Vendor Model 3 Wheel Fitment by GetYourWheels

[voip-ninja]

Trying to compile a list of the flow forged 19x8.5 or 19x9.0 wheels that are hub-centric to the non P model 3 hubs.

Vertini RF
Forgestar CF
Avante Garde M series

Others?

 

[BadM3Hawaii]

2018 Model 3 with 20" Vertini RF1.1 lowered on Unplugged Performance.

Size: 20x9.0 | 20x10.5
Finish: Gloss Black with Brushed Dark Tint
Tires: Michelin Pilot Sport 4S 245/35/20 | 285/30/20
Other: Hub-centric | OE TPMS Compatible | Custom Offsets available

Josh- I just picked up a 2019 Tesla Model 3 in Tesla's Red and I want these Vertini RF1.1 in Gloss Black with the deepest Concave possible. I'm considering MountainPass Performance's Comfort Coilovers so I can adjust the drop just right. Please contact me as my M3 is going to be in Tesla's hands for the next 2-3 weeks getting issues taken care of and I want to have my coilovers and wheels & Tires in my garage ready to transform this ride. Can you help?

 

[Devils son]

I think pretty common for a model 3 will be a staggered set of 8.5 in the front and 10 in the back.
With 235 on the front and around 265 in the back what would be the most agressive offset for front and rear?

Don’t you think this setup will induce understeer?

 

[N54TT]

Don’t you think this setup will induce understeer?

In general staggered will tend to understeer more than square. Model 3 especially with track mode is more RWD biased than other awd cars. For street use, spirited drives and occasional track/auto-x it’s not an issue. If track/auto-x is priority go square.

 

[Devils son]

In general staggered will tend to understeer more than square. Model 3 especially with track mode is more RWD biased than other awd cars. For street use, spirited drives and occasional track/auto-x it’s not an issue. If track/auto-x is priority go square.

I drive a LR AWD (same as DeHakkelaar) and find that the car is now very neutral, with slight understeer mid corner and some oversteer on the exit.

I am pretty sure that going to 265 in the rear while keeping 235 up front would induce too much understeer for my taste.

Haven’t been to the Nordschleife yet with the car, so this is with driving on the road in mind.

 

[DeHakkelaar]

@Josh@GYW Is it true that with a staggered set on a AWD you should keep good notice of your
circumference of the tires between front and back?

If they dont match good enough I quess you could mess up you AWD system?

And is it true that a MP3 has a 5mm offset difference with the LR non-MP3?

 

[Perry]

@Josh@GYW Is it true that with a staggered set on a AWD you should keep good notice of your
circumference of the tires between front and back?

If they dont match good enough I quess you could mess up you AWD system?

And is it true that a MP3 has a 5mm offset difference with the LR non-MP3?

I think its more to do with how wide the tires are. If you have wider tires in the back you'll get understeer. Wider in the front and you'll get oversteer. A staggered setup makes no sense from a performance perspective on a model 3 since the car is very balanced. People do it for looks knowing that they sacrifice the balance of the car. Or maybe some don't know.

I don't think the diameter of the wheel maters much and won't mess up the AWD system. It adapts. Of course diameters that deviate too much from stock will present clearance issues and there is not much clearance to play with on the model 3 so staying as close to the stock diameter is best.

It is true that wheels mounted on a model 3 with stock performance rotors will be 3mm more tucked in because the brake rotors are thinner.

 

[N54TT]

@Josh@GYW Is it true that with a staggered set on a AWD you should keep good notice of your
circumference of the tires between front and back?

If they dont match good enough I quess you could mess up you AWD system?

And is it true that a MP3 has a 5mm offset difference with the LR non-MP3?

Without getting into specific types of center diffs. Traditional ICE awd systems have center diffs and front to back circumference needs to be the same....or you could damage the diff. Depending on the type of center diff.....certain systems require tighter tolerances....and even suggest changing all 4 at the same time. Telsa doesn’t utilize a center diff as the front and rear axles are driven by separate motors. So there’s no center diff that can break.....but I’m sure you could make the electronics go nutty if there’s a drastic difference. In any event....I don’t think you’d have to go crazy changing all 4 tires at the same time.

The offset difference is pretty well documented. The rotor of the performance brakes have a thinner hat....which exposes ~3mm of the hub...hence the stepped lip that performance wheels need to accommodate. The rotor on the regular brakes has a thicker hat that actually extends ~2mm past the hub.....for a totally difference of ~5mm.

