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Model 3 Performance/Ludicrous Waiting Room

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Picked up the car today at Scottsdale, AZ center. Pretty busy delivery day for them as they had at least 10-20 others doing the same with the various cars. Of course with my luck, everything was good except a dent on the trunk lid. Had the guy come out along with a service manager and they said to open a ticket, and they'll do the same. They'll replace the trunk lid. The guy said that it came from factory like that... Come on Tesla!

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Wow. Yeah that is crazy it made it there with that! When I was there yesterday it was pretty slow. There were only 2 others picking up at the same time (2:30). Thankfully mine was in pristine shape... at least until I curbed the rear passenger rim on the way out the parking lot LOL.
 
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For those who have tinted their cars what’s the deal with the back window tint percentage? My shop is telling me that they will only do 70% on the back glass (The whole thing) due to some heat issues cracking the glass with darker tints? Anyone else hear this? They are recommending 45% on the windshield, 15% on the doors and 70% on the back glass. It’s Xpel XR Black Ceramic film.
 
Answering you @jjrandorin but it is for @CHB12312, I got the quotes in the wrong order…(I guess/know you know this :) )

For the US M3P it is actually 55% or less (Panasonic NCA chemistry) to be sure to be below the sharp step thst reduces degradation.

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In this test, they also found the reason for the step, the central graphite peak. It is positioned at 57% true SOC, wich is thexsame as 55% displsyed SOC in a Tesla LR/P (the buffer below 0% displayed offsets the reading).


To maximize power you would like to have high SOC, and a warm battery.

So to get all out of the car, 80% + would be needed.
It is recommended to charge late, just before leavijg on the drive. This makes the battery warmer (better power) and also reduces the time at high SOC.

You should not worry too much about degradation but it might be good to know that 80% and around (actually any number above 55-60%) will give about double calendar aging compared to low SOC.

The battery in the M3P is not the battery with the lowest degradation so be prepared to loose some, specially the first year. It is normal and a part of having an EV.
You will probably be told by a lot of people that 80% is the best SOC, but they have in that case gotten bitten by the common myth that @jjrandorin wrote about.
Wow thanks for the detailed response. So let me recap to see if I understand what you're saying correctly. To most efficiently optimize and reduce battery degradation you would want to try and keep it around 50-60 SOC. However, you wont get the most performance out of the car unless you're at 80SOC +

So how noticeable of a difference are we talking if you try and keep it around 50-60 SOC as opposed to 80 SOC. I guess what I am asking is... does the benefit of keeping it at 50-60SOC to reduce battery degradation outweigh the benefits of keeping it 80SOC+ to improve performance? I mean at the end of the day, most people purchasing a M3P are doing so because they want the performance aspect and a more spirited driving experience.
 
For those who have tinted their cars what’s the deal with the back window tint percentage? My shop is telling me that they will only do 70% on the back glass (The whole thing) due to some heat issues cracking the glass with darker tints? Anyone else hear this? They are recommending 45% on the windshield, 15% on the doors and 70% on the back glass. It’s Xpel XR Black Ceramic film.
I just dropped mine off at the tint. Doing XPEL Prime XR Plus
70% windshield
15% all around including back glass
55% roof
 
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For those who have tinted their cars what’s the deal with the back window tint percentage? My shop is telling me that they will only do 70% on the back glass (The whole thing) due to some heat issues cracking the glass with darker tints? Anyone else hear this? They are recommending 45% on the windshield, 15% on the doors and 70% on the back glass. It’s Xpel XR Black Ceramic film.
This is really odd. It's all single pane standard glass. Maybe he doesn't want to cut a straight line to do half way? I want to retain the visibility at night so I only went half way up, I did this on this and my last M3P with 30%.
 
Wow thanks for the detailed response. So let me recap to see if I understand what you're saying correctly. To most efficiently optimize and reduce battery degradation you would want to try and keep it around 50-60 SOC.

The lower the SOC, the lower the calendar aging.
To safely say to reduce degradation ypu would like to be at 55% or below.
There is a very flat part between 30-55% where the calendar aging is about the same.
When I park at work (one week at the time) I try to arrive with low SOC like 10-15%. I could go lower but need to have a margin to circumnavigate an accident etc. Need to be at work on time due to rediness. Sometimes I drive the car to the store during this week, and then charge just before going home.
When I go for other trips and leave the car at home I also try to be low on SOC.
The BMS was a bit of between ~50-55K km. Ended up with 492km range on the last full charge, where as the average M3P had ~40-465km.
Out of 507 km new range, thats a considerable reduction of the degradation.
I live in a cold place which helps, but using low SOC will cut the degradation in about half.

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Calendar aging is the part that stands for the absolute majority of the degradation for the first 5-8 years.

However, you wont get the most performance out of the car unless you're at 80SOC +

So how noticeable of a difference are we talking if you try and keep it around 50-60 SOC as opposed to 80 SOC.
You would need to find that out for your self, both how much you feel the lost power from low SOC, and if it is worth it only you can answer.

At least, you would know that the battery will hold up anyway and that there is no need to worry.
I would recommend to begin with 80% daily in the M3P case, to learn the power and enjoy the car. After a while, if you like, try 55% for daily charge and see if it is ok.
I guess what I am asking is... does the benefit of keeping it at 50-60SOC to reduce battery degradation outweigh the benefits of keeping it 80SOC+ to improve performance? I mean at the end of the day, most people purchasing a M3P are doing so because they want the performance aspect and a more spirited driving experience.
I can not tell that for you.

I still use 55% on the Plaid, but that pulls descent at that SOC as well. And, if needed I charge higher and heat the battery.
 
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What is the average cost of ceramic window tinting and ceramic coating of the car?

I got a quote from a highly recommended local detailer and it seems a bit steep, but I am not familiar with pricing.

4 year ceramic coating (Applied to all exterior paint, plastic, trim, and headlights) and ceramic window tinting to all 4 windows and rear and windshield (XPEL XR Window Tint). Total after tax around $3,100

Does this seem reasonable? For reference, I am in a low to moderate cost of living area.
 
Did the speed of this thread drop off of a cliff when the LR tax credit came out?

Seemed like the speed dropped a bit when more people started getting vins / picking up their cars and "graduating themselves" out of this thread (even though they could still hang out here).
 
What is the average cost of ceramic window tinting and ceramic coating of the car?

I got a quote from a highly recommended local detailer and it seems a bit steep, but I am not familiar with pricing.

4 year ceramic coating (Applied to all exterior paint, plastic, trim, and headlights) and ceramic window tinting to all 4 windows and rear and windshield (XPEL XR Window Tint). Total after tax around $3,100

Does this seem reasonable? For reference, I am in a low to moderate cost of living area.
All glass including roof should be around $1000
Ceramic Coating with a pro only 7-9 year rated coating about $1500 unless your car is black, then it’s $1700.
 
Ditto. It cracks me up that if someone who ordered an LR a few months ago switches to a P they immediately get prioritized, ostensibly due to time. Yet we order at the front of the line and get zero priority. Please make it make sense.
I think the way Tesla sees it - that M3LR customer has been waiting a heck of a lot longer than you for an M3, so they get to start at the front of the line.

Just a guess - and no, I never had an LR reservation. I've been waiting for the P since the Highland version came out.

I do find it funny that there are LR reservations who jumped to the P... and now, there are P reservations jumping to the LR (at least in the US -thanks to the tax credit thingie). At least it's entertaining while watching my EDD slide. :)
 
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