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Model S Technical / Mechanical Issues

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It's a bit disconcerting that I only found out it was bad when I was in a situation where I needed it.

Sod's Law. Good it was easily solved though. On the whole I find very few downsides to owning an EV versus an ICE with one exception: there are many problems that can occur with an ICE where it's still possible to "limp" home or to a mechanic but when there's an issue with an EV it tends to be game over, sit and wait for a flatbed. That said, the joy of driving a Tesla means I don't dwell on those worries.
 
Maybe not the proper thread, but upon test drive the other day, the Tesla rep's door needed to be closed "more firmly" than normal to get rid of the open door warning. IIRC, I could not place vehicle in Drive with the door considered open. Is this correct, and if so, is there a way to bypass the issue? It would be embarrassing to be stuck somewhere because of a false warning.
 
It was the UMC, and thankfully the service center had a new one ready for me. It's a bit disconcerting that I only found out it was bad when I was in a situation where I needed it. Thankfully I was 10 minutes away from a service center when it happened!
Thanks for the heads up and the follow-up troubleshooting result. It's comforting to hear it's a cable issue not a vehicle issue.
 
Maybe not the proper thread, but upon test drive the other day, the Tesla rep's door needed to be closed "more firmly" than normal to get rid of the open door warning. IIRC, I could not place vehicle in Drive with the door considered open. Is this correct, and if so, is there a way to bypass the issue? It would be embarrassing to be stuck somewhere because of a false warning.

I actually have this issue as well on my front passenger door. It only actually closes on the first try about 50% of the time and takes quite a bit of effort. I mentioned it at the service center, hoping they could adjust the door, but they just told me it was normal and that the doors take some effort.
 
I actually have this issue as well on my front passenger door. It only actually closes on the first try about 50% of the time and takes quite a bit of effort. I mentioned it at the service center, hoping they could adjust the door, but they just told me it was normal and that the doors take some effort.
I've found passengers are somewhat hesitant with the brand new car, but even so the passenger side front door shows open more often than would be random. I don't recall having to tell any rear seat passengers to close the door. And I've carried a goodly number of them in just a couple days.
 
Happy to help. Moral of the story: check your cables upon delivery!

When I went to the factory with my friend for his delivery, one stage in the delivery was plugging in the UMC and showing how charging worked. So, I would expect that to catch most UMC issues. We did only try it with 220, so I suppose it would be possible to have an issue specific to 110 or one of the adapters.
 
I actually have this issue as well on my front passenger door. It only actually closes on the first try about 50% of the time and takes quite a bit of effort. I mentioned it at the service center, hoping they could adjust the door, but they just told me it was normal and that the doors take some effort.
That'll need to be addressed. Every car has an open door sensor these days so there isn't a lot of excuse for Tesla's sensor not being in line with the relative sensitivity of other cars.
 
That'll need to be addressed. Every car has an open door sensor these days so there isn't a lot of excuse for Tesla's sensor not being in line with the relative sensitivity of other cars.

I think it's not so much of a sensor issue as a mechanical alignment. The door does not physically shut; it shuts to the point of being cracked open unless a lot of effort is used or if you shut it at a very specific angle (applying upward force from the bottom).
 
When I went to the factory with my friend for his delivery, one stage in the delivery was plugging in the UMC and showing how charging worked. So, I would expect that to catch most UMC issues. We did only try it with 220, so I suppose it would be possible to have an issue specific to 110 or one of the adapters.

Same with us, the showed us how it worked but only with the 14-50. In my case, it was the 110 adaptor that was faulty.
 
I think it's not so much of a sensor issue as a mechanical alignment. The door does not physically shut; it shuts to the point of being cracked open unless a lot of effort is used or if you shut it at a very specific angle (applying upward force from the bottom).

I think this is common with cars without a door frame around the window. My dad's TT had it, my mom's C70 had it. The windows have to be angled in towards the seal, so they seal well. Angle it in too much the door doesn't close. Angle it in not enough and you have the seal break at high speed. Both of those cars you could adjust the window angle to get into the sweet spot.

And well the C70 was always a snug close.

EDIT: A lot of cars without window frames also will lower the glass slightly when the door is open so it is easier to open and close the door. My dad's TT does this, or rather did. It only works some of the time now.
 
Mine (S#187) has the same issue. It's only the front passenger door, not any of the others. And my windows do roll down an inch or so when the door is open.

I wonder if we're seeing a tooling tolerance stack issue?


I think this is common with cars without a door frame around the window. My dad's TT had it, my mom's C70 had it. The windows have to be angled in towards the seal, so they seal well. Angle it in too much the door doesn't close. Angle it in not enough and you have the seal break at high speed. Both of those cars you could adjust the window angle to get into the sweet spot.

And well the C70 was always a snug close.

EDIT: A lot of cars without window frames also will lower the glass slightly when the door is open so it is easier to open and close the door. My dad's TT does this, or rather did. It only works some of the time now.
 
Mine (S#187) has the same issue. It's only the front passenger door, not any of the others. And my windows do roll down an inch or so when the door is open.

I wonder if we're seeing a tooling tolerance stack issue?

In English please?!
Suspicion that the passenger side front door has issues that the driver side door and back doors do not. The tools used to make that particular door or its attachment to the car aren't set quite right.
 
This all brings me back to whether or not one can override the open door warning and still drive the car. ?
Oh, no. The door just requires a little more force to actually close it, if anything. I was in and out of the passenger side door about 6 times last night and every time I closed it successfully without a hitch.

Because it is so easy to open, I think people just barely use any force on closing it.

I dunno about driving the car with doors open. Haven't tried it.
 
Oh, no. The door just requires a little more force to actually close it, if anything. I was in and out of the passenger side door about 6 times last night and every time I closed it successfully without a hitch.

Because it is so easy to open, I think people just barely use any force on closing it.

I dunno about driving the car with doors open. Haven't tried it.

Ya, I mean in terms of the sensor being faulty. There should be some kind of override to get you home or to a service facility. This is my love/hate relationship with tech. Sometimes it's so smart it's just dumb.