 

[DeHakkelaar]

Without getting into specific types of center diffs. Traditional ICE awd systems have center diffs and front to back circumference needs to be the same....or you could damage the diff. Depending on the type of center diff.....certain systems require tighter tolerances....and even suggest changing all 4 at the same time. Telsa doesn’t utilize a center diff as the front and rear axles are driven by separate motors. So there’s no center diff that can break.....but I’m sure you could make the electronics go nutty if there’s a drastic difference. In any event....I don’t think you’d have to go crazy changing all 4 tires at the same time.

The offset difference is pretty well documented. The rotor of the performance brakes have a thinner hat....which exposes ~3mm of the hub...hence the stepped lip that performance wheels need to accommodate. The rotor on the regular brakes has a thicker hat that actually extends ~2mm past the hub.....for a totally difference of ~5mm.

I know there is not a center diff but I meant (sychronising) electronics etc. But not to much difference between front and back should not be a problem I understand, great.

Ah sow it's indeed 5mm difference, thanks.
When shopping for wheels you never see that they offer different offsets for P or non-p.
If you want the right flush look, they should I guess.

 

[N54TT]

I know there is not a center diff but I meant (sychronising) electronics etc. But not to much difference between front and back should not be a problem I understand, great.

Ah sow it's indeed 5mm difference, thanks.
When shopping for wheels you never see that they offer different offsets for P or non-p.
If you want the right flush look, they should I guess.

Aftermarket wheels are made to accommodate more than one different type cars/makes/models. So the ones that fit model 3....will fit more than even just performance/non performance...they can fit other makes/models (off the top of my head I don’t know specifically what) Some setups may get you close to what you’re looking...some might just happen to work or some might take spacers to get exactly what you’re looking for. But to get exactly what you’re looking for without spacers....you also may have to go with wheels that are offered with custom specs....obviously at a greater cost than an off the shelf wheel. The wheels that list performance model 3 compatibility ....mostly refer to whether they accommodate the lip of the hub... not the difference in offset.

 

[P-Lo801]

Hey all, got a technical question regarding "aggressive" offsets before I pull the trigger on purchasing aftermarket wheels. The wheels i'm looking at are TSW Bathursts 19x9 et30. My car will be lowered on MPP coilovers by about 1 inch. What differences in driving dynamics can I expect between this and another wheel that's 19x8.5 with et35?

Looks-wise, I understand it will look more flush. But is there anything else I need to be wary of if i'm only using my car as a daily driver? Will I notice anything or will it effect the overall feel of the car? Any input would be appreciated!

 

[DeHakkelaar]

Hey all, got a technical question regarding "aggressive" offsets before I pull the trigger on purchasing aftermarket wheels. The wheels i'm looking at are TSW Bathursts 19x9 et30. My car will be lowered on MPP coilovers by about 1 inch. What differences in driving dynamics can I expect between this and another wheel that's 19x8.5 with et35?

Looks-wise, I understand it will look more flush. But is there anything else I need to be wary of if i'm only using my car as a daily driver? Will I notice anything or will it effect the overall feel of the car? Any input would be appreciated!

19x9 ET30 is pretty agressive on the front imo.
I guess you will hit the fender with this.

 

[P-Lo801]

19x9 ET30 is pretty agressive on the front imo.
I guess you will hit the fender with this.

Thanks, but it's already been confirmed that it will not rub against the fender, so long as I stick with a 245/40 or 235/40 tire size.

 

[Perry]

19x9 ET30 is pretty agressive on the front imo.
I guess you will hit the fender with this.

Many are using 19x9.5 ET35 square with no problems so 19x9 ET30 should be fine since it's less aggressive.

 

[DeHakkelaar]

Many are using 19x9.5 ET35 square with no problems so 19x9 ET30 should be fine since it's less aggressive.

Ok good to know, but also with an 1.5" lowered car?

 

[Perry]

Ok good to know, but also with an 1.5" lowered car?

Some of the ones I was speaking of, with no problems, have MPP coilovers with at least a 1 in. drop.

 

[DNAPoPo]

Some of the ones I was speaking of, with no problems, have MPP coilovers with at least a 1 in. drop.

I've been running 19x9.5 +30 for the past 5 months with no problem. Currently switched to 19x9 +30 in front and rears went to 19x10 +25

 

[P-Lo801]

I've been running 19x9.5 +30 for the past 5 months with no problem. Currently switched to 19x9 +30 in front and rears went to 19x10 +25

Thanks. To clarify, even with full locked turns, you haven't experienced any rubbing?

 

[P-Lo801]

Some of the ones I was speaking of, with no problems, have MPP coilovers with at least a 1 in. drop.

I see you're running 19x9.5 et35. These poke out more than 19x9 et30, correct? Do the fronts poke out noticeably?

 

[DNAPoPo]

Thanks. To clarify, even with full locked turns, you haven't experienced any rubbing?

Yup, full lock turns, no rubbing.