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My car is a November/2021 build. The rear seat thread has pretty much died down, but hearing @Grumble report it in a recent pickup is concerning as you say.

Yes, if you put the seats down it goes away. I have both a rattle and a chirp.
I wouldn't put it past Tesla to install an old part they had lying around to meet production targets.
 
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Yes, rear seats down stops it. That's how I figured out what it was. This was before I found the thread in the forums talking about it.

You'll need to turn the volume down a bit on this due to the phone picking up the road vibrations making it painful to listen to lol. You'll hear it when I wiggle the car at about 30 seconds in (video link is time stamped). Let me know if that sounds familiar.

 
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Yes, rear seats down stops it. That's how I figured out what it was. This was before I found the thread in the forums talking about it.

You'll need to turn the volume down a bit on this due to the phone picking up the road vibrations making it painful to listen to lol. You'll hear it when I wiggle the car at about 30 seconds in (video link is time stamped). Let me know if that sounds familiar.

Interesting, that sounds more "sturdy" than mine. And maybe it is just the video / audio. In my S, you can clearly hear the metal (latch) on metal (striker) contacting each other.

Listening all the way through, seems like maybe the latch just needs to be adjusted to hold the seat back firmly in place. Service also, comically, showed me how to "close" my seats to ensure it is latched. You could try that - basically you have to rest the seat on the striker and then push firmly the seat in. You can hold the headrest to see if there is a wiggle. Service said most people "slam" their seats and that causes the latch and striker to "give" a little, thus the metal on metal noise. Did not agree with them then and still do not, but willing to share as someone in the rattle thread said this did fix theirs.
 
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I wouldn't put it past Tesla to install an old part they had lying around to meet production targets.
They fixed most of my rattles...some still exist (front - behind the info cluster) and this nagging chirp. It's quite annoying - what is the cause of the chirp? Taking it back in on the 24th for a windshield replacement (the previous 2 have been warped), check the "loose" feeling steering despite plaid/sport setting, weak heat in the steering wheel, and these rattles and chirps. If I didn't get it PPF'd already ($4k cost), I might've just had them buy it back at this point....but seeing as these issues never get resolved, lol, if I want an S it just seems like the cost of doing business.
 
Interesting, that sounds more "sturdy" than mine. And maybe it is just the video / audio. In my S, you can clearly hear the metal (latch) on metal (striker) contacting each other.

Listening all the way through, seems like maybe the latch just needs to be adjusted to hold the seat back firmly in place. Service also, comically, showed me how to "close" my seats to ensure it is latched. You could try that - basically you have to rest the seat on the striker and then push firmly the seat in. You can hold the headrest to see if there is a wiggle. Service said most people "slam" their seats and that causes the latch and striker to "give" a little, thus the metal on metal noise. Did not agree with them then and still do not, but willing to share as someone in the rattle thread said this did fix theirs.
I'm an engineer by trade, so using force to solve a design problem only exposes the design problem even more lol. So yeah, I get why some people might think slamming the sht out of it would make it latch better. Physics is hard :p.

In the vid, try to ignore the background road noise. The rattle is a high pitched metal on metal knocking. At first I thought it was drive train related but it was too audible and I couldn't feel it, so I figured out it was not attached to the chassis in any way. What gave it away to start with is when I had my family in the car and they were sitting in the back, I was trying to point out the noise to my wife and I was ridiculed because it was gone lol. I was now forced to defend myself and prove that I'm not a complete moron - only partially for buying a car with 1000hp to take me to the grocery store.
 
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They fixed most of my rattles...some still exist (front - behind the info cluster) and this nagging chirp. It's quite annoying - what is the cause of the chirp? Taking it back in on the 24th for a windshield replacement (the previous 2 have been warped), check the "loose" feeling steering despite plaid/sport setting, weak heat in the steering wheel, and these rattles and chirps. If I didn't get it PPF'd already ($4k cost), I might've just had them buy it back at this point....but seeing as these issues never get resolved, lol, if I want an S it just seems like the cost of doing business.
Oooo, I have a thought for you. Last night, I was heading out to my tennis match in the loaner and when I approached the car, I heard this horrible shriek noise when the door handles came out. I found out that the front passenger side door handle was making contact somewhere either with the body or inside the mechanism. I got out my good ole WD40 and went around the outside of the door handle. No more aching teeth. It was really bad. I wonder if it could be related to what you're hearing with the "chirp". I don't know about that one so don't know where people are hearing that from.
 
Oooo, I have a thought for you. Last night, I was heading out to my tennis match in the loaner and when I approached the car, I heard this horrible shriek noise when the door handles came out. I found out that the front passenger side door handle was making contact somewhere either with the body or inside the mechanism. I got out my good ole WD40 and went around the outside of the door handle. No more aching teeth. It was really bad. I wonder if it could be related to what you're hearing with the "chirp". I don't know about that one so don't know where people are hearing that from.
In the dryer climes, WD40 is a four letter word, as is "duct" tape.
 
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WD40 is not for lubricating the door handles - it is for water displacement so it will not turn to ice inside the handle area. (WD40 = Water Displacement formula number 40)
True, but supposedly is a lubricant as well:

Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.

Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.
 
True, but supposedly is a lubricant as well:

Myth: WD-40 Multi-Use Product is not really a lubricant.

Fact: While the “W-D” in WD-40 stands for Water Displacement, WD-40 Multi-Use Product is a unique, special blend of lubricants. The product’s formulation also contains anti-corrosion agents and ingredients for penetration, water displacement and soil removal.

Much better lubricants on the market - like the silicone you mentioned.
 
They fixed most of my rattles...some still exist (front - behind the info cluster) and this nagging chirp. It's quite annoying - what is the cause of the chirp? Taking it back in on the 24th for a windshield replacement (the previous 2 have been warped), check the "loose" feeling steering despite plaid/sport setting, weak heat in the steering wheel, and these rattles and chirps. If I didn't get it PPF'd already ($4k cost), I might've just had them buy it back at this point....but seeing as these issues never get resolved, lol, if I want an S it just seems like the cost of doing business.
All Model S windshields are warped to some degree. Just an fyi. What kind of warping are you seeing? I see obvious ripples across the windshield of any Model S refresh I’ve been in. It’s really easy to see when looking at the diagonal corner furthest from you when going round a corner.
 
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