not efficient with your braking using one pedal driving. You drive above the speed limit.
You’re only going to get the rated range if you drive like a grandma. But no one wants to drive their Tesla like a grandma. So most people get terrible range.
VIN Assigned this morning. @Troy VIN ending in 7288.
Order Date: 1/22
Location: Upstate NY
Original EDD: Feb - Mar
Update #1: Mar - Apr
Update #2: 2/2: Mar 13 - Mar 31
Update #3: 2/10: Mar 21 - Mar 31
**Changed order on 3/2 from Blue Ext/White Int to White Ext/Black Int**
Update #4: 3/5: Mar 14 - Mar 31
Update #5: 3/15: Mar 23 - Mar 31
Update #6: 3/16: VIN Assigned.
Update #7: 3/16: Mar 29 - Mar 31.
Long Range, White ext, Black int, EAP, 18” wheels. Taking delivery at the Oneida, NY delivery center.
Order Date: 1/22
Location: Upstate NY
Original EDD: Feb - Mar
Update #1: Mar - Apr
Update #2: 2/2: Mar 13 - Mar 31
Update #3: 2/10: Mar 21 - Mar 31
**Changed order on 3/2 from Blue Ext/White Int to White Ext/Black Int**
Update #4: 3/5: Mar 14 - Mar 31
Update #5: 3/15: Mar 23 - Mar 31
Update #6: 3/16: VIN Assigned.
Update #7: 3/16: Mar 29 - Mar 31.
Long Range, White ext, Black int, EAP, 18” wheels. Taking delivery at the Oneida, NY delivery center.
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Went to my local trsla and spoke w the advisor yesterday. Sg w white on 18’s, edd is march 28-31 on my end. On his end it had a date of April 8th. Within 50 miles of fremont.
A few thoughts come to my mind (I've got an early-build 2018 M3). When I first got the car, there were issues with the car not "going to sleep" correctly. I saw people already mentioned Sentry mode to you. If turned off @ home, that shouldn't be it. Without Sentry mode, the car should be going to sleep 30-60 minutes after you park it and walk away. A few ways you can likely tell (I'm assuming the new Highlands behave the same):
1) If you put your ear on the hood and hear a high pitched whine (fan noise), the car's awake.
2) When you open the door, if you DON'T hear a "clunk-clunk" sound (the High Voltage battery engaging), the car was awake.
Sentry mode would be the easiest answer, but if that's already off.. Are you sure all the doors are closed? Is the car locking itself (I don't know if that's a factor in going to sleep, but I assume it could be). Did you replace any electronics in the car? When I got mine, I replaced the foot wheel lights (yeah something that dumb) and those original lights had issues and confused the car into not sleeping, or deactivating the circuit.
I'd try to do a hard reboot (hold both scroll wheels down until the screen blanks and comes back). Old thinking was that you also needed to have your foot on the brake while doing this (whether that is/was ever necessary, who knows). But might as well foot-on-brake too!
Barring all of that, I'd call up Tesla and maybe prompt them to check if the car has been sleeping. They can pull that up easily while you're on the phone if you get someone willing to look.
Also, and doesn't sound like it from how you described the problem, but SHORT trips are hell on battery drain. I believe the car needs to do battery warm-up/cool-down, and that can drain a lot more than you think (and delay sleep). So if you're taking multiple short trips, that could play a role.
Oh also, the Energy app (in the car) has a "While Parked..." screen, you can check what it's saying it's using. Or take a screenshot and post it.
TL;DR: Check the Energy app in the car for the "While Parked" screen. Try rebooting. Be sure the car is locked in the garage. Give it a few hours and check if it's sleeping. Call Tesla and ask them to check if it's sleeping or to check "Phantom Drain". Whew!
I always find it so weird they have different Internal dates.
Updated EDD from March 25-31 to March 21-30! Yes!!!!
Updated EDD: March 19-28!
NJ SG AWD Black Interior
NJ SG AWD Black Interior
congrats man! Which delivery place is this? Kinda looks like Serramonte/Daly City
They had my car trucked to Stockton. I was really pushing for Dublin but I guess it was too late to change. I’ve heard serramonte has great customer service
They had me scheduled for Dublin (I'm in Alameda), but I requested Fremont in the hopes of saving a lil bit of transit time. Not sure if my car will be delivered in the parking lot right in front of the plant, or if they'll have a dedicated delivery center down the street as they did in 2018 when I picked up my OG model 3.
Anyways.....so what do you think man?!?!
Need some help with the financial gurus out here...
I will be coming out of a 2021 SR+, to a LR. I currently stand about $1,000 positive on the trade-in, and just went through the financing portion thinking that it was going to take longer than it actually did (thought maybe a week, had acceptance in less than 10 min). Because I am trading in through Tesla (surprisingly the best trade-in offer from everywhere), they put that number down as the down payment, even though I was going to put less down. Technically instead of the full down payment value of the trade in, it would only be about $1,000, not including any additional I would put down.
Any idea how the final numbers work/anyone to talk to? Unfortunately going through my local service center, three people just had blank stares on their face and couldn't give me a straight answer with financing.
Apologies if this is confusing but just trying to get the sorted in my head is leading me towards aneurysm lol
I will be coming out of a 2021 SR+, to a LR. I currently stand about $1,000 positive on the trade-in, and just went through the financing portion thinking that it was going to take longer than it actually did (thought maybe a week, had acceptance in less than 10 min). Because I am trading in through Tesla (surprisingly the best trade-in offer from everywhere), they put that number down as the down payment, even though I was going to put less down. Technically instead of the full down payment value of the trade in, it would only be about $1,000, not including any additional I would put down.
Any idea how the final numbers work/anyone to talk to? Unfortunately going through my local service center, three people just had blank stares on their face and couldn't give me a straight answer with financing.
Apologies if this is confusing but just trying to get the sorted in my head is leading me towards aneurysm lol
The positive trade-in value (the value of your trade-in less payment of any loans outstanding on that vehicle) applies towards the cost of your new Tesla, _including taxes and registration._
Since your trade-in has positive value, you don't need to put anything extra down if you don't want to. However, since you only have $1000 in positive trade-in value and taxes/registration will likely be more than that, you will likely still have a balance to settle prior to taking delivery.
Example: Your LR is $60000 all-in. You live in MA, so sales tax is 6.25% and registration is $60. (WOW.) 6.25% of $60000 is $3750; adding reg brings total cost to $63810. Your trade-in has +$1000 value, so you'll owe $62810 at delivery.
This would be the amount to request in your loan application or cut a check for.
If you're requesting a loan, because interest rates are high right now, it will be cheaper long-term to put additional money down to reduce the loan principal and interest paid over time OR request a smaller loan and pay the difference at delivery.
I hope that makes sense!
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