There is a second one, the white piece of paper you see underneath the fuse is hiding the second one.
Last edited:
-
Want to remove ads? Register an account and login to see fewer ads, and become a Supporting Member to remove almost all ads.
There is a second one, the white piece of paper you see underneath the fuse is hiding the second one.
Looks to me like the whole left side (feed) is changed. It should be an exchange and reinstall, not new fuses.
mitch672
Active Member
Very impressive redesign, now I have to wonder what Tesla will do with the older units that are being replaced?
If anyone from Tesla is reading this, I have several suggestions:
1) this one is the most obvious, remove the Tesla specific cable & connector and re-use it on a new unit, if the cable ends up too short, offer a slightly discounted model with say a 23' cable assembly.
2) offer the older HPWC's on the "Tesla Online Store", at a deep discount. State they are only good up to 60A, or even 40A, sell them at near or slightly above the portable charging cable, this will be great for owners who only have a single onboard charger, but would like a fixed installation with a 25' cable.
3) (this is my favorite option): remove the cable assembly's and offer them to OpenEVSE builders, who will build their own high power EVSE, this option eliminates the older EVSEs from the market, but recovers the cost of the most expensive component for Tesla, this eliminates Teslas liability on the older units, since they are just reselling the cable / connector component.
I also would like a close up of the writing on the cable, so far I have gleaned this:
2 conductors 6AWG - Red and Black for the power
1 conductor 8AWG - Yellow w/Green stripe, this is for the ground
2 conductors 18AWG - Yellow and Violet, this is for the J-1772 Pilot and 3.3V to the "Proximity" wire, used to run the RF transmitter when the button is pressed on the connector
Who is the manufacturer on the cable assembly? Thanks
If anyone from Tesla is reading this, I have several suggestions:
1) this one is the most obvious, remove the Tesla specific cable & connector and re-use it on a new unit, if the cable ends up too short, offer a slightly discounted model with say a 23' cable assembly.
2) offer the older HPWC's on the "Tesla Online Store", at a deep discount. State they are only good up to 60A, or even 40A, sell them at near or slightly above the portable charging cable, this will be great for owners who only have a single onboard charger, but would like a fixed installation with a 25' cable.
3) (this is my favorite option): remove the cable assembly's and offer them to OpenEVSE builders, who will build their own high power EVSE, this option eliminates the older EVSEs from the market, but recovers the cost of the most expensive component for Tesla, this eliminates Teslas liability on the older units, since they are just reselling the cable / connector component.
I also would like a close up of the writing on the cable, so far I have gleaned this:
2 conductors 6AWG - Red and Black for the power
1 conductor 8AWG - Yellow w/Green stripe, this is for the ground
2 conductors 18AWG - Yellow and Violet, this is for the J-1772 Pilot and 3.3V to the "Proximity" wire, used to run the RF transmitter when the button is pressed on the connector
Who is the manufacturer on the cable assembly? Thanks
mitch672
Active Member
That's another possibility, but they would probably prefer to get them out of circulation, at least from a manufacturer point of view, they'd like these to just "go away"
I hope it's that "easy". I'd love to not have another visit from the inspector because the whole unit had to be replaced a second time. I get stress and annoyance for at least two weeks (sometimes more than a month) every time I have to deal with the "I won't coordinate via phone, email or anything but just show up randomly and not do the job because the garage door isn't open 24x7" inspector shuffle. Another reason for me to hate government involvement in my affairs.
I think you are right. I was thinking the unit at the top with the green sticker was the area where the original fuses were.
mitch672
Active Member
thanks Denarius for the picture of the cable. Looks like Damler has assisted Tesla with sourcing the EVSE cable, "Leoni" is a German manufacturer, I found the division that mfrs the electric vehicle cables, if anyone is curious:
"LEONI (UL) 105C DRY 60C WET 60C OIL 2C6AWG + 1C8AWG + 2C18AWG 600V EVE FT-1"
Charging cables: LEONI Business Unit Electrical Appliance Cables
PDF catalog: http://www.leoni-cable.com/fileadmin/leoni.com/downloads/pdf/produkte/en_elektroladekabel.pdf
"LEONI (UL) 105C DRY 60C WET 60C OIL 2C6AWG + 1C8AWG + 2C18AWG 600V EVE FT-1"
Charging cables: LEONI Business Unit Electrical Appliance Cables
PDF catalog: http://www.leoni-cable.com/fileadmin/leoni.com/downloads/pdf/produkte/en_elektroladekabel.pdf
Last edited:
Yeah, the inspector for my job showed up 3 days late and almost fined my electrician $500 for not wearing his license/badge. Fortunately, my electrician had other things to do onsite so he was here. Do these guys think that we have nothing else to do but sit around waiting for them to show up? Whattafrigginprick.
I see what they've done, and it appears my hunches were correct.
The RMS current (apparent power) was a bit too high for 100 amp fuses, and was burning through when charging for prolonged times, and the fuses are now rotated so the heat doesn't collect in the metal cap at the top of the fuse, likely where it's burning through. The new horizontal orientation of the fuse allows heat to dissipate evenly upwards across the entire fuse, instead of building up as it travels up the fuse body.
My hunch is that for existing units, they will likely work just fine when replaced with 200A class T fuses in the vertical orientation.
- - - Updated - - -
For what it's worth, in most jurisdictions you will not need a permit and the AHJ won't require an inspection, because you're replacing the load appliance and it's like-for-like. Electrical permits are primarily for infrastructure purposes. Local rules prevail, though, and there may be local rules requiring you to. My guess, though, is that you won't have to.
My (older) HPWC box has 1008488-99-B (rev. B). So rev C is the fixed version.
The 1011831- part number is the HPWC unit itself, while the 1008488- is the whole package.
Hmmm, from what I've seen it appears that TMC did not roll the part number when they changed the fuses. While they are under no obligation to do so, I think it would help identifying older units. Opening up the unit isn't that big of a deal but every unit is suspect until that is done. I wonder how they are keeping this all straight internally .
FWIW, the -C on the package is probably for the version that adds the hanger and drops the "available in February" letter.
FWIW, the -C on the package is probably for the version that adds the hanger and drops the "available in February" letter.
araxara
X-LR M3AWD, MYLR
Last week I replaced all fuses in my two HPWCs with 150A fuses. A 100A fuse was blown in each unit. The 150A fuses were a really tight fit and made it almost impossible to close the front of the unit. The spacing between the holes is just fine, but the middle barrel is much wider and the back fuse hits the interior side of the plastic HPWC housing causing it to bulge slightly. On one of the HPWCs I trimmed the plastic fins in the housing for more room as an experiment and the fuses fit better.
I suspect that the tight fit is why the new 200A fuses are turned on their side, considering that they are even fatter than the 150A fuses.
The unit still gets considerably hot. More than 220°F coming from the contractor and about 180°F from the fuses, but it hasn't blown the 150A fuses yet. The 200A fuses should run a bit cooler.
I don't see why they didn't just replace the fuses with copper buss bars since the unit is connected to a circuit breaker.
Similar threads
