Sorry to TF, but how does one figure out who their SA is? I dread trying to call the local SC to ask as I always end up in a phone maze over there. The last two times I ordered a car a local SA contacted me by email within days. It's been 2 months this time around with a blank EDD. Trying to really decide whether to turn in the current leased S as I await the new.
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Whatever you get, if you ca get an approved loan you can mail it to [email protected] to get them to match it (which will then be the path of least resistance AND the lowest rate... but it does require two credit pulls, at least)
The lights are not bad at all, even in dark rural areas BUT are not quite up to the high standards that some German manufacturers set.
Big flaw in your logic, Ford/Toyota/GM didn’t create the gas stations. Tesla created the SCN because no one else wanted to do it. Tesla has every right to control the network however they see fit since they took ALL the risk to build it.
AnselmDante
Porn Stunt Double
Don't even bother with your assigned SA. Just call and get through the menu till you select the New Car Purchase option. You'll get connected to the first available agent. They can track your vehicle, change your order options, and answer any questions your assigned SA can answer.
The only caveat to this is your delivery appointment. Make sure your assigned SA contacts you for that. Their may be specific requirements for your state that a random agent won't know. For me, I was supposed to bring a blank check for the DMV registration and did not know.
I think they stopped the rate matching program as of last week.
Telsa Rate Match Program Discontinued
Was discussing this in another thread, but it appears that Tesla is no longer rate matching for loans. Another posted confirmed this in-person at a SC. The Guaranteed Rate page on the website has disappeared as well. Has anyone else independently confirmed this? Likely means we will have to...
teslamotorsclub.com
Bill Price
Active Member
If 95%+ of your time is spent on highway or interstates, the #1 thing to do is to make sure your cold weather, or starting tire pressure is at maximum, which according to the tag on the driver's side door on my vehicle is 45 psi. This is the most important thing to do even if you just drive around town. Don't be concerned if you notice the pressure approaching 50 psi on a very hot day. #2 is "anticipating" stop signs and stop lights if you are not on the highway or interstate. If you can see a stop light or sign 1/2-3/4 mile away or you know you will be approaching one, let off the accelerator and modulate it so that you are neither regenerating or consuming battery power. As you get closer to the stop, modulate the accelerator pedal to regenerate battery power, showing a little green, and slow down very slowly as you approach the stop, as traffic will allow. If another driver looks like he is following you so closely that he may want to park in your trunk, you might want to rethink this technique? Basically, you can recover a LOT more battery power regenerating a little bit over a longer time than letting off the accelerator completely and regenerating at maximum for a few seconds when you are 50 feet from the stop. Using only these two techniques, I regularly achieve anywhere from 240-260 when driving at speeds 60 mph or slower and 260-280 at speeds up to 65-75 mph. I hope this helps.
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IamGaryGnu
Endless IBS
thanks, this is great stuff!
I'm wondering, it makes sense to me a jack rabbit start will hurt your MPG (or watts per mile) or whatever energy measurements we have.
I get going fast has wind resistance.
I also get that in an ICE, you rev the engine high, and it has to shift gears and maybe there are losses there.
I'm not sure why/what happens in an EV - I imagine more current/amperage draw - maybe in an inefficient way?
Then we should have regenerative, which is not 100% recapture but something.
I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts or musings as to why and what. and watt. thanks!
d1ez3
Member
For those who have their cars, when did your VIN come relative to your EDD? Mine is 10/24 - 11/04. Assuming that is real, when is a realistic timeframe to expect a VIN?
add me to invite for November onwards please
GrnSqrl
LR,blk/blk,19”,rcd 8/25;VIN4392; only waited 235d
On 8/7, I got a date range of 8/21-9/4 after being blank for months. I got the VIN on 8/13 and took delivery on 8/25.
I would be happy to show my LR to anyone who is north of Baltimore in MD. DM me.
AnselmDante
Porn Stunt Double
This conversation happened between a coworker and I. It's going to take awhile before everyone realizes what Tesla pulled off this year.
AnselmDante
Porn Stunt Double
I have family in Baltimore. I expect to be down there for the weekend in a few weeks.
Bill Price
Active Member
As I said, tire pressure is paramount. Don't be complacent and NOT check the tire pressure at least every week! Check it more often if you have temperature swings up or down 10° or more. I have found that just 1 psi pressure lower (44 psi) to have a detrimental effect on the wh/mile. And 1 psi higher cold tire pressure could have a detrimental effect on tire wear, although you might see higher wh/mile. I think we all know that incorrect tire wear will have a much more negative effect on our wallet than the positive effect of lower wh/mile. Almost forgot, in my earlier post, I mention anticipating stops while NOT on the interstate and to regenerate battery power a little bit over a longer time. While ON the interstate, anticipate that off ramp! It's the perfect time to regenerate a little over a long time by keeping the meter in the "green" as you slowly decelerate approaching the ramp and while on the off ramp. Again, try not to hinder traffic that may be behind you as you apply this technique.thanks, this is great stuff!
I'm wondering, it makes sense to me a jack rabbit start will hurt your MPG (or watts per mile) or whatever energy measurements we have.
I get going fast has wind resistance.
I also get that in an ICE, you rev the engine high, and it has to shift gears and maybe there are losses there.
I'm not sure why/what happens in an EV - I imagine more current/amperage draw - maybe in an inefficient way?
Then we should have regenerative, which is not 100% recapture but something.
I'd appreciate anyone's thoughts or musings as to why and what. and watt. thanks!
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Pdubs
Ingesting large quantities of LSD
CZ
Yeah and as @lolachampcar pointed out, I not only decided to pay 10k for it, but have to audition to use it. Not going to lie, I’m questioning my thought process.So it's a marketing thing. It has all the tools to do it, but doesn't because that costs $10k. Fair enough. Right before the light, traffic stopped. I was behind another car so AP stopped and started again with traffic. It knew it should stop at the light, but basically said "You didn't pay for this. Hit the brake or I'm running you into the intersection."
Pdubs
Ingesting large quantities of LSD
I’ll take care of youI really, really, despise someone today.
pac_
Member
"let's see" lmao we've already seen, we're seeing, we saw.
Bill Price
Active Member
Not actually true. You have to audition to use the beta version, not the full blown version, if ever that comes out in our lifetimes. If one paid for FSD, one will not have to pony up again for the actual product.
pac_
Member
Fair point there on ownership, but that's kind of the point. I don't believe that the feds will allow Tesla to box out competition in the long run regarding charging, even if they own the charging infrastructure. I think they'll deem it "not in the best interest of consumers" and, like @AnselmDante mentioned, require compatibility in charging ports so that charging networks are fungible.
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